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Use up those fabric scraps with this quick and easy fabric wreath... What you will need: Craft Cotton Company supplies: Days by the sea fabrics Other supplies: Polystyrene wreath ring Hot glue gun Ribbon Directions for fabric wreath: Step 1: Using your rotary cutter and ruler, cut your patterned fabric into strips 1 ½” wide Cut the strips into pieces approximately 4” long Step 2: Put a small dot of glue onto the centre back of a fabric piece, pop onto the polystyrene ring then push down into the polystyrene using a crochet hook/pencil/pokey tool or similar. Step 3: Continue to repeat this, positioning the fabric pieces quite close together to give a full, fluffy wreath effect. This can be entirely random, or if desired, fabric pattern placement can be used to create a specific design on your wreath. Step 4: Continue with the remainder of the fabric pieces until all of the polystyrene is covered and you see no gaps when you brush across the fabrics with your hand. Step 5: Add a ribbon hanging loop and finish off with a fancy bow for decoration Your wreath is now complete! By Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Company 2017 #wreath #scraps #freesewingtutorials #seasonal

This beautiful cushion was made by @unicornharts using Craft Cotton fabrics and Diary of a Quilter pattern: Patchwork Tree Quilt Block Tutorial #christmas #patchwork #cushions #freesewingtutorials #seasonal

I've been asked to make techniques videos showing how to sew in a bag base and make a cube, so this tutorial covers both! The cube is useful storage for anything from your sewing bits to toys, try making a few in different sizes! #tidy #box #bag #intothewoods #video #debbieshore #freesewingtutorials #accessories

I've been asked to make techniques videos showing how to sew in a bag base and make a cube, so this tutorial covers both! The cube is useful storage for anything from your sewing bits to toys, try making a few in different sizes! #tidy #box #bag #intothewoods #video #debbieshore #freesewingtutorials #accessories

I have included three version of this tail so you can vary the tutorial to your skill level or project. All look really cool and it is hard to resist not running around in them! Use a non-stretch fabric for best results, I used a mixture of cotton and polycotton which I find works best! WHAT YOU NEED Fabric Scissors Pins Something to measure with (I used a measuring tape) Something to mark fabric (I used tailors chalk) Sewing machine Thread Stuffing Hook and loop tape OR elastic Needle (Optional) FABRIC CUTS Tail body: cut 2 rectangles I used 22″ x 10″ Tail back: cut 1 circle 7″ in diameter Spikes: cut 2 rectangles 22″ x 3.5″ If using waist straps with hook and loop tape: cut 4 12″ x 3″ (this length measurement my need to be adjusted depending on waist size) INSTRUCTIONS Tail body 1. Take your two strips, lay them together and fold in half-length ways and pin. From approximately 4″ along the length with no fold, draw a straight diagonal line to approximately 1″ above the fold on the short edge. Cut along this line and you should be left with two cone shapes for the tail body. Spikes 2. Lay the fabric strips right sides together and pin in place. Draw a row of triangles along the strip for the tail spikes with approximately 1/2″ spacing between each triangle making the spikes shorter towards the end of the strip and leaving a 1/2″ fabric row at the base. Sew just outside your spike line and then trim the excess fabric. Turn the strip of spikes right side out. Iron flat for easier sewing. Sew Tail Body 3. Pin the largest spike to the tall side of your tail piece, lining up the raw edges. Now lay the second tail piece with right sides together, pin in place and sew. Open the tail out and check the spikes are in place. Refold the tail so the right sides are together again, pin in place and sew. Sew the smaller end of the tail with a curve rather than straight corners. Waist Straps/elastic 4. If using elastic, pin the elastic ends to the right side facing side of the tail body and sew in place. This will mean that once the tail is backed, the elastic edges will be inside the tail body. If using fabric straps, put two strips right sides together and sew along the edges. Repeat for the other two strip to give you two straps. Turn the straps the right way round and sew the hook and tape tap to each end. Pin the straps to the right side facing side of the tail body and sew in place making sure one waist strap has the tape side down and the other tape side up. This will mean that the hook and loop tape is the correct way round and that once the tail is backed, the strap edges will be inside the tail body. Tail backing 5. If you used a different sized tail body here is how to work out what size circle you need. Lie the tail flat and measure across the width of the opening, this measurement will help us get a circle the correct size for the tail back. Double this measurement and divide the result by 3.141. Fold the fabric in to quarters and from the central folded corner, measure this length away plus seam allowance and mark out moving round in an arc to create a curve. Once you have a quarter circle, cut out. Pin the circle right side facing into the tail to the opening and sew around leaving a gap big enough for your hand to fit though so you can stuff it! Stuff and Finish 6. Turn your tail right side out through the hole you left. Now stuff your tail! Once fully stuffed, pin the hole closed and sew shut. You can do this by machine or hand sew. Adaptation 1 – Coloured Belly Follow the tutorial in the same way however split the top section of the body and sew spikes between these two fabric pieces. Adaptation 2 – Scaled This adaption takes a lot of time cutting and frustration but the end result is worth it! In order to create the scale affect you will need to attach the scales to the tail body section before sewing together. Cut out your scale rows in a similar way to the spikes however keep the triangles the same size . I cut out 8 rows at a time however you may need more depending on your tail body size. Don't bin the triangle of cuts as you can use these later. Once the scales rows have been cut out you can lay the scales rows on to the body using the ½” row as a guide and pin in place. Once all the rows have been used trim of the row excess and use these to continue filling the body. Once the body sections are filled, sew each scale row in place along the ½ row guide. Once the whole body section has been filled, check the scale.. Now, for any visible stitching or spaces that may have appeared take the off cut triangles and place these to cover and sew in place. I used some of my belly colour in my top scales to provide a slight pattern. Follow the rest of tutorial in the same way ignoring step 3 for inserting spikes. If you are felling adventurous you could merge both adaptation together to create a scaled spiked two tone tail! Tutorial by Sheridan Smith for the Craft Cotton Co 2017 #halloween #sewing #kids #tail #freesewingtutorials #seasonal

