Search Results

Project by Michelle Roberts at CreativeBlonde Create a gorgeous dynamic quilt with these lovely dinosaur fat quarters. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size 42 ½” x 58” (seam allowance 1/4” and has been added to measurements) Materials 2 FQ packs of ‘Small Dinosaur’ prints 1 metre Chambray Plain Dyed Cotton (2182) 46” x 62” Heritage Premium Mid-Weight Wadding (3522) 46” x 62” Clouds – Cotton Spandex Jersey (2595) backing fabric Aurifil threads 1125 blue for piecing, 6726 grey for quilting Haberdashery items Quilter’s ruler, rotary cutter/scissors Iron Cutting mat Basic sewing supplies Fabric pen Odif 505 temporary adhesive spray METHOD Let's get cutting… This quilt is made up of 17 blocks, 10 ½” x 10 ½” and 14 large triangles. Cut seventeen 5 ½” squares from the white dinosaur prints Cut Fifty-one 3” squares from the teal dinosaur prints Cut seventeen 3” squares from the navy dinosaur prints Cut seventeen 5 ½” x 3” rectangles from the navy dinosaur prints Cut thirty-four 3” squares from the Chambray Plain Dyed Cotton Cut thirty-four 5 ½” x 3” rectangles from the Chambray Plain Dyed Cotton Cut seven 11” squares from the Chambray Plain Dyed Cotton, cut in half across the diagonal Making the block… Begin by joining the following pieces, join the small squares first, press seams open, then join to rectangle, press seams open. Join these squares with the white dinosaur print, as show below. Press seams in opposite directions, so you can nest the seams together when completing the 10½” block. Make a further 16 blocks. With all block arranged in the same direction, join in rows of 2, 4, 5, 4, 2. Begin constructing the top quilt, by sewing two large triangles together, to form a larger triangle. Sew a triangle to either end of the row containing two blocks (see photo below for placement of triangles) Join these two rows together. Add a triangle to either end of each row, and join to previous row to complete the top quilt. With the top quilt complete, baste to the batting and backing piece, using 505 basting glue or pins. Quilt using your preferred method/design. Trim away excess batting and backing fabric, and bind. Cut 1 ½” strips from the FQ of navy dinosaur fabric, join to create one long length, and join to front edge of quilt. Press over ¼” and hand sew to the reverse. Your Dinosaur quilt is complete. Don’t have time to sew, please contact me via my website www.creativeblonde.co.uk to place an order. Other newborn items in this collection are also available to purchase from my website. To see more of my tutorials or to place an order, you can head over my website www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric and Batting www.visagetextiles.com https://www.facebook.com/craftcottonco Stockist for Aurifil Threads www.aurifil.com/ www.facebook.com/aurifil.quilt.thread Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Sarah Holliman at SarahJaneStitchery A very cute stitching make for a furry friend. You will need: Fat Quarter pack or selection of small fabric pieces Iron on interfacing Elastic Rotary cutter and Ruler Pins/Thread/Needle DOG BANDANA - METHOD 1. Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut one square measuring 11.5 x 11.5 inches from your chosen fabric. 2. Press your fabric flat with an iron. 3. Fold your fabric piece into a triangle shape with the right sides facing together 4. Using the rotary cutter, cut 2 inches from both of the top two corners. This will become the collar seam. 5. Using a ¼ inch seam allowance, press and hem the two straight edges of the collar seam. 6. Stitch down the two triangular sides of the bandana. 7. Turn the bandana out the right way through the collar seam. Press with an iron. 8. Top stitch down the two triangular sides of the bandana. 9. Top stitch a line across the bottom of the collar seam. If the collar seam looks a little big you can add another line of stitching above. 10. Press with an iron and thread the dog collar through the seam. Your bandana is now ready for its new owner ! DOG BOW TIE - METHOD 1. Using a rotary cutter and ruler cut one piece of fabric measuring 18 x 20 cm 2. Attach your piece of iron on interfacing to your fabric piece. 3. With right sides facing together, sew along the long edge of the fabric to make a seam. 4. Turn the tube out the right way. Position the seam in the middle of the tube and press with an iron. 5. Fold each side end into the middle, slightly overlapping and sew down the centre of the folds to secure. 