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Project by Katie Done I made these stockings years ago as a commission order for a customer. When they came back last year and asked for a matching one for their new addition to the family, it would have been rude to say no. I thought I would take the opportunity to write it up but didn't get around to it. Since tartan does not ever go out of fashion at Christmas, I thought I would just share it with you in plenty of time for Christmas 2020. These fun little stockings are personalised and have a little pocket for your letter to Santa. This project needs basic sewing skills but also allows you to practise some of your free motion stitching. I have taken pictures of the pair that I made but the instructions are given for one stocking. YOU WILL NEED Half metre of cream cotton or calico Fat quarter of tartan Bondaweb Sewing Machine Free motion foot Iron 20cm Ribbon METHOD Cut out your fabrics. For one stocking you will need: Two stocking shapes in cream. It is an easy shape to draft yourself. Mine was 50cm tall, around 35cm wide at the widest point and 25cm along the top edge. x2 Tartan 25cm x 25cm (this is for the top trim so adjust depending on the size of your stocking). Cream square 20cm x 20cm Tartan Toes - make these to fit the toes on your stocking. 2. Draw your hearts, festive shape, and letters onto Bondaweb. I have written the letters freehand to fit onto the stocking. You may need to adjust the size depending on the length of the name. Remember that when you use Bondaweb you need to draw on the paper side, back to front. It can be hard to write letters back to front so I tend to write it out in a thick marker that I can see when I turn it around and use as a template. Iron the rough side of the Bondaweb to the wrong side of the fabric. I have used the offcuts to make the most of the fabric. 3. Cut out your shapes. 4. Press and sew the pocket with a double hem along the top. Press the other three sides over by 1/4". Layer the shapes and iron into place on the toes and pocket. For the trim along the top, fold it in half and iron the letters onto the top half. 5. Using a water soluble pen, write on your "letter to Santa" or whatever personalised words, if any, that you want. 6. You will need your free motion foot to get this affect. If you don't have one, you could still use your regular straight stitch on your sewing machine and go slowly turning around the curves. You could also do it by hand. I have used a contrasting black thread and free motion stitched around the shapes, twice. As you can see, I haven't cut the holes out of the O and A, I have just used the stitching to help pick it out. I have done the same over the letter to Santa but only gone over it once. The pen will come off with a little water. 7. Fold the trim in half, wrong sides together. Place it right sides together on the stocking, sew into place. Turn it to the right side and press. 8. Pin on your pocket to the front and your toes on the front and back. 9. Top stitch around the three sides of the pocket. Use a zig zag stitch to applique the toes onto the stocking. You can just use a straight stitch to baste the outer edges in place. Make sure the front and back toe are positioned in the same place to the match up when they are sewn together. 10. Pin your front and back pieces together. 11. Sew around the edges, trim, and finish the edges with an overlocker or a zig zag stitch. 12. Use a nice piece of festive ribbon and sew it into the seams of the stocking on the heel side to finish. Your stocking (or stockings) are complete. Although this pattern would work with any fabric, I do love the timelessness of the tartan. I am sure these will be hung up and loved for years. I would love to hear from you if you are inspired by this blog. For more free tutorials, new fabric arrivals and offers, make sure you subscribe to the mailing list. To see more from Katie, visit her on Instagram @thefabricsquirrel Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Katie Done Peter Rabbit is timeless and I was so excited to hear that the Craft Cotton Company were bringing out another new Peter Rabbit range for 2020, I know it is going to go down a treat and I couldn't wait to get my hands on it. I made this dungaree pattern for my first little boy, around 4 years ago but I made it fully lined. I wanted to recreate it with only part lining so it is a little cooler in the summer. There are quite a few techniques to this project including buttons and buttonholes. It was the perfect project for me to really try out my new sewing machine. I recently treated myself to a Janome MC6700P and I love it! I use my sewing machine for several hours every day so I was well overdue an upgrade. This is the perfect machine for what I need it for. My other