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Project by Michelle Roberts Follow my tutorial, on how to make your very own ‘Elephant Tassel’ table runner. These stunning fabrics are all available from ‘Craft Cotton Co’. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size: 12 ½” x 43” Materials · FQ pack of the monochrome elephant prints available at Hobbycraft · FQ of Brights fabric prints available at Hobbycraft · 14” x 45” Thermolam by vlieseline · Gutermann threads · 26” of bright tassels thread · ½ yrd white/cream fabric Haberdashery items · Iron-away marker pen · Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors · Iron · Cutting mat · Basic sewing supplies Making the table runner Step 1: Cutting · Four 4” squares from the elephants · Four 5” squares from the yellow Brights fabric · Eight 5” squares from the pink Brights fabric · Eight 4” squares from the white/cream fabric · Twelve 5” squares from the white/cream fabric · Two 42” x 1 ½” strips from monochrome leaf print · Two 13” x 1 ½” strips from monochrome leaf print · 1 ½” strips of green Brights fabric for the binding · Backing piece 43” x 14” · Vlieseline Thermolam 43” x 14” Assembling the Table Runner Make the HST by laying a coloured 5” square RST with white/cream 5” square. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the white/cream fabric using a friction fabric pen. Sew ¼” either side of the line. Cut along the line and press seam towards the coloured fabric Trim each new square to measure 4”. Complete 16 pink HST and 8 yellow HST. The table runner is made up of 4 of the following blocks Piece together using ¼” seam allowance Join all four blocks together Add the monochrome leaf print strips to top and bottom of table runner, then attach each side Baste your top quilt to Thermolam and backing piece. Quilt using your preferred method. I used my friction fabric pen to draw lines, before adding a red quilting thread, to add bold quilting lines Trim if required, add your green binding to the front of the quilt, and hand sew to the reverse. Cut the tassel length in half and attach to either end of the table runner to complete This ‘Elephant Tassel Table Runner’ tutorial has been created by me - Michelle creativeblonde. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page https://www.instagram.com/michelle_creativeblonde/ and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for the fabrics found in this tutorial www.craftcotton.com 0161 832 9431 Stockist for Gutermann threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 Stockist for Vlieseline Thermolam batting/wadding www.vlieseline.com/en/ www.facebook.com/VlieselineFreudenbergUK Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by The Crafty Lass You Will Need Fabric Thread Bosal Foam and Fibre Wadding Craft Essentials Sewing Machine Fabric Scissors Pins Tape Measure Iron and Ironing Board How to Make 1. CUT Select and press your fabrics before cutting out two 34cm x 42cm pieces of fabric per placemat that you would like to make. You will also need two pieces of wadding at the same size. 2. LAYER Place your fabric pieces right sides together and the wadding on top. Pin together if you would like to keep secure. 3. SEW Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew all around the edge leaving a gap to turn out the right way. 4. TURN OUT Turn out the right way and secure your threads. 5. SEW – EDGE Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew all around the edge. 6. HEART Cut out a heart shape template – the easiest way to get an even heart is to fold a piece of paper, draw one side, cut out and unfold. 7. HEART – SEW Pin your heart template onto the mat in the middle before sewing around the edge. I found this easiest using the machine at a very slow pace! Secure your threads. Et voila! A padded heart placemat… Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Kimberley Hind The Craft Cotton Company have teamed up with The V&A Museum for their second 5-piece collection to celebrate one of the most famous names in the V&A collection, William Morris. The William Morris collection encompasses beautifully intricate and original patterns from the V&A's archive with exceptional quality cotton. See more about William Morris and his designs here This is a tutorial on how to make a stylish bolster cushion with piping detail, perfect for decorating your living space! What you'll need for a 16" cushion: - 11.5x20" of fabric for the centre panel - 2 x 5.5x20" of fabric for either end of the cushion - 2 x 20" ribbon of choice - 2 x 21x1.5" fabric for piping - 2 x 21" piping cord (1/4" wide) - zipper foot for piping 1. Make the piping by pressing the strips of fabric in half width ways and placing the cord inside the fabric up against the fold. Sew in place using a zipper foot on your machine. Repeat for both pieces. 