6. Press with an iron. 7. Take a small piece of fabric, approx. 2 x 3 inches and fold into a bias binding for the middle of the bow tie. Sew the raw ends together to form a ring. 8. Fold the bow tie into a concertina shape and slip the ring onto the middle of the bow tie, hiding the centre seam. 9. Add two pieces of elastic to the back of the bow tie to allow for the dog collar to be slipped through this space. If desired you could also add two narrow strips of fabric to hide the elastic. Your dog bow tie is complete! To see more from Sarah, visit her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Sarah Holliman at SJStitchery A beautiful quilt project using a Turned Four Patch Pattern. These vibrant orange fabrics are perfect for summer. Quilt size 36x48 inches You will need: Fat quarter Selection Pack 2m fabric in contrast colour 1m fabric for quilt backing Quilt batting of your choice (I used Bosal Acadia Autumn 80/20) Rotary cutter and Ruler Quilting Safety Pins/Thread/Needle METHOD 1. Choose a selection of fabrics you would like to use for your blocks. 2. You will be starting with 2 different squares of fabric, so choose a combination you would like to use. I have chosen to use the plain orange as a contrast and four other fat quarters which I will rotate in the pattern design. 3. Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut 4 squares, 2 contrast fabric and 2 different patterns, of 5.5 inches (these will become 5 inch squares when sewn together). 4. Choose a pair of squares and with right sides together, stitch along one edge with 0.25 seam allowance. Press seam flat with an iron. 5. Repeat with the other 2 squares. 6. Sew all four squares together placing the contrast fabric at diagonals to each other, as shown. 7. Make sure all the corner points of your patch meet in the centre. 8. Press seams flat with an iron. You now have a four patch. 9. For the Turned Four Patch pattern, you will now need to cut into your four patch block. 10. Using the rotary cutter and ruler, cut 1.25 inches away from each seam of the four patch, as shown - you should now have a total of 9 pieces. 11. Rotate all the pieces to create the pattern. This will become your turned four patch pattern throughout the quilt, alternating the patterned fabric on your next Four Patch. 12. When you are happy with your design, sew all of the 9 pieces together again, using 0.25 seam allowance throughout. 13. Press seams flat with an iron. 14. Repeat this process for all 12 blocks of your quilt. 15. To outline the block I have used a plain white contrast fabric. Cut 4 1.25 inch wide strips of fabric. With right sides together sew along the edges of the block - try to ensure all of the vertical and horizontal strips are placed in exactly the same way on each side of the patch, as shown below. 16. Press seams flat. 17. Repeat for all 12 blocks. 18. When you have completed this process lay out all of your blocks on a flat surface. Decide your pattern layout for your quilt. It is a good idea to take a photo at this stage - this means you can see your quilt at a different angle but also you have a reference photograph to refer to when you are constructing your quilt. 19. Using 0.25 seam allowance, sew all your quilt blocks together to complete your quilt top. 20. Your quilt is ready for basting. Decide on your quilt batting. I used a Bosal Acadia Autumn 80/20. 21. Smooth your quilt top over the batting, taking time to ensure the layers are completely flat and baste or pin into place. 22. Complete the same process with the quilt backing. You should now have your 3 layers of quilt. 23. Quilt in place as you like. 24. When you have completed quilting your quilt, trim the edges of the quilt and remove an excess batting or backing fabric. 25. Decide on the edging you want for your quilt. 26. Cut length long strips of 2.25 inch wide fabric. Sew strips together and press with an iron and fold to make a bias binding. 27. Sew one fold of the bias binding to the front edges of the quilt, mitring the corners as you go. 28. Fold the bias binding over the edge of the quilt and slip stitch into place. 29. Remove any excess threads and tie any loose ends that are remaining. 