business is making keepsake quilts so the longer arm makes it much easier to manoeuvre them. Features like the automatic thread cutter and knee operated foot lifter (I didn't know that was a thing!), make sewing so much easier and fun. Paired up with my Janome 6234XL overlocker which was loaned to me from Janome, this was so much fun to make, that I made two. One for my new little man, and one for my friend’s little boy who was born 9 weeks later. They can now match for their facetime calls. Overlockers are not essential but once you have used one, you won't go back. It gives your makes a much more professional finish, they will be more durable which is what you want when you are sewing for kids. It also speeds up your sewing. They go at an incredible speed! If you are doing a lot of dress making or working with stretch fabric (although this project is in woven cotton), it is worth saving up for. I bought my sewing machine from www.sewingmachinesdirect.co.uk and they have kindly said to quote 123SQUIRREL and they will endeavour to offer a small discount or free gift if you order a new machine from. I have used 3/8th" seam allowance throughout. This is a reasonably simple pattern to follow with the trickiest bit being the button holes. Allow up to three hours to finish it. Size wise, I would put it at around age 3 months. YOU WILL NEED Half metre of Peter Rabbit fabric Fat quarter of lining fabric Pattern Cutting mat and rotary cutter Sharp scissors 3 Kam Snap pairs Kam Snap tool 4 buttons Sewing machine Iron and ironing board Elastic 2.5" pieces x2 METHOD 1. First you need to print out an assemble your pattern. There are 3 pieces. Join the two front parts and two back parts where indicated. Ensure your 1" mark measures 1" when printed. Cut the following: 2 front panels 2 front lining 2 back panels 2 back lining 4 straps (1.5" x 9.5") 2 Top front bib · Pocket (two designs to choose from) I have used the new Peter Rabbit fabric in blue as the main fabric and lining. For the bib and pockets, I have used the white London fabric but lined the bib in plain white. 2. Join your two front pieces and two back pieces together on the curved edge. Finish your seams as you go. I have used my overlocker but you can use a zig zag stitch or an over edge stitch if your machine has one. Press as you go. 3. Repeat with the lining pieces. Finish the bottom edge and press a 1/2" seam. like to batch sew to help save time so also sew: With right sides together, sew the sides and top edge of the front bib. With right sides together sew the sides and bottom edge of the straps. Clip the corners. Turn over a small seam on the pockets. For the single pocket top stitch the curved part and for the two smaller ones, top stitch the top. 4. Turn your straps and bib the right way. Use something pokey to push the corners out. Press. 5. Top stitch the straps and bib. Top stitch down the centre front and back, close to the seam. Sew your hem on the front and back lining. 6. Fold your bib in half to find the centre and match the centre with the front panel, right sides together. Place the lining over top, pin, sandwiching the three layers. Do the same with the back but insert your straps, around 1/2" from the edge. Sew, clip curves, turn out and press. 7. Pin your pockets into position and top stitch. 8. Open your front and lining pieces out and pin them together at the sides. Finish your side and bottom seams. 9. Place your elastic on the lining, close to the seam, an inch from the front bib section, back stitch it into place. Now pull it and sew, back stitch at the end. You may need to judge the length of your elastic yourself depending on how much stretch it has. When you release, it will gather. Repeat on both sides. 10. Turn to the right side, press and top stitch around the top edge. 11. You now need to press a seam allowance around the bottom. Sew your hem. 12. Insert your kam snaps. The back will be slightly bigger but don't worry, it allows room for nappies. 13. Now for the buttonholes. You could make more use of your KAM snaps instead and save yourself a lot of time, but I love a button and think they finished of the dungarees. My Janome machine has a great buttonhole and button option and came with the feet. If you are looking into a new machine, this is a feature you need to look for. All machines will be different, so I won't go into detail on how to make your buttonholes. I would recommend you do a practise on some scraps before you start. This will also help you work out where to start. For the buttons, add two to each strap 3cm and 5.5cm from the end. You are finished! I would love to hear if you give it a go. If you have liked this tutorial and want to keep up to date with future tutorials, new fabric arrivals and special offers, make sure you sign up to the mailing list.

