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Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need: 2 x 2.5 - 3M main skirt fabric (depending on width of fabric) 1 x 1M fabric (yoke and ties) matching thread First, I took measurements of my waist, hips and finished length of skirt. From the diagram below, I made a paper pattern to use to cut out the fabric. I also decided to make the skirt slightly longer so the main panels were 55cm. Note: 1 used 1.5cm seam allowances throughout. Cut out: 4 front panels (2 in each of the main fabric (remember to make 2 right and 2 left panels)) 2 back panels 2 back yokes 4 front yokes (remember to make 2 right and 2 left panels) 4 ties Construction 1. Sew the side seams together on the main panels, press seam open (there is no need to neaten the raw edges, unless the fabric frays easily as all edges are enclosed). 2. Sew the side seams of the yolk pieces together, leaving a 6cm gap on one side seam on each set (this is for the tie to go through, remember it will be opposite side on each piece). Press the seams open. 3. Sew the top of the main pieces to the bottom of the yolks, right sides together, press the seams open. 4. Take the tie pieces and place 2 right sides together and sew around the long side, the short side and then up around the other long side, leaving the short side open. Repeat with the other 2 pieces. 5. Trim the seam allowances to 5mm and clip the corners. 6. Turn to right sides out, carefully poking corners, press the seams then press the ties flat. 7. On one of the skirts place the ties 3cm down from the top on either side, tack in place. 8. With right sides together, match yolks and seams pin all around the skirt and yolks. Sew all around leaving a 10cm gap on the hemline for turning through (be careful not to catch in the ends of the ties). 9. Trim seam allowances to 5mm, clip corners. Turn right sides out. Carefully poke out corners and press seams flat then press the whole skirt. 10. Ladder stitch the gap and the opening for the ties closed. 11. Give the skirt a good press. To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Angela Harkness Ability/skill level of project: Beginner/Easy Supplies: 0.5m Happy and Glorious fabric 1m White Cotton fabric Wide red waistband elastic Coordinating thread Buttons Elastic Hair Band Brooch back fastener Dress up for the Platinum Street Party celebrations with this simple double layer girls circle skirt. As it is such a quick make, you can easily make it for all of the skirt wearing members of the family by following the method with the different measurements to have a matching set! Step 1: Let’s do the maths! Measure the circumference of the waist (22”) Add 2” for wriggle room (22”+2”=24”) Find the radius of the circle by dividing the circumference by 6.28 (24/6.28=3.82) Round up/down to the nearest ¼” (3.75”) Measure from the waist to the knee to give the length of the skirt (13”) Add together the radius and the length (3.75”=13”=16.75”) Step 2: Cutting! Fold base fabric (white) into quarter as in diagram, take note of fold line position Orange= waist measurement 3.75” Blue= length measurement 16.75” Mark the waist and length measurements as per your calculations and then cut out. Repeat for the top layer fabric (patterned) with a shorter length of 7” (This may be longer or shorter depending on personal preference). This will give you two fabric circles with the waistline cut out like a doughnut! Step 3: Stitching the hem on the top circle layer Fold over a double 1/4” hem around the bottom edge of the doughnut Press in place Stitch the hem in place 1/8” from the folded edge Step 4: Joining the two fabric ‘doughnuts’ Position the two fabric doughnuts together with right sides together Pin in place Stitch around the waistline with a 0.5” seam allowance Turn through and press the seam Step 5: Stitching the hem on the bottom circle layer Fold over a double 1/4” hem around the bottom edge of the doughnut Press in place Stitch the hem in place 1/8” from the folded edge Step 6: Making the waistband Cut the waistband elastic at the actual waistband measurement (22”) Join the edges of the elastic with a ½” seam allowance, using a coordinating thread Open the elastic seam and topstitch down each side Step 7: Attaching the waistband Fold the skirt waistline into four and mark each quarter point with a pin Repeat with the elastic Match the pins together and pin the elastic to each of the quarter points on the skirt If it is a bigger waist, you may need to do this in eight sections Using either a zigzag or a stretch stitch, width 5.5, stitch the two together. As you are stitching pull the elastic to the next pin. Give the skirt a good press and it is ready to wear. How to make matching