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Project by Caroline Devonport This is a little lockdown project that doesn’t take long. You will need Felt ( I used a mixed pack of craft felt) Small flower pot or mini bucket Threads Stuffing (can be fabric scraps) Glue Paper Pen Basic sewing stuff I started by washing the flower pot, it had been in the shed and was a little grubby. I then selected three shades of green, but you could use just one or two if you wanted. On the paper I drew a rough oval/cactus shape. I then cut this out. I added a little frill bit at the bottom. I pinned this to the felt and cut out three layers at a time. I then repeated this so I had 6 cactus shapes. You do not need to do 6, you can do less. I then used the sewing machine to join the pieces together, you could do this by hand as felt is very easy to sew. Stitching carefully down one side at a time adding pieces until they are all joined together. Unusually you leave the sewn side outside. At this point, I added a little stuffing, to give it some body. Thread a long needle with two strands of green thread, so you end up with 4 strands thick. Stitch through the centre of the cactus, loosely sewing opposite sides of the cactus, to give shape. Don’t worry if stitches are visible. Once all sides are stitched add more stuffing to individual parts to make them firm, use a pencil or similar to push right in carefully.. It should look something like this now. I set the cactus aside now to work on the pot. The pot has a hole in the bottom for drainage, we don't want drainage. So I cut a small piece of felt to fit, but you could use paper or cardboard, anything really. I then drew around the top of the pot to make a pattern for the “soil”, cut this smaller as you will not be putting it right at the top. I used felt for my “soil”, but you could use cardboard. Stuff pot with some more stuffing or scraps. Glue “soil” to top of stuffing. Next take some felt for the flowers this is optional. I chose pink and orange. I cut two small circles. I then stitched and shaped these to make a rough flower shape that I attached to the top of the cactus. I added scraps of pink and orange along edges to look like little flowers. Using green thread and pink thread add little tufts, tying it around the edges. Then cut another “soil” circle of brown felt. Then spread out the frilly bottom part of the cactus and sew this to the “soil” circle. You can do this with a few big stitches, fine sewing skills are not required. Then glue this to the other “soil” circle inside the pot. It will now look like this and is basically finished. The only thing left to do is add some pins. Enjoy your new pincushion. To see more from Caroline. visit her on Instagram @the_sewing_pirate Made by Caroline Devonport for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Nicola Hills You Will Need: 1/2 Metre of Peter Rabbit goes to London fabric 20cm x the width of the main fabric of the dress for lining Shirring Elastic Lace Tools Required: Sewing Machine, Basic Sewing Kit, Heat Erasable Pen, Iron I made this little dress without a pattern whilst using just a half metre of fabric, so there is no specific size guide. I think (depending on the size of the child) this would fit 9 months + How to: Cut a 3” vertical strip of fabric this will be for the straps & bow. Hand wind the shirring elastic onto your bobbin, don’t wind too loose or too tight. Set the machine up with a normal upper thread and insert the elastic bobbin, turn the stitch length to 4+ Top Tip After lowering the foot and putting needle into the fabric leave approx 3” of both threads and hold them before you start sewing. With the lining fabric and main fabric R/S together, sandwich the lace in between them at the top of the dress. Pin or clip to secure then sew. Open out and press seams. Draw lines across the top 1/3 of the fabric and lining with your erasable pen. Now the fun part! Sew along the guidelines ——————— You will notice a gradual gather (I rewound the bobbin a couple of times to get the correct tension) —————————————————————————— —————————————————————————— —————————————————————————— Once you have completed your shirring, with R/S Together join the two open seams, pin or clip then sew down the length of the dress, this creates a tube effect.Trim to neaten the edges and press seams open, the seam line will become the back of the dress. Create a hem by turning up 1cm W/S to W/S on the bottom of the dress, press flat, then turn another 1cm up to create a double fold, press again. Top stitch neatly around. Straps Cut x2 12” strips