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Project by Katie Done at The Fabric Squirrel I have seen a lot of dinosaur fabrics come through my craft room but this is easily my favourite. It is the latest Craft Cotton collaboration with the Natural History Museum and is called The Age of the Dinosaurs. There are 5 prints with realistic looking dinosaurs and their names on them. The colours are white, grey and green but with some hints of colours in the names. It is perfect for a 4 year old dinosaur fan so I used a few of the prints to create my little boy a wallet to keep his pocket money in. I added some felt teeth to make it extra roarsome. YOU WILL NEED · Dinosaur fat quarters · White Felt · Bosal Double Sided Fusible Foam · Sewing Machine with zipper foot · Iron and Ironing Board · Scissors · 8" Zip · 1m 1.5" binding · Popper or KAM snap METHOD 1. Cut fabric, the sizes are shown width x height. White - 6" x 9" Circes - 8" x 3" (fold in half and curve into the shape you prefer) x2 Green - 8" x 6" 2" Square Grey - 8" x 7" 8" x 2" x2 8" x 3.5" x2 8" x 9" Foam - 8" x 12" 2. Fold the small green piece of fabric over the end of the zip. Fold the edges in and top stitch into place. Repeat on the other side. 3. With the two 2" x 8"grey fabric pieces, sandwich and pin the long edges to the zip, right sides together and sew with your zipper foot on. 4. Repeat on the other side with the larger grey pieces. Now sew the opposite edges with right sides together. The zip will be enclosed inside. When this is done, turn it out and give it a press. See the picture below for reference. 5. Get your large white dinosaur material and place it face up. Now you need to layer up a few of the others. Fold the green and the grey in half, place the larger one on first with the edges lined up. Place the green one on top of that. On the opposite edge, put the zip compartment you have just made. Pin it all into place. Hopefully, the picture below will help. Cut some triangles out of felt to make the teeth and pin them along both edges. 6. Top stitch all the way around. 7. Now stitch the flap to the top edge. Press it flat. 8. For the front of the wallet, sew the other flap to the front piece. You could make this one piece if you prefer but I didn't want my dinosaur’s upside down on this bit, so I sewed it on separately. You should have a foam piece the same size. Trim it to form the curved flap. **If you don't have foam, you could apply some interfacing to the outside piece to add some strength and use wadding. I like the sturdiness and strength that the Bosal foam adds to bags and purses. 9. Layer up the outside piece, foam and inside pockets so everything is facing the right way. If you are using fusible foam, iron it into place. I have top stitched the grey pocket down at this point. It falls on the centre line so helps it close, but you could do this before you layer it up if you prefer the stitch line to be hidden. 10. You could make some bias binding or use some pre made. I have made my own using the 45-degree mark on my ruler to cut diagonally across some green fabric. Make 1m of 1.5" wide strips. Press them in half long ways. Fold one edge into the centre and press it again. 11. With the edge that is not pressed, sew it around the edge of your wallet. The rounded edge is why you need to cut the binding on the bias. It allows the fabric to be manipulated around the curves without puckering. Press the binding round to the other side and either top stitch or hand stitch into place. I have decided to hand stitch. 12. To finish just add a fastening of your choice. I have gone with a green KAM snap. I have made this with George in mind but with some swapping of fabrics and upgrading the fastening to something more grown up, this would be a great purse for young and old. If you give it a go, I would love to hear from you. To see more from Katie, visit her on Instagram @thefabricsquirrel Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Stephanie Marsh Create a vibrant and dynamic quilt using jelly roll strips. Used here is the Craft Cotton Co fabric roll Kyoto designed by Stuart Hillard. You will need: 1 jelly roll thread wadding (slightly larger than the finished size of the quilt) backing fabric (slightly larger than the finished size of the quilt) crochet thread, size 8 large eye needle ruler dinner knife Instructions: 1. Trim the selvedges off all the strips. 2. Use a ¼” seam allowance for all the quilt top. Start by sewing all the short edges together to make one continuous long strip of fabric. 3. Now take either end of the long strip and sew, right sides together along the long edge, cut the fold when near the end. Repeat this until you have the fabric the size you want. 4. Press all the seams to one side. 5. On a flat surface lay the backing fabric out, wrong side up. Lay the backing on top of that, then the quilt top on top, right sides up. You can use safety pins, or pins then tack all layers together to hold in place. 