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This adorable apron uses The Craft Cotton Company’s fabrics in lovely Christmas prints. It is made with extra-long straps to fit a variety of waist sizes and a small pocket perfect for keeping recipes or a cheeky handful of sweets in for little children and big children alike. You will need: 2 rectangles of fabric 28inch x 15inch for the main body (I used a gingerbread fabric) 2 long rectangles 45inch x 5inch for the strap (I used snowman fabric) 2 5inch x 6inch rectangles for the pocket (here I used snowman fabric again) A sewing machine Thread Scissors A hand sewing needle Pins Iron The Craft Cotton Company’s Snowman and Gingerbread Man polycottons First, cut your fabric: Cut your fabric pieces. Place the pocket pieces right sides together and pin and sew around the edge, making sure to leave a gap at the bottom to turn through. Clip the corners of the piece and turn the pocket piece through the gap you left (so the right side is now showing) and slip stitch the opening closed by hand. Then press flat. Next, pin the pocket pieces and sew: Pin the pocket piece to the centre of one of the front apron pieces. Sew around the two sides of the pocket piece and the bottom to make a pocket. If you move your needle to the left you'll be left with a cleaner finish. Pin the front and back pieces of the apron right sides together, and sew leaving a gap at the top edge to turn through. Clip the corners and turn through. And then slip-stitch the opening close. Now, make the ribbon: Pin and stitch the two short ends of your rectangle pieces together and sew. Then press a 1cm hem around all four edges of the strap. Fold the strap in half length-ways and press down the middle (all of your edges should be tucked in). Mark 8 inches either side of the join line on the strap piece. Sew the strap to the body: Gather the top edge of the apron using a long basting stitch on the machine (I find it helps to do 2 or 3 rows of gathering stitches in case one snaps). Gather until the apron top measures 16 inches. Place the apron front between the two layers of the strap making sure all the gathered edge is enclosed and pin. The apron front will fit in between the two marks on the apron strap you made previously. Using a normal stitch length, top stitch around all four sides of the strap edge about 4mm from the edge making sure to catch the apron front between the layers. Trim any stray threads and give a final press. And finally: Put on and make a cake and dance around the kitchen to Christmas songs © By Frankie Carson at KnitWitsOwls for The Craft Cotton Company 2015 #freesewingtutorials #craftcottonco #christmas #seasonal #dressmaking

