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Create a practical sewing gift with this simple patchwork tote bag. The easy square design makes it perfect for beginners to quilting and patchwork! Make the bag #patchwork #bag #freesewingtutorials #accessories

Create a practical sewing gift with this simple patchwork tote bag. The easy square design makes it perfect for beginners to quilting and patchwork! Make the bag #patchwork #bag #freesewingtutorials #accessories

This is a sweet little quilt and it can be made in a variety of sizes depending on the template that you use. This quilt has been made using an Accuquilt die and cut on an Accuquilt Go machine. It is quite a large die and because of that it was quite quick to make the quilt. If you can get access to a die cutting machine and an apple core die, you will have this ready in a flash. Alternatively you can purchase these templates quite easily or, you can make your own template by doing this: Make an Apple Core Template: Find a plate with a diameter the size you want your template to be. Put this onto a sheet of paper and draw around the plate. Cut this circle out. Fold this paper in half and then in quarters and run your finger along the folds to make a sharp crease. Open the paper and turn the circle to face you so the cross looks like an ‘X’. Now use the plate again and slide it between the ‘X’ marks to take a ‘bite’out of the circle shape. Slide your plate until the edges meet the top and bottom of the X and mark the inside line (It makes a concave shape) repeat on the other side so the shape is symmetrical. Cut along the lines marked on the inside of the X and it reveals an ‘apple core’ template. Remember that when you sew this in place, the seams will take away 1/4′′ on all sides so take this into consideration when using a plate or other object for your circle. Cut out the green shape and that is your apple core template. Remember that you need ¼” seams so be sure to take account of that measurement when you plan your template. All the curves are exactly the same size. Use the template with the tutorial or if you have another apple core template use that, you will need to calculate what fabric you need based on the size of the template and also remember to calculate for wadding, backing and binding. Apple Core is a curved template with curved seams on every side, it is an organic shape and as most sewing is done in straight lines, this is different, so take your time and enjoy. Arm yourself with lots of pins and match two pieces top curve to middle curve. Find the centre and work out towards the ends. If there are any notches or points on your template, make sure you match these up as it will make it so much easier. Sew with a medium length stitch and check that the curve lies flat when you open the two pieces. Finger press or iron the seam to one side, do not open the seam as it may weaken it. The shapes go together like this: Start by connecting the core’s in two’s. Then sew these together and begin to create rows of core shapes until it is wide enough. Make another full-length row then join it to another row. You need to note which shapes fit together to commence the row, they all intersect on either a horizontal or vertical curve, just match them up. Keep doing this until you have a quilt top that is both long and wide enough for your purpose. You can prepare the quilt top according to the pattern design of your choice. It is vital that you keep to a ¼”seam throughout. Iron each row as you go along and if necessary unpick and sew the seam again to ensure there are no puckers or pleats. Do not proceed if the seam does not lie flat you will be upset with yourself if you do! Once your quilt top is complete, iron it well, you may want to put some spray starch on it to keep it crisp. Place the quilt top on a flat surface. Lay the wadding on top, it should be at least 1”larger all round. These layers need to be basted together. You can use spray glue or pins or tacking stitches. Take time and ensure there are no wrinkles in the top layer. The backing needs to go on top of the wadding, again use whatever method of basting suits you best. I tacked my layers and checked they were flat. Take the quilt and sew these 3 layers together. You can sew a row of stitches between the core shapes (quilt in the ditch), or as I did - echo quilting, which is sewing a line of stitching inside the core shape on every shape. This photo shows the back of the quilt and the outlines of all the ‘cores’. This photo shows the echo quilting and the tacking that holds all the layers together until the quilt is stable and it is then removed. Quilting is done with a medium length stitch and it can be a matching colour thread or a contrasting thread. The bobbin thread can again be a different colour or whatever is best suited to how you want the quilt to look. The quilt needs to be trimmed and prepared for binding. Binding can be standard ‘off the roll’ or made to match. I cut 2¼”strips on the bias because of the curvy shape of the quilt; the bias strips have a degree of stretch and are easier to work with. The strips were joined on an angle and I ironed into a standard twofold bias strip. Pin or tack the binding onto the quilt, sew the binding in place with a ¼”seam. Take time doing this, there are many curves to be sewn and the binding has to be kept straight and neat. Close the binding and finish the closing seam. Once the binding has been sewn to the front, flip the quilt and hand sew the binding to the back to complete the quilt. Press the binding and give the whole quilt a final press. Enjoy. #freesewingtutorials #quilt