2. Sew the piping right sides together to the centre panel of fabric, still using your zipper foot to get as close as possible to the piping cord. 3. Sew the 2 side pieces of fabric right sides together to the piping cord. Again, make sure you sew as close as possible. 4. Sew the 2 long sides right sides together to create a tube shape. 5. Hem the ends of the cushion cover by folding the edges over twice and sewing. This will become the channel for the ribbon. 6. Make a small hole in the seam of the hemmed edge to thread your ribbon through. Repeat on the other end of the cushion cover. 7. Put the cushion pad inside the cover and tie the ends in a bow to finish! To see more from Kimberley, visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes and her blog WhatKimberleyMakes Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Lesley Foster Bring a little extra love into a room with a heart themed cushion. Materials Nursery Basics Pink fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company Paper Ruler Pencil Scissors Pins Thread Instructions 1- Using one of the fat quarters with a white background cut to 45x45cm in size, this will be the front of the cushion. 2- Draw a template onto paper for the heart like that shown in the picture below. Next, using the template cut 1 out from a fat quarter with a white background and one from a fat quarter with a pink background. Now take the template and split the bottom section into 2cm wide strips and using this template cut along the lines to create the strips for weaving from the 2 heart pieces. 3- Place one of the heart sides onto the front of the cushion and then place on the other side, then weave the strips of each colour to create the woven pattern. Pin at the en of each row to hold. 4- Sew down each side of the strips to secure and around the top of the heart pieces. 5- Using the Fat quarter with a pink background used previously for the heart cut four strips that measure 5x45cm. Then fold these in half lengthways (so the piece measure 2.5x45cm) with wrong sides together. Next pin these around the edge of the cushion so that the raw edge of the fabric strip is against the raw edge of the cushion. Sew around to secure. 6- To make the back pieces take two of the fat quarters and cut so they measure 45x54cm, next fold them in half with wrong sides together to give two back pieces. 7- Place the cushion front piece down right side facing up then place the two back pieces on top with them overlapping in the middle of the cushion. Sew around to secure, then turn out the right way. To see more from Lesley, visit her on Instagram @hookstitchsew Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Kimberley Hind An easy to make cushion cover that shows off your favourite fabric designs with piping to match. This cushion is a simple way to decorate any living space! The Craft Cotton Company have teamed up with The V&A Museum for their second 5-piece collection to celebrate one of the most famous names in the V&A collection, William Morris. The William Morris collection encompasses beautifully intricate and original patterns from the V&A's archive with exceptional quality cotton. See more about William Morris and his designs here What you'll need for a 16" cushion: - 1 front piece of fabric measuring 16x7" (top) - 1 front piece of fabric measuring 16x9" (bottom) - fabric of choice for piping measuring 18" x 1.5" - 1/4" piping cord measuring 18" - 2 piece of backing fabric measuring 16x11" - zipper foot on your machine 1. Make your piping by pressing the strip of fabric in half width ways. Place the piping cord inside the fabric strip against the fold and sew. Use a zipper foot to get close to the cord when sewing. 2. With the zipper foot still attached to your machine, sew your bottom outer piece of fabric right sides together with the piping. Get as close and you possibly can to the piping. 3. Sew the top piece to the other side of the piping right sides together in the same way. Trim the excess piping. 4. Hem the top of one backing piece of fabric and the bottom of another. 5. Place the 2 backing pieces right sides together on the front of your cushion. Make sure the hemmed edges are overlapping towards the centre of your cushion. Pin in place. 6. Sew around the entire edge of the cushion. 7. Turn right side out and put the cushion pad inside! qTo see more from Kimberley, visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes and her blog WhatKimberleyMakes Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Kimberley Hind Bunting is such an easy way to decorate for any party! You could customise with letters to spell out a child's name or numbers to really make it special. This bunting is quick and easy to make as you don't have to be too accurate! What you'll need: -Paper to make heart templates -Pinking sheers -Foam stabiliser (I've used Bosal in-r-foam) ideally double sided but not a must -Fabric of choice -Rope or ribbon -Hot glue gun -Erasable fabric pen or chalk -505 spray adhesive (if your foam isn't double sided fusible) -any extra decoration, I've used mini pompoms Alice fabric: I've used the new Alice in Wonderland fabric from Craft Cotton Company who teamed up with the Victoria and Albert Museum in London to celebrate their upcoming exhibition, Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser. This is a 5 piece fabric collection featuring the wonderful illustrations from first published edition of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, illustrated by John Tenniel, 1866. Click here to see exhibition details 1. Create heart templates. Either print out a heart shape online or to make your own, you can fold a piece of paper in half, draw a half heart shape and cut this out to make it even. I've made 2 different heart shapes. Use these templates to cut out heart shape foam. I made 4 of each size so 8 hearts in total. 2. Use the foam hearts to draw the shape onto your fabric using an erasable marker. You'll need a top and bottom piece for all 8 heart foams. TIP - fussy cut top piece of your fabric if it has a design you want to feature in the centre of the heart. Cut the shape out of your fabric about half an inch bigger. (this can be rough) 3. Place your top fabric heart onto the foam and your back piece on the back, sandwiching the foam between. If your foam is double sided fusible, you can iron the fabric to it now to keep it in place or use a spray glue instead. Roughly sew over the heart shape making sure you sew through all 3 layers. Repeat with all of the heart shapes. 4. Erase your pen marks and using pinking sheers, trim the edge of the hearts to create the zigzagged effect. 5. Using a hot glue gun, adhere the hearts in any arrangement you like onto the rope or ribbon. I've glued mine at angles to give the wonky effect to suit the Alice theme! Add any extras, I've added small pompoms to each heart. And that's the bunting finished! Curiouser and curiouser..... To see more from Kimberley, visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes and her blog WhatKimberleyMakes Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Sarah Holliman This Thomas The Tank Engine Panel can be used in so many ways. A perfect project for hand or machine quilting. The beautiful panel can be easily quilted for use as a play mat or wall hanging as desired. Add backing fabric in contrasting colours for a stimulating accessory for any child who loves Thomas and Friends. You will need; Craft Cotton Co. Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends Panel 1 metre co-ordinating backing fabric (1 metre co-ordinating fabric for ruffle - optional). 1 metre of wadding (I used 2oz wadding) or preferred quilting fibre for the interior of the panel Pins/Scissors Quilting safety pins for holding the panel layers together Thread for quilting the panel (either neutral or contrasting colour of choice) METHOD 1. Iron the panel flat. 2. Lay out your wadding piece onto a large flat surface. 3. Lay the panel piece over the top of the wadding fabric and smooth your hands over the fabric, gently making sure the fabric is as flat as possible. Leave about an inch of the wadding all around the panel, allowing for a little bit of movement. The excess can be trimmed away later. 4. Using quilting safety pins or large pins, pin your two fabrics together to hold them in place. I like to tack my fabrics in place at this point, with large hand tacking stitches and smoothing and straightening the fabric as you go - it takes a little longer but it ensures a smoother and more professional appearance. Take your time at this stage, the smoother the layout, the better the finished result. 