6. Now for some hand sewing. Take a length of you crochet thread, thread the large eye needle and knot one end. To make a neat knot hold the needle between your thumb and first finger, wrap the thread, from the longer tail around the needle twice, now pull the needle up, but gently hold onto the knot and pull tight. Trim the long end close to the knot. 7. Working from the wrong side do one running stitch then you need to pop the knot, which is giving it a gentle sharp tug so it comes through just the backing fabric, this can take a few attempts to get right, but it's worth persevering. Use your nail just to push the weave of the fabric back together. 8. Now from the right side, decide on a design. Take your ruler and knife and mark, a small section at a time, a sewing line, the knife creases the fabric enough for you to see where to sew. 9. Using a running stitch sew along this line. Continue along the quilt until you have completed your design. 10. Trim the quilt to the desired size. 11. I used the off cuts to bind around the quilt. Cut the off cuts to 2.5” wide and join to make a continuous strip. Press in half lengthways, wrong sides together. 12. Working from the right side of the quilt, start in the middle of one of the straight edges, stitch the strip, using a ½” seam allowance all the way around the quilt. Do not start right at the end of the biding. To do the mitred corners stop ½” from the corner with the needle down, lift the foot and pivot the quilt so you sew off the quilt exactly at the corner. 13. Now fold the binding strip back on itself, then fold down so the raw edges match the raw edges of the quilt. Sew the next edge from right off the quilt, making sure not to catch the fold of the binding strip from the corner. 14. Repeat all the way around the quilt. When you come to the other end of the binding fold over a small hem, facing upwards, lay the other end of the binding over the top and sew in place. 15. Press the binding around the raw edges enclosing them all. Overstitch in place. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Lesley Foster Perfect for keeping books safely in one place - no one will steal from this monster! Materials Cutest Little Monsters fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company Cushion pad 45x45cm Thread Needle Pins Scissors Thread Ruler Felt – black and white Instructions 1- For the front, take one of the fat quarters and cut so it is 45x45cm. 2- To make the book pocket take another fat quarter and fold it in half, next place it on top of the front piece at a slight angle, then cut to size. Next cut along the top edge. 3- To make the teeth take another fat quarter and cut out 3 pieces of fabric 10x12 cm, fold in half so it measure 10x6cm with right sides together and sew down each side leaving the bottom edge unsewn. Turn out the right way. 4- Take the book pocket pieces and place one down right side up, then take the three teeth and place so the raw edge of the teeth goes along the top raw edge of the pocket. Place the remaining pocket piece right side down on top and sew along the top edge to secure. Turn out the right way. 5- To make the hair, use the same coloured fabric that was used to make the book pocket and cut 3 pieces 5x12cm and 2 pieces 4x12cm. Fold these pieces right sides together so they measure 5x6cm and 4x6cm and sew down each side leaving the bottom edge unsewn. Turn out the right way. 6- Take the remaining 2 fat quarters and cut so you have 2 pieces 45x54cm, fold in half so you have two pieces 45x27cm. These are the two back pieces. 7- Take the front piece and place the pocket on top, next place the hair pieces along the top edge with the bottom raw edge of the hair pieces against the raw edge of the front cushion piece. Next place the two folded back pieces on top so the overlap in the middle. Sew around the edge to secure and turn out the right way. 8- Take the white felt and cut 2 circles 7cm in diameter. Then cut 2 circles from the black felt 4cm in diameter. Sew the black circle onto the white circle then sew the eyes onto the front of the cushion. Your reading cushion is complete! To see more from Lesley, visit her on Instagram @hookstitchsew Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Gill Rich Create a gorgeous hexie cushion to liven up your sofa. This cushion is really easy to make once you have made your template. What you need ● One pack of fat quarters I chose Botanical Elements available from Craft Cotton Co ● Polyester fibre filling ● Co-ordinating thread ● One large button ● Rotary Cutter and cutting mat ● Pins ● Thin cardboard, ruler and pencil Method First you need to make your template. Take your card and you need to draw an equilateral triangle with sides measuring 35cm. Cut out. Using your template, you need to cut out 12 triangles, 6 for each side. I used two of three different fat quarters for each side of