Project by Leslie Foster Keep your pens, pencils or crochet hooks safe in this ready to snap crocodile case. Materials Everglades fat quarter set by the Craft Cotton Company Paper Pencil Ruler Scissors Black felt Needle Thread Pins Press-stud 1- Make a template for the crocodile pieces: a body piece, mouth/nose piece, teeth, and eyes. 2- Using the templates cut out from the fabrics: - Body template: two pieces of green with a 0.5cm seam allowance (main body), two pieces of blue with a 0.25cm seam allowance (lining). - Mouth/nose template: one piece of green and one piece of blue with a 0.5cm seam allowance (mouth outside and inside). - Eye template: two pieces of green, two pieces of white with patterns. - Teeth template: 12 pieces of white with patterns. 3- Take two of the teeth pieces, place right sides together and sew around the edges leaving one side unsewn. Turn out the right way. Repeat with the remaining teeth pieces to give you 6 teeth. 4- Take one of the green eye pieces and one of the white, place right sides together and sew around leaving the bottom straight edge unsewn. Turn out the right way and repeat with the remaining eye pieces. 5- Take the green mouth/nose piece and place down right side up, place the teeth down each side of the mouth/nose with the raw edge of the teeth against the raw edge of the mouth/nose piece. Take the two eyes and place them along the top edge of the mouth/nose piece with the raw edges of the eyes against the raw edge of the mouth/nose piece. Make sure you place the eyes white side down. Place the blue mouth/nose piece right side down on top and sew around to secure leaving a 5cm gap for turning. Turn out the right way and slip stitch closed. 6- Take the mouth/nose piece place it right side up and make sure the eyes are folded so the white side is facing down, take one of the green body pieces and place right side down on top. Sew along the top edge. 7- Take the remaining green body piece, fold the top edge over by 0.5cm and place right sides together with the body/nose/mouth piece. Sew around to secure leaving top edge unsewn. 8- Make the lining by taking the two blue fabric pieces and fold over the top edge of both by 0.5cm. Place right sides together and sew around to secure leaving the top edge unsewn. Do not turn out the right way. 9- Place the lining inside the crocodile body and sew around the top edge to secure. 10- Cut out two small circles from the black felt for the eye pupils and sew onto the eyes. 11- Cut out two small rectangles and sew onto the mouth/nose piece as nostrils. 12- Take the press-stud and sew one side onto the underside of the nose/mouth piece and the other onto the front of the main body. To see more from Lesley, visit her Instagram @hookstitchsew Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

This project has been created by Lisa at Create and Craft. Please click here for the original post. Heading out on your bike is a fantastic way to enjoy a sunny day – but it can be tricky finding an easy way to carry all your essentials along with you, if your bike has no storage… but not anymore! Forget awkward rucksacks or dangling shopping bags, this fantastic DIY handlebar bag by Becky Cole is the perfect way to ensure there’s space for everything, without hampering your ride at all! Check out Becky’s DIY tutorial below, and discover how to create your own handlebar bag that will make your next bike ride so much more enjoyable! Time to Make: 3-4 hrs Skill Level: Intermediate You Will Need: Fabric: Cotton fabric (top) 64cm x 30cm Cotton fabric (zip pocket) 28cm x 21cm Cotton fabric (front pocket) 28cm x 16cm Cotton fabric (lining) 64cm x 30cm Cotton fabric (pocket binding) 5m x 1.2m Cotton fabric (top binding/Velcro straps) 8cm x 1m Cotton fabric (inside panel) 12cm x 32cm In-R Form panels: 2 pieces measuring 21cm x 24cm 2 pieces measuring 10cm x 24cm 1 piece measuring 21cm x 10cm 1 piece measuring 15cm x 10cm Zip: 26cm Velcro: 20mm x 30cm Complementary sewing thread Sewing machine Sewing scissors Tape measure Straight pins Erasable Fabric pen Dressmaker’s ruler Zipper foot Step 1 Press the 5cm wide stripping in half. Line up the raw edges with the top edge of the front pocket piece. Stitch in place with a 1cm seam allowance. Trim away any excess of the fabric strip. Turn the pocket over and fold over the fabric strip to meet the line of stitching on the other side. Top stitch through the fabric strip along the previous line of stitching. Step 2 Position the front pocket on top of the zip pocket piece, lining up the bottom edge. Top stitch with a long basting machine stitch around the three edges, 5mm in. Top stitch through the fabric pieces directly down the centre of the front pocket creating two pockets. Reverse stitch over the binding for strength. Step 3 Fix the zipper foot to your sewing machine. Open up the zip and lay the bottom tape along the top edge of the zipper pocket fabric. Make sure that the tape of the zip sits over the top of the raw edge of the fabric. Turn the zip over so that the tape now sits behind the fabric. Press and top stitch close to the top edge, holding the zip in place. Step 4 Place the zipper pocket onto the bag fabric, lining up the bottom edge and 3cm from the left-hand side. Pin in place. Take the remainder of the fabric strip and press in half again, making