accessories: The accessories are made using the traditional ‘Suffolk Puff’ of fabric yo-yo. This is an interchangeable term used on different sides of the globe, with yo-yo being used more in America. Step 1: Cutting the fabric Cut 7.5” circles of fabric out of the white and patterned fabrics Step 2: Making the Suffolk Puff Turn over the edge of the circle by ¼” Using a needle and thread, stitch a small running stitch around the outer edge of the fabric circle Carefully pull up the thread to gather the circle Step 3: Decorating the Suffolk Puff Choose two coordinating buttons and stitch these to the centre of the Suffolk Puff. Layering two large buttons on top of each other works well, or alternatively, you could add a little cluster of miniature buttons. Step 4: Attaching the Suffolk Puff to the project Stitch the decorated Suffolk Puff to an elastic hair band or sew a metal brooch back fastener to the back of the Suffolk Puff...or maybe make one of each! Now you’re all ready for the biggest event of the year, the Platinum Jubilee Party! To see more from Angela follow her on Instagram @angerellas_crafts. Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Helen Bowes What better way to celebrate the Platinum Jubilee than whipping up some sweet treats for a street party? And what could be more patriotic than doing it wearing this ruffle apron using this fabulous jubilee fabric. My daughter and I had great fun whipping up some cakes whilst she stayed clean in this apron. Step one: Assemble Supplies To make this apron you will need the following supplies: 1m Jubilee Fabric 1m Red fabric Red cotton (I used Gütermann 156) Quilting wadding Pin and clips Sewing machine Iron and Ironing board Tape measure Fabric marker Scissors and/or rotary cutter Bib template Step 2: Cut pieces To make this apron, you will need to cut out the following pieces: Apron bottom (2 pieces) - rectangle 23” wide x 15” high of Jubilee fabric (RA2) Pocket (2 pieces) – 7” wide x 7” high of red fabric (RA3, 4, 5) Bib (2 pieces) – 12” wide x 10” high of Jubilee fabric using the template (RA6 Wadding – 12” wide x 10” high using the template Waist and neck ties (4 pieces) – 4” x 30” red fabric for 2 pieces and jubilee fabric for 2 Waist band (2 pieces) – 2.5” x 21” red fabric Pocket ruffle (1 piece) – 2.5” x 14” red fabric Bib ruffle (2 pieces) – 2.5” x 30” red fabric Skirt ruffle (3 pieces) – 7” x 36” red fabric Interfacing (1 piece) – 1.5” x 20” Step 3: Make waist and neck ties Take your 4 pieces of fabric to make the neck and waist ties and fold one end over 0.5” so the wrong sides are together. Then turn the fabric over and fold it in half lengthways so the right sides face each other. Use your iron to press them so they stay flat. Using a 0.5” seam allowance sew down the open long edge of the fabric. Once sewn, turn the fabric tubes the right way round, iron flat- and top stitch across the folded narrow end. Step 4: Create your gathers Take your 2.5 x 14” strip and fold in the short ends by 0.75” and press into place. The fold the strip lengthways so the wrong sides are together. Press the piece flat and then sew two lines of gathering stitch along the long edge. TIP: To sew a gathering stitch, select the longest stitch length you can on you machine. Instead of doubling back on yourself at the beginning and end of each stitch to secure it in place, you just do one continuous stitch. Give yourself a good length of thread at the start and end as you will need this to pull the gathers. Make sure you don’t come off the edge of the fabric and that your lines of stitching don’t cross. If they cross or come off the material, then the gather won’t work. To create the gather, you need to separate the top strands from the bottom strands of your sewn stitch. I use the top two strands and then, carefully, you want to pull on these two threads. This will start the gather. Sometimes it is easier to move the fabric along the cotton. Take care as you don’t want the thread to snap. If it does you will have to start over again. It is important to take your time – there is no rush. You are aiming for your gather to be 6” in length. Next create the gather for the bib by taking the two 2.5 x 30” strips. Place them right sides together and stitch along one short end using a 0.5” seam allowance. Once stitched, iron this seam flat. Sew your gathering stitches and then gather this length from 59” to 39”. Finally, create the gather for the skirt. Take your three 7x36” strips and place two of these right sides facing and stitch along one short end using a 0.5” seam allowance. Once sewn, press this seam flat. Repeat with the last piece so all three pieces are joined. At each end, fold the short edge in by 0.75” and press flat. Then fold the whole