out of the 3” wide piece you cut at the start. Fold in half R/S together, sew down the long edge. Turn out and iron flat repeat for the second strap. Bow Cut x1 4” piece out of the remaining 3” wide piece. R/S together fold in one side then fold the other side in but overlap it slightly (this will create an envelope effect) Sew down the top and bottom. Turn out, press out corners, iron. Now tacking stitch straight up the centre, put a knot in the end of the thread then gather up the bow, stitch to secure and wrap tacking cotton around before stitching to the dress. I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, if you ‘have a go’ please share your makes with us @bobbincottagebodkin @craftcottonco Nicola Hills x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Click here for the full tutorial Project created by Sharron Belcher for Bosal

Project by Jo Hart Finished size measures 18" What you will need: 2 fat quarter packs in 2 different colourways 2 fat quarters for backing 20" square of batting 18" cushion pad Understanding the templates The printed side of your template will be the reverse side of your finished block. The dotted outside lines are the seam allowances (1/4”). The solid black lines are the sew lines. The letters indicate the different sections. The numbers show the order of sewing. Step 1, Print out 6 pages of templates and cut each template apart on the outer dashed line. Cut the fabric pieces for each section as you sew the templates. Step 2, On the reverse side of template A, place a tiny dot of temporary glue in the middle of section A1 and place your corresponding fabric on top, right side up. Ensure the entire section is covered plus at least ¼” extra all the way around. A good way to check is to hold your template up to the light. Step 3, Turn the template back over and fold along the solid line between sections A1 and A2, using a ruler, trim the edge of the fabric ¼” beyond the folder paper, being careful not to cut into the paper. Step 4, Unfold the template and place your fabric for A2 right sides together against the edge of A1. Make sure that when sewn, the fabric will cover the whole of A2 plus ¼” seam allowance the whole way around. Pin into place. Step 5, With the printed side of the template facing up, sew along the line between sections A1 and A2, starting and ending 2-3 stitches beyond the printed line. Press the fabric open. Step 6, Repeat step 3 to trim the fabric ¼” beyond the line between Sections A2 and A3. Add the A3 fabric following steps 4-5. Once the template is complete trim down to the outer dashed lines Step 7, Repeat steps 2-6 to make the remaining blocks. Step 8, Once all the blocks are sewn, lay them out in the order you like and sew together into 6 rows of 6 using 1/4" seam allowances. Remove the paper templates, gently tearing along the seam lines. Step 9, Make a quilt sandwich by layering you backing fabric, batting and cushion top together, baste and quilt as desired. Trim to a 18 1/2” square. Step 10, From backing fabric cut 2 pieces 13” x 18 ½” and on one piece fold over ¼” along the long edge, Press. Fold over another ¼”, press again and topstitch into place. Step 11, Cut a contrasting strip of fabric measuring 2” x 18 ½”, fold in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press, fold the outside edges into the centre and press again, fold in half again on the first centre fold line and press to complete the binding. Attach the binding to the other piece of backing fabric measuring 13” x 18 ½” along the long edge and topstitch into place. Step 12, Place your cushion front right side up and layer your first piece of backing fabric 13” x 18 ½” on top right side down, lining up the raw edges with the top and sides. Layer your second piece of backing fabric 13” x 18 ½” on top right side down, lining up the raw edges with the bottom and sides. Pin and sew all the way around using ¼” seam allowance. Trim the corners being careful not to cut into the stitching and zig zag stitch all the way around. Turn your cushion right side out and insert your cushion pad to finish. To see more from Jo, visit her on Instagram @unicornharts Made by Jo Hart for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