sure the raw edge sits lower than the original folded edge. Turn the tape over and position it at the edge of the front pocket piece, so that it covers the other edge of the zipper. Top stitch down both sides of the tape, enclosing the zipper and fixing it in place. Step 5 Repeat this process with the tape running down both sides of the front pocket from the top edge of the bag to the bottom, enclosing the raw edges of the front pockets. Take care not to hit the metal ends of the zipper to avoid breaking your machine needle. Step 6 Fold the bag fabric piece in half width-ways, right sides together, lining up the edges. Sew a 1cm seam along the side and bottom. Trim away the excess in the bottom corners. Repeat with the lining fabric also. Step 7 Fold the bottom corners diagonally, lining up the bottom seam and the side seams to create a point. Pin the seams together to keep them lined up. Using your dressmaker’s ruler, measure approximately 5.6cm along the stitch line from the point and make a mark. Next, draw a line at right angles to the stitch line at this point. The line should be 10cm long; adjust the line’s position accordingly until this is achieved. Stitch across this line. Repeat for the opposite corner. Turn the bag through to the right side and press all seams. Repeat with the lining fabric also, but do not turn this through to the right side. Step 8 Temporarily turn the lining bag through so you are looking at the right side of the fabric. Cut two lengths of velcro to 10cm long. Position one of the loop side pieces onto the fabric, 9cm from the seamed edge and 6cm down from the top edge. Stitch in place around all 4 sides. Repeat with the other piece of loop tape on the opposite side so it mirrors the first. Turn the lining back through to the wrong side. Step 9 Set your sewing machine to the widest zigzag stitch you can (eg. 7). Join the In-R Form pieces together with the wide zigzag stitch along the seams to create the internal structure of the bag. Step 10 Insert the In-R Form shape into the top bag fabric, making sure it sits into the corners. Next, insert the lining piece inside this again, making sure the corners sit in neatly. Line up the top edges of the three layers, pin, and top stitch together with a wide basting machine stitch, 5mm in. Step 11 Fold the 8cm fabric strip in half and press. At one end, open up the tape and press down the corner diagonally before refolding in half. Start stitching at this point at the centre back of the top of the back, lining up the raw edge of the tape with the top of the back, and sewing a 1cm seam all the way around, as you did in step 1. When you come round to the point where you started, trim off any excess tape and tuck the raw end inside the diagonal fold you created initially, and top stitch over to finish. Step 12 Fold the tape over and stitch in the ditch along the tape seam to secure the other side down, binding the top of the bag all the way around. Step 13 Top stitch diagonally through the top edge binding at the corners to create sharp corners. Next, pin along the back side edges, catching in the top fabric, In-R Form, and lining. Top stitch a 1cm seam in from the edge all the way from the binding to the bottom, finishing off diagonally to the corner point. This will give the back of the back more structure and strength. Repeat along the back bottom edge. Step 14 With the remaining 8cm wide tape, cut two lengths 16cm long. Repress the fabric so that the raw edges fold into the centre and the tape is then pressed in half again, enclosing the raw edges inside. Cut 2 4cm lengths of Velcro. Taking one loop tape piece, fold down 5mm of the top edge of the tape and position the Velcro loop tape over the top. Top stitch all 4 sides, securing the loop tape in place and enclosing the raw edge of the fabric also. Turn the fabric tape over to the other side and repeat at the opposite end with the loop tape. Step 15 Fold the fabric tapes in half lengthways and mark the central point with a pin or your fabric pen. Position at the top edge of the back of the bag, each piece 4cm from the side edges. Stitch horizontally along the central line you marked, along the binding seam. Triple stitch these in place for strength. Step 16 To make the inner piece, fold the 32cm x 12cm piece of fabric in half widthways and stitch down both long edges and round the corners, leaving most of the short edge open. Trim the excess from the corners and turn through to the right side. Press the seams. Step 17 Insert the 10cm x 15cm piece of In-R Form to the fabric pocket. Pin the open edge closed. Step 18 Take the 10cm hook tapes from the Velcro you used in step 8 and position them at either end of the padded fabric piece. Stitch the Velcro in place, enclosing the open edge at the same time. The fabric shape should now fold freely at the stitched points. Fold these edges in so that the hook tape is on the outside. Insert it into the top of the back and fix in place with the Velcro strips you stitched to the lining. You now have a secure place for a drinks bottle. Step 19 Your DIY handlebar bag is now complete! Now you’re all set to plan your next adventure! Pack your handlebar bag, pop it on your handlebar, and go exploring! This project has been created by Lisa at Create and Craft. Please click here for the original post.