30. Your quilt is now complete. To see more from Sarah, visit her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Daisy Lawn Create a fabric basket to keep household items tidy and organised. You will need:- Fabric Interfacing to fit Sewing Machine Sewing Tools These can be made in many different sizes either rectangular or square. Sizes to choose are - RECTANGULAR in inches or SQUARE in inches Method Cut out to size: main outer fabric x 2 lining fabric x 2 interfacing x 2 Iron interfacing to both main fabrics. Cut bottom corners to size. Stitch up both sides and bottom of mains and then linings but leave a side hole in the liner for turning. Fold over corners and stitch on both main and liner. Turn outer Right Side Out Leave Liner Wrong Side Out Sit Outer into the Liner Stitch around the whole of the Top Pull the Main Outer through the hole in the liner. Push the liner down into the main, Fold the top edge over.....Finished. By Daisy Lawn for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Helen Bowes I wanted to make something a little different for my daughter. I prefer making to buying and with the year this way has been, it feels even more important. Hopefully, you will be able to make this for the little lady in your life. Step 1: Gather equipment For this project you will need: · Fabric for patchwork – 30 x 3-inch squares · Fabric for lining - 13x15 inches · Fabric for strap – 6 x 15 inches · Fabric for binding – 30 x 3 inches · Fusible interfacing for strap – 2 ¾ x 14 inches · 2 x Flannel/wadding/padding for strap – 2 x 14 inches · Fusible fleece for body of bag – 13 x 15 ½ inches · Sewing machine and thread · Iron and ironing board · Measuring device – tape measure / ruler · Marker – fabric pen / tailer’s chalk · Scissors / rotary cutter · Pins / clips Step 2: Cut out fabric pieces For this bag I used a series of fat quarters based on sea horses. I wanted the pattern on the front to match that on the back of the bag so if you looked at it from all angles it would appear the same. With 5 different patterns on the fat quarters this worked out at 6 rows (3 for each side) made up of 5 x 3inch squares. Lay each piece out to form your pattern over 3 rows. Repeat so you have two sides mapped out. Your sides can be identical, or you can do your pattern as a continuing line. Step 3: Sew your pieces Using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, sew your patchwork squares together. Start with two pieces right sides facing. Sew down one edge, then open it up so right sides are facing you. Place the next piece right side facing away from you onto the square you’ve just sewn. Sew this together. Repeat the process so you have 6 strips, 5 squares in length. Once you have this place two of the rows right sides facing each other and sew along the long length. Repeat until you have two panels of 5 x 3 patchworks, effectively making a mini patchwork. Once complete, sew the two panels together. Step 4: Quilt Press all your seams so they are lying flat. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse your fusible fleece onto the wrong side of your panel. Now you can quilt your piece by dewing ¼ inch on either side of your seams. Step 5: Box corners Once quilted, you can fold the piece, so the right sides are facing each other to make the structure of the bag. Sew the side seams using a 3/8inch seam allowance and then press open. Fold the structure of the bag so that you form two points. Measure in 1 ¼ inches and mark. Sew across this line and trim off the excess. This will make the box corners and allow the purse to have a flat bottom. Step 6: Add pleats One little feature of this bag is the pleat it has. Turn the bag the right way round and fold the bag into half so you can find the central point of each side. Place a pin to mark this spot on each side. Now fold the adjoining squares so that the seam is next to your pin. Repeat until you have folded all 4 squares in and then baste in position. Step 7: Lining Sew your lining piece as you did your outer layer. There is no need to patchwork this, it can be done as one solid piece. Measure out your lining piece as either two pieces 13”x15” or one whole piece as 26”x15”. If using one large piece, fold this is half and sew your side seams. If using two separate pieces you will need to sew two side seams and one bottom seam. Box your corners as you have done for the outside of the bag. Place your lining inside your bag. If using patterned fabric for the lining, then make sure that the wrong side of the lining is facing the wrong side of the outer bag so you can see the patter facing you. Using the pleats on