length in half along the long end wrong sides together. Sew your gathering stitch and gather the piece in so it reduces from 104.5” to 50”. TIP: If you find the gathering stitch is snapping, try using a zig zag stitch instead. Remember to take your time. Step 5: Create your pocket If like me your pocket is plain, you can use applique to make it more interesting. For mine, I have cut out one of the corgis to create an applique patch on the pocket. TIP: Applique – cut out the motif you want to the size you want. The use double sided fusible interfacing and following the instructions use this to bond the motif to your pocket. Then go round the edge with a decorative stitch or If you don’t have this option top stitch with two rows. With the right side of the outer pocket piece facing up, lay the ruffle on top with the raw edges lining up. The ruffle wants to start and stop 0.5” in from each edge, so you may need to adjust the gathers. Baste the ruffle to the pocket using a 0.5” seam allowance. The next step is to put the back part of the pocket onto the front side, right sides facing. Pin around the edge leaving a 3” gap on one straight edge. TIP: Use different style pins to mark the start and end of the opening so you don’t sew between them and close the gap. Using a 0.5” seam allowance, sew all around the edge leaving the 3” opening unsewn. Once the edge has been sewn, cut the upper two corners and clip round the lower corners. Now turn the whole thing the right way round by pulling the fabric through the opening. Use something like a bodkin, knitting needle, the wrong end of a pencil to push all the corners out. Press flat including pressing the edge inwards at the gap. The final stage is to edgestitch the pocket onto the front piece of the apron skirt. You can decide which side you would like the pocket to sit. I’ve put mine so it will be on the right side when I am wearing it as I am right-handed. Once you’ve decided where to put it, pin in place along the sides, lower corners and bottom edge. Remember not to stitch the ruffle edge or you will have a pocket you can’t use!! To edge stitch, just increase you stitch length slightly, then stitch just in from the edge. Make sure you generously back stitch at the start and end as these are stress points for the pocket, and you don’t want it to come flying off mid baking. Step 6: Create the bib Take your piece of batting and place it on your workspace. Then lay one of the bib pieces right side up on top of the batting. To quilt you want to be able to be able to mark your bib piece with a fabric marker that is removable – I’ve used a fabric pencil that can be rubbed out but there are other options such as pens where the ink fades as it is exposed to air or heat. To quilt the bib, you need to find the centre and draw a diagonal line across the fabric. From this line you draw further lines at 1” intervals towards the top and bottom of the fabric. To create the diamond pattern, draw in lines 1” apart at 45 degrees to the lines already drawn. Once the lines are drawn, you can then sew along them using a thread colour that you want – I stuck with red to make a feature of it. Stitch in one direction first, then do the lines going the other way. The next stage is to pin the bib ruffle around the edge of the quilted bib front. The raw edges should align so the ruffle points into the centre of the bib; once positioned, pin in place. Find two of your tie pieces and pin these on top of the ruffle at the top of the curves. They should be on a slight angle. Baste these pieces into place keeping within the 0.5” seam allowance. Once secured in place with the basting, remove all pins. Find your lining piece and place this on top of the front piece, right sides together. Pin in place and sew around the edge using a 0.5” seam allowance. Leave the bottom edge unsewn. Turn the bib the right way round via the open edge at the bottom after you have clipped round the corners. The final stage is to create the darts. To create the darts mark two triangles on your fabric following the guide on the pattern piece. Fold the fabric so the outside edges of the triangle come together right sides facing. Holding this in place, turn the fabric over and pin in place. Sew on the back of the bib following the line of the dart. Step 7: Create the skirt Take your front piece of skirt, right side up, and pin the ruffle around the sides and bottom starting and stopping 0.5” from the top of the skirt. As with the other two ruffles, the raw edges should line up and the ruffle be facing into the centre of the skirt. Once happy with the gathers, baste in place. Place the lining of the apron skirt on top of the ruffles with the right sides of fabric facing each other. Pin into place making sure