Project by Angela Harkness Brighten up your vegetable patch with this quick and easy bunting. You will need Craft Cotton Co Vegetable Patch fat quarter pack Bias-binding Quilting rulers Rotary cutter Mat Directions for bunting Step 1: Using your rotary cutter and ruler, cut your patterned fabric into strips 6 ½” wide Cut the strips into triangles by cutting around a 45 degree triangle ruler, flipping the ruler to nestle the triangles together to reduce fabric wastage Step 2: With flipping the ruler, some of the bunting pieces will have the fabric pattern upside down. Position a back and front bunting piece together and sew along one of the diagonal edges. At the point, stop with needle in down position, turn fabric then stitch two stitches across the point, stop with needle down again, turn fabric and sew along second diagonal edge. This may take a little longer while sewing but makes turning and pressing out the point much easier to manage. Step 3: Continue with the remainder of the bunting pieces using the ‘chain-piecing’ technique which saves time and thread. Once finished, snip the threads joining all of the pieces together. Step 4: Turn each bunting piece through. Using a bamboo turner/kebab stick/blunt knitting needle or crochet hook helps to get each point turned through. Be careful not to poke whichever tool you use through the fabric. Step 5: Press each bunting piece then snip off the fabric ‘ears’ for a tidier finish. Step 6: Decide on the pattern design combination for your bunting string. Once happy with the design, pin each bunting piece to the bias tape. Leaving a gap between each piece helps the bunting to drape when hanging. Sew the bias tape in place, using the needle position function is a great help. Step 7: Your bunting is now finished! To see more from Angela, visit her on Instagram @angrellas_crafts Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need: 4 FQ heavy weight interfacing matching thread Pattern - print out All seam allowances are half an inch throughout. Instructions 1. Download a pattern from the internet or use the one attached. Join pieces as shown and cut out 6 by 2 lots of hat tops from 2 of the FQ, cut out 2 brims from the other 2 FQ and 1 from the interfacing. 2. Take 2 sections of the hat top, sew them together along one of the long sides, right sides together. Repeat with 2 other pieces. Press seam allowances to one side, a make sure they all go in the same direction. Take of of the single hat top pieces and join to the one of the already sewn together pieces. Repeat with the other pieces. Press seams to one side. Place the 2 sets of 3 hat top pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Machine sew together and press seam allowances to one side. Be careful to have all the points coming together. Repeat all the above with the lining hat top pieces. 3. If desired, top stitch ¼” from the seams, catching in the seam allowances. 4. Around the bottom of the hat top pieces run a line of stitching (larges stitch on your sewing machine) to ease it in. Put to one side. 5. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the underside layer of the brim of the hat. Sew the brim together on the short edges. 6. Attach the corresponding brim to the hat top, right sides together. Press well. 7. With right sides together, sew the hat pieces together, along the outer edge of the brim, matching seams 8. Trim seam allowance to ¼ inch. 9. Unpick some of the stitch between the hat top and brim of the lining, approximately 3 inches to turn the hat to the right sides out. 10. Turn hat right side out. 11. Press well. Using a ladder stitch sew gap closed that you turned hat through. 12. Top stitch, ¼ inch from brim edge and from hat top (on brim), press well. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Sew Jessali Click here for the full tutorial. With a few basic sewing techniques, you can create your own custom face covering that is easily adjustable and suited to you. The best fabric to use for your homemade mask is tightly woven 100% cotton. Use with our homemade ear savers for added comfort. The tutorial can be found here . Project and instructions by sewing expert Sophia Palmer from Sew Jessalli. Please note: This face covering is not a medical device. Please see government guidance. For information regarding local groups of sewing volunteers who have been making for their communities and how to join in, please visit The Big Community Sew.