Keep the car tidy and your little ones occupied. It can be done with this simple tidy. Requirements 1 metre cotton (main fabric) ½ metre cotton for binding ¼ metre wadding and ½ metre of heavy interfacing OR 1 metre of fusible foam (approx.) 1 metre nylon webbing 1” wide 1 metre twill tape (to match your car tidy) 2 x 1” D Rings Rotary cutter, cutting mat, quilting ruler, scissors, sewing machine, iron, pressing board, pins, quilting clips, marking pencil/pen, seam ripper, piece of card and a lid/plate to make a template for rounded corners or to cut around. Cutting List Main Fabric Main Body; 2 pieces 21”x13” Pockets; Top pocket 8” x 13” finishes at 4” deep Centre pocket 9” x 17” finishes at 4½” deep Bottom pocket 12” x 17” finishes at 6” deep Cut fabric Binding Fabric; Cut 6 2 ½”x Width of Fabric Nylon Webbing; measure around the head restraint and add 10” cut this length, using a lighter lightly burn the ends of the webbing sealing it to ensure it doesn’t unravel. Twill Tape; measure around the seat back level with the seat cushion and add 20” cut the tape to size. Depending on your choice of interfacing/wadding/stabiliser; the cutting instructions differ, please use whichever instructions are relevant. Interfacing/wadding Cut heavy interfacing 1 x 21”x13” and fuse to the main fabric back, if you want the back to be stiffer, cut 2 pieces of interfacing and fuse them together then fuse this to the main fabric (back), allow to cool and (* OPTIONAL see point 12) fuse the front and set aside. Cut wadding: Top pocket 8” x 13” Centre pocket 9” x 17” Bottom pocket 12” x 17” Foam stabilizer cut 1 piece 21”x13” – fuse main fabric to one side, allow to cool then (* OPTIONAL see point 12) fuse the other side and again allow to cool. cut Top pocket 4” x 13” cut Centre pocket 4½” ” x 17” cut Bottom pocket 6” x 17” You now have a firm, piece of fabric, finished on both sides to fix the pockets and strapping to. Make Rounded Corners 1. Make a template to round off the corners OR use a small plate or lid. It keeps the corners tidy and stops them from curling over. 2. Taking the caddy back, cut around the outside edge of each corner using the template/plate/lid and set aside. 3. Using the contrast fabric and the 6 x 2 ½ “ strips, sew these together using a diagonal seam and then iron (with seams open). Then lightly press the strip in half lengthwise with seams facing in, open again and refold so the outside edges of the seams now both touch the centre along the line that you have ironed previously, press this strip well, it now is like regular bias binding. Iron binding Using the binding strips, cut; 1 x 14" length for the open edge of the top pocket 2 x 18" lengths for the open edges of the centre pocket and bottom pockets The remaining length is for the perimeter of the caddy. 4. Using the fabric for the top pocket (8” x 13”) lay the fabric with the wrong side facing you, now lay the wadding or foam on the long side and fold the fabric over to create a sandwich (with one open side). If you are using wadding you will want to pin this, if using foam you need to press this well on both sides to fuse the fabric to the foam. 5. Slip the 14" length of binding over the raw edge of the top pocket and pin or clip, this encases the raw edge within the binding. 6. Now sew along the binding and ensure you catch both sides of the binding. You might want to lengthen the stitch length a little. Sew Binding 7. Repeat this for both the centre and bottom pockets using 17” lengths of binding. 8. To create the 2 pleats in each of the 2 lower pockets, measure and mark 4½” from each side of the pockets using pins or a pencil. Now make additional marks at 1” on either side of the original mark, so you now should have 2 sets of 3 marks starting at 3½” from each side, and the marks are 1” apart. 3 pins 1” apart to make a pleat 9. To make the pleats you need to grasp the centre pin and fold each of the outer pins inwards so it sits on top of the centre pin. Pin this firmly thereby creating an inverted box pleat. Pleats secured and ready to sew 10. To hold the pleats in place through the rest of the construction, stitch along the pocket where the fabrics overlap and secure these with a few backstitches through all the layers. Sew over folded fabrics to secure the pleats 11. You can sew down vertically within the pleats to sub divide the pockets. If you do this, make sure the thread you use tones with your background fabric. I wanted to have somewhere for coloured pencils and small snacks so I sewed down the centre of each pleat creating smaller pockets. You could make a slim slot for a pencil or pen or leave larger pockets to store books its all up to you. pockets positioned over back prior to being stitched in place 12. The 3 long pockets need to be positioned with pins prior to being sewn onto the back. Lay them out and try putting some items into them to make sure they will work for you before you secure them. Sew them horizontally across the caddy then sew down each side again backstitching top and bottom to make the seams strong. (* you can leave the backing off the caddy back and fuse it as this stage thereby hiding all the stitching, its up to you). 13. The binding needs to be fixed to the circumference of the caddy, decide on a point on the bottom left and leaving a tail of 6”, start to pin or clip the binding in place. Continue working around the caddy finishing with another tail of 6”. Binding the circumference 14. Sew the binding carefully making sure both top and bottom are caught in the stitching. Work around the corners manipulating the fabric to ensure it lies as flat as possible. Binding round all edges 15. Flip the caddy so pockets are facing down. Lay the nylon wedding along the top edge – just under the binding, leaving approximately a 7” tail on one side. Pin in place. Test the caddy insitu and check exactly the length required. Allow for sufficient to go around the head restraint and go through a set of D rings with an additional 6-7”. Taking the short end, pop the D rings over and pass the webbing through to the underside. This should be secured with 3 or 4 rows of stitching. If end has been cut, seal it with a hot flame to prevent fraying. Webbing sewn in place along the top edge Webbing showing the D rings This webbing can be fed around the head restraint and secured through the D rings holding the caddy in place. Webbing threaded through head restraints 16. Finally take the twill tape and sew it in place at the opposite end to the nylon webbing, it needs to be long enough to go around the seat and be tied. twill tape in place at seat level Now all you have to do it fill the caddy and let your little people enjoy…. (or pop it onto the front seat and fill it for your own long journey….. just a thought ….) Finished caddy By Marie Pickles for The Craft Cotton Company 2017 #car #sewing #sew #freesewingtutorials

If you don't want a boring shop-bought garland or decoration this year, have a look at this star tutorial! This tutorial is based on a project in the book Sew Quick, Sew Cute. Click here to see the tutorial. © by Jennifer Cockcroft at Knit, Sew, Grow for The Craft Cotton Company 2015 #freesewingtutorials #craftcottonco #christmas #patchwork #seasonal