the cushion. Arrange your triangles in the order in which you wish to sew them together. Take two triangles, stitch them together and then add the third. Repeat for the other half. Press seams to one side as you go. Once you have stitched two halves of the cushion, you need to stitch these together to make your top. Press. Place cushion top wrong side down on your batting and baste together, cut the wadding to fit the cushion top. Now you need to quilt it. I did ¼” straight lines along both sides of the seam. Now repeat the above for the other side of your cushion.. Once you have completed both sides of the cushion, place both pieces right sides together and pin in place. Stitch around the edge with a 1cm seam allowance leaving a gap for filling with the fibre filling. Cut off the corners to make turning out easier. Turn your cushion right side out and give it a good press, making sure that the corners are pushed out as far as they will go. Take your fibre filling and start to fill the cushion making sure that you fill all the corners. Once it is about 2/3rds filling, take your button and sew it on in the middle of the cushion. I used an extra strong thread to ensure that it did not snap when pulling it tight. Continue filling until you have reached the desired “plumpness”. Slip stitch the gap closed. Now for the tassels, make six tassels using your yarn. With a large bodkin, thread through the ends that you used to tie the tassel together and thread through the corner of the cushion. Tie off on the inside and repeat for all six corners. I made four cushions for my outside table and chairs to brighten up the garden. I do hope we have a nice summer to enjoy them in the garden! I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial. Please follow me on Instagram at @designbygill66 or Facebook at Design by Gill. Created by Gill Rich for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Kimberley Hind This 4 patch cushion is a great and simple way of showing the designs of your fabric. It has an envelope back and you can add a self cover button to the centre as a feature to the cushion. What you'll need to make a 15" cushion cover: - Four 8" squares for front - Two 15.5" x 10" for the back - A button - Scrap piece of fabric to cover the button - Needle and thread - Scrap piece of wadding for the button Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance If your cushion is a different size, divide the size of the cushion by 2 and add half an inch seam allowance. Alice fabric: I've used the new Alice in Wonderland fabric from Craft Cotton Company who teamed up with the Victoria and Albert Museum in London to celebrate their upcoming exhibition, Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser. This is a 5 piece fabric collection featuring the wonderful illustrations from first published edition of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, illustrated by John Tenniel, 1866. Click here to see exhibition details 1. Arrange your 4 squares how you'd like the to look on the cushion. Place the second square on top if the first and sew down the right edge. Repeat with the 4th and 3rd square. Now you'll have 2 panels. 2. Place the bottom panel on the top panel, right sides together, and sew across the bottom edge. 3. Hem the bottom of one of your backing pieces of fabric and hem the top of the other piece. To hem, fold the edge inwards by 1/4 inch and then 1/4 inch again, press and then sew in place. 4. Pin the 2 back pieces of fabric to front of your cushion, right sides together. Overlap the back 2 pieces making sure the hemmed edges are both facing inwards. Sew all 4 sides. 5. Snip the corners of the cushion so that the corners aren't bulky (be sure not to cut through your stitches.) Turn the cushion right side out and press. 6. To make the self covered button, cut a piece of fabric twice the size of your button. Cut a small piece of wadding slightly bigger than the button to give it some padding. TIP - fussy cut your fabric to feature a character or pattern on your button. Place the button on wadding on the wrong side of the fabric in the centre. Use a running stitch to roughly sew around the outer edge of the fabric., close the the edge. Use double the thread to make it strong and make sure these stitches aren't too small. 7. Pull the thread tight until the fabric has gathered around the button and tie your thread off in a knot to secure. 