the outside of the bag as your guide, create two pleats in the lining. Once happy with the positioning of the lining pleats, baste the lining onto the outer fabric including the pleats. Step 8: Make the handle For the handle, cut out your fabric and then fold in half lengthways so the right sides are facing and press. Place your padding onto the wrong side of your fabric and pin into place. Sew along one long edge, across the top short edge and back down the long edge. Don’t sew quite to the very end of the piece. Now turn your piece the right way round. Fold the raw edges in and sew over the top. For detail, sew down the length of your handle about 3/8th inch in from each side. Once the handle has been completed place it into your bag, so it overlaps the side seams of the bag. Your handle should rest so it is lying inside the bag. Once happy with the position, pin it and then baste into place. Step 9: Add trim Cut out your piece of fabric for the trim. It should be slightly longer than the circumference of the bag. To create neat ends, fold the raw edge of fabric in on itself and secure in place with a line of stitches. Trim off any excess fabric. Now fold your fabric in half lengthways with the right sides facing each other. Following manufacturers guidance, use your iron to bind the interfacing to one side of your fabric trim. Once it has been bonded stitch down the length of the edge piece and iron the seam open. Turn the tube the right way round so the pattern is on the outside. Place one long side of the tube to the top outside edge of the bag. Pin into place as you go round the circumference of the bag. With this edge in place, fold the binding over the top of the bag and do the same with the other long edge of the trim. When finished you should have pinned in place a trim that covers the top of the bag and goes over the handle ends. There will be overlap on the trim so tuck one part inside the other. Once happy with positioning, sew into place. To make it so the handle comes out of the bag rather than lying on the bags base, fold it up so it projects out of the bag. Now sew along the top part of the trim where it meets with the handle. You will be going through a lot of fabric at this stage so you will want a stronger needle. Back sure you backstitch at both ends to secure it well. Step 10: A popper or button The bag is now complete. If you want to you can add a closing mechanism. I choose to add a popper which I hand stitched on at the point of the pleats. This means my little lady can close the bag and keep everything safe within it. Made by Helen Bowes for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need: 1 pack 5 fat quarters ¾ inch wide elastic Thread Note: 3/8 inch seam allowance used throughout, unless stated. Instructions Cut the following in the fabric: 2 backs from 2 fat quarters (see diagram below) 2 fronts from 2 fat quarters (see diagram below) 1 waistband 3 ½ x (finished size of waistband on shorts, cut this out once you have made shorts up to waistband as this will depend on size you decide to make) 1 placket 5 ½ x 6 ¾ inches from 1 fat quarter 1 placket 4 x 6 ¾ inches from 1 fat quarter 1. With right sides together join the back pieces together along the crotch. Put to one side. 2. Take the smaller placket piece fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Zigzag (or overlock) the raw long edge and one of the shorter edges. 3. Attach to the crotch edge of one of the front pieces, neatened edge aligned with the raw edge. Press towards the placket. 4. Now take the other placket piece and front leg piece and folding half lengthwise, and neaten exactly the same as with the smaller piece. Attach to the other front boxer short piece as before. Press towards the placket. 5. Take the folded edge of the placket and fold back on itself, line it up with the seam you have just sewn. Then fold it to the wrong side of the boxer shorts. Press in place. 6. Place the first front piece right side upwards then place the second rights upwards overlapping placket pieces, tack in place at the top edge. 7. With right sides facing stitch the rest of the front crotch, then the bottom of the plackets. 8. Sew the inside and outside leg seams together. 9. Measure the waistband and cut a strip that length plus seam allowance (you may have to join 2 pieces together) by 3 ½ inches. 10. Stitch the waistband to the top of the shorts waist. 