Project by Sew Jessali Click here for the full project. Create your own mask at home with a few basic sewing techniques! You’ll be able to make a shaped, comfortable face covering with your pick of patterns or colours. The best fabric to use for your homemade face covering is tightly woven 100% cotton. Use with our homemade ear savers for added comfort. The tutorial can be found here. All seam allowances 10mm unless stated otherwise. Project and instructions by sewing expert Sophia Palmer from Sew Jessalli. Please note: This face covering is not a medical device. Please see government guidance. For information regarding local groups of sewing volunteers who have been making for their communities and how to join in, please visit The Big Community Sew.

This project has been created by Billy at Create and Craft. Please click here for the original post. Looking for a way to store those loose bits and bobs? Debbie Shore’s Hanging Wall Organiser is a handy storage unit that takes up what is usually wasted space… the back of the door! Useful for the bathroom, kitchen, kids’ bedroom or craft room, it’s a practical solution to your storage needs. Download the pattern and follow Debbie’s step-by-step instructions below to craft your own hanging organiser… you can adapt the size easily and add as many pockets as you need! You Will Need: 18” x 15” fabric for the front 18” x 15” single sided fusible foam stabiliser 18” x 15” backing fabric 23” x 15” pocket fabric 25” ribbon 2 x snap hooks 18” dowelling 24” cord to hang Wet fabric glue Printable Template [DOWNLOAD HERE] Step 1 To make your hanging wall organiser, first fuse the foam stabiliser to the wrong side of the front fabric. Step 2 Cut two pieces of pocket fabric measuring 16” x 5”, and two measuring 16” x 4”. Then cut four pocket pieces from your downloadable pattern. Step 3 Sew the long pocket pieces right sides together along the top and bottom to form two tubes. Next, turn the right side out and press, then edge stitch across the tops. Step 4 Sew the remaining pocket pieces right sides together, leaving a turning gap in the bottom of about 2”. Next, turn the right side out and press, then edge stitch across the tops. Step 5 Cut two lengths of ribbon measuring 4”, then fold through the swivel snaps and glue in place. Step 6 Place the long small pocket over the back of the hanger, 1 ½” from the top; the two shaped pockets evenly 2” from the bottom, then the larger pocket in the centre. You may find clips easier than pinning as the foam is quite thick. Sew across the bottom of each pocket. Place the swivel snaps over the bases of the two bottom pockets, and sew. Step 7 Bring the sides of the bottom pockets towards the centre to give them shape, then pin the tops. Step 8 Sew along the sides – make sure you reverse stitch at the tops to make the seams strong. Now sew dividing lines along the long pockets, wherever you like! Smaller pockets for pens, larger ones for letters… I’ve sewn mine 4” from each side, leaving a larger pocket in the centre. Step 9 Cut three strips of ribbon, each measuring 4”, then fold in half and sew evenly spaced to the top of the hanger, facing inwards. Step 10 Sew the backing fabric right sides together to the front of the hanger, leave a turning gap in the base of about 4”. Snip across the corners, turn the right side out and press.  Now edge stitch all around to complete your hanging wall organiser. This project has been created by Billy at Create and Craft. Please click here for the original post.