If you can’t get to the beach bring the beach to you with this embroidered beach huts hoop. Materials Under the Sea fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company 24cm diameter embroidery hoop Ribbon 20cm long Piece of felt 25x25cm Scissors Embroidery thread - Light blue - Light yellow - Dark yellow - Pink Needle Thread 1- Take the blue piece of fabric from the fat quarter set; this will be your background. Cut it so its 42x42cm, then lay it flat and place the embroidery hoop in the middle. 2- Take the yellow piece of fabric and cut out a piece 15x34cm, then cut a wavy line along the top edge. Place on top of the backing piece, using the embroidery hoop as a guide for placement. 3- Take the pink and white fabric and cut out: two squares 8x7cm, two triangle pieces 7.5x5x5cm, and two pieces 3x6cm. These make up the huts, roof, and doors. Place these onto the backing fabric. 4- Pin the secure all items in place and next using the embroidery thread sew around the edges of the pieces to secure. 5- Cut out a small triangle from the white fabric to make a small flag to go on the top of one of the huts. Sew around the edge using embroidery threads to secure. 6- Add detail to the yellow sand section using the two yellow embroidery threads and a running stitch and French knots. 7- Once completed cut around the edge of the hoop leaving a 7cm seam allowance. 8- Cast on using the thread and sew around 1cm from the edge of the fabric. Pull to tighten and sew to secure. 9- Take the felt and cut a circle with a 20cm diameter, and sew onto the back of the embroidery hoop. 10- Thread the piece of ribbon through the clasp at the top of the hoop and tie to make a loop. Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2020 To see more from Lesley, visit her on Instagram @hookstitchsew

Tutorial by Nicola Hills Skill Level: 1 2 3 You will need: 1 Metre of cotton fabric 1 Contrasting plain Fat Quarter Coat Hanger 1 Long Zip Tools Required: Iron Zipper Foot Sewing Machine Basic Sewing Kit *This could all be done by hand if you prefer* How To: Wear Me Cut your FQ in half lengthways and lay your hanger on top, draw around, leaving a 1/2” for a seam allowance. Cut around your template. Cut to size and place your patterned fabric underneath (this can be as long or short as you require) Fold the pattern fabric in half vertically and cut down the middle. Insert the zip. Top stitch down both sides of the zip. R/S together sew the plain fabric top section to the patterned bottom section. Press seams flat. Repeat for the back section (without the zip) R/S together pin back and front sections, sew all around using a 1/4 seam allowance leaving a 1”gap top centre for the hanger to go through. Turn R/S out. Iron. Add some jumbo ric rac for decoration and words ‘Wear Me’ (I used my Cricut maker) but you can use felt with stencils or fabric pens. You will need: 1 Plain FQ 2 Pom Poms 1 Metre of patterned Fabric How to: Wash Me Cut the metre into 4 equal quarters Cut the FQ into 4 strips horizontally. Place one strip with one patterned quarter, trim to fit, sew with 1/4” allowance, iron seams. *repeat with all 4 sections Now take two sections and join them at the top along the plain edge. *Repeat for the other two sections You now have two identical pieces. Lay them on top of each other R/S together, pin all around making sure you line up the seams. Now, draw a line 2” either side of the centre join all across the fabric. Then below that draw a 1” channel either side (this will be your drawstring channel) Sew all around the outside, but NOT through the 1” channel lines you drew and leave a 3” gap in the bottom to turn out. Turn out the right way, press into place and poke corners out gently. 2” down from the top draw the 1” channel on the front and back of the bag. Top Stitch along both lines. Add a drawstring through the channel from the open sides. Add Pom Poms to the drawstring for decoration and the words “Wash Me’ I hope you have enjoyed the tutorial and that it has inspired you to have a go! Please share your makes with us @bobbincottagebodkin @craftcottonco Nicola Hills x By Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Nicola Hills You Will Need: A set of New Delhi Fat Quarters (I used some from each of the 2 design packs) Decorative Beads Bosal Foam or Craf-Tex Wool - string (for tassels and to hand) Tools Required: Iron Sewing Machine Basic Sewing Kit Paper, Compass (round template) How To: Draw a circle template on the stiffner. I used a radius of 4 1/4’’ (11cm) Cut out 1/4 *leave a 1/4’’ for the seam allowance on the internal cuts* Push the two open ends together to create a cone shape. I used a hot glue gun to secure. Repeat the same size circle for the fabric top but sew down the open seams instead of glueing. Cut 7 - 2” & 3” x 55cm strips from the desired fabrics. With the first strip pin it R/S to R/S on bottom end of the fabric cone . Sew around using a 1/4’’ seam allowance. Now sew all