How many of us find our cats sleeping on the fabrics we plan to use? Well let’s create a purrrfect reversible cat quilt especially for our furry friends. (Finished quilt size 26” x 26”) Follow the tutorial below to see how. Everything you need can be ordered from craftcotton the cute kitty cat fabric all comes in a very cute fat quarter bundle. **don’t forget to grab your wadding too from craftcotton ** Here’s what you’ll need: ⦁ A cat looking for a place to sleep and wash her/himself :) kitty beach fat quarter bundle from craft cotton. light fusible batting from craft cotton. (this is very lovely wadding, perfect for beginners in quilting as it can be iron in place, and because it’s a light weight it also makes it easier when you come to quilt it. denim cotton from craft cotton (28” x 16”) ⦁ Dark navy blue bias binding 104” in length ⦁ White cotton fabric 28” x 40” ⦁ White and navy blue threads ⦁ Sewing machine, rotary cutter, cutting mat ⦁ *drunken path ⦁ template- optional* or cut your own 4” x 4” quarter circle template from strong card. ⦁ Basting pen, and an erasable fabric marker pen ⦁ 2 fat quarters of light weight interfacing Let’s begin… From your kitty beach fat quarter bundle, and a small strip (4.5 x 18”) cut from the denim blue cotton, cut out the following (see photo below) add a ¼” all the way round each shape, this will be trimmed off after the interfacing has been ironed in place. I loved the cats so much, on the blue fabric, I fussy cut these out (see photo below) Once all your quarters circles are cut out, you can now iron them onto the light weight interfacing, this will stop the edges fraying, lay the fabric pieces’ right side up, with the glue side of the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric, then trim your quarter circles neatly. Next take your large piece of white fabric and cut it to 26” x 26”, now comes the fun part… Using your erasable fabric maker pen and fabric glue pen, we are going to mark out where to blanket stitch our pieces. See photo below for placement… Start by finding the middle of the white piece of fabric, draw a dot, then glue your first set of four fabrics pieces in place Then draw a 1 ¼” inch square around this, glue your three pieces on place, making sure you have all four in the combination. (see photo below) Next make a dot marking 5” from each side of the white fabric, glue your blue kitty friends in place. Using a navy-blue thread, blanket stitch around each shape. The reverse… When all the blanket stitching is complete, iron on the fusible wadding to the reverse of the quilt. Making the other side of the quilt… ⦁ 2x white strips of fabric measuring 6.5” x 20.5” each ⦁ 1x blue kitty fabric measuring 9.5” x 20.5” ⦁ 2x denim blue fabric measuring 3.5” x 20.5” each ⦁ 2x denim fabric measuring 3.5” x 26” Sew them together in strips as shown in the photo below Once the other side of your quilt is complete, spray baste this in place, creating a quilt sandwich with your fusible wadding and other side of quilt. Now you’re ready to free motion quilt (by using this light weight wadding you will find this easier) Using your erasable marker pen, draw out a pattern of your choice on the first side of the fabric we made (as the fabric is lighter in colour and you will find it easier to see your markings) I used loops and swirls… I decided not to quilt over what looks like a white square. Once you’re happy with your design, thread up your machine with the white thread and remembering to drop your feed dogs and attach your free motion quilting foot/darning foot, you’re all set to go… Almost there… just add your bias binding My cat loves it! Cat quilt designed and created by creativeblonde for The Craft Cotton Co. Follow me on facebook and instagram for more tutorials. #cat #quilt #freesewingtutorials #home