I have included three version of this tail so you can vary the tutorial to your skill level or project. All look really cool and it is hard to resist not running around in them! Use a non-stretch fabric for best results, I used a mixture of cotton and polycotton which I find works best! WHAT YOU NEED Fabric Scissors Pins Something to measure with (I used a measuring tape) Something to mark fabric (I used tailors chalk) Sewing machine Thread Stuffing Hook and loop tape OR elastic Needle (Optional) FABRIC CUTS Tail body: cut 2 rectangles I used 22″ x 10″ Tail back: cut 1 circle 7″ in diameter Spikes: cut 2 rectangles 22″ x 3.5″ If using waist straps with hook and loop tape: cut 4 12″ x 3″ (this length measurement my need to be adjusted depending on waist size) INSTRUCTIONS Tail body 1. Take your two strips, lay them together and fold in half-length ways and pin. From approximately 4″ along the length with no fold, draw a straight diagonal line to approximately 1″ above the fold on the short edge. Cut along this line and you should be left with two cone shapes for the tail body. Spikes 2. Lay the fabric strips right sides together and pin in place. Draw a row of triangles along the strip for the tail spikes with approximately 1/2″ spacing between each triangle making the spikes shorter towards the end of the strip and leaving a 1/2″ fabric row at the base. Sew just outside your spike line and then trim the excess fabric. Turn the strip of spikes right side out. Iron flat for easier sewing. Sew Tail Body 3. Pin the largest spike to the tall side of your tail piece, lining up the raw edges. Now lay the second tail piece with right sides together, pin in place and sew. Open the tail out and check the spikes are in place. Refold the tail so the right sides are together again, pin in place and sew. Sew the smaller end of the tail with a curve rather than straight corners. Waist Straps/elastic 4. If using elastic, pin the elastic ends to the right side facing side of the tail body and sew in place. This will mean that once the tail is backed, the elastic edges will be inside the tail body. If using fabric straps, put two strips right sides together and sew along the edges. Repeat for the other two strip to give you two straps. Turn the straps the right way round and sew the hook and tape tap to each end. Pin the straps to the right side facing side of the tail body and sew in place making sure one waist strap has the tape side down and the other tape side up. This will mean that the hook and loop tape is the correct way round and that once the tail is backed, the strap edges will be inside the tail body. Tail backing 5. If you used a different sized tail body here is how to work out what size circle you need. Lie the tail flat and measure across the width of the opening, this measurement will help us get a circle the correct size for the tail back. Double this measurement and divide the result by 3.141. Fold the fabric in to quarters and from the central folded corner, measure this length away plus seam allowance and mark out moving round in an arc to create a curve. Once you have a quarter circle, cut out. Pin the circle right side facing into the tail to the opening and sew around leaving a gap big enough for your hand to fit though so you can stuff it! Stuff and Finish 6. Turn your tail right side out through the hole you left. Now stuff your tail! Once fully stuffed, pin the hole closed and sew shut. You can do this by machine or hand sew. Adaptation 1 – Coloured Belly Follow the tutorial in the same way however split the top section of the body and sew spikes between these two fabric pieces. Adaptation 2 – Scaled This adaption takes a lot of time cutting and frustration but the end result is worth it! In order to create the scale affect you will need to attach the scales to the tail body section before sewing together. Cut out your scale rows in a similar way to the spikes however keep the triangles the same size . I cut out 8 rows at a time however you may need more depending on your tail body size. Don't bin the triangle of cuts as you can use these later. Once the scales rows have been cut out you can lay the scales rows on to the body using the ½” row as a guide and pin in place. Once all the rows have been used trim of the row excess and use these to continue filling the body. Once the body sections are filled, sew each scale row in place along the ½ row guide. Once the whole body section has been filled, check the scale.. Now, for any visible stitching or spaces that may have appeared take the off cut triangles and place these to cover and sew in place. I used some of my belly colour in my top scales to provide a slight pattern. Follow the rest of tutorial in the same way ignoring step 3 for inserting spikes. If you are felling adventurous you could merge both adaptation together to create a scaled spiked two tone tail! Tutorial by Sheridan Smith for the Craft Cotton Co 2017 #halloween #sewing #kids #tail #freesewingtutorials #seasonal