the other strips together to create one big rectangle piece, iron the seams flat. Pin those to the strip you connected to the cone. Small lined Bunting Pennants - cut 12 triangle shapes, sew 2 r/s together. Use pinking shears or snip close to but through the stitches, turn out, push out the point with a pokey stick, carefully. Iron and sew to the bottom of your hanging. You can add tassels, beads, or other decorative bits to the bottom of the pennant points. Add a piece of wool/string/ribbon for hanging. Place somewhere where it can be admired :) I hope you have enjoyed the tutorial and that it has inspired you to have a go! Please share your makes with us @bobbincottagebodkin @craftcottonco Nicola Hills x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Marie Pickles You will need: Dimple fabric Wadding 2 packs of Cat Fat Quarters Step1 Select your chosen fat quarters and cut 5” squares using a rotary cutter, ruler and mat or with scissors if preferred. I needed 20 for this bed laying them out in 4 rows of 5 across. Pin together then sew into rows.Press all seams in the same direction and then sew the rows together making sure your points match.This time press the seams in the opposite direction (if you remember) Step 2 Matching the points really does make the quilted base look better and quilting the wadding and top is much easier. After pressing turn the fabric over so the pretty side is facing down and lay 3 or 4 layers of wadding on this. Press all these layers together and put a few pins in to hold. Alternatively, you can use a spray glue to hold or baste with a needle and thread. Turn over to pattern facing and pin well as you now need to quilt all the layers together. I quilted down every seam to make it stable. Step 3 Trim all sides of the quilt ensuring it is square, cut a piece of dimple fabric approx. 1cm larger and pin it to the back covering the wadding. Sew on machine or by hand very close to the edge as this will be covered with binding. Cut strips of fabric 2.5” wide and sew enough together to bind all 4 sides. Attach to the cotton quilted fabric and flip the binding to the back of the quilt hand sewing it to the dimple fabric. Set aside. Step 4 Making the cushioned back and sides:- Using wadding make 3 rolls as in photo 7 for the back and each side. I rolled the wadding and sewed it by hand into bolster shapes. Measure the circumference of the roll and add a further 6-8” this is the depth of the next fabric cover needed. Measure the width pf all the rolls and add another 6” this is the total length for the bolster overall. Cut your fabrics to join together into a rectangle. Fold in half and sew the long side. Slide the rolls into the tube making sure the longest is in the middle. Manipulate the roll so the rolls are at the top of the tube and the seam is at the bottom. Pin along the length and run a line of stitching fairly close to the stuffed roll. This ensures everything stays in place and leaves a flap to secure the bottom of the cat bed in place with your fixing of choice e.g. poppers, Velcro. Step 5 I used large metal capped poppers to keep the bottom in place these photos show placement and how to fit The bottom can be taken off to wash or to use as a little mat on a sofa or chair. The bolster roll folds around the bottom on 3 sides and fixes in place loosely. The main bed can be used with either the quilted cotton side facing up for your furry friend to lie on or the soft dimple fabric. Finally, I made a stuffed cushion in the same fabrics and it can be snuggly fitted into the bed for yet more comfort. It’s a simple pillow sized to fit. It's filled with polyester stuffing and securely sewn closed for washing purposes. Made by Marie Pickles for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Stephanie Marsh Sew your own newborn baby quilt. This design and colours are perfect for when you're unsure if someones expecting a boy or a girl. You will need: 4 FQ - I used 'Rainbow Etchings' by Stuart Hillard and Craft Cotton Co 1 piece brown cotton Wadding Dimple Fleece Threads Bondaweb or interfacing Instructions 1. Cut 8.5” squares as follows: 2 x light blue 4 x green 4 x dark blue Also cut 1 x 8.5” x 16.5” in light blue and 1 x 8.5” x 2” in brown. 2. To make the patch with the tree trunk cut a light blue patch in half from top to bottom, place the brown strip in the middle and sew the light blue fabric to either side on it, press seam allowances onto the back of the brown. 3. Sew the patches together as below. Initially start with sewing the patches onto either side of the larger light blue patch, then sew the rows together, press the seam allowances to one side, then sew the rows together. 