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Project by Paula Milner- The Crafty Lass You Will Need: Fabric: outer bag fabric, inner lining and fabric for pockets – see measurements below Ribbon: width smaller than 1cm (½in) wide and minimum 84cm (33in) long Thread Tools: Fabric scissors Pins Needle Measuring tape Pencil Iron and ironing board Large safety pin Make these fun and simple to make lined drawstring bags! - How to Make: - 1. Choose and Measure Select which fabrics you would like for the main outer bag, lining and pockets. You could have a different lining to the outer, different pockets – and even a different front and back – it’s completely up to you! Measure out your fabric. You will need: Cut two 36cm (14.1in) x 48cm (18.9in) for the bag outer (one for the back and one for the front) Cut two 36cm (14.1in) x 48cm (18.9in) for the inner lining (one for the back and one for the front) Cut two 20cm (7.8in) x 20cm (7.8in) for the front larger pocket Cut two 14cm (5.5in) x 10cm (3.9in) the smaller front pocket 2. Bag Outer - Marking On the wrong side of the bag front, mark the casing position: measure down the side edges by 6cm (2¼in) from the top and mark on either side. Mark down a further 2cm (¾in). At the bottom of the bag front also measure up the side edges by 2cm (¾in) and then a further 2cm (¾in). This will be where the ribbons will later be inserted to form the bag handles. 3. Bag Outer - Sewing Place the bag front and back right sides together and, taking a 1cm (½in) seam allowance, stitch the side seams from the top edge to the first mark. Backstitch to secure the stitching. Start stitching again at the second mark, leaving the casing section unstitched. Again, backstitch at the start to secure the stitching, then continue towards the bottom of the bag until you meet your first bottom mark. Backstitch to secure the stitching. Start stitching again at the second mark - again, backstitch at the start to secure the stitching, leaving the gap between unstitched. At the bottom of the bag, pivot with the needle down and stitch bottom edge. Pivot again at the second corner then stitch the second side edge as the first, leaving the gap at the bottom and casing section unstitched. 4. Bag Outer – Casing Part 1. To make the first part of the casing, turn under the top edge by 5cm (2in) and press. Stitch all the way round, just below the open seam section at the side edges. You will later stitch a parallel row of above the first row to create your channel (see below) but this will happen once the ribbons are inserted and the lining has gone inside. 5. Pockets – Part 1 Sewing. With both of the pockets – put the right sides together and using a 1cm (½in) seam allowance, stitch all the way around leaving a small gap to turn the fabrics out the right way around. Push the corners out and press. The gap for turning should ideally be on either the sides or bottom of the pocket. 6. Pockets – Part 2 Sewing together Place the smaller front pocket on to the larger pocket in the centre and pin in to position. Stitch along one side, along the bottom and up the other side to create the pocket. 7. Pockets – Part 3 Placing Turn your outer bag the right way out. Place your now sewn together pocket pieces on to the bag outer front in the centre and pin into position. As above, stitch along one side, along the bottom and up the other side to create the now double pocket. You could do this prior to even making the bag outer – but it feels easier to ensure you have your pockets in the correct position once initially constructed. 8. Ribbons Cut your piece of ribbon or cord into two equal lengths. This will need to be just over the same length as the width of the bag + the height of the bag around 84cm (33in). Using a safety pin, feed one end of the ribbon through the gap of the casing – push all the way around and out the same side. Then, push both ends of the ribbon through the gap at the bottom of the bag. On the inside, stitch over the gap/ribbons to secure them into place. Feed the second piece of ribbon from the other side edge, again all the way around, and then repeat by pushing through the gap at the bottom of the bag and on the inside, stitch over the gap/ribbons to secure them into place. 9. Inner Lining Place the bag front and back right sides together and, taking a 1cm (½in) seam allowance, stitch the side seams from the top edge to the bottom of the bag. Pivot with the needle down and stitch along the bottom edge. Pivot again at the second corner then stitch up the second side edge as the first. Turn under the top edge by 5cm (2in) and press. Place inside the bag outer and line up the pressed edges together. Pin into position. 10. Casing Part 2 Finally stitch both the outer bag and the inner lining together with a parallel row of stitches 2.5cm (1in) above the first row to create your channel – ensuring not to trap the ribbons inside. Et voila! A drawstring bag with double pockets… Enjoy! To see more from Paula follow her on Instagram @thecraftylass. The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com This tutorial was inspired by ‘Drawstring Bags’ from ‘Fun with Fat Quarters’ by Wendy Gardiner – Searchpress. Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Paula Milner- The Crafty Lass You Will Need: Fabric Thread (OPTIONAL – Buttons, zip, poppers or ribbons) Craft Essentials: Sewing Machine Fabric Scissors Pins Tape Measure Iron - How to Make: 1. Select, Cut & Press Select, measure and cut out your fabrics - I have used the five designs within The Crafty Lass Petal and Pip fabric range for both sides of the cover. You could mix and match with plains on the inside, or even contrasting prints. The measurements were based on a duvet cover we use regularly - so you can adapt these, but I used as below. Press if needed. 9 pieces of fabric 235cm x 45cm 1 piece of fabric 235cm x 65cm 2. Front Pieces- Sew Take 4 strips of your fabric that are 235cm x 45cm and the one that is 235cm x 65cm. Decide the order you would like these to be in on your cover. You will sew these together in rows along each 235cm edge using a 1.5cm seam allowance. You will need the 235cm x 65cm length piece to be at the bottom. 3. Back Pieces- Sew Take your remaining back 5 pieces and repeat as above. 4. Back Piece- Seam On your now fully sewn back piece turn the bottom edge in by 1.5cm and using a 1cm seam allowance and straight running stitch sew all the way along the edge to secure. 5. Assemble Working from the top - line the front and back pieces on to each other, right sides together. Pinning can help to keep things in line as the duvet cover is so large, and it does get heavy! Your front piece will be longer than the back. At the bottom, turn the longer edge back over so it lines up against the front piece. This will create a ‘pillow’ style bottom edge to your duvet cover. 6. Sew Starting at one edge of the bottom, and working towards the top use a 1.5cm seam allowance and a straight line stitch. Go all the way up, pivot on the corner, go along the top edge, pivot on the opposite corner, before sewing back down to the bottom again, leaving the final bottom edge open, ready for your duvet. 7. Turn Out Turn out the right way and push the corners out. Press if required. 8. Inner Insert your duvet cover! You will need to tuck your bottom duvet covers into the pillow style edge. Optionally you could also add buttons and button holes, a long zip edge, poppers or even ribbon ties if you felt the cover needed it. Et voila… One duvet cover! To see more from Paula follow her on Instagram @thecraftylass Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Daisy Lawn This could be made using various fabrics to utilise different uses. A Fat Quarter Bundle gives an option to use many different panel pieces. 1. Cut your fabric. 2. Now we have all pieces cut (1/4” seam allowance throughout) Sew two bottom pieces of outer fabrics together, press seam open. 5. Fuse the interfacing onto the inside. 6. Fold in half outsides together and stitch up the two short edges. 7. Box the corners, using 5” side to side, mark and stitch. 8. Cut off corners leaving ¼". Repeat this process for Lining (except interfacing). Put to one side. 9. Handles- Stitch each different fabrics along long edge, press seam open, fuse interfacing to the exact centre. 10. Fold outer edges to centre press. 11. Fold in half, press. 12. Top stitch both sides. 13. Rim- Fuse interfacing to two pieces. 14. Mark 4” from each end on both pieces (this is handle placements) 15. Pin Handles in place. 16. Lay second Rim piece on top, right sides together and stitch along length. 17. Press seams open. 18. Stitch ends to form a ring. 19. Fold and Press, Top Stitch top handle edge and stitch close to raw edge to make easier when attaching. 20. Cover- Right sides together, stitch each side, leaving 2” from the top each side. 21. Press seams open top to bottom, stitch each seam from top to bottom each side. 22. On the top {open 2”} fold and press ¼”, fold and press ¾”. 23. Stitch close to edge (Cord Placement Casing). 24. Place lining inside the outer, insides together. 25. Stitch to hold together. 26. Turn the Cover inside out, insert the rim with handles downwards. Insert bag liner right side out, then stitch all round, securing everything together. 27. Turn right side out, thread cord through casing and add two little fabric tabs to each end of the cords. Finished! Made by Daisy Lawn, for The Craft Cotton Co 2022

Project by Daisy Lawn You Will Need: Sewing Machine Cutting Mat Rotary Cutter Scissors 1 x Fat Quarter Bundle Instructions: 1. Press each Fat Quarter. Lay front fat quarter face up, lay pocket fat quarter (pressed in half) level with raw edge bottom and lay back fat quarter wrong side up. 2. Cut straps: from one fat quarter cut 6 x 2 ½” strips. 3. Mark pocket spacing: 21 ½” total, ¼” seam allowance each end, mark 2 vertical lines 7” apart. This forms 3 pockets. 4. Stitch down each marked pocket line, attaching it to the front piece only. 5. Join Strap pieces together into one long strip. 6. Press seams open. 7. Press small fold each side then press in half. 8. Top stitch each side. 9. Stitch around all three sides of apron sandwich leaving 3 ½” at the top of apron each side. 10. Turn Right side out, and press. 11. Lay the strap, matching centres inside the top. 12. Stitch closed also another row under the strap encasing it within (this gives the waist some body) Top stitch to the top of the pockets. Finished! Made by Daisy Lawn, for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Nicola Hills Peter Rabbit fabrics are a personal favourite. I was so happy to get the chance to make a project with these beautiful new designs.. My finished cushion size 17.5” x 17.5” You Will Need: Home grown happiness fabrics. Felt or Cotton Wadding. An 18” Zip Wool for Pom Pom Rabbit Template. Tools Required: Iron Pom pom maker Basic sewing kit - How To: - 1. Cut 4 x 3.5” strips of the white fabrics Cut 3 x 2.5” strips of the blue fabric With right sides together sew the fabric strips together. Iron the seams out flat. 2. Adding the Bunny- if you don’t feel confident to draw a template there are many free images on the internet. *Just make sure you choose one without a copyright or restrictions of use* I used a cotton wadding for the appliqué bunny , you could use felt. Pin to secure onto your front fabric, I used the blanket stitch on my sewing machine. 3. Cut a piece of backing fabric the same size as the front, when trimmed mine measured 17.5” x 17.5” A zip can be inserted or envelope back if you do not feel confident inserting a zip. I added decorative stitches across each strip joint. 4. To finish off Make a lovely fluffy Pom Pom to decorate bunny’s tail. To see more from Nicola follow her on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin. Please share your makes with us #bobbincottagebodkin #craftcottonco Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Katie Done- The Fabric Squirrel I have been working on a Christmas table runner since about September. The earlier I start with Christmas, the longer it seems to take me. So, as is tradition, I finished it the week of Christmas. One of the reasons that it took me so long, was working out how to back the table runner. It seemed a waste of "nice fabric" to back it with something that coordinated but it also seemed a shame to use a plain fabric. The answer was simple really, make it double sided! So now I have a fancy one for later in the year, two runners and half the storage space too. I love this idea so much that I might need to make a Easter / Halloween runner. For the Christmas side I have used the navy and gold collection from Craft Cottons 2021 Christmas collection. They often have a range in these colours but slightly different each year. For the reverse I have used metallic tropicals, also from Craft Cotton. Although they are completely different, they have some similarities that meant I could use a binding that worked on both sides. Finished Size: 74" x 12½” Seam Allowance: 1/4" YOU WILL NEED Metallic Tropicals Long Quarter Full Set Navy Blue Plain Half Metre Grey Plain Half Metre Navy and Metallic Christmas Fat Quarters Wadding Sewing Machine Iron and Ironing Board Rotary Cutter and Mat METHOD - CHRISTMAS SIDE I have used the present block from my Christmas block along to make 5 of the blocks. You can get the full instructions here. I have used plain grey as the background for the bow. The fabrics I have used are: Present 1 - Navy Mistletoe and White Stars Present 2 - Navy Trees and White Sprigs Present 3 - Navy Snowflakes and White Stars Present 4 - Navy Mistletoe and White Sprigs Present 5 - Navy Trees and White Stars Present 6 - Navy Snowflakes ad Sprigs Present 7 - Navy Mistletoe and White Sprigs Present 8 - Navy Trees and White Stars Present 9 - Navy Snowflakes and White Sprigs Every other present is slightly different, but an easier pattern. This is the cutting instructions for one present but there are 4 of this style in total. Seam Allowance: ¼” Unfinished size: 6" x 10" Finished size (when sewn into your quilt): 5½” x 9½” Cutting (width x height): Navy 2 - 2 ¾" x 8" White 2 - 2½” Squares 1½” x 8" Grey 2- 1 ¼” 4½” x 2½” 10 - 2" x 10" 2 - 77" x 2" 1. With your 4½” x 2½” grey and two white squares, make your flying geese. Draw a diagonal line across the white squares with a soluble pen and line it up to the edge of the grey. Sew along this line. 2. Trim and press this seam open. 3. Repeat on the other side. 4. Press seam open. 5. Sew your navy blue pieces to either side of the one long white piece. 6. Add the grey to either side of the flying geese. 7. Press seams open. 8. Join the two pieces together. You need 4 of these in total for the Christmas side of your table runner. Lay out your presents in an order that pleases you. I have alternated the two types of presents. Sew a grey 2" strip in-between each block. Sew a grey border to the top and bottom of the row of presents. Give it a good press and put it to one side while you make the reverse. METHOD - TROPICAL SIDE I have cut the strips 25cm tall because that is the height of a long quarter. I always cut my fabrics to order so if you would prefer a fat quarter set cut as long quarters, please just leave me a note (subject to the availability). They are all 2½”wide and you will need the following quantity in each design: Pink Trees - 9 Navy Leaves - 9 Turquoise Pineapples - 9 Blue Leopard Print - 8 Green Leopards - 8 1. Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew all the strips together in the order as listed above. I did this by sewing in pairs first, then sewing those pairs together and so on. 2. Give it a good press, I have pressed these to one side. 3. Sew a 2" wide navy strip to the top and bottom. This is going to be ever so slightly bigger than the other side to make it a little easier to line up. 4. Time to layer up. I didn't have wadding long enough so I have joined it using one of my favourite tricks. I just line two pieces together and iron on a strip of interfacing to act like tape. With your two runners facing out and your wadding in the centre, carefully lay them together. The easiest way to do this will be to lay one out on the floor and place the wadding on first, smooth it out and then roll it up. Then lay your other runner out, line up the ends and carefully unroll, smoothing as you go. 5. Use curved safety pins or pins to baste the layers together. 6. Add your quilting in your desired design. I have gone with my fool proof favourite, wavy lines using the stitch on my Janome machine. I have done this a machine foot width either side of the grey vertical lines on the present side in grey thread. I have chosen curvy lines because they are more forgiving. Straight stitches are going to be very obvious if they aren't perfect on both sides. 7. Trim your edges using a quilting ruler and rotary cutter for accuracy. 8. Now all is left to do is bind your runner. I have made my own binding using 2" wide navy blue fabric that coordinates with each side. Give it a good press, and you are ready to go! I made some Christmas table mats in a similar collection a few years ago, you can still get the tutorial for those here. Now I just need to make some table mats to match the tropical side. Happy sewing! I would love to hear from you if you give it a go so make sure you leave me a comment or tag me in your social media posts @thefabricsquirrel Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Kimberley Hind A ruffled apron has been on my mind for the longest time, so when I received this adorable fabric from The Craft Cotton Company, I knew it was the right one for the job! Peter Rabbit is a classic character and these prints that feature veggies and plants too make it perfect for kitchen sewing projects. There are so many lovely apron patterns available, but the one I used for this project is the ‘Little Girls Ruffle Apron’ by The Freckled Pear whose patterns are available from Etsy (and is very reasonably priced!) Seller’s description- “Whether it’s for your own little kitchen helper, your grand-daughter or for a unique gift idea-this apron, handmade with love, is a great way for that special girl to look simply adorable while baking up a batch of cookies. The apron skirt is made up of three fun, flouncy ruffles anchored to a backing. The bodice is fully lined. The neck and waist ties are double-sided and topstitched to lay flat after laundering. The ties can be adjusted as she grows and are plenty long for tying in a nice bow. All seams are finished with no raw edges so the apron will hold up well for lots of fun times in the kitchen.” Sewing experience level: advanced beginner to intermediate seamstress Using contrasting fabrics works well with this style of apron and makes the ruffles and ties really stand out. I had just under a metre of these 2 fabrics which was plenty to make the apron as well as the lining. I used some scrap pieces of the sage green cotton for Easter Bunny Headbands which can also be found on my website. The pattern instructions were clear to follow with illustrations and can be made in sizes ranging from age 3 up to age 10. I made mine up in a size 5-6 so there’s plenty of growing room! This is the ultimate, girly, cottagecore-style apron and definitely gets me in to mood to bake this Spring. My mission now is to make one in adults’ size one to match! To see more from Kim follow her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes or visit her website whatkimberleymakes. Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Kimberley Hind Sew up a cute headband for little ones this Easter. This fun, crafty project is a great for using up small pieces of fabrics and is perfect for egg hunts, parties or just dressing up! There’s florist wire inside the ears giving them stability and they can be bent at different angles. The foliage from faux leaves and the lace ties creates a pretty, bohemian-style headband the kids will love to wear (and adults alike!) Fabric: 'Home Grown Hoppiness' What you’ll need: 36 x 18cm Outer ear fabric – I’ve used a plain cream cotton 37 x 18cm fusible wadding – I’ve used Vlieseline H640 37 x 22cm Inner ear and band fabric – I’ve used Peter Rabbit cotton 14 x 18cm fusible adhesive sheet – I’ve used Bondaweb 100cm Ribbon or crochet lace for the ties 2 x 50cm lengths of florist wire Faux flowers and leaves to decorate – I’ve used foliage from a garland Hot glue gun Pins Hand sewing needle and thread Ear Pattern download Download the free ears template here - Print to 100% scale and cut out the 2 shapes before starting. What you’ll need: 36 x 18cm Outer ear fabric – I’ve used a plain cream cotton 37 x 18cm fusible wadding – I’ve used Vlieseline H640 37 x 22cm Inner ear and band fabric – I’ve used Peter Rabbit cotton 14 x 18cm fusible adhesive sheet – I’ve used Bondaweb 100cm Ribbon or crochet lace for the ties 2 x 50cm lengths of florist wire Faux flowers and leaves to decorate – I’ve used foliage from a garland Hot glue gun Pins Hand sewing needle and thread Instructions: 1. Cut 4 of the outer ear using the template. Cut 2 of the inner ear using the template. Cut 2 pieces of wadding using the outer ear template. Cut 2 strips of fabric measuring 37 x 4cm Cut 1 piece of wadding measuring 37 x 4cm 2. Fuse the wadding to the back of 2 outer ear shapes with a hot iron. Fuse the strip of wadding to the back of one strip of fabric. 3. Fuse the Bondaweb to the back of the 2 inner ear pieces. 4. Peel the backing off the inner ears and place to the centre of each outer ear piece. Sew around the edges using a small zigzag stitch to neaten. 5. Place the back outer ear piece to the front right sides together. Sew with a 5mm seam allowance leaving the bottom open. Turn the right side out and press. 6. Bend the florist wire into the shape of the ear. Push the wire through the hole and mould to the edges 7. Twist the ends of the wire together. Trim off any excess wire and tuck the ends inside the ear. Repeat with the second ear. 8. Hand sew the end of the ears closed. 9. Sew the long strips right sides together along one long edge. Pin the ribbon or lace to the short ends of one of the headband strips facing inwards. 10. Tuck the lace/ribbon inside the fabric strip and sew right sides together around all 4 edges, leaving a small turning gap in the bottom. Be careful not to sew the lace into the seam. 11. Turn right side out and press. You can use the ties to help pull the headband right side out. Hand sew the opening closed 12. Find the centre of the headband by folding in half and using a pin to mark the centre point. Use a hot glue gun to adhere the ears either side of that centre point. 13. Arrange the foliage on the headband underneath the ears. Once happy with the placement, use a hot glue gun to secure in place. To see more from Kim follow her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes. Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Michelle Roberts aka Creative Blonde How gorgeous is the new Winter Berry fabric? Follow my tutorial to make some scented bunting Materials 2 FQ’s of your favourite Winter Berry fabric 2 FQ of cream solid fabric 80” Forest green bias binding 2 FQ’s Bosal fusible fleece interfacing Gutermann thread Dried lavender or rose petals Haberdashery items Quilter’s ruler Rotary cutter/scissors Iron Cutting mat Basic sewing supplies Lets get sewing… Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of your 2 chosen winter berry fabrics. Download and print the two bunting templates, cut them out. Using a fabric marker, draw around the large bunting 5 times on each piece of winter berry fabric – choose carefully where you cut them – this is called fussy cutting. Match up two of each of the different fabric bunting flags and sew 1/8” from raw edge along the curved edges. (to make it easier you can sew ¼” from raw edge then trim) Cut twelve 4” squares from the cream fabric, draw around the small template on each square, lay two pieces RST and sew along the curved lines. (do not sew across the top) Now for the fun part – choose you preferred dried flowers and half fill each cream bunting flag pocket. I chose to fill 2 with lavender and 4 with rose petals. Sew across the top to seal in the dried flowers. Use pinking shears to trim away excess fabric or curved rotary cutter blade. The flags are now ready to be joined together, pin a scented cream flag between each Winter berry flag, as shown in photos below. These scented bunting flags would make a lovely Mother’s Day gift, or save this pattern and fill your bunting flags with a Christmas scent ready for December. To see more from Michelle you can visit her website creativeblondegifts.com or follow her on Instagram @michelle_creativeblonde or Facebook @creativeblonde66. Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Tammy Silver- @tammy_silver Hello beautiful people! That time of the year has finally come around again, yes, I’m talking about Valentine’s Day. I could not pass up the opportunity to sew myself something new. Self-care is after all my favourite type of love. I’ve been in need of pyjamas for a while. Usually, I just throw on whatever and call it a night. This cherry print fabric was perfect for the sewing project I had in mind. Step 1 I’m using a self-drafted pattern for both my PJ shorts and top. If you’re looking start your self-drafting journey, try tracing a pattern from your ready-to-wear clothes or hack a sewing pattern you already have at home. Step 2 I cut out my pattern pieces on the fold and overlock the raw edges. Step 3 I pin my pockets, placing them right sides together to the front and back of my trouser pieces. Sewing along the straight edge. Step 4 I place my front and back trouser pieces together and sew along the curve of the pockets. I left an opening of 5” so my hand can comfortably fit inside. Step 5 Time to attach the two trouser legs together. I do this by placing one trouser leg inside the other, right sides together and sewing along the crotch seam. Step 6 Now unto my favourite part, which is of course the piping. I’ve opted for red, to give the shorts a pop of colour. I finish my trousers by adding cuffs to each leg and adding elastic to the waist. Step 7 Onto my PJ top; I sewed darts to the front which in hindsight I should have left out. The top is oversized so doesn’t actually need shaping around the bust area. Step 8 I sew the side seams. Then I cut a long strip of fabric that is double the length of my top hem. I sew the gathers unto the bottom of my top, right sides together. Step 9 Last but not least I finished off my top by adding piping to the neckline and sewing my straps. Satisfying projects are honestly the best. The PJs are comfortable and easy to wear. I’m wishing you all a great Valentine’s Day however you’re spending it! I’ll most likely be lazing around my house in my newly made PJs. To see more from Tammy follow her blog tammysilver.com or follow her on Instagram @tammy_silver . Made by Tammy Silver for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Written by Jess Unsworth (Credit: ILC Dover, LP) Space travel isn't easy- an obvious statement to make, but what isn't always thought about is an activity far older than space travel. An activity that without, we wouldn't have made it through the earth's atmosphere. That is of course; sewing. Now, travel back to 1962, The United States have announced they'll be popping to the moon and a competition is held for who will make the Astronaut suits. ILC had already had its engineers (whom were all strictly male) working on fully functioning space suits since 1955. These engineers had perfected the science behind these space suits, but ALAS they could not make their visions a reality as sewing was merely a WOMANS job. Enter the females; the factory doors fly open, a bright light shines through, the women of Dover, Delaware immerse in formation through a cloud of smoke- this is how I like to think this happened and I wish not to be told otherwise. Yes, that is right a group of extremely talented women were the ones to machine and hand sew the Apollo space suits. (Image from space.com) Having been taught the sewing trade by their mothers, these seamstresses were taken on by NASA and put through various training such as: how to read blueprints, working with engineers and precision sewing. After completing these training sessions, they headed to the sewing machines to bring these blue prints to life. Each person was assigned to a different section of the suits, some of the sewing was so intricate that the only way to get it accurate was to do it by hand. The women had to make various seam samples which were then sent to labs and tested until they tore, whole days were spent making these samples for them to just be destroyed. They didn't mind though as they knew what they were creating was a matter of life or death for the men who were to wear these suits. Once completed the suits were sent to a local hospital where they went through 2 x-rays to check there were no pins etc. left inside of the suits. Jeanne Wilson a seamstress at ILC recalls "There were nights we'd go home, worry and think, ‘Oh my God, did I leave a pin in it?’ And you would lose a little bit of sleep at night. Sometimes you actually broke down and cried – I know I did.”. To this day the basic premise of space suits hasn't changed, and they are still hand stitched in the hard to reach places, or where the fabric is simply too thick for a machine. So next time you watch Jeff Bezos jetting off to space just remember, it wouldn't be possible without the ladies of NASA sewing the suits (it also wouldn't be possible without his millions of dollars, but that isn't quite the wholesome story I wanted to write about). If you want to find out more about the seamstresses of NASA I recommend listening to the documentary podcast 'Hey Sew Sisters' available on BBC. Written by Jess Unsworth for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Sally Boylett Disclaimer!! These pouches are really addictive once you start making them!! I hope you love making them as much as I do. I have about 8 now, and it’s still not enough! They are very simple to make, so easy to adapt to whatever size or shape you need and are REALLY useful for embroidery hoops, English paper piecing projects, small foundation paper piecing pattern pieces etc. I have one in my car with me, with a project inside for whenever I’m going to have to wait (watching the kids playing football, at the doctors’ surgery for example) so that I can use that time to craft! Here’s how to make them : Measurements: Large pouch : 14” wide x 14” tall Small pouch : 11½” wide x 11½” (The pouches can be made to the size you want) You will need Wadding cut to the 1” bigger than the size pouch you want. Fabric – for the front and for the top and bottom of the zippers. Fabric for the back which should be cut to the same size as your wadding. Fabric – for the binding. Because they are all straight sides, this does not need to be on the bias, so you can use the same fabric as you are using for your pouch, cut into 2.5” strips and joined together (as shown). Zipper – at least 2” longer than the width of your wadding Vinyl – cut to approx. 3” – 4” shorter than your wadding height – but I suggest cutting this once you’ve made your front/back panel. For both of my pouches, I decided that I wanted to use bits of all the fabrics I had from the co-ordinating range of Craft Cotton Co fabrics. These ones are Freehand Bird. 1. Iron your fabric – I always use starch when ironing fabric which I’m going to cut. I find it gives a crisper finish (and it’s the way my Nan taught me, and who wouldn’t do what their Nan teaches them!). 2. I then cut my fabric into 2½ “ strips x WOF (width of fabric) I cut one strip from each fabric I had (5 different patterns). 3. I then cut the strips into 2½” squares and laid them out on the table how in the order I wanted them. 4. I sewed the squares together using a scant ¼” seam into rows. 5. On each row, I made sure to press the seams in opposite direction to the previous row (i.e top row seams to the left, second row seams to the right, third row to the left and so on). This helps the rows to “nest” together when you sew them. 6. I clip the rows together, nesting the seams – they feel like they slot together. This means that you should end up with straight squares and not wonky lines. (However, this is timely moment to remind you there is no such thing as the Quilt Police (!) so if your seams don’t match exactly, does it really matter!) Mine have mostly lined up, but a few are a couple of mm’s off – and I’m honestly not going to lose any sleep over it. 7. Continue sewing the rows together until you have your quilted piece. 8. As you can see on the back of this piece – the seams going in alternate directions helps it to lay flat. 9. Put the patchwork fabric onto your wadding – there should be excess wadding around the edges to allow for the movement of the fabric as you are quilting it, and also because you are going to put the backing fabric on at the same time, (which is cut the same size as your wadding) to definitely line up with the front piece. 10. You are quilting your front and back panels at the same time. 11. Start quilting your panel however you like. On the smaller one of mine, I sewed along every seam, ¼” in, creating a chequered quilting effect. On the larger one, I quilted diagonally, corner to corner and measured over 2½” for the next row of quilting. 12. Trim up the panel, cutting off any excess wadding. 13. Then increase your stitch length (I did mine to 3.0) and sew 1/8” in from the edge. This is called stay stitch and it will ensure that the edge of your fabric do not roll. Preparing the Zip: 1. Do not be worried about this at all. I promise it’s very easy. This is why we have a longer zip than the width of our panel. 2. Cut your zip covering fabric at 3 ½” wide by the length of your zip (For the eagle eyed amongst you, you’ll see that mine is slightly narrower – I should have cut it wider, but for some reason didn’t!). 3. Mark the centre of one strip of your fabric and the centre of your zip. I do this by folding in half and pushing a pin in (as per photo). 4. Line up the fabric and zip with the right side of the fabric facing down, and your zipper pull to the left. Pin/clip in place. 5. Using a zipper foot, sew the zipper down one side – moving the pull to start and then when you get close to the puller, with your needle in the down position, lift your foot up and slide the zipper pull to the top. This helps to get straight seams on the zip. 6. Iron the zip on the front – then top stitch along the very edge of the fabric to secure. The second part of the zipper is done slightly differently. 1. Get your other piece of fabric, and fold the long edges in a very scant ¼” along both sides. 2. Fold this piece in half and place the vinyl into this piece, ensuring that the top of the vinyl is at the top of the fabric, in the crease. Clip in place. NB. Do NOT use pins on the vinyl! It will make holes and they will not go away (I’ve placed tissue behind this, just to show this step clearly). 