8. Sew the button to the centre of the cushion cover by sewing from the back. You could go straight through the fabric on the button but I've fussy cut the cat so didn't want to disturb that! 9. Put your cushion pad inside the cover and you're done! To see more from Kimberley, visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes and her blog WhatKimberleyMakes Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Stephanie Marsh Snuffle mats are a great way to encourage your dog to sniff and search for hidden treats. You can easily make them yourself and encourage enrichment exercises for your dog. You will need: · Fleece, either in once colour or a variety of colours (amount depends on size of mat, the strips are 1” x 6”, to work out how many you need you need to count the bars between the holes horizontally and vertically, then times them together, then times by 2, e.g. 17 bars across, 12 bars down = 189 x 2 = 378). I used dimple fleece, but this works well with both dimple and normal. For a recycled version you could maybe try cutting up old t shirts/sweatshirts, anything that doesn’t fray. · 1 draining rack mat (I used this one from Amazon, https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0000CFPTY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_glt_fabc_QZFMT3129TV4E4C1XGYM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) Instructions: 1. Work out how many strips you will need, see working outs above. 2. Then decide how you would like the colours laid out, I have the pink going one way and the grey going the other way. 3. Cut strips 1” x 6” in the fleece, the amount as per your workings out. I cut 189 pink and 189 grey. For quick cutting out I used a rotary cutter, quilting ruler and cutting mat, this allows you to cut many layers at a time. 4. Take one strip and feed one end through one of the whole, then the other end through the hole next to it, turn the mat over and tie once. 5. Continue this all the way along the row. 6. Repeat with all the other rows. 7. Now repeat the whole process going the other way, you may find a pokey tool or pen with lid on handy to poke the fleece through. Take care not to catch in the ends of other strips. 8. Give the mat a shake to get rid of any loose bit. 9. Now all left to do is to put some of yours dog’s small treats or dried biscuits in amongst the strips for her to snuffle out. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Anna at Lets Get Sewing I rarely purchase sewing patterns as I much prefer hacking the ones I already own or self-drafting patterns from scratch in order to create a pattern that matches the design I have in mind. Sewing patterns are also expensive, so I prefer to only buy ones that I know I'll make again and again or that I wouldn't be able to draft myself. However, when Viki Sews patterns had a flash 50% sale a few months ago I decided to purchase and download a few patterns, including the Courtney Dress. The design of the bodice is what drew me to the Courtney Dress pattern. I've seen quite a few tops with corset-y designs recently, in other words lots of seams and a fairly close fitting bodice. What I liked about this design is that the bodice has an extra level of detail which made this top a bit different. I also immediately pictured this pattern in a floral fabric for summer, I thought flowers would compliment the feminine design. Craft Cotton Co have such a wide range of floral cotton fabrics that it took me a long time to decide which one to go for. Most dressmaking patterns call for drapey or stretchy fabrics, so it was nice to make something out of cotton as there are so many lovely cotton prints available My only brief is that I wanted a pretty floral and in the end I went for this rayon linen fabric which was exactly what I had in mind. Much like cotton the linen held its shape perfectly when it came to the bodice construction, and interfacing helped to ensure that the upper bodice stands upright. The first thing to note about Viki Sews patterns is that they are a Russian company. Although they have recently launched some patterns in English, the ones I purchased were all in Russian. It isn't just a challenge for the instructions, I actually found the website itself quite hard to navigate in a different language. Google translate is definitely a big help, although I found that the app's camera feature wasn't much use when it came to deciphering which pattern piece was which. In the end, the actual sewing process wasn't any harder for the lack of English instructions as the photo diagrams are really clear and even without those I would have been able to guess the order of construction. The main difficulty lay in labelling each pattern piece, but now that I've made this top I have my pattern pieces labelled in English for next time. Overall it was fun to try out a new pattern company which has some interesting and slightly different designs, especially as their patterns are very affordable - I paid £2.50 for 3 patterns thanks to the sale! I always like to add topstitching to makes and the seams of this pattern were perfect for doing that. The topstitching adds a really neat finish and also forces the seams to lie flat. I really love how all the features of this make tie in together, having thin straps adds a delicate feel to the bodice which is mimicked by the pretty flowers on the fabric. As mentioned the pattern is actually drafted as a dress, but I thought I'd get more wear