Designed and pieced by Michelle Roberts at creativeblonde for Craftcotton, using the beautiful new Flora and Fauna fabric with a pattern by Latifah Saafir These beautiful flora and fauna fabrics have created the most stunning clam quilt, a pretty collection of pinks, purples, and blues. Finished size of Quilt – baby size 48” x 54” Materials • Half a meter of each of the 10 designs in this collection from craftcotton • 50” x 56” piece of cotton premium batting from craftcotton • 40” x 44” extra piece of the teal with dark purple flowers fabric • 1.5 metres of grey textured blenders from craftcotton • ‘Latifah Saafir studios’ pattern/instructions and 6” clammy • Gutermann thread, in grey Col 1295 and pink variegated Col 4032 Cutting • (15) 6” whole clams in pink textured blend • (9) 6” whole clams in pink and white flowers • (104) 6” whole clams in a variety of the other fabrics. • Using the Latifah saafir pattern, cut the remaining 34 partial clams Haberdashery items • Iron-away marker pen, permanent fine tip marker • Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors • Iron • basic sewing supplies • pins • Baste spray CREATIVEBLONDE TIP Mark all the points through the holes in the clammy on every clam, using a permanent fine tip marker – this will help so much when sewing the clams together Step 1 - Making the Glam Clam Quilt Once all your clams are cut out, remember you can fold your fabric and cut out multiple clams at one time, just make sure your happy with the direction of the fabric. Cut small pieces of paper marked 1 to 19, lay out your quilt and pin the clams in rows. This will help when you are sewing the pink clams to create the heart shape in the centre. Step 2 Begin by sewing together the ‘B1’ and ‘C’s and finishing with ‘B2’ for the first row. Then you can begin adding each row, remember to mark the points using the ‘clammy’, and these are what you use to match up and then sew together. No need for lots pins or paper piecing The varigated pink/purple gutermann thread is perfect for sewing this quilt together To get your head around how these are sewn together, the following photo is a must have, it shows you the placement of how you pin each clam in a row. Step 2 Fabrics are pinned right sides together, with the new row pointing up, you then tease the clam around, matching up the points as you go. Press your seams towards the point of the clam on the reverse. Keep going until you reach row 19. I promise you it does start to come together quite quickly, especially as you get the hang of matching the seams. I held my quilt up into the mirror after each row, to check I was happy with the placement of each clam. Step 3 The front of your clam quilt is complete, trim your quilt, leaving it ½” bigger all the way round, then the pattern requires. Step 4 To create the back of your quilt, take your 1.5 metres of the grey blended fabric, and cut four strips. 2 measuring 9”x52” 2 measuring 9”x44” Sew these to the extra piece of fabric (teal and dark purple) Step 5 Create your quilt sandwich, using the batting. The backing will be 1 ¼” bigger than the batting and front of the quilt Using an iron-away pen, draw 4” hearts in random places and using the same pink variegated Gutermann thread, hand-quilt your quilt. Step 6 Press your extra fabric in half and in half again, all the way round. Use pins or binding clips to hold this in place, while you hand-sew the binding using the grey thread Step 7 Trim the corners, to remove the excess bulk, and create a diagonal seam Your quilt is complete… Made by Michelle Roberts for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 Visit Michelle's blog here and follow her on Instagram here #quilt #babyquilt #quilting #clam #sewing #freesewingtutorials

Finished sizes measures 10” x 9” 5” x 4.5” Download template here Understanding the template The printed side of your template will be the reverse side of your finished block. The dotted outside lines are the seam allowances (1/4”). The solid black lines are the sew lines. The numbers show the order of sewing. Seam Allowances are ¼” unless otherwise stated RST = right sides together Step 1 To start, print and cut the 2 templates out and shorten your stitch length on your sewing machine to 1.8 or shorter, this will make it easier to tear off the paper at the end. Step 2 On the reverse side of your template place a tiny dot of temporary glue in the middle of A1 and place your fabric on top (if you have chosen a print fabric this need to be right side facing up) ensure the shape is covered with at least ¼” extra all the way around (a good way to check is to hold your template up to the light) Step 3 Turn your template back over and using a ruler along the line between A1 and A2 fold the paper back and trim the fabric down to ¼” using a rotary cutter and cutting mat. Step 4 Fold the paper back out and place your fabric for A2 RST against the edge you just cut, ensuring your piece of fabric will cover the whole of A2 plus ¼” seam allowances and pin into place. Step 5 At your sewing machine sew along and slightly pass the line in-between sections A1 and A2 using a back stitch at the beginning and end, sewing over the line slightly will ensure the fabric will be caught in the next seam. Press the fabric open using an iron. Step 6 Back at your cutting mat gently fold the paper back on the line A3 and trim a ¼”. Place your fabric for A3 on top as you did in steps 5 and 6. Continue on in this manner in number order until all of your sections are pieced making sure you are adding enough fabric for each shape as you go. Step 7 Once your sections are complete, trim the templates to the outer dotted line to remove the excess fabric. Step 8 Place template A on top of Template B with Fabrics RST and sew along the solid black line. Step 9 Gently remove the paper from the back and press the seam open. Your heart is now complete. By Joanne Hart for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 Follow her on Instagram @unicornharts #paperpiercing #hearts #sewing #freesewingtutorials