5. You are now ready to quilt. If you have time and are looking for a relaxing project you could hand quilt the panel details with small back stitches, but for this tutorial I have decided to machine quilt. It can be a little tricky to quilt around some of the details but take your time. You do not have to quilt all of the panel, you can decide which parts of the picture you want to quilt. The faces of the trains are perfect to quilt as they almost come to life when they become three dimensional. I always start in the centre of the panel and this allows me to smooth out the whole panel as I quilt. 6. Work around the quilt panel, quilting the wadding in place. Try not to pull the quilt and wadding too much as this can distort the quilt. 7. When you have completely finished quilting the piece, machine sew all around the edges of the panel, as near to the edge as possible. This just gives some stability to the panel and secures everything in place. This line of stitching will eventually be hidden by the seam allowance on the finished project. 8. Trim the excess wadding so that it is exactly the same size as your quilted panel. 9. You are now ready to edge the panel. I have chosen to add a ruffle in contrasting fabric. 10. To make the frill, I cut 6 metre lengths of fabric - 4 inches wide. Join the lengths of fabric together to make one long continuous strip. Fold the fabric strip in half so that it is now 2 inches wide and press with an iron. 11. Place the fabric strip with the raw edges matched to the raw edge of the panel with the frill facing inwards. Tack the ruffle piece into place. 12. Pleat the fabric as you go folding the fabric in small regular pleats. Take care at the corners of the panel - you may need to fold the fabric several times into the corners to give the ruffle some shape. Secure into place. 13. When you are happy the ruffle is perfectly in place, you can machine stitch all around the edge with a 1/4 seam allowance on the panel. 14. You are now ready to add the quilt backing. 15. Lay your contrast backing panel with the right side down facing the quilted panel. You now have a ‘sandwich’ of layers - the panel, the ruffle (facing inwards on the panel) and lastly the backing fabric. 16. Smooth the backing fabric out over the layers and tack into place. Leave a large gap on one side for turning out the quilted panel later. 17. Stitch around all three layers - I found it easier to stitch over the wadding side of fabric as you can easily use the stitching lines of your other layers of fabric as a guide. 18. Turn the panel the right way out, push out the corners to ensure perfect shaping. 19. Sew up the gap in the side of the panel with small invisible running stitches. 20. Smooth out the panel, gently pull the quilting into shape, ensuring all the layers are flat. 21.Top stitch all around the panel to finally secure the layers into place. 22. Your quilted panel is now complete. To see more from Sarah, visit her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Michelle Roberts Follow this tutorial, to make two fresh and vibrant cushion covers. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size of each cushion cover 21” x 21” (suitable for a 21” cushion pad) Materials Fat quarter pack Kyoto by Stuart Hillard fabric 1 meter of Shimmer blush fabric Gutermann threads 2x 21” cushion pads Haberdashery items Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors Iron Cutting mat Basic sewing supplies Frixtion fabric pen Making the Cushions… Cut 5 strips measuring 2 ¾” x 11 ½”, join together in rows using ¼” seam allowance. Repeat. Cut 5 different strips of the same size and join as before, so you have 4 blocks each made up of 5 strips. Cut each block in half across the diagonal Arrange triangle pieces, so they overlap in the centre, mark this on the reverse 2 ¼” from centre seam Joint together to create your front cushion piece Trim the rectangles to measure 16 ¾” x 13 ½” Add a shimmer blush border by cutting four 4 ½” x 17” and joining to top and bottom of the two rectangles. Cut four more pieces from the shimmer bluch fabric measuring 4” x 22” Trim each square to measure 21 ½” x 21 ½” To create the envelope backing; Cut 2 pieces from the shimmer blush fabric measuring 21 ½” x 16” 2 pieces measuring 21 ½” x 12” Fold and press over ½”of the raw edge along the one 21 ½” length, twice. Repeat on all four backing pieces Lay the front of cushion, right sides together with the backing pieces (one of each size). Be sure to lay the sewn edges in the centre of the cushion. Pin and sew ½” around all four sides. Trim corners and turn right side out. Press. Repeat for the remaining cushion cover. Give a final press and add cushion pads. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric www.visagetextiles.com https://www.facebook.com/craftcottonco Stockist for Gutermann Threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 https://www.facebook.com/Guetermann.creativ.uk Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Kimberley Hind This large, quilted duffle bag is perfect for travel, whether its a weekend away or just popping out! It features pockets on the front and back and leather straps for added luxury! The Craft Cotton Company have teamed up with The V&A Museum for their second 5-piece collection to celebrate one of the most famous names in the V&A collection, William Morris. The William Morris collection encompasses beautifully intricate and original patterns from the V&A's archive with exceptional quality cotton. See more about William Morris and his designs here Here's what you'll need to make your own bag - Main - - 2 outer pieces of fabric measuring 20x14" - 2 lining pieces measuring the same - 2 pieces of iron on fusible fleece measuring the same, I've used Vlieseline H640 Base - - 1 outer piece measuring 20x8" - 1 lining piece measuring the same - 1 piece of iron on fusible fleece measuring the same - 1 piece of plastic mesh bag base approx. 20x8" Bag Sides - - 2 outer pieces measuring 8x11.5" - 2 lining pieces measuring the same - 2 pieces of fusible fleece measuring the same - piece of card to make a template - pen - 80" of 1" bias binding Pockets - - 2 pieces of fabric for the front and back pockets measuring 9x14" Straps - - 2 x 40" straps 25mm wide (these can be leather, fabric or webbing depending on your preference) Zip - - 1 x 20" zip matching your fabric - scrap fabric matching the outer fabric for the zip Tools - - 4 x bag feet - chalk wheel or erasable marking tool - temporary glue spray - I've used 505 - Optional - textile glue, I've used HT2 Gutermann glue 1/2" seam allowance used throughout unless stated otherwise. Let's get started! 1. Iron the fusible fleece to the 2 outer pieces of fabric and outer base. 2. Starting from the centre, draw vertical lines on both outer pieces of fabric 1.5" apart. Sew over these lines to quilt. 3. Fold both of the pocket pieces in half width ways, wrong sides together and press. Top stitch across the folded edge. 4. Pin one pocket piece centrally at the bottom of one of the quilted outer pieces. Repeat for the other pieces. Sew around the 3 edges of the pocket, leaving the top open. Sew as close to the edge as possible using a very small seam allowance! 5. Position each end of the strap at the bottom of the bag, overlapping the sides of the pocket. Make sure the straps are evenly distanced. Use a little fabric glue to secure in place, stopping 4 inches from the top. Sew in place also stopping 4" from the top. Repeat on the second piece. 6. Cut your zip 1" shorter each end than the top of the outer panels. Using some scrap fabric that matched the outer pieces, cut 4 x 2" pieces of fabric for the tabs. (these will be cut to size later on) 7. Sew the tabs to each end of the zip, right sides together, sandwiching the zip ends between the tabs. 8. Sew the zip right sides together to one of the outer pieces. 9. Sew the lining to the zip right sides together with the outer piece. 10. Sew the remaining quilted panel and lining in the same way onto the other side of the zip. TIP - tuck the straps into the pockets to keep them out of the way! 11. Cut the mesh to 1" smaller than the size of the base. 12. Place the mesh on the back of the base. Attach the bag feet to this base piece through the mesh. Make a small hole where you'd like them positioned n push the prongs through. I've put mine 1" from each corner. 13. Sew the outer base to the outer bag pieces, right sides together. Sew the lining base piece in the same way to the bag lining pieces. 14. On a piece of card, draw a rectangle shape measuring 8x11.5" Mark 4" from one corner and 3" across the top. Draw a slight curve from one mark to the other and repeat on both sides. Cut this shape out and this will be the bag sides template. Use the template to cut out your outer pieces, lining and fleece to this size. Iron the fusible fleece to the back of the outer pieces. 