the ruffles are all sandwiched between the two layer of apron material. Don’t include the top edge in the pining as this needs to remain open. Once happy, stitch into place using a 0.5” seam allowance. Clip the corners and turn the right way round through the open edge. Pull ruffles into place and press. Now to create the pleats in the skirt. Firstly, baste the top edge together keeping within the 0.5” seam allowance. Next, find the exact centre point of the skirt and measure 3” out in either direction and place a mark. Create another mark 2” out in either direction and make a point of the triangle between these two marks, 2” down. Fold so the lines meet and sew along the dart line. Press the darts towards the centre. The darts should line up with the darts you created on the bib. Step 8: Create the waist band Find your remaining fabric strips (2.5 x 21”) and your interfacing (1.5x20”). Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing to the centre of one of the fabric strips; this strip will become the front of the waist band. The press one 21” side down by 0.5” on each piece. Turn the front waist band so it is facing right side up. At each end place the raw end of each remaining tie so the two pieces of fabric are right sides together and the raw end of the tie is in line with the interfacing and below the turned edge. Sew in place 0.5” in and press the seam towards the waist band. Lay the skirt of the apron right side up on your work surface. Place the front of the waist band so right sides are facing and the seams with the ties line up with the side edges of the skirt. The raw edges of the skirt and waist band should be adjacent to each other. Pin in place. Now flip the whole thing over so the back of the skirt is uppermost. Take the back of the waist band and place this so the raw edges line up with each other. Fold in the short edges so they match the seam between the front waist band and ties. Pin in place so you end up with the skirt sandwiched between the two waist band pieces. Stitch all layers together with a 0.5” seam allowance. Press the waist band front and back up so that the folded edges meet. You may need to alter your folds to ensure all are flush when pressed. Slip the bib in between the layers of the waist band lining up the darts on the bib and apron. Pin in place. Finally edge stitch around the waist band including the short edges. Give it one last press and it is ready. Step 9: Use it Pop that apron on and get baking some lovely treats to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s Jubilee. To see more from Helen follow her on Instagram @phoenix_crafting, Facebook @PhoenixCrafting1 or visit her Etsy. Made by Helen Bowes for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need: 32” x 26” main fabric (corgis) 1 fat quarter navy cotton 1 fat quarter red cotton 30” cord Cord stopper Matching thread ¼ inch seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated. Instructions: 1. Cut out the following: Main fabric - 2 bag mains 15” x 15” Navy - 2 handles 2.5” x 14” - 2 draw string casing 2.5” x 8” Red - 2 facings 15” x 2” - 2 pockets 1 x 7” square cut in half diagonally 2. Take the casing pieces and press ¼” to the wrong size, stitch in place. 3. Press them in half lengthways, wrong sides together and stitch ½” away from folded edge. 4. Take the bag handles, fold in half lengthways right sides together, stitch ¼” from the long raw edges. 5. Turn them right sides out, press. 6. Take the main bag pieces and mark up 6.5” from one corner along the bottom and then 6.5” up the side, repeat on the other piece, but from the other corner (a mirror image). 7. Draw a diagonal line from each point to the other, using tailors chalk or a dressmakers pen. 8. Place the casing on the line, raw edge ¼” over towards the point of the bag. Pin in place. 9. Take one of the red triangles and place the diagonal edge on top of the casing level with the raw edges of the casing. Stitch in place all along the diagonal line. 10. Repeat on the other bag piece, remember to make a mirror image. 11. At the top of each bag piece mark the centre, then place a pin 2 inches either side. 12. Repeat on the other bag piece, remember to make a mirror image. At the top of each bag piece mark the centre, then place a pin 2 inches either side. 13. Take a facing piece and pin, right sides together, across the top of the bag, stitch in place using ½” seam allowance, back stick over the handles to reinforce them. 14. Press the bag pieces well, press the seam allowances up on the bag facings and press the red triangles towards the bottom point of the bag. 15. I used a French seam to sew the main body of the bag together so all the raw edges are enclosed. To do this place the bag pieces wrong sides together, matching the facing seams and the triangles. Stitch around using a ¼” seam allowance. 