Project by Kimberley This wrap dress is a flattering, versatile style that can be worn casual or more dressy. I've made mine in jersey for a more summery day time dress. The fabric I've used is gifted from The Craft Cotton Company and is an organic jersey spandex that was designed by Tilly Walnes from Tilly and the Buttons. This jersey collection features lots of pastel rainbow colours and bold geometric prints which will just brighten up your wardrobe! The Vienna dress pattern is by Fibre Mood and suggests using fabric with a good drape and not too stiff.  I opted for the PDF version because I am impatient! The instructions are all on the website and can be accessed once you set up an account. I've used an overlocker (Janome AirThread 2000D) to finish edges and roll the hems of my dress but this can all be achieved on a sewing machine too. Some tips for working with jersey - if you find that the fabric is curling too much, spray it with some spray starch to make it firmer so you can cut the patterns easier. the fabric will curl inwards along the cut edge and outwards along the selvage edge, this is a good way to determine the direction of the grainline. It will also probably be stretchier one way than the other, this is the grainline. use a jersey needle or ballpoint needle to help your machine to sew through the jersey with ease. There's nothing worse that your machine struggling to stitch your fabric. use a walking foot to help the fabric move under the foot (this feeds the fabric through from the top as well as the bottom so it won't slip as easily) don't stretch the fabric as you're sewing seams, this will give them a warped shape. Let your machine feed it through. How I made my dress - 1. Cut out all pattern pieces carefully. Mark the notches on your pattern pieces. 2. Overlock the shoulder and side seams of the front and back top pieces. Do the same with the side seams of the skirt back and the side seams of the two front pieces. 3. Sew the shoulder seams right sides together and press open. If you are using striped or and other bold print, try to match the pattern if possible. 4. I used a rolled hem on the overlocker to finish the neckline. Settings used on my overlocker: - switch to "R" -switch to "tight" -bigger dial on the side set to "R" -smaller dial is on 1.25 (practice on a scrap piece of fabric to see how it will look and adjust accordingly) Alternatively, create bias binding from the fabric for the neckline and arm holes. (instructions for this on Fibre Mood website) 5. Finish the arm holes in the same way. 6. Sew the side seams right sides together and press open. 7. Sew the sides seams of the skirt right sides together. 8. Use the rolled hem seam to finish the diagonal edges of the front skirt and the hem. 9. Wrap the front of the dress by overlapping one of the front pieces on top of the other and stitch in place. (decide which way you want your wrap over to go first) 10. Do the same with the top part of the dress. Wrap one front piece over the other and stitch in place. 11. Turn your skirt wrong side out and slip the top inside the skirt, lining up the raw edges. Match up the side seams and notches, pin and sew in place. (pattern match in possible) 12. Measure a piece of elastic against your waist to decide how tight you'd like the waistband to be. 13. Sew the 2 raw edges of the elastic together using a zig zag stitch on your machine. This will create a band. 14. Mark 4 points on your elastic, front, back, and the 2 sides evenly. 15. Place the elastic around the seam of the dress you have just created, pinning the 4 points to the dress. Match the side seams with the side points on the elastic and same with the front and back. 16. Sew the elastic to the waistband, stretching between each point as you sew. 17. Turn the dress right side out and you are finished! Optional - add a small stitch or popper to the V neck if it is a bit low To see more from Kim, visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes or visit her blog What Kimberley Makes.

Follow my tutorial on how to make your very own ‘Japanese tote bag’. These stunning fabrics are all available from Craft Cotton. These fat quarters were taken from the Japanese Metallic Navy and Red fabrics. I decided to team these beauties up with some solid black, and some beautiful silver metallic Gutermann thread, colour 7009 Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size: 14” x 14” Materials 4 FQ from the Japanese metallic range available at Craft Cotton 3 FQ of solid black fabric FQ of H200 light iron-on interfacing by vlieseline Gutermann thread, colours 7009 and 1238 Haberdashery items Iron-away marker pen Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors Iron Cutting mat Basic sewing supplies Paper to make your Petal template Making the tote bag Step 1: Cutting Two 15in x17in squares from the solid black One 15in x 17in square from the metallic flowers on red One 15in x 17in square from the gold metallic flowers on navy One 34in x 3.5in strip in black One 34in x 3.5in strip in metallic flowers on navy 5 petals from a variety of the prints 5 petals from interlining Fussy cut one large flower and fuse to a piece of interfacing Assembling the tote bag To make your petal template, cut a piece of paper to measure 5in x 10.5in, fold in half along the shorter length, and in half again, creating a rectangle measuring 2.5in x 5.25in, draw a curve using the edge of a dinner plate, from the two points. Cut out. Fuse your petals to the interfacing, by drawing around the template onto the interfacing, cut out, and fuse to your chosen fabrics. Cut out your 5 petals, repeat this process for the large flower. Take one piece of the black fabric, and lay portrait, mark with a white removable pen, or with pins, and line which sits 3.5in from the base of the bag – this is where the base of your bag will be, so you don’t want the petals on this bit. Pin your petals in place, fold over the