4. To make the sun draw a template on a 7” square piece of paper, I folded in half, half again and then half again (like when you make snowflakes at school), cut the edge curved then cut into it to make it like a castle. 5. Draw around this onto bondaweb or interfacing, trim around it, but not exact. Iron onto the back of the yellow fabric. Cut out exact. 6. If using bondaweb score off the paper backing and press onto the centre of the quilt. If using interfacing pin in place, use plenty of pins. Now applique it in place, you can use a close narrow zigzag stitch or a decorative stitch. I used a blanket stitch. 7. Lay the wadding out smoothly, then lay the patchwork on top, right side facing upwards. Smooth over using your hands. You can either hold this together by using a temporary glue (specially designed not to clog up your sewing machine), pin or safety pins. I used safety pins. 8. Using a larger stitch, stitch on the seam lines (this is known as stitch in the ditch), apart from either side of the tree trunk. I used a contrast (yellow) thread. 9. Take out all the safety pins and place the quilted work on top of the fleece, wrong sides together. Use the safety pins again to hold in place. Put piece of work to once side. 10. Using the remainder of the yellow fabric, cut bias strips 2” wide. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press. 11. On the top side of the quilt pin the bias strip through both layers of the strip and all the layers of the quilt with raw edge matching. Do the sides, then press over the raw edges, hand stitch in place, then do the same with the top and the bottom. 12. Press from the patchwork side. To see more from Stephanie, visit her Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Caroline Devonport This is a very simple and quick bonnet tutorial that you can make with fat quarters. You will need the following materials: 3 Fat Quarters Small length of Ribbon Matching or coordinating thread Start by cutting the fabric as below. 2 Bonnet pieces approx 40cm X 22cm 2 Ruffle pieces approx 55cm X 9cm 2 Tie pieces approx 55cm x 7cm 1 Binding piece approx 42cm X 4cm Apply Interfacing to the wrong side of one of the Bonnet pieces. Next join two pieces of ruffle together along short sides to create one long strip. Press seam flat. Next take tie pieces and stitch to create a tube, I decided to make the ends pointed. One stitched turn out the right way, I like to use a tube and stick as shown in the photos below. Once ties are the right way out, press. Next pin ruffle to one side of the bonnet, pleat ruffle around the corners for a nice finish, I did not add enough pleats at this point, then pleat along full edge. Then stitch close to edge, take this slowly as there are a few layers of fabric. The pin ties into place, cover with other bonnet piece and stitch along ruffle edge before stitching along short sides. Trim excess. Turn out right way and press. Stitch open end closed. Fold binding piece as shown, alternatively use ready made wide bias binding. Tuck ends in and press. Open one fold and with the right together pin along the back edge. The stitch along the fold line. Next fold over the back edge to encase in the binding and top stitch or hand stitch in place. Next you need to insert ribbon. I used a bodkin, but you could use a safety pin or nappy pin. One ribbon is inserted it is very important that you secure it in place I like to through all layers in the middle of the binding, then give the ribbon a good tug to make sure it is safe. Bonnet is now complete, ribbon can be tightened, the tighter the ribbon the smaller the bonnet. To see more from Caroline, visit her on Instagram @the_sewing_pirate and @carolinescostume Made by Caroline Devonport for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Gill Rich This messenger is bag ideal for all the school essentials plus matching pencil case. You will need the following: Two co-ordinating fabrics, I chose from the Natural History Museum collection from Cotton Craft Co. Bosal Co-ordinating thread Magnetic snap fastener Medium weight iron on interfacing Tape measure/Ruler Fabric marker 10” zip fastener NOTE : Use a 1/2 ” seam allowance throughout Firstly, cut your fabrics as follow for the bag: For the outer bag two pieces 15” x 10.5”, for the flap one piece 12.5” x 9”, for the inside pocket, one piece 11” x 11”. From the lining fabric two pieces 15 x 10.5”, for the flap one piece 12.5” x 9” Cut your Bosal 14” x 9.5”. I cut this ½” smaller all the way round