Learn skills in attaching a zip when adding lining to a bag, adding zip cover tabs, English paper piercing and a lining with invisible raw edges. What you will need… Fabric from craftcotton - cotton denim and times tables cotton print 1 metre of each of the above fabric combo (you will have enough spare to make a small pencil case too if you wish) 2x 1” paper hexagon template 2 pieces of ribbon, 4” long each glue pen scissors sewing machine cutting mat rotary cutter iron 12” white zip 1 metre of Medium weight interfacing Preparing your fabric From your paper pattern, created on the fold; (1 square = 2 inch) Total height 14”, total length along the top 14”, total length along the bottom 18” – with 2” squares cut out from the two bottom corners of bag, this needs to be done in all layers. Cut 2 interfacing pieces Cut 2 blue cotton fabric pieces Cut 2 outer fabric pieces Cut 2 pieces of the black fabric 2”x1” and sew in raw edges along the two longer sides Using your 1” hexie, cut two hexagon hexies, using the glue pen fold over the edges to create nice neat/sharp edges and top stitch them together (wrong sides facing, don’t forget to add a couple of pieces of short ribbon) Adding the zip and tabs See pictures above and below Repeat process for the other side of the zip. Next… Iron on your fusible medium weight interfacing to the wrong side of the blue lining fabric. Sew right side together of the outer fabric, along the bottom and down each side (not the corners) press seams open Sew the interfaced lining, right sides together but leave a 3” gap along the bottom edge (this is to pull your bag through at the end - the clever bit) press seams open Pull your corners apart, like your opening a packet of crisps, lay flat and sew, then press seam open Press and then pull the whole bag through the hole you left in the lining fabric, sew up the hole with a slip stitch and press bag… fill with lunch and go Or fill it with your bits for school/college.. It's even big enough to carry your fabrics threads and bits for your next project, or if your off to your next sewing class, or round a friends to sew in company.. Made by Michelle Roberts for the Craft Cotton Co Visit her blog creativeblondeblog.wordpress.com #zip #bag #backtoschool #freesewingtutorials #accessories

Learn skills in attaching a zip when adding lining to a bag, adding zip cover tabs, English paper piercing and a lining with invisible raw edges. What you will need… Fabric from craftcotton - cotton denim and times tables cotton print 1 metre of each of the above fabric combo (you will have enough spare to make a small pencil case too if you wish) 2x 1” paper hexagon template 2 pieces of ribbon, 4” long each glue pen scissors sewing machine cutting mat rotary cutter iron 12” white zip 1 metre of Medium weight interfacing Preparing your fabric From your paper pattern, created on the fold; (1 square = 2 inch) Total height 14”, total length along the top 14”, total length along the bottom 18” – with 2” squares cut out from the two bottom corners of bag, this needs to be done in all layers. Cut 2 interfacing pieces Cut 2 blue cotton fabric pieces Cut 2 outer fabric pieces Cut 2 pieces of the black fabric 2”x1” and sew in raw edges along the two longer sides Using your 1” hexie, cut two hexagon hexies, using the glue pen fold over the edges to create nice neat/sharp edges and top stitch them together (wrong sides facing, don’t forget to add a couple of pieces of short ribbon) Adding the zip and tabs See pictures above and below Repeat process for the other side of the zip. Next… Iron on your fusible medium weight interfacing to the wrong side of the blue lining fabric. Sew right side together of the outer fabric, along the bottom and down each side (not the corners) press seams open Sew the interfaced lining, right sides together but leave a 3” gap along the bottom edge (this is to pull your bag through at the end - the clever bit) press seams open Pull your corners apart, like your opening a packet of crisps, lay flat and sew, then press seam open Press and then pull the whole bag through the hole you left in the lining fabric, sew up the hole with a slip stitch and press bag… fill with lunch and go Or fill it with your bits for school/college.. It's even big enough to carry your fabrics threads and bits for your next project, or if your off to your next sewing class, or round a friends to sew in company.. Made by Michelle Roberts for the Craft Cotton Co Visit her blog creativeblondeblog.wordpress.com #zip #bag #backtoschool #freesewingtutorials #accessories