16. Neaten / straighten up any seam allowance and trim the corners. 17. Turn the bag right side in, press the seams flat, carefully poke out the corners. Pin around the bag, and sew around all the three sides using a seam allowance of just over ¼”. 18. On the top edge of the facing press to the wring side ¼” in, then press the whole of the facing to the wrong side of the bag. Pin and stitch in place. 19. Take the cord and using a safety pin thread it through the blue casing (the channel next to the red triangle) from the side, out at the bottom, then in at the bottom on the other side and out through the side. 20. Press down the cord stop toggle, thread both end of the cord through and tie in a knot. To fold the bag away push it all into the corner with the red triangle and pull the cord tight with the cord stopper. To see more from Stephanie follow her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh. Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Bernadette Wainwright You will need: Fabric as per the pattern. I used Roses from The Crafty Lass Petal & Pip range, 100% organic Cotton, also suitable would be cotton lawn, seersucker, rayon and crepe. Sew Over It Vintage Shirt Dress Pattern Bosal Lightweight Fusible Interfacing 9 x 16mm Self Cover Buttons Sewing Machine and Basic Sewing Kit Introduction: The minute I saw this stunning fabric from Paula, A.K.A. The Crafty Lass, produced by The Craft Cotton Company I knew it would be perfect for a shirt dress but which one? I felt the design of the fabric was quite retro and therefore the Vintage Shirt Dress from Sew Over It would be a perfect match. Step-by-step instructions: All seams are 5/8” or 1.5cms unless otherwise stated. Before starting the project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through all the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. I always like to wash and iron my dressmaking fabric to minimise any shrinkage and ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make. This dress is quite short but I wanted a longer version so increased the overall length by 3”. I also wanted to alter the sleeve as we are coming into summer so I reduced the sleeve length to just above the elbow and added a smaller cuff. Finally the pattern calls for quite a wide fabric but I really wanted to use “Roses” so I reduced the amount of flare in the skirt. All of these alterations can be seen in the photos. 1. Follow the cutting guide as per the pattern. When lengthening a pattern piece, cut the pattern along the “shorten/length” cutting line 2. Add a piece of paper beneath the pattern tissue and carefully Sellotape. I like to use Swedish Tracing Paper for this. Draw in the lines to make sure you are keeping the grain straight. Write on the alteration made. Remember to make the alteration on ALL corresponding pieces, front back AND facings. 3. To alter the sleeve length, draw a straight line 2” longer than the desired finished length on the pattern piece. Remember to widen it slightly at the hem to allow for turning. Cut. 4. The final alterations was to reduce the flare in the skirt. I simply folded over the same amount on each side seam to the width I wanted, ending at the same point on each panel. 5. Transfer all markings, the position of the pleats, buttonholes and buttons before removing the pattern tissue with either tailor’s tacks or the method of your choice. 6. I found this pattern really easy to use and understand. I neatened all of the seams with an over locker but a zig zag stitch would work just as well. 7. Follow steps 1 through to step 6 remembering to press all the seams as you go along in the direction instructed. 8. Now I know stay stitching may seem boring but it really is worth doing, it stops the fabric from stretching out of shape and is done within the seam allowance so is not seen on the right side. Complete the skirt sections 8 & 9. 9. Attach the skirt to the bodice as instructed matching all the seams and pleats. Press. 10. Apply the interfacing following the manufactures’ instructions to the collar and complete through to point 14. Note that not all of the notches match at this stage. 11. Complete the facing from points 15 to 18, take your time as the finishing of the outer edge is quite long. 12. Attach the facing to the dress following points 19 through to 27. If there are any tacking stitches visible, carefully unpick. When clipping into the curved seams be careful, again this is a fiddly job but worth it as it enables the collar to lie flat when turned. Grading the seam allowance also helps with this and reduces the bulk of the seam. 13. Under stitching is another process which makes such a difference to the end result. This stops the facing from rolling to the outside and gives a professional finish. Press, point 28 14. Complete the sleeves, points 29 to 32. 