to reduce bulk in the seams. For the handles cut one piece of fabric 34” x 4” wide and one piece of interfacing 34” x 2”. To make the outer bag, take your two exterior pieces and stitch down the sides and along the bottom. Iron on the fusible fleece according to the manufacturer’s instructions on the wrong side of the fabric Next you need to box the corners; with the two outer pieces, place the side seam along the seam on the bottom creating a triangle. With your ruler and marker, place the ruler to measure two inches from side to side and draw a line. Sew along the line making sure that you secure your stitches on either side. Trim to within ¼” of your seam. Repeat for the other side. You will now need to add half of the magnetic snap fastener. Measure down from the top edge 7” and find the middle measurement across your width. Using your fabric marker, mark a placement dot. Carefully cut two small cuts the width of the prongs on the snap fastener. Insert the prongs from the front of the bag and place the washer on the back. Fold down the two prongs so that they are flat. I usually place a piece of heavy weight iron on interfacing on the back so that the prongs don’t pierce your lining. The next step is to make the pocket. Fold your fabric in half with right sides together. Stitch along one short side, across the long side and half way down the other side. Trim the seam and cut off the corners. Now turn it right sides out and press the seams. Press the seam inside the pocket where you left the turning gap. Take a piece of your interior fabric and place the pocket centrally across the width and 2” from the top edge. Topstitch along the two sides and across the bottom, closing the turning gap. You can if you wish divide the pocket into sections. I stitched down the middle and then in the middle of the left section, making three pockets. Take your two interior pieces and with right sides together and stitch the sides seams and across the bottom leaving a gap of about 6” for turning out. Box the corners in the same way as you did for the exterior pieces. To make the flap, iron on your interfacing on one of the pieces. I made the corners rounded by drawing around a glass on the corner. Then place your flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the two sides and across the bottom leaving the top edge open. Turn right sides out and press making sure that your seams are fully open. Topstitch about 3mm from the edge around the three sides. Before you stitch the flap on the bag, you need to add the second part of the snap fastener. Decide which way round you would like your flap. I did mine so that the fabric I chose for the lining, was on the outside. Pin the flap onto the back of the bag and fold it over so that it comes across to the front. With your marker, make a dot where the snap fastener meets the other part on the front. Attach this part in the same way as you did for the first part. Baste the flap on the back edge so that it hangs down, making sure that it is central across the top. Before you attach the lining to the bag you need to make your handles. Iron on your interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric down the middle. Fold it in half lengthwise and press on the crease. Open it out and fold the raw edge to the central crease on both sides and press again. Now fold in half and stitch along both of the long edges about 3mm from the edge. Baste your handle on the outside seam of the bag exterior on both sides. Nearly there! With your bag lining inside out and your exterior right sides out, place the exterior bag inside the bag lining. You need to make sure that the flap and the handle are tucked right inside the bag so that they don’t get caught when you stitch them together. You may need to do a bit of wriggling around to get the edges together. Pin or use clips to hold them in place. Stitch the bag pieces together all the way round the top. You might find it easier to sew from the inside. You will now see why the fusible fleece is ½” smaller so that it is less bulky. Once you have stitched around the top edge. Turn the bag right side out through the gap in the lining. Again you might have to wriggle it a lot as it is quite bulky. Fold in the lining all the way inside so that your seam on the top is flat, again pin or clip in place. Topstitch all the way round about 3mm from the edge. Give your bag a good press and there you have your messenger bag that any child would be proud to take to school!! Next you need to make your matching pencil case. Firstly you need to cut your fabrics. Cut two