15. Turn the bag right side out, push the lining inside the bag and tack the lining and outer pieces together at each end. This will help keep the pieces in place when attaching the sides. Glue the side lining pieces to the back of the outer side pieces with 505 spray. Sew the side pieces wrong sides together to each end of the bag. 16. Sew the bias binding around the raw edges of the bag to conceal them. Machine sew one side and hand sew the other for a clean finish. To see more from Kimberley, visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes and her blog WhatKimberleyMakes Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Angela Harkness Take a simple tote bag up to the next level by adding pockets to the front and back and giving it structure with fusible foam and simple quilting. Ability/skill level of project: Easy Supplies: Abbey Fat quarter fabric pack 0.5 metre of fabric for lining 0.25 metre of fabric for bag straps Bosal In R form Fusible foam straps on a roll Directions: Step 1: Cut fabrics as required: 2 Pockets 18” x 18” Bag front 18” x 15” Bag back 18” x 15” 2 bag lining 18” x 15” 2 bag straps 42” x 4” Step 2: Cut fusible foam as required: 2 Pockets 18” x 9” Bag front 18” x 15” Bag back 18” x 15” 2 foam straps 42” Step 3: Prepare the pocket piece: -Fold fabric in half, insert the foam and fuse with the iron -Topstitch 1/8” along the top line of the pocket -Quilt straight lines running across the panel, using a straight stitch and walking foot -Repeat for second pocket piece Step 4: Prepare the bag front and back: -Fuse the foam to the bag pieces - Quilt straight lines running down the panels, using a straight stitch and walking foot Step 5: Prepare the bag straps: -Fold and press 0.5” along the long side of each strap piece -Wrap the strap around the foam with the turned edge running down the centre, fuse in place -Topstitch with a decorative stitch or a basic zigzag stitch running down the centre of the strap to secure the folded edge in place Step 6: Constructing the bag front panel: -Align the pocket piece with the bottom edge of the front panel with raw edges matching (take note of fabric print direction) -Position bag strap in place 5” in from each side along the bottom edge (the strap runs up from one side, makes the handle loop then returns back to the bottom) -Pin straps in place then mark 2” down from the top of the bag on each strap -Topstitch strap in place along each side of the strap, stopping the stitching at the marked point. Stitch an ‘X’ at the marked point to give the bag straps additional strength Step 7: Constructing the bag back panel: -Follow the same steps above with the second pocket piece and the back panel Step 8: Attaching the bag lining: -Sew the lining pieces to the bag front/back panels along the top edge -Make sure the bag straps don’t get caught up in your seams Step 9: Joining the front and back panels: -Position bag front and back together with right sides facing -Make sure the seams where the lining is attached match together, pin or clip together -Stitch the seams all around the bag and lining pieces, leaving a turning gap in the bottom of the bag lining Step 10: Constructing the bag base: -Fold the bottom bag seam over to the side seam. This makes a triangle shape -Measure 2” in from the point and mark a line across from edge to edge -Sew along the marked line, back tacking each end for strength -Cut away the excess triangle -Repeat above for bag lining bottom Step 11: Finishing off the bag: -Turn bag through the gap in lining -Press lining to give a faux binding effect running across the top edge of the bag -Topstitch this in place -Close turning gap Your bag is complete! To see more from Angela, visit her on Instagram @angerellas_crafts Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Michelle Roberts Follow this tutorial, to make your own patch pocket satchel, using the gorgeous Roald Dahl ‘Witches’ fabrics from Craft Cotton Co. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size 11 1⁄2” x 9 1⁄2” x 2 1⁄2” Materials 20” x 40” Mouse on white fabric (outer bag, gusset, and flap) 10” x 14” Frogs on purple fabric (front pocket) 20” x 30” Witches on purple fabric (lining) Green piece of fabric for strap 52” x 4” 1” rectangular ring and 1” rectangular slider by Hemline from Groves Magnetic snap fastener by Hemline from Groves Light fusible batting pack from Bosal in white Gutermann threads Haberdashery items Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors Iron Cutting mat Basic sewing supplies Frixtion fabric pen Debbie Shore Satchel Book for templates Making the Satchel... Fabric direction is important when cutting out your satchel pieces Lets get sewing... Cut out all the pieces using instructions from book, see Material list for which fabrics I used for each piece Fuse the light fusible Bosal batting to both outer pieces of fabric, the gusset, the outer bag flap (the mouse of white fabric) and one pocket piece (frogs on purple fabric). Using the friction