11. Press waistband and seam allowance up, away from shorts. On unsewn edge press under half an inch, fold the waistband in half, lengthways, matching folded edge with sewn edge. Handsew in place. Leave a couple of inches unsewn. 12. Take the elastic cur to the length of the wearers waist. Thread through the waistband. Machine ends together. Sew last few inches of waistband close. 13. Neaten bottom edge of shorts, turn up to the desired length, on the wrong side, and stitch in place. I took these up by a couple of inches as that is what the wearer preferred. 14. Give them a good press. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Marie Pickles Create a lovely drawstring cosmetics bag with this simple tutorial. What you need: Gorgeous fabric – fat quarter set from Craft Cotton Company (Press all fabric well and choose your 2 Fat Quarters) Cotton batting the same size as your FQ (18” x 22”) Bias binding (bought or home-made) Ribbon or cord Fabric marker of your choice Large plate or circle template (Optional) eyelet set & small hammer Fabric sandwich Fold fabric in half and in half again (9”x11), draw round your plate or template to made your circle; I went as large as possible giving approximately 17.5” diameter. Repeat for batting and second FQ. Cut 3 circles Pin and sew with 1/4"seam Layer your sandwich; right side down on the batting and the second circle right side down on the other side of batting. Use some pins or clips and sew around using a ¼” seam leaving a small gap to turn through. 3 layers pinned ready to sew. Trimmed & notched Trim close to your stitching before you turn through leaving sufficient fabric sandwich at the opening to be able to catch to close. Make a few “V” notches to ensure it lies flat. When its right side out, finger press the open gap and press lightly. Sew round the edge making sure the opening is caught in this stitching. I allowed slightly over the ¼” for the top stitching. Press well on both sides, finally choose which is the ‘out’ side and place this down with the “in” side facing you. Using your bias binding carefully pin this round the edge approximately ½” – ¾” from the edge. This spacing defines how the bag will sit when pulled closed. The bias binding has to be able to contain the width of your ribbon/cord. Line marked for bias tape. Bias tape on with gap for cords Fold the bias over to leave a clean edge that won’t fray at the start (and the end) of the tape. Press before you start stitching into place. The bias binding will need to be manipulated in place and will need a wee bit of fixing and fiddling to take account of the reducing size of the circle. To make this easier, first sew the outside edge of the bias then you have a stable platform to finish stitching the channel into place. Make tiny pleats to accommodate the reducing circle and keep the tape taut. Leave a ½”-1” gap between the two short bias edges as this is where your pull cords will be. Gap for cording Feed cords through to pull closed Using a bodkin, safety pin or something similar thread the cord/ribbon through, measure the cord to fit the circumference of the bag and there will be a good length to tie off and close the bag. Cords can be brought through to the outside of the bag if desired. To keep the fabric from tearing as the bag is pulled open and closed, the holes where cords come through must be reinforced in some way. There may be an eyelet stitch or a small buttonhole stitch on your machine which will enable a cord to be pulled without damaging the fabric as it reinforces the aperture with close tight stitches. Eyelet kits can be bought from most haberdashery shops and come in a variety of different finishes. Alternatively, you may wish to use an eyelet kit (same as I used in my bag). The tool punches a hole and removes the fabric then two rings of metal or plastic are hammered together leaving the fabric reinforced and safe when pulling the cords. Your bright zingy wake up make up bag is now finished, well done! Made by Marie Pickles for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Rebecca Cole I absolutely adore elephants, and mandalas and their origins fascinate me so these beautiful black and white fabrics absolutely bowled me over! I simply adore them! And though they are stunningly striking in black and white, I felt compelled to throw (literally in this case!) some colour at them. These two complimentary cushion covers came to mind almost instantly and I just had to create them! I hope you love them as much as I do! Time to make: 2-3 hrs per cushion (not including drying time) Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate You Will Need: · Elephant Mandala Cotton FQ pack · 2 x 14”/35cm round cushion pads · Rainbow coloured pom-pom trim (approx. 