rectangles from each fabric measuring 10.5” x 6.5”. Apply your interfacing to the wrong side of your exterior fabric following the manufacturer’s instructions. Once your fabric is cut, you need to place the zip in. Place one piece of your inner fabric right side up then place the zip on the top edge with the zipper pull on the top. You then need to place your exterior piece right side down on top of the zip so that all the edges meet. Using your zipper foot, stitch down the side of the zip as close as possible to the teeth. When you get near the zipper pull, put your needle down, lift the presser foot and move to open the zip slightly then carry on stitching to the end. You now need to repeat this step for the other side of the zip. Open out and press. You may want to top stitch close to the zip. Now, fold along the zip so that the exterior fabric pieces are right sides together on the insides and the inner fabric is on the outside with right side out. Now, stitch along the long raw edge and finish off the edges with a zig zag stitch or with your overlocker. Then fold it so that the zipper is in the centre, ensuring that all your fabrics are smooth and not creased. (Note your zipper pull is on the inside). Sew along the short edges enclosing the zipper end. Again, finish off with a zig zag stitch or your overlocker. Now box the corners in the same way as you did for the messenger bag but note there are four corners to box. Pull it all so that the right side is on the outside, press and there you have a cute little pencil case for all your stationary needs! To see more from Gill, visit her Instagram @designbygill66 Made by Gill Rich for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Katie Done I have recently been given the exciting opportunity to test out a Janome 6234XL Overlocker. It has been perfectly timed with the arrival of some new organic jersey from the Craft Cotton Company. The first one I have had a play with is the white and black clouds, perfect for my new arrival due very soon. I have started with a very easy baby hat project that anyone can do. Although I have used my overlocker, you can use a regular sewing machine for this project, and I will explain how. This is the first of many new arrival projects I have under my belt. First a bit about the jersey. I appreciate it is hard one to buy online because you want to get a feel for it. Seeing how it stretches and sews up is really important when buying jersey which is another reason I lover to write up these tutorials. This particular jersey is a mix of 96% cotton and 4% spandex, it is knitted together, not like the woven cotton, it is this combination that gives it the stretch. I make it out to be around 30% stretch. Although it seems a bit scary at first, it is very satisfying once you get your head around working with it and you will soon be as hooked as I am. YOU WILL NEED Jersey Fabric Pattern Weights Pins or Clips Rotary Cutter or Scissors Pattern Overlocker (or sewing machine) METHOD 1. First print your pattern and cut your fabric. You should be able to copy the pattern image onto a word document and print it off. There is a 1" guide mark to ensure you get the right size. You will only need a small amount so this project is a great way to use up fabrics from another bigger project. Fold the fabric in half ensuring it is straight, place the pattern template on the fold of the fabric. Hold in place with pattern weights. I use simple stones I have collected, some I have just decoupaged so they look pretty. You will need two of these. You will also need two strips measuring 2" x 8". 2. Fold the strips in half along the long edge and pin or clip them to the wrong side of the fabric. 3. I have used a 1/4" seam allowance and sewn them using my overlocker. If you are using a sewing machine you can use a narrow zig zag stitch or your machine may have a stitch that looks like lightning, these stitches allow the fabric to stretch without the thread breaking. Jersey doesn't tend to fray so you don't need to finish the edges, but you can use an over edge or zig zag stitch to finish your edges if you prefer 4. Fold the rim of the hat to the front and place the two pieces right sides together. Pink or clip and sew all the way around. If you have over locked your seams, thread the loose ends. Turn the right way. The pointy bit at the top is not a telly tubby style fashion statement. Simply knot it and you are done. To see more from Katie, visit her blog The Fabric Squirrel and on Instagram @thefabricsquirrel Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Company 2020