Have you a couple or maybe even 3 FQ's left from a pack or that you found in your crafty stash? Not enough to make a project but too nice give away? I have the perfect project for you, it's a great gift or it's even better to have it sitting pretty in the kitchen being admired on a daily basis..... You will need: 2 or 3 Fat Quarters - Buy the 'Just Bake' ones here Ribbon or lace to trim; you need approximately 24" of 1”deep ribbon or fancy lace for the top edge of the apron and and approximately 72" by 1 ½ -2” for the ties. Grosgrain would be a great choice as it is strong and holds it shape well. Step 1 Place 2 FQ right sides facing. Pin. Mark a 2-3" gap along the top edge. Sew the whole way around with a 1/4" seam, pivot on the corners and remember to leave the gap open. Trim the corners close to the stitching taking. Care not to cut through any stitches. Turn through to the right side and carefully press ensuring that the stitching line is the pressing line. Step 2 To make the pocket; turn the bottom up 4-5" to form a pocket. Pin in place along both outside edges. Using a ruler, draw a few lines to make pockets. Sew two lines of stitching, approximately 2”apart to make a pen slot, it can be very useful. Sew the edges carefully with a1/8" seam, making sure to secure the top and bottom well. Press the pocket in place. Step 3 Now to sort out the apron ties (or strings or straps, whatever you like to call them) If you do not have a 3rd FQ, don't worry at this stage, read on and you will find out what to do next *. Using the remaining FQ and a cutting mat and ruler, cut 3.5" strips from the long side. Join these strips using either a straight or angled seam. Make this strip as long as you wish, it needs to go across the apron top and be long enough to tie around your waist and make a fancy bow, mine was 72”long. Press the seams open. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with right side together and sew along the length using a 1/4" seam. Use a safety pin; push the safety pin inside the tube and work it down to the bottom, the tube with pull through to the right side with very little effort. You may well have a better way to turn long tubes through, this is the one that works best for me. Manipulate the fabric until the seam lies along the top edge with no twists. Press well. Turn in the open ends by 1/2" and sew ends closed with a 1/8" seam and sew down both sides. Trim threads. Step 4 Lay the apron top out flat with the wrong side facing up (the side with no pocket); using either *ribbon or the prepared strap/tie, measure the centre of the tie (lengthwise) and finger press, finger press the centre of the apron along the top edge. Match these marks up and pop a pin in place.. Lay the tie/ribbon along the back of the apron top and pin or clip. Ensuring that the top of the apron and the tie are sitting exactly on top of each other, carefully sew with a 1/4" seam. Secure the beginning and end with extra stitches because these edges with take a lot of abuse. Step 5 Place you fancy lace or trim across the width of the apron with the right side facing. Carefully pin in place and sew this in place with 1/8”seam. Lift the lace up out of the way and run a second line of stitching along the apron ¼” – ½”" below the original stitching – this should be hidden by the lace or trim so check what is best for you and it will stabilize the top of the apron as well as looking pretty. You now have your own handmade pinny, perfect as a gift or keep it for yourself! By Marie Pickles for The Craft Cotton Company #apron #fatquarter #tutorial #freesewingtutorials #dressmaking