out of mine as a top which I could pair with jeans. Simply cutting the top at the waist seam would have made it too short and the proportions a bit off, so I decided to add pleats to the bottom. I'm not usually a big fan of pleats and ruffles but I think the pleats work really well here. The rayon linen was a joy to sew with as it pressed so well, meaning that the pleats and hem are really even and neat. To finish the top I added an invisible zip down the centre back, my preferred closure for makes. I'm pretty pleased with how invisible the zip is and I think that another closure such as buttons would have been too busy, detracting from the fabric and bodice details. The only thing I didn't think about when I changed the pattern to a top is that the zip can only be as long as the bodice so won't open as far down. I didn't realise this was a problem until right at the end, when it turned out to be a bit of a squeeze getting the width of the waist seam over my shoulders! I'm torn between redoing the zip as an open ended zip (which would take time and I also don't like the look of open ended zips compared to invisible ones) or just accepting that this top takes a while to get on and off. When I first started making this top summer weather seemed like a long way away and the holidays felt even more distant. Now, the sun is shining and I'm looking forward to getting lots of wear out of my finished make! Made by Anna at Lets Get Sewing for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Alex Holt This project was my first time adapting an existing pattern. I followed Donlarrie Couture's Youtube video which can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3KdA92mrH8&list=PLow2jkVK-xMf9OR5IdW5RIAhQMUY3QfgK&index=21 to create a corset pattern using my own measurements. The original pattern includes a main fabric and a lining fabric. In my version I decided to use two main fabrics so that I could reverse the top and get two tops out of 1! For this top I used Sarah Payne's Birds of Paradise fabrics, which are great for this project as the designs pair together perfectly. I placed all my pattern pieces onto each main fabric and cut them out, this left me with two identical rows of pattern pieces in two different fabrics. I always lie my pattern pieces in order, so I don't confuse the left and right pattern pieces. It also makes it easier to match them up later for sewing. Once the cutting out was finished it was time to over edge all the individual pieces. I then started pinning all the pieces together, lining up the edges and sewing them together until I had two separate corset tops. At this stage I held up the separate pieces and wrapped it around my body to check I had enough fabric at the back to either install a zip or create a lace up back using grommets. I normally add on an extra inch to my patterns just in case I make a mistake, or the measurements don’t add up, which happens quite often. For this reason, I found that I had extra fabric at the back. This was not an issue as it was easy to trim later once I had finished the rest of the top. I placed my two separate corset tops on top of each other, right sides together and pinned them. This was the point where my project strayed from the original pattern, as I decided I wanted to add gathered straps to my top. I used dressmakers chalk to mark the areas I wanted to leave unsewn, so that I could sandwich the straps in between the two layers later. It was easier to decide where I wanted the straps to go at the front, so I left a small area unsewn at the highest point of the top. It was harder to guess where the straps would go at the back, so I left a large area unsewn. Once the two layers were sewn together (apart from the marked areas), I ironed the unsewn areas seam allowance. This would make topstitching the top shut much easier. I then turned the newly constructed top inside out, so the correct sides were now showing. It then needed to be ironed to flatten all the seams. For the straps, I used bright red satin from the Craft Cotton Company, which matched perfectly with the bright red in Sarah's designs. I envisioned the sleeves gathering to create pleats, so I cut out 2 rectangles that were 6 inches wide and 16 inches long. Again, I made the straps a little longer and wider than I needed to account for seam allowance and tailoring adjustments. I folded the right sides together lengthwise and sewed down one side and then across, to close one end of the tube. I then turned the strap inside out, so the correct side was on the outside. To close the final hole, I folded the raw edges inside and topstitched the opening shut. To try and achieve the gathered effect I sewed across each end of the straps using the longest stitch length on my machine and made sure not to backstitch. I took the straps and gently pulled the top threads of the stitching to gather the fabric. This didn’t work as effectively as I thought, as it didn't create a pleat all the way along the strap. However, I now have the option to fold the strap in half to make it thinner, or I can have a wider strap that drapes off the shoulder. To figure out where I wanted the straps to go I pinned them in different places and tried on the top. Once I was happy with the placement, I topstitched the openings to trap the ends of the straps in the top. This would allow my top to be completely reversible and the staps would look the same each way. Moving onto the final stage of the project, I trimmed the extra fabric at the centre back, tucked in the raw edges and top stitched the ends shut. It was then time to measure and install the grommets so that I could lace up the back of the corset. This was my first-time installing grommets and it was so easy to do. It was also a great way to let out some frustration for all those failed projects. The finished result looks extremely polished, and because I used grommets to close the top, both sides look as though they are the ‘correct side’. The finishing touch was to lace up the back with a matching bright red ribbon. I love this pattern so much, it’s a great way to minimise the number of clothes you have and save space. It can also be easily adjusted, as the back can be done up as tight or loose as you would like it. It's also incredibly comfortable as there is no need for boning. I know I'll be making many more of these for next summer, and I'll be wearing this one in autumn with my black turtleneck. @aholt_textiles By Alex Holt for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

"BALANCING ACT Balancing Act is a complementary palette of colour whose natural balance of warm and cool tones support and enhance one other. The brilliance of PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri is intensified within this artfully calibrated palette, injecting a feeling of liveliness and visual vibration. ...WELLSPRING A holistic and harmonious blend of nature infused shades, Wellspring highlights the compatibility of the greens with good natured PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri, and the health-giving properties of these deliciously subtle and nourishing hues. ...THE STAR OF THE SHOW The dynamic presence of PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri comes through in The Star of the Show, as we surround this happiest and warmest of all the blue hues with a palette of classics and neutrals whose essence of elegance and understated stylishness convey a message of timeless sophistication. ...AMUSEMENTS Amusements, a joyous and whimsical colour story of irrepressible fun and spontaneity is amplified by the carefree confidence and joyful attitude of PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri, a twinkling blue hue whose playfulness emboldens uninhibited expression and experimentation." Click here to read more

Project by Kimberley Hind A large mannequin shaped pincushion, perfect for keeping pins and needles to hand whilst sewing. Fabric used: Simplicity Vintage collection – Dots Finished Size: 7cm x 20cm (not including base) What you’ll need: Mannequin template - download here 34cm x 28cm Fabric Toy filler Small pot or bucket (I’ve used a pot from a small faux IKEA plant) Small pebbles Hot glue gun Buttons to decorate 6mm dowelling pole, 30cm long Use ¼” seam allowance Instructions 1. Cut 2 pieces of fabric using the mannequin template. 2. Sew the two pieces right sides together leaving a small gap in the base for turning. Snip into the curved seams in the seam allowance, avoiding cutting through any stitches. TIP: Use a small stitch, around 2.2 to make the seam strong and prevent them loosening when stuffing. 3. Box the base by pinching the corners out so that the side seams sit over the base. Sew straight across. 4. Turn right side out. 5. Stuff the mannequin tightly with toy filler. TIP: Use small amounts of stuffing at a time. This will make it easier to fill and to get the pole in later. 6. Use a hot glue gun to glue the rod inside the pot in the centre. Make sure the pole is straight. 7. Fill the pot around the rod with pebbles until the pot is full and the rod is secure in the centre. Hot glue gun the pebbles in place once you’re happy with the layout. 8. To decorate the top of the pot, glue buttons and cover the pebbles. 9. Push the rod through the bottom of the mannequin to the desired height. Use a small dab of glue if you want the mannequin to be even more secure. Hand-sew the hole closed around the rod. To see more from Kim visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes Made by Kimberley Hind for the Craft Cotton Co 2022

