Simplicity 8430 Shaped Hem Tunic and Leggings
Project by Bernadette Wainwright
Skill level: Intermediate
Fabric: Scattered Flowers Navy (exclusive to Hobbycraft)
You will need:
Fabric as per the pattern. I used a beautiful floral patterned jersey, Scattered Flowers, for the tunic and plain navy jersey for the leggings both from Craft Cotton Company.
Ball Point or Stretch Needle
Walking Foot (optional)
Overlocker if you have one.
Sewing Machine and Basic Sewing Kit
One of the delights about making your own clothes and clothes for others is that you can make them to fit exactly. My niece is almost 10 years old but slight for her age, so I made this outfit to fit a 7 year old in the body and 10 years in height. They are simple alterations to make and give the perfect fit. My niece actually said, these are the best leggings she has ever worn, praise indeed for the fabric, pattern oh and me! The fabric, Scattered Flowers, was a delight to work with, it fed easily through both the sewing machine and the overlocker. The pattern had clear instructions and it all came together very easily.
A full list of alterative fabrics and other materials/notions is printed on the back of the pattern.
Before cutting check the crosswise stretch of your fabric using the handy guide, again on the back of the pattern to make sure your fabric is suitable for this project.
All seams are 5/8” or 1.5cms unless otherwise stated.
Before starting the project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through all the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. I always like to wash and iron my dressmaking fabric to minimise any shrinkage and ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make.
Using a ball point needle or stretch needle sew the seams with either a straight stitch, stretching the fabric slightly as you sew or a narrow zig zag stitch. You may also have a stretch stitch (lightening stitch) built into your machine, or if you have one an overlocker/serger.
1. Following the cutting guide, cut out the leggings, making any alterations to the pattern before you cut, remember I increased the leg length to size 10.
2. When using plain fabric, I mark the right and wrong sides also the front and back with heat erasable pens.
3. Follow points 1-4.
4. When forming the upper casing I like to press under 1½” then open out and press under ¼”, fold back down and stitch in place using a stretch stitch leaving a 3” gap at the back to insert the elastic. I prefer to use a bodkin to insert the elastic, but a safety pin will do if you don’t have a bodkin.
5. Follow steps 6-8 to finish the leggings off.
D Shaped Tunic
1. Cut out the tunic following the cutting layout, again I cut size 7 and lengthened to size 10.
2. When sewing point 1, I didn’t have any hem tape to hand, so I used some ¼” wide ribbon.
3. After making and attaching the neckband I overlocked the seam before topstitching as in point 5 on the instructions, using the lightening stitch again.
4. Complete point 6.
5. I’m doing option D for the top, so the short-sleeved version, complete the sleeve insertion as per the instructions 7-8, pressing and neatening the sleeve seam open. Trim the ends of the seam to reduce bulk when hemming.
6. Insert the armhole and overlock or neaten, press this seam towards the sleeve.
7. Complete the skirt as per the instructions.
8. When doing the shaped hem, I did a row of easing stitches at the side seams to pull up the extra fabric.
9. Attach the skirt to the bodice as in point 12.
Congratulations, your tunic and leggings are now complete, I hope your little one enjoys wearing them as much as my niece does.
Made by Bernadette Wainwright for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.