Perfect for hanging out ready for Santa’s arrival this Christmas is a patchwork stocking. I’ve made sure to have made mine with plenty of time to spare this year, I don’t want to be late and have my presents falling out the bottom of my old one! What you will need: Pins Scissors Pencil Needle and thread Sewing machine Paper for the pattern The Craft Cotton Company Ski Penguin fat quarter set, Heritage Wadding, Plain-Dyed cotton First, make the stocking pattern: Draw a pattern outline for your stocking, making it as big or as small as you like. I fluted mine out a bit at the top as I like it wider at the top for when folding back. Make 2 copies of this pattern, one is for the lining, wadding lining and wadding pieces (that will be left whole), and the other is for the front and back fabric patchwork. Cut this piece into three to make the stocking template. Next, cut out the fabric: Make sure you allow 5mm seam allowance throughout. Using the whole stocking pattern piece cut out the following; two pieces of fat quarter fabric for the lining, two pieces of wadding and two pieces of lining fabric for the wadding. Then, for the 3-sectioned stocking template cut out 2 pieces of fabric for each section (one each for the back and front so you’ll have six pieces in total). Make sure when cutting the sectioned pieces and when using different colours for each side of the lining that you have the patterned side of the fabric facing up for the front pieces and the patterned side down for the back pieces. Sew the three parts together: Place the bottom, middle and front piece right-sides together and sew down the seam to join them, and then attach the top and middle pieces by placing right sides together and sewing along the seam. Repeat for the back. Next, add the detail: Place the patterned fabric wadding and wadding lining together and pin to secure in place. I chose to add a snowflake detailing using a pre-set stitch on my sewing machine, but you could do zig zags, straight lines or any other patterns that you like. I went down each of the seams with this stitch detail and then diagonally across each of the sections. I also chose to use two different thread colours, one light blue for going down the seams and a teal colour for the other lines. Now make the hanger: Pick one of the fabrics to make the hanger, I chose to use the green snowflake, and cut a strip measuring 24cm x 6cm. Fold the strip in half with right-sides facing and sew along the bottom and up the side leaving the top unsewn. Turn right way out and you have got your strap. Before sewing the front and back together, fold the strip in half longways to make the loop and pin to the back piece with the ends of the loop hanging 1cm over the edge of the back piece. I chose to place this 10cm down from the top edge to give enough space once the top edge was turned back over. Sewing the front and back together: Pin the front and back pieces together right-sides together - the loop will be on the inside. Now sew the whole way around but leave the top edge unseen. Turn the right way around. Finally, make and attach the lining: Take the front and back lining pieces, place them right-sides together and sew around, leaving the top edge unsewn. This lining can now be inserted into the stocking, to attach it to the stocking fold the top of the stocking inward by 1cm and fold 1cm of the stocking lining outwards and slip stitch the two edges together. Now it’s all set and ready to hang out on Christmas eve! © by Lesley Foster at Hook, Stitch, Sew for The Craft Cotton Company 2015 #freesewingtutorials #craftcottonco #christmas #patchwork #seasonal

Perfect Christmas decorations for the home… The cutest little Christmas cushions, so adorable they are a must for everyone this Christmas. I’ve made mine for my cat’s bed… Materials Fat Quarter bundle of 'Heritage Christmas' collection Fat Quarter on interfacing 2 yards of 'Circle Fur' if you're making the cat bed too Guttermann Cotton 30 Thread - colour 1001 Toy Stuffing fluff 10" x 1/4" of silver ribbon 19" cat bed from Bosal Cutting 45” diameter circle from the cream circle fur 22” diameter circle from the cream circle fur 4 ½” Christmas stocking template Haberdashery items • Iron-away marker pen • Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors • Iron • glue pen • basic sewing supplies Finished size of each cushion: 8”x 8” CREATIVEBLONDE TIP Don’t wear black trousers when cutting the circle fur - lol Making the Cat Bed Once your two circles are cut out, place strong fabric glue on the bottom of the cat bed, and then press down in the centre of the larger circle. Apply the glue around the sides, and carefully pull up and over the circle fur,at regular 5” interval, make a fold in the circle fur – this gives it a very lush and cosy look Glue all the edges inside the cat bed, I used a little glitter glue in places,to give the cat bed a little sparkle Take the 22” circle, and mark a 18” circle in the centre, fold and glue this excess fur over. Then top stitch all the way round Glue along the edge, and press inside the cat bed. Leave to dry overnight. Let's make the cute cushions Take you stocking template, and draw round it onto the interlining, do this twice. Cut out and iron on to the penguin fabric – I fussy cut mine, so the two penguins were central on the truck of the stocking. Cut small rectangles from the remaining circle fur for the tops of the stocking. With a little glue, fix the circle fur stocking tops to the top of the stocking fabric – see photo below Take you blue stag fabric and red snowflake fabric, and cut two 8” squares from each. Taking one of each colour, place a stocking on each – take note of the direction of fabric… Cut a 3” piece of silver ribbon, and hold in place, with the ends tucked under the applique and blanket stitch using the Gutermann cotton thread around the whole stocking Take the opposite colour of fabric and with right sides together, sew ¼” seam around the edge of the cushion, leaving a 3” gap in the bottom edge for stuffing. Press, and turn right way out, press seams again, and stuff . When you are happy with the fullness, hand sew up the gap using a ladder stitch. Your cute cushions are ready, I think these are adorable, especially with the extra circle fur on the top of the stockings. I've made two, and within minutes of finishing them, I've already been asked to make more. Thanks for reading from x creativeblonde x This Cute Christmas cushions, cat bed and tutorial has been created by me - creativeblonde for the Craft Cotton Co 2017 To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/creativeblonde66 and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 #christmas #cat #pets #bed #stockings #cushions #freesewingtutorials #seasonal #home

Go traditional this season, and have a go at quilting a Christmas stocking in classic Christmas colours. I would heartily recommend a rotary cutting wheel and a cutting board for this project as it will make it so much easier, but you can, of course, use scissors if you prefer. For the full tutorial please click here #christmas #stocking #fatquarter #sewing #freesewingtutorials #seasonal

Visit Bernie's blog for detailed step by step instructions on how to make the quilt. #quilt #intothewoods #babyquilt #quilting #freesewingtutorials

Cutlery holders are a great idea for Christmas sewing projects this year! It's the perfect way to dress you're Christmas table with a personalised Christmas touch. What you will need: Fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company in Canvas Stag Ribbon to make bows Paper Pencil Pins Thread Needle Scissors First, cut out your template and fabrics: Draw and cut out paper template for the stocking. These can be any size you choose to make them; depending on how much cutlery you need to put in them. Cut out the fabric. For each stocking you will need 2 pieces of the same for the front and back, and two pieces of a different fabric for the lining. When cutting out the fabric for the front and back of the main stocking pieces and the lining pieces, make sure you cut out one piece of fabric right side facing up and the other with right side facing down. Next, sew the fabrics together: Sew the front and back pieces with right sides facing together. Sew the lining pieces with right sides facing together. Now, sew in the lining: Turn the lining so it's right sides are facing out and place into the un-turned stocking so that the right sides of the stocking lining are facing the right sides of the outer stocking. Line up and pin the top edges of the lining and stocking. Sew around the top edge leaving a 3 cm gap un-sewn. Turn the stocking out the right way through the un-sewn gap on the top edge. Push the lining into the stocking. Finally, slip-stitch and add bow: Fold in the top un-sewn edges and slip stitch close the gap. Make bows and sew to the top of the stocking. © by Lesley Foster at Hook, Stitch, Sew for The Craft Cotton Company 2016 #christmas #freesewingtutorials #craftcottonco #kitchen #seasonal

Add a bit of hand-sewn style to your Christmas table with these festive cutlery wraps! Made from cotton fat quarters, they’re perfect for making your dinner special but also super easy to wash if they get a little gravy on… For the full tutorial please click here #decoration #christmas #fatquarter #freesewingtutorials #seasonal

Love quilting? Then why not have a go at making a "crazy quilted" style stocking for Christmas this year! Crazy quilting involved randomly cut sized pieces of fabrics as opposed to matching shapes to the size of all your fabric pieces. It's great when you don't want to follow a pattern and use up any of those fabric scraps that have been lying around! Want to find out more? Click here to see the tutorial By Hobbycraft #christmas #hobbycraft #craftcottonco #freesewingtutorials #seasonal