Requirements:- Melodic Floral Fat Quarter bundle 6032 from Craft Cotton Company 1 metre of black cotton for sashing 1.5 metres of blender colour for the backing 1.5 metre square of wadding All seam are ¼ Quilt size 48 x 36” approx. General Information: All blocks will measure 3½ wide by either 6½ or 2½ long and will have a 1½ black strip sewn onto the right hand side of the block. Each ‘glass’ block will require 1 large and 2 small blocks. This quilt has 4 full blocks across and 6 full blocks down, therefore you need 24 3½”x 6½”coloured blocks and 40 3½”x 2½”coloured blocks. If you want to change the dimensions its pretty easy to recalculate the requirements. Instructions 1. Iron all fabrics and prepare for cutting 2. Black fabric: Cut strips 1.5”width of fabric (WOF) for sashing 3. Fat Quarters: cut into strips 3½”wide and using a ¼”seam, sew a strip of black sashing onto the right side of each patterned strip. (These will make the stained glass blocks). 4. Cut 2 WOF from the pale tone to supplement the variety mix for the blocks, sew a length of sashing to each strip. 5. Sub cut the strips into 6½”and 2½”blocks, each coloured block will have a black strip attached to the right hand side of it. Cut sufficient blocks for the quilt from the fat quarter strips and the additional WOF strips. 6. Prepare the main blocks by laying out 1 large block and 2 smaller blocks. These should be joined by a¼”seam. Seams can be pressed open or to one side, whichever way you choose keep it consistent throughout the quilt. Lay the blocks out on a flat surface and try and ensure you have a good variation in the mix of fabrics so there are not too many the same or identical fabrics side by side. Press the blocks once more to keep them flat and straight. 7. Sew these blocks together again with ¼” seams into rows of 4 across (or whatever size you have chosen to make) and then sew these rows on top of each other and keep the pattern consistent and the sashing running in straight lines horizontally and vertically until the quilt is the correct size. 8. Complete the black sashing by sewing additional strips around the edges of the quilt top to create the grid as fig. 1. From the blender fabric cut sufficient 2½”strips (probably 4) to add a border. Sew these into position by attaching a strip to the top and bottom and then sew the left and right sides on to ensure crisp, right angle corners. You may need to join the side strips to gain the correct length. You are best to stagger the joins to give a more fluid look to the quilt, also you may want to join the strips with a 45o angle rather than a straight join, its your preference and whichever you want. Press the quilt top and press seams the same as throughout the quilt. 9. Layer the quilt up with wadding and secure with pins, basting spray or tacking. Sew these 2 layers together using stitch in the ditch or whichever stitching method you choose; (you can add the backing at this stage and stitch the 3 layers together if you wish). Whichever way you choose to layer these together make sure there are no puckers in the fabrics and that everything is flat and straight. 10. Using your ruler and rotary cutter trim the edges of the quilt and prepare it for basting. 11. Cut 2 ½ ” strips from the black fabric and join these strips using 45 o angles. Sew the strips into position with ¼” seams making sure that the raw edges are sitting flush over each other, mitre the corners and finish the quilt ends making sure all the seams lie flat. Flip the binding over to the back of the quilt and hand sew the binding to complete. This link (From Missouri Star Quilt Company) will show you how to bind, how to do mitred corners and also how to finish the ends of the binding, its really useful and perhaps easier than reading how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vCWpxBRs20 12. Lightly press the quilt to make sure everything is flat and there are no stray threads. Hope you enjoy! Made by Marie Pickles for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 #quilt #quilting #tutorial #freesewingtutorials