Project by Michelle at Creative Blonde Create a beautiful cushion using the new Enchanted Wings fabric, with bunting to match. Materials FQ of each Enchanted wings fabric - Flowers on sky blue - Bugs on black - butterflies on mauve ½ meter of bright pink solid ½ meter of grey solid Pink Aurifil threads 2 FQ’s of Vlieseline Bondaweb or interfacing Haberdashery items · Quilter’s ruler, · Rotary cutter/scissors · Iron · Cutting mat · Basic sewing supplies · Sew Easy heart templates (1”, 2” and 3”) · 15-16” cushion pad Lets get sewing… (All seam allowance is ¼”) CUSHION Using your rotary cutter and ruler, lets create the envelope style cushion cover. Cut a 15” square from the grey solid cotton. Cut two 15” x 10” pieces from the pink solid cotton Roughly cut around 5 of the flowers (fabric shown below), fuse to bondaweb, then using the 2” heart template, cut out your flowers. Baste or pin to the centre of the grey square piece of fabric, as shown above. Using a blanket stitch, stitch around the outer edge using a bright pink aurifil thread. Create the next piece of the design by fusing five 2” squares from the pink solid fabric to bondaweb, then using the 1” heart template, cut out five hearts from the pink squares. To complete the top cushion design, roughly cut around five butterflies, fuse to bondaweb, then using the 3” heart template, cut them from the fused fabric pieces. Arrange the applique onto the cushion piece (grey square) pin or baste once you're happy with your placement. Blanket stitch in the same way as before. Take the two pink pieces of backing fabric, and along one long edge, fold and press over ¼” twice. Repeat on the remaining pink piece. Top stitch to hold in place, see photo below. Lay your top cushion and backing pieces, right sides together, and sew ½” around the whole piece. Snip corners, and turn right side out and press. Insert a 15-16” cushion pad. BUNTING To create the bunting, first choose your preferred bunting shape (min 5” square). Create a template using cardstock, and cut out 7 from the pink solid fabric, and 7 from the grey solid fabric. Using the bug fabric, roughly cut around 7 bugs, fuse these pieces to bondaweb, then using the 3” heart template, fussy cut out your bugs. Using the same blanket stitch as before, secure the hearts to the centre of your grey bunting pieces. With right sides together, sew a pink and grey bunting piece together using ¼” seam allowance along all edges - BUT NOT ALONG THE TOP, turn right side out and press. Cut a 64” x 1 ½” strip of pink fabric. Fold over ¼” along long edge and press. Repeat along opposite edge. Then fold in half and press again – creating your binding to hold your bunting together. Position your bunting flags evenly along the binding and pin in place. Sew 1/8” from bottom edge of binding to secure flags in place. Remember to fold over ¼” on either end of binding for a neat finish. Your bunting and cushion set are complete To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric www.visagetextiles.com www.hobbycraft.co.uk Made by Michelle at Creative Blonde for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

I recently paid a visit to the award winning Whitaker Gallery & Museum and I can't recommend it enough. Set in beautiful park grounds near the centre of Rawtenstall it is a hidden gem. After being awarded a Heritage Lottery Grant in 2019 it has undertaken a complete refurbishment, restoring the 1840s home of George Hardman and combining it with a modern front; the building itself is a piece of art. The contrast between old and new is a theme that runs throughout the gallery, including the pieces on display. 'The Collector' Now I am writing this blog as I have found possibly one of my favourite displays to date and I must tell the world! The cabinet of curiosities is a small room inside the gallery and it is filled with the most weird and wonderful pieces, but the main stand out for me is found as you walk round the corner. There on a small stage stands a victorian woman with an unusual head; surrounded by fabric plants she steals the show. Now I know this sounds odd but stick with me, I mean look at that display! It gives me Alexander McQueen meets Dr Who vibes and I am here for it. 'The Lady with The Bird Head' The fabric plants are a main feature for me; created by Kay Kennedy with the help of the volunteer staff they are quite the statement piece and something I would definitely feature in my own home. The idea of creating plants using odd bits of fabric is so simple yet so effective! A perfect idea for those who want a house filled with plants but are incapable of remembering to water them (*cough* me *cough*). The various shapes, patterns and textures you could create are endless, as I write this I'm looking around the office deciding which fabric I might sneak home to make my own. 'Fabric Plants' created by Kay Kennedy and the volunteers at The Whitaker I could write about my love for The Whitaker all day but then I'd be giving away all it's best kept secrets. So, I suggest you take trip to Lancashire and take a look for yourself; have a stroll around the grounds, visit the cafe and get inspired to create! thewhitaker.org By Jess for The Craft Cotton Co 2020