black fabric along the drawn line, and trim off the excess petal. Using the Gutermann silver metallic thread, blanket stitch around the petals, add the flower, trim using the same process as the petals, and blanket stitch in place. Lay your two long strips RST and sew 1/4in along each long edge, turn right way out and press, this will make a gorgeous extra wide strap. Pin your strap in place, and sew the bag together, by laying the front and back pieces RST and sew along the three edges - Not along the top, repeat this process for the two lining pieces, leaving a 4in gap in this along the bottom edge, for turning your bag the right way out. You have two bags now, joined together. To create the base for you bag, pull the bottom corners out (like opened a packet of crisps) and draw a line 2in from the corner, sew along this line, and trim of excess. Repeat this process for the other three corners. Push it all through the gap (the most exciting part) and press. Hand-sew up the gap with a simple ladder stitch. Top stitch using the Gutermann metallic thread 1/8in, all the way around the top of your bag. That’s your tote bag finished, you could even add a pocket to the lining on yours. I love the extra wide strap, makes its so comfy and really shows off the gorgeous fabrics. This ‘Japanese Tote Bag’ tutorial has been created by me - creativeblonde. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/creativeblonde66 and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for the fabrics found in this tutorial www.craftcotton.com 0161 832 9431 Stockist for Gutermann threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #japanese #totebag #fabriceditions #metallic #freesewingtutorial #accessories

Project by Anna R Over the last few years, I've seen more and more jumpsuits emerging both on the high street and as sewing patterns. At first, I wasn't entirely sure if I liked the style, but as more and more different jumpsuits started appearing I began really liking them. My apprehension about making a jumpsuit wasn't because I didn't like them but because I could never really see myself wearing one. What truly sold me on making a jumpsuit was this pattern, the Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit. I know that it's been around for a while and I've certainly liked it for a while but I now felt like I could actually wear it if I made it. I decided that I wanted to make a jumpsuit at the start of this year and have spent a long time looking at patterns - there are a lot of jumpsuit sewing patterns out there! The main thing I wanted was for it to be fitted at the waist, and I like the design feature of the tie. Thanks to the popularity of the Zadie Jumpsuit I knew about this pattern and thought it looked lovely. The only thing that put me off the pattern was that it's PDF only (and I hate PDFs!) but I liked it so much that I bought the pattern anyway. I bought a copyshop version from The Foldline so that I didn't have to print it which is great, except that it's definitely not worth it cost-wise compared to getting a paper pattern and I always trace my patterns anyway. Again, thanks to the popularity of the Zadie Jumpsuit I knew that there were some common tweaks that most people made to the pattern. I read quite a few blog posts that people had written and a recurring theme was that it came up really big and that the crotch was way too long. I'm not sure I was quite prepared for the extent of this though!  When I saw the pattern I noticed how long the crotch was but didn't want to take too much length out in case it was part of a design feature. Well, it may be part of the design feature but I find it hard to believe that the extent of the crotch length is intentional! I took out 1" at the lengthen/shorten line on the trousers and decided against taking out more because there would be no solution if the crotch ended up too short. I was slightly amazed at how long it was even after this adjustment once I tried it on though! After attaching the legs to the bodice I had to take out a further 1.25" by literally cutting fabric off the top of the trousers. This is not ideal as the wrap doesn't quite match up and risks the pockets becoming too small but luckily it worked fine, I don't think it's at all noticeable. The important thing is that the jumpsuit is still entirely wearable and because the pockets are so big I can still easily fit my hands into them. Also, I now know to take out a good 2" when I cut the legs next time! The other adjustment I made isn't really an adjustment but on as recommended I sized down and made a size 6 which is the smallest size. Again, I was wary about doing this but I'm so glad I did as it fits perfectly. I have quite a large difference in size between my waist and my hips and often find things are too tight on my hips but this pattern is loose in style and is still nice and roomy. There are some really interesting details in this pattern, in particular the wrap which comes up from below the waist. I'm not a massive fan of bias binding but I've grown weirdly fond of sewing it recently and enjoyed taking my time to make it really neat. I chose to make the 3/4 length of wide-legged trousers and short sleeves. For the fabric, I knew I wanted to use a plain chambray and this one from Craft Cotton Co is so perfect. One thing I would say is that this pattern is a fabric eater! The fabric I used was relatively narrow so luckily I had 3m because it was almost all used up. Whilst this jumpsuit is still slightly out of my comfort zone I really love it and it does feel very 'me'. In using a plain fabric and having short sleeves and a shorter leg length it is a lot easier for me to wear and feels really perfect for the summer. I'd really like to make this pattern again, possibly in black and I'd also like to make a short playsuit version. To see more from Anna, visit her on Instagram @letsgetsewing1 Made by Anna for The Craft Cotton Company 2020