15. As I altered the length of the sleeve and just wanted a small cuff, I overlocked at the hem of each sleeve, turned up 2” and sewed at the base of the overlocking, then pressed. I then turned the sleeve the right way out, folded up the cuff by 7/8” and pressed in place, this just covers the sewing. I then handstitched the cuff as in point 35 16. Insert the sleeve, point 36. If not overlocking, re-enforce the seam between the two bottom notches with a second row of stitching. Beaten the sleeve seam point 37 17. Complete the hem as per the instructions. I love hand sewing so this was a joy for me but you can machine stitch if you wish. 18. Mark the buttonholes on the right hand side of the dress using the tailors tacks as your guide. Follow the instructions as per points 47 and 48 I have done an easy to follow reel on my Instagram page @littlemissdressco showing how to complete the buttonholes and also how to make self-covered buttons which I feel adds that perfect final touch to your unique handmade dress. To see more from Bernadette follow her on Instagram @littlemissdressco and Facebook @LittleMissDressCo. Made by Bernadette Wainwright for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Nicola Hills Fabric: Happy & Glorious Puff Brooches: You will need: Strong Thread Brooch Clasp Toy Filling Button Fabric Tools Required: Basic Sewing Kit Hot Glue Gun Circle Templates x2 sizes How To: Cut 5 Medium Circles from the Fabric. Follow the steps below to create the petal. I use a thicker thread to gather the individual petals and then string all 5 together. Leave a longer thread at the start, to help you gather. Once you have strung all 5 petals, gather in as tight as you can, tie to secure. Repeat with 5 Larger Circles. To make the centre covered button, use another circle of fabric, sew all around the outside and gather slightly. Put the stuffing inside, then the button, gather tightly, sew the back to secure. Layer the smaller flower on top of the larger one, and place the button in the centre. You can sew or hot glue it together. Add the brooch clasp on the back and wear at the Jubilee Party. Star Wand: You will need: Wooden Dowel Star Template Toy Filling Ribbons Buttons Fabric Tools Required: Basic Sewing Kit Heat erasable pen Hot Glue Gun How To: Cut 2 stars from the fabric. R/S together sew around the outside of the star using a 1/4” Seam Allowance. Snip straight across each point. Pinch the centre of the star and make a small slit, turn the star R/S out, push points out very carefully. Stuff with toy filling then hand stitch the opening up. Add buttons to decorate. Cut various ribbons and stitch together at the top. Using the hot glue gun attach the ribbons to the back of the star, then the wooden dowel, a piece of felt can be glued onto the back to hide this. Wave your Wand with pride at the Jubilee Celebrations. Jubilee Crown: You will need: Fabric Elastic Firm Iron on Interfacing Tools Required: Iron Sewing Machine Basic Sewing Kit Crown Paper Template How To: Create a template for the crown Cut 2 x Fabric & 2 x Interfacing Iron the interfacing onto the W/S of both the fabric shapes. Transfer the template shape onto the interfacing. With R/S together pin or clip to secure then sew on the lines you drew. Leave a 3” gap along the centre bottom to turn out, snip straight across each point and into each corner being careful not to cut over the stitches. Turn R/S out through the gap and press points out gently, iron and top stitch the gap closed. Decorate with Buttons, Bells and Bows. To see more from Nicola, follow her on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin or visit her website bobbincottage.wordpress.com. Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Nicky Hills AKA Bobbin Cottage Bodkin You will need: Bee Fabric 2 different styles Patchwork Bee Iron Basic sewing kit Heat erasable pen Hexagon Card board templates x 7 How To: Create a beehive shape paper template and cut 2x outer fabric & 2x lining pieces from fabrics. Place 1x lining and 1x outer fabric r/s together. Draw a circle big enough circle to be able to put your hand inside on the outer fabric. Stitch around the circle. Cut out the middle leaving a 1/4” seam. Trim around into the seam to reduce bulk. Push one side through the hole, finger press out neatly giving you an outer and lining attached. The hole is nice and neat for retrieving pegs, however I made some binding from contrasting fabric to finish off. Cut a 1.5” strip long enough to go round the circle, iron in half widthways, then iron each side into the centre. