Search Results

Project by Katie at The Fabric Squirrel The large star is the final block and will be in the centre of your quilt. It uses simple techniques but is effective. Seam Allowance: ¼” Unfinished size: 12½" Square Finished size (when sewn into your quilt): 12" x 12" CUTTING Width x Height (cut one unless otherwise stated) Green 1 - 4 ¼” Square 4 – 2” Squares Baubles 4 - 2 5/8” 4 – 3 ½” Squares 1 – 7 ½ Squares Blue 3 ½” Square 4 – 4 1/8” Here is a little video so you can see how it comes together: INSTRUCTIONS 1. You need four large flying geese. We will use the no waste method. Get your large white square and 2 blue small ones. Make a line diagonally from one corner to the other. Sew a ¼” line either side of the line. Cut down the line and press both sides open. 2. Get another one of the blue squares and draw another diagonal line. Place it in the corner of the white square and sew either side of the line. Cut and press open. Repeat on the other side. Trim to 3 ½” x 6 ½”. 3. Repeat steps one and two with the small white squares and larger green square. Trim to 2” x 3 ½”. 4. Piece the the smaller star first with the flying geese, green squares and blue square. 5. Sew your rows together. 6. Then sew your three rows together. Your large star is complete! I also think this would make a beautiful matching cushion. This is block number 9 in my Christmas Block Along. @thefabricsquirrel thefabricsquirrel.com

Project by Paula Milner, The Crafty Lass Totally tropical fabrics to make fun table mats ready to adorn your table! Ingredients: Fabric Wadding Thread Tools: Tape Measure Fabric scissors Sewing machine Pins & Needle Iron and ironing board Method: 1. Choose your fabrics. Select which fabrics you would like! These are a fine cotton fabric but, you could use any style or weight of fabric that you wanted to use. I have chosen bright plain fabrics to contrast the front patterns, but you could of course do coordinating if you would like! Press, if required. 2. Measure For each table mat you will need 3 pieces of fabric 15cm x 30cm for the front, and 1 piece 42cm x 30cm for the back. You will also need 1 piece of wadding cutting 42cm x 30cm. 3. Sew – Front Place two of your 15 x 30cm pieces, right sides together and using a simple running stitch and a 1cm seam allowance, sew down the longer length. Place the 3rd piece of 15cm x 30cm on to this piece now constructed piece and also sew again down the longer length so you have 3 panels sewn together in a row. I have chosen to have the same fabric at either edge, and a contrast stripe down the middle. 4. Construct Lay your 3 panel front piece, right side up, followed by your back piece, and then a piece of the wadding. Using a 0.5 seam allowance, sew all the way around the edge, leaving a gap for turning out. Snip off the very edge of the corners which will help with turning out. 5. Turn Out Turn out and press. 6. Final Sew Using a 1cm seam allowance sew all the way around the edge, using a plain or decorative stitch if you would like! Secure your threads. Repeat with as many table mats as you would like, in either coordinating or contrasting colours and patterns. Et voila! Tropical Metallic Table Mat… Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Nicola at Bobbin Cottage Bodkin You will need Fat Quarter Sets & Fusible Foam all available from The Craft Cotton Co You will need 21 x 7’’ Squares 6 For The Pole (Red Glitter Fabric) 9 For The Twist (Cream holly fabric) 6 For the background (Green holly fabric) Step 1 R/S together sew 6 Green Holly and 6 Cream Holly squares together, all the way round with a ¼’’ seam. Step 2 R/S together sew 3 Cream Holly and 3 Red Glitter squares together, all the way round with a ¼’’ seam. Step 3 Use your ruler and from corner to corner at the stitched seam cut both ways. Step 4 Open out and iron the seam, light side to dark side, Snip off the ‘‘Dog Ears” . Step 5 Now place the squares to create this pattern. Step 6 Take the first block of 6, sew the top 3 together, the bottom 3 together then sew the two sets of 3’s. Step 7 Now sew the 6 blocks of 6 together. Step 8 For the border I cut the length of the Fat Quarter into 8cm strips. Step 9 Join them together to match the length of the runner, put 2 strips R/S to R/S as below and sew down where the corners join. Snip away the excess open up the strip and iron. Step 10 Sew the border down each of the long sides first, repeat for the two short sides. Press flat. Step 11 I used Bosal In-R-Form Single Sided Fusible Foam Stabilizer on the reverse of the runner. Step 12 Next I pinned a plain backing on top of the Fusible Foam on the reverse of the runner. I then sewed all around the inner section to secure all the fabrics. (You could create a quilting pattern of your choice, as little or as much as you wish). Step 13 Trim edges to neaten then add the bias binding to finish off. Open the binding out and place R/S to R/S on the front of the runner. Start in the middle of one of the sides, using the crease line as a sew guide stitch all the way until you come to a corner. See photos below for neatening corners. Step 14 Once you have sewn all around, pin or clip to hold the binding down. I always hand sew on the reverse so that you don’t see the stitches from the front. Step 15 Hand stitch the binding on the reverse of the runner. Ta Da! All finished! I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and it’s inspired you to have a go at making your own. Please share your makes with me on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin Nicky x Made by Nicky Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #seasonal #christmas #tablerunner #fatquarter #freesewingtutorial

Project by Katie at The Fabric Squirrel Another nice easy block, the stocking. Another one you could have lots of fun with fabric combinations. I have done one in blue and one in grey. I made a few before I was happy with the proportions, so I used a spare on the reverse of my quilt. Seam Allowance: ¼” Unfinished size: 10" x 15½" Finished size (when sewn into your quilt): 9½” x 15” CUTTING Width x Height (cut one unless otherwise stated) White Background 2¾" x 11" 3½” Square 2¾" Square Blue 7¼" x 3¾" Grey 7¼" x 12" 2¾" x 7" Here's a video to see how it comes together: INSTRUCTIONS 1. Add an easy triangle to the bottom right corner of the large grey piece with the 3½” square. Trim and press open. 2. Now you need your remaining grey and white pieces. Place the square at the bottom and the lager white piece at a right angle with the top of the grey piece. Sew at the angels as shown in the picture below. Draw your line first to help with accuracy. 3. Trim and press open. 4. Sew the blue cuff to the top of the main stocking. 5. Sew your two pieces together. Your stocking is complete! Remember, you need two for your quilt and then just one more week of blocks before you start putting it all together. This is block number 8 in my Christmas Block Along. @thefabricsquirrel thefabricsquirrel.com

Project by Sarah at SJStitchery A quilted butterfly wall hanging complete with your own flubberbies! Using the new Enchanted Wings fabric by Beth Salt. Finished size of panel – Approx. 23 x 13 inches You will need Selection of 3 fabrics for the blocks and sashing ( Half a metre of each) Fabric for backing and bias (1metre) Batting In R Form by Bosal (for the butterfly details – optional) Scissors/Thread/Needle/Pins/Rotary cutter and Ruler METHOD This quilted Wall Hanging is made up of 3 butterfly blocks which are then sewn together into a panel and edged with simple sashing. 1. Firstly, you will need to make 5 butterfly patches (one large and 4 small). Choose the two fabrics you are going to use – ideally a floral one for the butterflies and a plain for the background). For the one larger block (8 inches when trimmed) CUT; 5 inch squares - One in plain/One in floral 2 ½ inch squares - Three in plain/ Five in floral For each of the four smaller blocks (4 inches when trimmed) CUT 3 inch squares - One in plain/One in Floral 1 ½ inch squares - Three in plain/Five in floral 2. When all your pieces have been cut for one block, place the two large squares (right sides together) and three of the small squares (right sides together). This will leave two of the floral squares remaining, pop these to one side. 3. Take a pair of squares and on one of the wrong sides of the fabric, draw a diagonal line. 4. Stitch a line either side of the diagonal and then cut up the middle line to form 2 half squares triangles. Repeat for all square pairs. 5. Press all of the seams open with an iron. 6. At this stage, I also trimmed my two remaining floral squares to the same size as my half square triangle pieces (1 ¼ inches square). 7. Lay all your pieces out in the format as shown below and stitch together. 8. Press all pieces with an iron. 9. Trim your block with a rotary cutter and ruler to your finished size. I trimmed mine to a 4 inch square block (or the larger one to an 8 inch square block). 10. Join the two 4 inch blocks together, leaving 3 complete blocks in total for your panel. 10. Your three blocks are now complete, you should have one 8 inch block and two pairs of 4 inch blocks. To separate the blocks, I chose another floral fabric and cut lengths on 1 ½ inch sashing. 11. Attach the sashing to the panels and join all of your blocks together to make one oblong panel as shown. I have also added a contrast sashing to the sides of my panel for extra effect. 12. Press all pieces with an iron. Your top panel is now complete. 13. Choose a backing fabric and batting for your wall hanging. 14. Quilt as preferred. 15. When your quilting is finished, trim the excess fabric and batting away and neaten any loose threads. 16. Make a quilt binding using 2 ½ inch strips of fabric for make a bias binding. 17. Sew one edge of the binding to the front of the quilted panel and fold the other edge over the back of the panel and slip stitch in place. Your quilted panel is now complete. I have added extra detail to my wall hanging by cutting out the butterflies from one of my floral fabrics. I have ironed the butterfly motif onto a piece of In R Form by Bosal (and a backing fabric on the other side). I then cut out the butterfly, zig-zag stitched around the edges and sewed a selection of the butterflies onto my wall hanging. To see more from Sarah, visit her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Juliet Hilgendorf Juliet uses the New Look 6217 pattern. My name is Juliet Hilgendorf, I have been sewing for over 13 years. My passion is creating anything out of fabric. I started out with dressmaking, but now my passions has spilled over into patchwork, and quilting using rulers. I am also learning how to appliqué. Plus I’m also trying my hand at hand embroidery. I hope you enjoy the video and please subscribe to my channel. Youtube channel

Project by Sarah at SJStitchery A pretty winter quilt project using a Double Wrench Pattern. Quilt size 42x42 inches You will need; Light Tone Fabric – 0.5m Mid Tone Fabric – 0.5m Dark Tone Fabric – 0.5m 1.5m fabric for quilt backing Quilt batting of your choice (I used Bosal Acadia Autumn 80/20) Rotary cutter and Ruler Quilting Safety Pins/Thread/Needle METHOD 1. Select three fabrics you would like to use for your blocks. You are going to use a light tone, mid tone and dark tone range of cottons. 2. You will be starting your quilt design with a collection of 36 x 6 inch blocks, which will eventually be sewn into blocks of 4 to make nine 11.5 inch blocks. 3. Decide whether you want all your blocks to look exactly the same. I decided to mix my patterns, so I made 12 blocks of my 3 colour ways but you could just make all 36 blocks exactly the same if you wish. 4. When you have decided your colour choice, using a ruler and rotary cutter, cut the following pieces from your fabric selection; FABRIC A (light) – 5 x 1.5 inch squares 2 x 2 7/8 inch squares FABRIC B (mid) - 2 x 2 7/8 inch squares FABRIC C (dark) – 4 x 1.5 inch square 5. When you have cut the pieces for your block, take two of the 2 7/8 inch squares. Place Fabric A and Fabric B right sides together and mark a line diagonally on the back of one of the squares. Repeat this for the other pair of 2 7/8 inch squares. 6. Sew down either side of the diagonal line and then carefully cut along the line to make two half square triangles. 7. Press with an iron. 8. Sew two pairs x 1.5 inch squares together in pairs alternating Fabric A and Fabric B. 9. Sew the remaining 5 x 1.5 inch squares into a strip. Press with an iron. 10. Start sewing the block together by placing a two square strip between each of the half square triangles as shown, keeping pattern direction correct. Make both the top and bottom of the block in this way. 11. Sew the 5 square strip between the middle of the 2 blocks, ensuring to line up the seams as you go. 12. Trim away all excess threads and press with an iron, making sure that all seams are as flat as possible. You now have a Double Wrench quilt square. 13. Using a rotary cutter, trim you finished block to a neat 6 inch square. 14. Repeat this process to make as many blocks as you like for your quilt. Have a play around with the different colour ways - it is quite surprising how the pattern changes, depending on the colours and patterns used. 15. Take 4 blocks of the same pattern and stitch them together into one large 11.5 inch block. Press with an iron. 16. Repeat this process with all of your sets of 4 blocks – I made 9 11.5 inch blocks. 17. To outline the block I have used a neutral colour fabric. Cut 4 1.25 inch wide strips of fabric. With right sides together sew along the edges of the block - try to ensure all of the vertical and horizontal strips are placed in exactly the same way on each side of the patch, as shown below. 18. Press seams flat. 19. Repeat for all 9 blocks. 20. When you have completed this process lay out all of your blocks on a flat surface. Decide your pattern layout for your quilt. It is a good idea to take a photo at this stage - this means you can see your quilt at a different angle but also you have a reference photograph to refer to when you are constructing your quilt. 21. Using 0.25 seam allowance, sew all your quilt blocks together to complete your quilt top. I made 3 panels of 3 11.5 inch blocks for my quilt pattern. 22. Your quilt is ready for basting. Decide on your quilt batting. I used a Bosal Acadia Autumn 80/20. 23. Smooth your quilt top over the batting, taking time to ensure the layers are completely flat and baste or pin into place. 24. Complete the same process with the quilt backing. You should now have your 3 layers of quilt. 25. Quilt in place as you like. 26. When you have completed quilting your quilt, trim the edges of the quilt and remove an excess batting or backing fabric. 27. Decide on the edging you want for your quilt. 28. Cut length long strips of 2.25 inch wide fabric. Sew strips together and press with an iron and fold to make a bias binding. 29. Sew one fold of the bias binding to the front edges of the quilt, mitring the corners as you go. 30. Fold the bias binding over the edge of the quilt and slip stitch into place. 31. Remove any excess threads and tie any loose ends that are remaining. Your quilt is now complete. To see more from Sarah, visit her blog sjstitchery.com and Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Katie at The Fabric Squirrel The cracker block is a little bit fiddly but reasonably simple. It took me quite a few attempts to get this one how I wanted it but, I am quite happy with the finish. For that reason, I am a little short on pictures for this block so, hopefully the video will help you get the gist of it. I have used the green fabric, but you could have great fun with different fabric on this block. You need two in total. Seam Allowance: ¼” Unfinished size: 20" x 8" Finished size (when sewn into your quilt): 19½” x 7½” CUTTING Width x Height (cut one unless otherwise stated) White 3 - 3” squares 4 - 1 ½” x 2” Green 3 x 3” Squares 2 x 1 ¾” x 8” 2 x 2” x 8” 7” x 8” Blue 2 x 1 ½” x 8” 2 x 1 ½” x 2” Here is a little video so you can see how it comes together: INSTRUCTIONS 1. Get your three 3" squares in white and green. Place them right sides together and sew ¼” around all 4 sides. 2. Make two straight cuts diagonally across the square to make four squares. Trim the squares down to 1 ¾”. Repeat this twice more so you have 12 squares in total. 3. Arrange six of the squares like this to make the end of your cracker and sew them together. Repeat with the remaining 6. 4. Sew a white 1 ½” x 2” to each end of the blue 1 ½” x 2” pieces. 5. Now you just have to sew each row together to make your cracker. 6. Your cracker is done! Remember you will need two for your finished quilt. This is block number 7 in my Christmas Block Along. @thefabricsquirrel thefabricsquirrel.com

Project by Helen Bowes We all have that something special from someone special we want to be able to treasure forever. It might be your child’s first baby outfits, first Christmas outfits, the clothes of a relative who has passed away, whatever it may be. Now, you can create something to treasure and hug as I guide you through how to make a memory bear. You will need · Pattern - download here · Items of clothing / materials · Light weight interfacing (to be used if the clothes have any stretch to them) · Cutting mat and cutter / scissors · Ruler, mark making device · Clips / Pins · Sewing machine and thread – if using metallic thread, you will need to use metallic needle in your sewing machine · Toy Stuffing · Buttons · Embroidery thread Method Step 1: Cut out pattern pieces You will need to cut out the following pattern pieces: · Front body – cut one, cut one reversed · Back body – cut one, cut one reversed · Outer arm – cut one, cut one reversed · Inner arm – cut one, cut one reversed · Paw pad – cut two · Leg – cut two, cut two reversed · Food pad – cut two · Ear – cut four · Head side – cut one, cut one reversed · Head gusset – cut one Step 2: Make the body Cut out your two front pieces and lie them on top of each other right sides facing. Sew from point A to point B with a 3/8th inch seam allowance. Next cut out your back pieces and lie them together, right sides facing. Keeping to a 3/8th inch seam allowance, sew from point A to point D and then from point E to B. Don’t sew between points D and E; you need this gap to be able to turn the body the right way round prior to stuffing. When sewing make sure you back stitch at the start and end of your sewing line so it does not come undone. Lie your front and back pieces on top of each other with right sides facing, matching up points A and B on both pieces. Pin all the way round the pieces and sew with a 3/8th inch seam allowance. Turn the right way round through the opening you have left and press the raw edges of this opening flat. Stuff the body using toy stuffing. At this point, you could put a little note or an item of important into the bear so it is there for as long as the bear is. Once stuffed, use slip stitch or ladder stitch to close the opening. Step 3: Make the arms Cut out your outer arm, inner arm and paw pads from your material. Place the paw pad onto the inner arm right sides facing so marks H line up. The paw pad material should be over the top of the inner arm material. Sew along a line joining up the H marks using a 3/8th inch seam. Press the seam flat. Next place this joined piece on top of the outer arm fabric with right sides facing. Pin together and remove any excess fabric. Sew around the arm with a 3/8th inch seam allowance, leaving a hole at the top of the arm. Turn the arm the right way round through the hole, press the edges of the opening inwards and stuff. Once you’ve filled the arm with stuffing, slip stitch or ladder stitch the hole together. Step 4: Make the legs Cut out the leg pieces as directed above. Line up points I, J and K on a normal and reversed leg piece and pin together with right sides facing. Next take the foot pad and place this so marks J and K line up with points J and K on the leg pieces. Pin all the way round from the foot pad side and then repeat pinning from the leg side. It will end up looking like a very spikey hedgehog but this number of pins means that the foot pad won’t move as you sew. Sew the seams of the legs first with a 3/8th inch seam leaving a 3cm gap at the top of the leg. Once these are sewn, sew round the foot pad. Turn the leg the right way round and stuff. Sew the opening closed using a ladder or slip stitch. Repeat the whole process to make the second leg. Step 5: Make the head Cut out pieces as directed. With the two pieces that will form the front of each ear you need to make a pleat. To do this mark out the triangle and fold the piece in half right sides together, so points Y meet up. The aim is to sew from point X to point Y in a straight line. When you open the ear piece, you will have a pleat on the right side of the fabric. To complete the ears, lay the back of the ear fabric on top of the front pieces with right sides together. Sew around the curve from points M to N leaving the bottom edge open. Turn the ears the right way round and stuff with a little toy stuffing. Hand stitch closed and then do a running stitch along the length of the bottom of the ear. Now pull gently along this stitch to draw the bottom two corners (points M and N) together. Lie the two head side pieces down, one on top of the other right sides together. Pin from point L to P. Next fit the head gusset piece, wrong side facing up. Do this by matching up an O on each side of the gusset with an O on each of the two head pieces. Pin along one side all the way from point O to point L. Where the gusset goes past the gap between M and N on the head side piece, bring M and N together so they meet and pin. Then pin down the other side. Leave O to P open as you will turn the head the right way round and stuff through this hole. Sew along all the margins with a 3/8th inch seam. With the head turned the right way round you can stitch the ears onto the head. Press open the openings left at point Z. Hand stitch the ear into this gap with seams concealed inside the bear. Once happy, stuff the head. Close the hole by hand stitching. The final stage is to add the button nose and eyes. The nose button is placed at point L. The eye buttons position half way between the ear and the nose along the seam line between side and gusset pieces. To complete the face, use embroidery thread to create a line from the nose downwards and a smile. Step 6: Assemble the bear Start by stitching the head onto the body. To attach the arms and legs use buttons as your join. Work out where you want the join to be and then stitch on a button using embroidery thread. After your first couple of stitches attaching the button, put your needle all the way through the arm or leg and then sew onto the body and back up through the limb and button. Keep repeating this until the limb is secure. Do all limbs in the same manner. Final stage is to add some ribbon as a bow and your memory bear is complete. Made by Helen Bowes for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Debbie Shore This Christmas Peter Rabbit panel can be made up into a number of festive decorations - an advent calendar, gift bags, cushions or a quilt. Here, Debbie has made this panel into an advent calendar! Materials: Peter Rabbit Panel 25” x 44” white fabric 27” x 46” backing fabric [White again if you wish] 26” x 45” wadding 22” of ½” dowelling 18” ribbon 125” of 1” bias binding Basting spray [505] Method: 1. Cut out your panel pieces, fold over the tops of the small squares to the edge of the outline and sew, then fold the remaining three sides under and press. 2. Cut a strip of white fabric measuring 25” x 5” and two pieces each measuring 10” x 5”. Sew the smaller strips to each side of the main panel piece, trim if necessary. Sew the long piece to the top of the panel. Sew the remaining white piece to the bottom of the panel. Place over the wadding and adhere with basting spray. Arrange the pockets in rows of four and sew around the bottom three sides. 3. Cut a 4” x 20 strip of backing fabric. Fold the short ends over twice by ¼” and sew. Fold the long edges right sides together and sew to make a tube. Turn the right side out, sew to the top of the backing fabric, 1” from the top. Place the panel over the backing fabric, adhere with basting spray, trim all sides to make square. Apply bias binding all around. Thread the dowelling through the tube and tie the ribbon to each end. 4. Your panel is ready to fill with treats! debbieshoresewing.com Made by Debbie Shore for The Craft Cotton Company

Project by Stephanie Marsh Create your own festive fabric Advent Calendar with these adorable mini stockings that you can re-use each year! You will need: 5 Christmas fat quarters 0.5m white cotton 0.5m sheeting or any other basic cotton Matching thread contrasting thread 4m webbing tape (or cord) 25 small pegs (optional) Christmas Stocking template - download here Cut Out: 50 stockings from the fat quarters (making sure you have pairs) 50 stockings in the sheeting fabric (cut these out once you embroidered the numbers) ** 50 square 4.25 inches in the white cotton Instructions: 1. Take the white cotton and using an erasable pen mark out the squares for above **. On 25 of them embroider the numbers one to twenty-five on them as shown in the picture below. I drew a line halfway through 25 of the squares and in the middle of the top half I embroidered the numbers (you may wish to put a small piece of interfacing on the back of the section to be embroidered before you embroider to add stability). When you put the stockings together they may seem like they are upside down, but they are on the inside until you turn the cuff over. If your machine doesn’t embroider numbers you can do this by hand or use some stick on numbers). 2. Trim the tread ends and cut out the squares, 25 embroidered and 25 plain. 3. Take your embroidered squares and sew a patterned stocking onto the edge furthest away from the embroidered number and sew a sheeting stocking onto the opposite side. Repeat with the using the plain square in the middle, but remember the stocking is to face the other way, so you have a mirror image, see below. 4. Press the seam allowances in the embroidered stocking top towards the stocking and on the plain towards the cuff. This will make it easier to match the cuffs when putting together. 5. With right sides together and cuffs matching stitch around the edges, using a 0.25” seam allowance, leave a gap on the stocking lining of an inch and a half for turning. 6. Clip the seam allowance all around or use pinking sheers trim the seam allowance apart from the gap left for turning. 7. Turn right sides out, press the seams and pin gap closed. 8. Overstitch the gap closed. 9. Now tuck the stocking lining inside the stocking outer, with the cuff folded in half. The number will be on the inside, upside down at the minute. Turn the cuff half way over to reveal the number. 10. Using drawing pins pin the webbing tape to the wall in any position you want and using the small pegs peg the stockings, in any random order, to the tape. Alternatively you can hand sew the in place for a more permanent fixing. Your advent calendar is complete! Fill with yummy treats and start to prepare for Christmas. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Katie at The Fabric Squirrel The small stars will be your corners of the quilt. In this tutorial I will show you how to make flying geese with no waste. You will need four of these blocks. Seam Allowance: ¼” Unfinished size: 8½" Square Finished size (when sewn into your quilt): 8" Square Here's a video to help: CUTTING Width x Height (cut one unless otherwise stated) White Background 5¼" Square 8 - 2½” Square Trees 4½” Square Blue 6 - 2 7/8" Squares INSTRUCTIONS 1. To make the centre first add easy triangles to the opposite corners of your tree square using two of your white squares. Trim and press. 2. Add two more squares to the remaining corners. Trim and press. 3. Now with your large white square, place two blue squares on opposite corners. Make a line from one corner to the other and sew ¼” each side of the line. Cut down the line and press them open. 4. Add another blue square to the corner of the white, as shown. Draw a line down the centre and sew a ¼” each side of the line. Cut down the line and press. Repeat on the other one. You should now have 4 flying geese. They should be 4½” x 2½” at this point, you may need to trim them to size. 5. Arrange your star as shown. Now just sew them together, rows first. You now have your first small star, just three more to go! @thefabricsquirrel thefabricsquirrel.com