3m) · Vlieseline Bondaweb · Sewing machine (optional sewing machine accessories/stitches that can help: decorative stitch foot, buttonhole foot, overcasting foot, button fitting foot, decorative satin stitch, overcasting stitch, 1 step button hole) · Black sewing thread · Rainbow coloured sewing thread · 8 x 2.5cm/1” buttons in rainbow colours (4 per cushion) · Fabric dyes in rainbow colours · Straight pins · Tape measure · Paper, pencil, and ruler · Fabric scissors · Paper scissors · White fabric marker · Stitch ripper or embroidery scissors · Iron Cushion One - Method: 1. Cut a 37cm square from paper. Fold in half and then fold again into quarters. Continue to fold a further 2 times from the same centre point. Measure 37cm from the point to create a curved line. Cut along this line and open out to form a circle. Use this template to cut a circle from your fabric. 2. Mix up your fabric dyes according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Lay your fabric circle over a towel and, using droppers or syringes, drip each dye onto the fabric until you are happy with the finished effect. Leave this to dry. 3. Pin the pom-pom trim around the outside of the fabric circle and stitch in place, making sure the pom-poms are sitting inside the circle. (Cushion Back) 4. Take your paper template and draw a pencil line along the centre fold. Measure 4.5cm down from this line and fold the circle at this line. Do not cut the pattern! 5. Cut out two pieces using your adjusted pattern template. 6. Stitch an overcasting stitch along the straight edge of both pieces, turn them up 3cm, and press. 7. To mark the button holes, draw lines along the middle of the turned up hem, 1.5cm. From left to right, use your white fabric marker to mark points at 4.5cm, 7cm (join together to mark buttonhole 1), 13cm, 15.5cm (join together to mark buttonhole 2), 21cm, 23.5cm (join together to mark buttonhole 3), 29.5cm, 32cm (join together to mark buttonhole 4). Use your machine’s button hole foot and settings to stitch the 4 button holes in place. 8. Cut open the button holes with a stitch ripper or pair of embroidery scissors and pin the two halves of the cushion back together, overlapping the 3cm hems. Use your white fabric marker to mark the position of the buttons by drawing through the buttonholes you just made. 9. Stitch the buttons in place either by hand or machine, depending on your preference. Fasten the buttons and buttonholes together to close the cushion back ready to be attached to the front. 10. Lay the front of your cushion cover face up on your work surface. Lay the cushion back on top face down, so that the right sides are facing each other. Pin and stitch all the way around the outside making sure not to catch any of the pom-poms in the seam as you go. Undo the buttons and turn the cushion cover through the right way. Give the outer seam a press and insert your cushion pad. Fasten the buttons to close. Cushion Two - Method 1. Open up the paper template again and refold along all of the original lines. From the point, measure and mark curved lines at 3cm, 7cm, 10cm, and 14cm. Cut along these lines. Open up the paper hoop templates and use them to cut of 5 different sized circles from 5 different fabrics. Cut around the outside edge of the hoops only, not the inside edges. 2. Use an iron to adhere the bondaweb to the 4 smallest sized circles. 3. Taking the 2nd smallest circle, remove the backing paper from the bondaweb and top stitch some of the pom-pom trim around the outside, this time with the pom-poms sitting outside the fabric. 4. Peel off the backing paper from the bondaweb on the rest of the fabric circles and adhere them on top of each other going from largest to smallest using the iron. Take care with the pom-poms! 5. Select a decorative satin stitch on your sewing machine (or straight if you only have that option) and applique around all of the circles using the rainbow coloured threads that tie in with your pom-pom trim, securing all of the circles in place. 6. Stitch the pom-pom trim around the outside of the largest circle as you did in step 3. 7. Make your cushion back as demonstrated in steps 4-9. Place the two halves of the cushion right sides together, as in step 10, and stitch together. Turn the cushion through, press, and insert the cushion pad. Re-fasten the buttons to finish your second cushion.

Project by Angela Harkness Give your table a classic make over with this stylish patchwork table runner. Supplies: William Morris fat quarter pack 8.5” x 8.5” square 10 2.5” x 2.5” sqaures backing fabric wadding temporary fabric spray adhesive Directions: Step 1: Cut out your fabrics as required - Morris fabric: 20 2.5” x 8.5” strips (4 strips of each of the fabric designs) 2.5” strips width of the fat quarters for binding - tonal fabrics: 10 2.5” x 2.5” squares 8.5” x 8.5” square Step 2: -Sew a small square onto the end of one fabric strip, press to the strip -Sew the second fabric strip onto the centre square, press to the strip -Sew the strip/square piece onto the centre square Step 3: Continue sewing sets of strips and squares onto the foundation square piece, using half of the cut strips on one side of the runner. Step 4: Repeat the above on the opposite side of the centre square for the other side of the runner. Step 5: Trim the sides of the runner leaving 0.25” seam allowance at the points of the centre square. Step 6: Layer up the runner by spray basting the wadding then the backing fabric onto the back of the piece. Quilt the runner as desired...as simple or as complex as you wish. I used a decorative stitch on my machine. Step 7: Make the binding and attach to the runner. Here I used a single colour binding, alternatively the 2.5” strip pieces joined together to create a scrappy binding looks effective. Complete: To see more from Angela, visit her on Instagram @angerellas_crafts Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Daisy Lawn Create a super cute tissues box cover to jazz up your bedside table! Skills incorporate the use of a sewing machine. You will need: Box of Tissues Fabric for box and scraps for Ears, Corner of Pillow, Bed Cover Small amount of Fleece for Pillow Small amount of Lace to edge Pillow and Bed Cover A pattern for the head of your choice.....rabbit....teddy....dog.....cat etc....this is made ready. Sewing Tools These can be made in an assortment of sizes and shapes. Method Measure your Tissue Box dimensions and transfer to paper. Use template to cut your tissue box fabric. Sew up all four corners. Like so.. All corners sewn. Make a tiny pillow from fleece add a corner in fabric. Stitch together and add lace to one side. Cut a slit in the top of the fabric box cover, fold edges use bondaweb to hold down neatly. Make a tiny blanket add lace.....all things are ready now ...I made two little paws too... Embroider Bunnys face....Bondaweb blanket, paws and Pillow to box....Sew head to pillow...pull up a tissue between bunnys paws. Made by Daisy Lawn for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Angela Harkness These three projects all work together beautifully to create a bright, modern and stylish table set, perfect for breakfast or for use in the garden in summer. The projects have all been made out of two sets of Craft Cotton Company navy and white medley pattern fat quarters, with some additional fabric for backing the table topper, some wadding, bias binding and a set of Bosal Craft-tex placemats. It’s amazing how versatile fat quarters are and how much you can make with them! Project One: Oval Placemat set using Craft-tex double sided fusible placemat pack Supplies: 8 Fat quarters of navy medley pattern fabric Craft-tex double sided fusible placemat set Bias binding Directions: Step 1: Gather together your supplies then press each of the fat quarters well to remove the folded creases. Step 2: Sandwich the placemat in between two fabric pieces, with the patterned side of the fabrics facing out. Step 3: Fuse the fabrics and placemat form together, leave to cool off then carefully trim back the excess fabric to reveal the oval shape. Step 4: Repeat this for the remaining three placemats. Step 5: Attach the bias binding to the front of each of the placemats, using the fold line of the bias as a stitch guide line. I used readymade bias binding in white to give a contrast to the fabric designs, the binding must be on the bias to enable a smooth curve finish to the placemats. Step 6: Hand stitch the binding to the back of each placemat, carefully taking it around the curves of the oval shape, whilst avoiding stretching or distorting the binding. Project Two: Baked goods fabric basket Supplies: 2 Fat quarters of navy medley pattern fabric Fat quarter of wadding Fat quarter of H250 stabiliser Heat erasable pen Temporary fabric spray adhesive 120” ribbon Quilting clips Step 1: Cut two 16” x 16” fabric squares, one 16” x 16” square out of stabiliser and one 18” x 18” square out of wadding. Step 2: Spray baste the wadding onto the back of one fabric square then trim to finished size. Fuse the stabiliser onto the back of the second fabric square. Step 3: Layer the two squares with right sides together, clip together, marking a turning gap of approximately 6” on one side. Step 4: Stitch around the edges using ¼“seam allowance, remembering to leave the turning gap along one side. Using a walking foot helps to keep the layers together. Step 5: Clip the corners to reduce bulkiness, turn through the turning gap and carefully poke out corners of the square then press well, paying attention to the turning gap to get the raw edge folded in well. Step 6: Top stitch around all edges using 1/8” seam, closing turning gap as you sew. Step 7: Using the topstitch line as a guide for your stitching; sew 4 parallel lines of stitching along each side, approximately 0.5” apart. Step 8: Cut four lengths of ribbon at 30”. Stitch each ribbon along the final stitch line, leaving a length of ribbon at each end for tying. Step 9: Pinch each corner together, hold with quilt clips then secure the ribbons with a bow. The ribbons can be untied so the basket can lie flat for storage. Project Three: Stripy table topper Supplies: 8 Fat quarters of navy medley pattern fabric Wadding 20” x 32” Backing fabric 16” x 28” Step 1: Cut 14 strips off the fat quarters 2.5” x 18” Step 2: Position one fabric strip centrally on top of the wadding, position second fabric strip directly on top of the first strip, right sides together, sew 0.25“ seam along the length of the strip. Step 3: Flip open the strip and press well. Step 4: Repeat this process with the remaining strips until the piece is 14 strips long. Step 5: Layer the backing fabric onto the stripped piece, with right sides together. Trim to a finished piece 14.5” x 27” Step 6: Clip the pieces together around all four sides, leaving a turning gap along one side. I double clip the turning gap position so I can see where to start and stop stitching. Step 7: Stitch all around the four sides of the table topper, remembering to start and stop at the marked points for the turning gap. Clip away the corners, being careful not to snip any stitches. Step 8: Carefully turn through the turning gap and gently poke out corners of the topper then press well, paying attention to the turning gap to get the raw edge folded in well. Step 9: Carefully top stitch around all edges using 1/8” seam, closing turning gap as you sew. To see more from Angela, visit her on Instagram @angerellas_crafts Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need 2 pieces of fabric, 10 ¼ by 8 ¾ inches 1 piece heavy weigh iron on interfacing 10 ¼ x 8 ¾ inches threads Instructions 1. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of one of the pieces of fabric. 2. With right sides together and raw edges aligned, sew together, using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2 inch gap on the bottom edge for turning. 3. Trim corners to reduce bulk and turn right sides out. 4. Give it a good press, pressing in the raw edges where you turned it through. 5. With the inside fabric facing you bring the bottom right hand corner up to the left hand side, as in picture below. 6. Press well. 7. Unfold, then take the top left hand corner and lay the left aide on the crease line you have just made (see below). Press along the fold line. 8. Refold the first crease over the top of this one. 9. Then fold back on itself to along what was the bottom edge with the first crease line. Give a good press. 10. Using a larger stitch on your machine, I used a 3.5, stitch along the two long edges, just far enough to catch in the two edges of the fabric. This will also close the turning gap. 11. Pull the tread ends through to the back and cut, or tie off and cut if you don’t have a reverse or stay stitch on your sewing machine. If you wish, you can add a hanging loop in the top right hand corner with a piece of ribbon, it would be best to add this when you sew the two pieces of fabric together. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2021