fabric pen, draw a line length ways along the centre of the gusset, then draw a further line 1⁄2” either side of the centre line, stitch along these lines using Gutermann white thread, iron to remove drawn lines. Quilt the pocket with the fusible batting and add the thinner side of the magnectic snap, join to the front of the bag. Add the other side of the clasp to the flap lining piece, I added a small 1” square of fusible batting to the reverse to add stability. Make the bag flap, by sewing the outer and lining pieces together, leaving the top open, snip into the curves and turn right side out. Sew 1/8” around the three sides. Join the gusset to the bag, check direction of fabric when joining. Pin all the way round before you begin sewing, repeat for the back of the bag. Repeat process with the lining pieces and lining gusset, leave a gap for turning. Follow the instruction to make the strap and add the ring and slider. Join to the bag. Drop the outer bag inside the lining and join with right sides together, be sure to match your side seams. Turn right side out, sew the opening closed using a ladder stitch. Push the lining inside the satchel and top stitch around the top edge of the bag to complete. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric and Bosal batting www.visagetextiles.com https://www.facebook.com/craftcottonco For more information about Debbie Shore book www.facebook.com/HalfYardSewingClub/ Stockist for Gutermann Threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 https://www.facebook.com/Guetermann.creativ.uk Stockist for magnetic snap and slider Sales: sales@groves-banks.com General: enquiries@groves-banks.com https://www.facebook.com/GrovesLtd Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need: 1 pk fat quarters matching thread rice (uncooked) bondaweb Note: ¼ inch seam allowance included throughout, unless otherwise stated Balls (makes 6) 1. Cut 12 4.5 inch squares from 3 of the fat quarters. 2. Take 2 squares, place right sides together. 3. Sew around 3 sides. 4. Trim corners and press the side seams open. 5. Turn right sides out and press ¼ inch to inside on raw edge. 6. Open up the unsewn side and match side seams. Pin and stitch along this seam, leaving an opening of approximately an inch at one end. 7. Using a small funnel (you can make your own from paper) fill the pouch with rice, until nearly full (when put on a flat surface there should be about an inch and a half not filled, from top of rice to point). 8. Stitch the gap closed, either by hand or on the sewing machine – tip, sew from the centre to the edge, I found this easier. Juggling Bag 1. Cut 2 oblongs (in 2 different fabrics) 14 inches x 13 ¼ inches, then cut each oblong into 3 oblongs (1 x 5 inches deep and 2 x 4.5 inches deep). Put to one side, but keep in their sets. 2. Out of another fabric from the set of fat quarters you will cut the letters to applique. Using bondaweb draw out the letters, remember to check which way to draw them, you don’t want them coming out back to front. 3. Iron them onto the reverse of the fabric, cut out carefully. 4. Take the backing off the lettering, scoring with a pin helps. 5. Place on the middle panel of one of the one of the cut oblongs, steam iron in place. Now you need to permanently attach them to the fabric, I used free motion, but you can use a close zig-zag stitch or an embroidery stitch, such a blanket stitch. 6. Join the oblongs together to make 2 larger oblongs, switching the middle ones over. Stitch and neaten the edges together. 7. With right sides together sew the sides and the bottom of the oblongs together. Neaten the seam allowances. 8. Press well. On the top opening press ¼ inch to the wrong side and ½ and inch. Machine stitch in place. 9. Cut 2 strips, 18 inches by 2 inches and 2 strips 10 inches by 2 inches (different fabrics). 10. With the longer two strips sew together at one of the short ends. Press the seams open, then press in half lengthwise, then open up. Press raw long edges to centre then fold in half lengthwise and press again. Sew along the long edge. 11. With the smaller strips press in half lengthwise then open up and press raw edges to centre, press open, press under ¼ inch on the short edges. 12. Pin these to either side on the top of the bag, approximately 1 inch down from top. Stich in place on the long edges. 13. Using a large safety pin, thread the long strip through the casing. 14. Tie a knot in each end of the cord. Place the juggling balls in the bag and draw in, tie. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2020