Gingham 50s Trousers
Having received this gorgeous blue gingham fabric, I decided to make vintage 50s style trousers. They are cropped length, have pockets and zip up at the back. The pattern is Butterick B5895.
I have made them before but in a stretch denim. I found the sizing very true to the measurements on the pattern but I sized up for the gingham as there is no stretch.
I pre-washed and ironed the fabric then folded it ensuring the selvages were straight. With this design it is also worth checking the pattern is straight before cutting out. I did this by checking that the checks were straight along the foldline.
All seam allowances are 1.5cm.
Depending upon the width of your fabric you can sometimes lay the pieces in a more efficient way than that shown and use less fabric than stated on the pattern. Just make sure the grain lines are always straight and if the fabric has nap or a directional print they must all face the same way.
First step is to make the pockets by stitching the inner pocket, piece 5 seen above, to the front leg.
Trim the seams and turn it over. Repeat for the other leg. Then after pressing, topstich on the right side so it lays flat.
Take the other pocket piece and attach to the side front (piece shown above) along the long curve to form a pocket. The edges need to be neatened to stop fraying, either using zigzag stitch or an overlocker.
Baste the upper and side edges by hand or machine to hold the pocket in place temporarily. You should now have two complete trouser fronts with pockets.
Next stitch the darts in the trouser backs and press towards the centre.
Stitch front and back leg together along inner leg seams.
Then press and neaten. Next stitch the crotch seam leaving the seam above the circles open for the zip. A second line of sewing is worth doing here to make the seam stronger. Again press and neaten.
Insert the zip, an invisible one works well, just neaten the material edges before inserting. The top should be 1.5cm below the trouser top to allow room for the waistband to be attached. I placed this too high first time and had to redo the whole zip!
To check the fit, baste the side seams and try on the trousers. They can be adjusted at this stage by increasing or decreasing the seam allowance.
Stitch front and back at side seams. Press, trim and neaten.
Last stage is the waistband. It requires interfacing to give some structure.
Attach the unnotched waistband edge to the right side of the trousers, press seam toward the waistband. It isn’t necessary to neaten this seam as it will be enclosed. Stitch the ends with right sides together then turn the waistband over to the inside, and turn the edge under. Press then hand sew along the length.
Finish the closure above the zip with a hook and eye, then sew the hems either by hand or machine depending on your preference.
Here are the finished trousers:
Made by Tracy Blake for the Craft Cotton Company 2017