3. Using a non-stick foot (if you have one) or your zipper foot, carefully sew along the bottom edge of the fabric, thereby securing it to the vinyl. NOTE: as you can see, my vinyl is very wavy – please do NOT be tempted to iron it! It will melt and create one heck of a mess on your ironing board and the soleplate of your iron! It will flatten out, in the final part of the project. 4. Using the same method as above, get your zipper and sew it to the fabric/vinyl panel. 5. Now place the zipper/vinyl panel onto your quilted panel with the top of the fabric/zip lined up to the top of the quilted panel. NOTE: as you can see, my zipper fabric and the vinyl is much bigger than the quilted panel. This is done on purpose so that I can cut off the excess of both to get a much better fit. 6. Clip (do not pin) all the way around your panel as best you can. If you can only do it at the top and on one side, that’s fine (mine is done only on two sides). Flip the panel over, press down on it using your hands and trim up the excess. Then clip the rest of the way round. 7. Again using a non-stick foot (or by putting a very thing piece of tissue paper over the top of the vinyl) sew all the way around the pouch. I used a ¼” seam. You will find that the vinyl moves and seems to grow bigger, all I do is very firmly push the vinyl flat as I am sewing it – even if it goes over the edge of the panel, to ensure it’s flat. Remember at the beginning I said my vinyl was wavy – it’s at this stage, sewing it on to the quilted panel, that we make it as flat as we can. 8. Your pouch is nearly finished. Binding As the project pouch is square, it only has straight sides. Therefore it is not necessary to use bias binding. We can use binding which we cut from our fabric. Please note, that there loads and loads of ways of attaching binding. I prefer to machine sew mine on the front of the pouch and then hand sew it at the back. But if you want to machine sew it both sides, of course, that’s perfectly fine too. (Again, it’s my Nan …!) Measure around all 4 edges of your finished pouch. This is important as you need to know what length of binding you will need. When you have measured it (mine were : large 60” and small 48”) you need to add a minimum of 10” of fabric. I made mine at 70” and 58” long. I always cut mine at 2½” wide by the WOF (width of fabric).Again, because we are only sewing it on to straight edges, we can literally sew the strips together by placing right sides together and using a ¼” seam, sewing them together (it does not need to be done diagonally). I do not iron my binding. This was a trick I learned from a tutorial by Annie Unrein, who learned it from a student of hers! If you iron it, and then it goes wonky as you’re sewing it on, you will always see it’s wonky because of the ironed in crease in the fabric! So I just don’t bother now – and it always “Looks” perfect!! (It probably isn’t … but it looks it!). I fold my binding in half (not ironed) and put it at the bottom middle of the pouch. I leave about an 8” tail and begin sewing at a scant ¼” around. Just before I get to the corner, (about ¼” before) I stop, sew a couple of back stitches and cut my thread. I then remove my project from the machine and fold the long length of remaining binding up at to 12 o’clock (the right hand edge of the binding is in line with the right hand edge of the quilted pouch)_ and finger press the resulting diagonal line (ensuring the end of the line of fabric, is directly into the corner of the pouch) You now have a little triangle inside. I then put my thumb on to that triangle and fold the long length of binding down, to 6 o’clock, making sure that the top of the binding stays directly parallel with the top of the quilted pouch and that the triangle is still in place inside. Doing this gives you perfect mitred corners. I begin sewing again at the top of the binding and sew all the way to a ¼” before the next corner and repeat this until the final side. Once you have done the 4th corner, sew your binding about 2” along and then back stitch. You will have two long tails of binding fabric, and a big gap in the middle. Line the right hand tail up to a line on your cutting mat and trim it. Then take the left hand tail and place it over the top of the right hand tail. Measure and draw a line ¼” to the left of the previously cut tail (so that there is an overlap). Check this twice, because if you cut at the wrong place, your binding will be too short. Once you are sure you have the overlap and the left tail is overlapping the right tail, cut it. You are then going to place right sides of the binding together and sew the edge (like you did when joining your binding strips) to make a continuous strip. Once the two ends are joined, fold it back and it will almost “snap” to fit the binding. Then you can either do as I do, which is hand sew the binding on the back – or you could machine sew it from the front. (I never find the machine look is anywhere as good as the hand sewn look). And that’s it! You’re done. Enjoy and I hope you make many, many more. To see more from Sally follow her on Instagram @bsallyb. Made by Sally Boylett for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.