Have you a couple or maybe even 3 FQ's left from a pack or that you found in your crafty stash? Not enough to make a project but too nice give away? I have the perfect project for you, it's a great gift or it's even better to have it sitting pretty in the kitchen being admired on a daily basis..... You will need: 2 or 3 Fat Quarters - Buy the 'Just Bake' ones here Ribbon or lace to trim; you need approximately 24" of 1”deep ribbon or fancy lace for the top edge of the apron and and approximately 72" by 1 ½ -2” for the ties. Grosgrain would be a great choice as it is strong and holds it shape well. Step 1 Place 2 FQ right sides facing. Pin. Mark a 2-3" gap along the top edge. Sew the whole way around with a 1/4" seam, pivot on the corners and remember to leave the gap open. Trim the corners close to the stitching taking. Care not to cut through any stitches. Turn through to the right side and carefully press ensuring that the stitching line is the pressing line. Step 2 To make the pocket; turn the bottom up 4-5" to form a pocket. Pin in place along both outside edges. Using a ruler, draw a few lines to make pockets. Sew two lines of stitching, approximately 2”apart to make a pen slot, it can be very useful. Sew the edges carefully with a1/8" seam, making sure to secure the top and bottom well. Press the pocket in place. Step 3 Now to sort out the apron ties (or strings or straps, whatever you like to call them) If you do not have a 3rd FQ, don't worry at this stage, read on and you will find out what to do next *. Using the remaining FQ and a cutting mat and ruler, cut 3.5" strips from the long side. Join these strips using either a straight or angled seam. Make this strip as long as you wish, it needs to go across the apron top and be long enough to tie around your waist and make a fancy bow, mine was 72”long. Press the seams open. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with right side together and sew along the length using a 1/4" seam. Use a safety pin; push the safety pin inside the tube and work it down to the bottom, the tube with pull through to the right side with very little effort. You may well have a better way to turn long tubes through, this is the one that works best for me. Manipulate the fabric until the seam lies along the top edge with no twists. Press well. Turn in the open ends by 1/2" and sew ends closed with a 1/8" seam and sew down both sides. Trim threads. Step 4 Lay the apron top out flat with the wrong side facing up (the side with no pocket); using either *ribbon or the prepared strap/tie, measure the centre of the tie (lengthwise) and finger press, finger press the centre of the apron along the top edge. Match these marks up and pop a pin in place.. Lay the tie/ribbon along the back of the apron top and pin or clip. Ensuring that the top of the apron and the tie are sitting exactly on top of each other, carefully sew with a 1/4" seam. Secure the beginning and end with extra stitches because these edges with take a lot of abuse. Step 5 Place you fancy lace or trim across the width of the apron with the right side facing. Carefully pin in place and sew this in place with 1/8”seam. Lift the lace up out of the way and run a second line of stitching along the apron ¼” – ½”" below the original stitching – this should be hidden by the lace or trim so check what is best for you and it will stabilize the top of the apron as well as looking pretty. You now have your own handmade pinny, perfect as a gift or keep it for yourself! By Marie Pickles for The Craft Cotton Company #apron #fatquarter #tutorial #freesewingtutorials #dressmaking

This is a must-make quilt! Absolutely love the colour of this fabric and the triangles just make it different from your everyday quilt. This will be the perfect quilt to use for a picnic in the park! 'Looking for a sewing project to fill your weekend? The Symone quilt is a stunning pieced quilt made of simple triangle shapes, that come together to produce a pretty quilt in less than a week! Swap in your own fabrics for a more individual and personalised look.' Have a go at this tutorial to make a beautiful quilt for a picnic! Click here to see the tutorial. By Fabric Edition for Hobbycraft. #freesewingtutorials #craftcottonco #hobbycraft #patchwork #quilt #home

This tutorial will teach you how to make a perfect place mat set for Easter! These lovely place mats will impress everyone at your table and decorate your table for Easter. The place mat were made using our Spring Meadow fat quarters to give them a lovely Easter flare! 'A fabric placemat is a great project for beginner quilters who want to progress their skills. If you’ve already had a go at basic quilting and patchwork, this will teach you how to advance your skills, introducing techniques such as binding. Plus, they’re super useful! Have a go at this tutorial to impress at your Easter dinner! Click here to see the tutorial. By Andy Isaacs for Hobbycraft. #freesewingtutorials #craftcottonco #hobbycraft #easter #kitchen #home