A new laptop surely called for a new laptop case, and as I’m currently taking part in the #100hexies100days2017 challenge (on Instagram), I thought it was only right to use these on my laptop case… I fussy cut the butterflies and flowers from a beautiful fabric called Larkspur. Supplies: First up, is to measure your laptop, then add 2″ in each direction, this will be your dimensions. (My laptop measures 14″ x 10″) 2 pieces of Blue Denim fabric from craftcotton measuring 16″ x 22″ each. A fat quarter of the Larkspur fabric, in blue and white background – create 12, 3″ hexies. (6 from each coloured background) 16″ zip in pink Batting measuring 16″ x 22″ Fabric marker, spray adhesive and basic sewing supplies Let’s begin: Make your 12, 3″ hexies, for help on how to make these, take a look at my previous tutorial here and here. Take one piece of the blue denim cotton and spray baste it to the piece of batting. Add your zip to one side of the case, follow the photos below. Your case should look like this… Attach it to the other side, as shown in the photos below Top stitch your zip along both sides. Lay your case inside out and open it out, sew all the round the edges of the case, leaving a 3-4″ gap for pulling it the right way out. Using a simple ladder stitch, sew up the gap and tuck the lining inside the case. Using a fabric marker, mark out where you are going to place your hexagons, hand sew these in place, using Gutermann threads, making sure you only catch the top layer of fabric from the case. That’s your case finished... Hope you enjoyed this tutorial, be sure to comment and like. For more tutorials, follow my blog here, or on my Instagram page. happy sewing Creativeblonde x By Michelle Roberts for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 #laptop #case #paperpiercing #butterfly #freesewingtutorials #denim #accessories

Having received this gorgeous blue gingham fabric, I decided to make vintage 50s style trousers. They are cropped length, have pockets and zip up at the back. The pattern is Butterick B5895. I have made them before but in a stretch denim. I found the sizing very true to the measurements on the pattern but I sized up for the gingham as there is no stretch. I pre-washed and ironed the fabric then folded it ensuring the selvages were straight. With this design it is also worth checking the pattern is straight before cutting out. I did this by checking that the checks were straight along the foldline. All seam allowances are 1.5cm. Depending upon the width of your fabric you can sometimes lay the pieces in a more efficient way than that shown and use less fabric than stated on the pattern. Just make sure the grain lines are always straight and if the fabric has nap or a directional print they must all face the same way. First step is to make the pockets by stitching the inner pocket, piece 5 seen above, to the front leg. Step 2 Trim the seams and turn it over. Repeat for the other leg. Then after pressing, topstich on the right side so it lays flat. Step 3 Take the other pocket piece and attach to the side front (piece shown above) along the long curve to form a pocket. The edges need to be neatened to stop fraying, either using zigzag stitch or an overlocker. Step 4 Baste the upper and side edges by hand or machine to hold the pocket in place temporarily. You should now have two complete trouser fronts with pockets. Next stitch the darts in the trouser backs and press towards the centre. Step 5 Stitch front and back leg together along inner leg seams. Step 6 Then press and neaten. Next stitch the crotch seam leaving the seam above the circles open for the zip. A second line of sewing is worth doing here to make the seam stronger. Again press and neaten. Insert the zip, an invisible one works well, just neaten the material edges before inserting. The top should be 1.5cm below the trouser top to allow room for the waistband to be attached. I placed this too high first time and had to redo the whole zip! To check the fit, baste the side seams and try on the trousers. They can be adjusted at this stage by increasing or decreasing the seam allowance. Stitch front and back at side seams. Press, trim and neaten. Last stage is the waistband. It requires interfacing to give some structure. Step 7 Attach the unnotched waistband edge to the right side of the trousers, press seam toward the waistband. It isn’t necessary to neaten this seam as it will be enclosed. Stitch the ends with right sides together then turn the waistband over to the inside, and turn the edge under. Press then hand sew along the length. Finish the closure above the zip with a hook and eye, then sew the hems either by hand or machine depending on your preference. Here are the finished trousers: Made by Tracy Blake for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 #trousers #dressmaking #freesewingtutorials #clothing #sewing

Finished size measures 25” x 25” Fabric Requirements 1.5 mtrs background/backing fabric A selection of fat quarters/scraps 27” x 27” piece of batting 2mtrs Binding Understanding the template - DOWNLOAD HERE The printed side of your template will be the reverse side of your finished block. The dotted outside lines are the seam allowances (1/4”). The solid black lines are the sew lines. The numbers show the order of sewing. Seam Allowances are ¼” unless otherwise stated RST = right sides together Step 1 To start print and cut 9 templates out and shorten your stitch length on your sewing machine to 1.8 or shorter, this will make it easier to tear off the paper at the end. Step 2 On the reverse side of your template place a tiny dot of temporary glue in the middle of A1 and place your fabric on top (if you have chosen a print fabric this need to be right side facing up) ensure the shape is covered with at least ¼” extra all the way around (a good way to check is to hold your template up to the light) Step 3 Turn your template back over and using a ruler along the line between A1 and A2 fold the paper back and trim the fabric down to ¼” using a rotary cutter and cutting mat Step 4 Fold the paper back out and place your fabric for A2 RST against the edge of A1, ensuring your piece of fabric will cover the whole of A2 plus ¼” seam allowances and pin into place. Step 5 At your sewing machine sew along and slightly pass the line in-between sections A1 and A2 using a back stitch at the beginning and end, sewing over the line slightly will ensure the fabric will be caught in the next seam. Press the fabric open using an iron. Step 6 Back at your cutting mat gently fold the paper back on the line A3 and trim a ¼”. Place your fabric for A3 on top as you did in steps 5 and 6. Continue on in this manner in number order until all of your sections are pieced making sure you are adding enough fabric for each shape as you go. Step 7 Once your block is complete, trim the template to the outer dotted line to remove the excess fabric. Step 8 Gently remove all the paper from the back of all your blocks. Step 9 Following the layout below, sew blocks in rows of 3. Cut two pieces of background fabric measuring 2.5” x 22” and sew to the top and bottom of your quilt. Next cut two pieces measuring 2.5” x 26” and sew to the sides of you quilt. Your quilt top is now complete. Step 10 Layer your quilt top, batting and backing fabric and baste, quilt and bind using your preferred method. Made by Joanne Hart at unicornharts for The Craft Cotton Company 2017 Visit her Instagram page here #small #quilt #quilting #floral #freesewingtutorials

Get ready for the new school term with this handy pencil and notebook wallet. What you will need: Craft Cotton Company supplies: Owl School Fat quarter pack Other supplies: 18”x10” fusible fleece Coordinating ribbon Step 1: Using your rotary cutter and ruler, cut your patterned fabric into pieces Owl fabric outer: 18”x10” Grey fabric inner: 18”x10” Turquoise fabric pocket: 18”x11” Step 2: Iron the fusible fleece to the wrong side of the grey inner fabric Step 3: Fold the turquoise pocket fabric in half lengthwise, press then topstitch along the folded edge Step 4: Position the pocket along the bottom edge of the inner fabric, pin ion place then baste along the raw edges to hold the pocket in place Step 5: Mark your pocket lines on the wrong side of the grey inner fabric (the fusible fleece) to suit your notebook size and the size/quantity of pencils. Stitch along the marked lines to create the pencil and notebook pockets. Backstitching at the beginning and end will give extra strength to the pockets Step 6: Attach two 10” pieces (one on each side) of ribbon where the top of the pocket meets the inner fabric Step 7: Tuck the ribbon into the pockets to keep it out of the way when stitching then place the owl outer fabric on top of the pocket/inner fabric. Pin this together leaving an opening along the top seam for turning. **I double pin my turning gap so I don’t forget to stop stitching Step 8: Stitch all the way around from double pin to double pin. Using a walking foot makes the stitching easier when sewing the layers Step 9: Clip each of the corners to remove excess fabric then turn right sides out. Use a bamboo creaser or chopstick to carefully push out the corners Step 10: Press the project flat, making sure turning gap seam is positioned correctly then top stitch around all edges closing the turning gap as you go Step 11: Insert the pencils and notebook then the wallet is finished Tip: With the leftover owl fabric why not make a matching book cover to slip inside the notebook pocket.. © by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Co #owl #backtoschool #pencilcase #wrap #freesewingtutorials #kids #accessories

This fabric is so gorgeous I just had to make an overnight bag/pajamas bag to match teddy sleeping bag (see previous tutorial). Supplies: Fabrics are all from craftcotton, Into the woods collection and the gorgeous Denim cotton Pattern and tutorial by creativeblonde 5” petal shape template Basic sewing supplies Let’s begin: Step 1 You will need the following fabric: • Fox grey fat quarter • Denim cotton 18” x 36” • 96” of cord (I got creative and use a strip from the fraying edge of the denim cotton) Start by making 8 x 5” petals using your template, I cut 4 the right way round and 4 upside down, sew them together using ¼” seam allowance, pressing the seams open, see photos below… Step 2: Cut the blue denim piece of fabric to measure 18” x 29” fold and press in half giving you a piece that measures 18” x 14 ½”. Pin your petal template in place on the bag, I went off center, so it could be seen on the back too. Step 3 I used a simple needle turn applique stitch to sew my petal template in place, tucking under ¼” of the raw edge, make small snips with small sharp scissors on the curves, so you get a neat finish, this also help with the turning under the raw edges. Step 4 With the remaining blue denim fabric, cut 2 rectangles measuring 2” x 4”, fold and press twice by ¼” along the longest edges. Top stitch as close as possible to the outer edges. Step 5 Pin on the inside of the bottom of the bag, leaving 2 inches from each corner. Step 6 Fold over the top of the bag by 1”, do this twice, press and pin in place, top stitch in place. With right side together, sew along the bottom and up the other side, trim the excess fabric from the two corners, so it sits neater when turned the right way out. Step 7 For the cord, you can either use a piece of purchased cord, or create your own, I cut a piece of fabric from the blue frayed edge of the denim, measuring 96” x 1”, pressed it in half, and stitched down both edges – see photo below Step 8 Make a small incision at the top of the bag in the middle to thread your cord through. Thread your cord through the small holes and loop through the tabs at the bottom, once in place, sew the length of cord together, and pass the sewn bit inside the top strip of the bag, so only neat edges can be seen. Hand sew the incision, so the raw edges are tucked and sewn inside itself. Thanks for reading this tutorial, hope you enjoy making this drawstring denim bag. Check out my other tutorials, including how to make a matching sleeping bag for teddy at the following links… Happy sewing x Made by Michelle Roberts for the Craft Cotton Co Visit her blog creativeblondeblog.wordpress.com Follow her on instagram @creativeblonde66 #drawstring #bag #freesewingtutorials #denim #sewing #kids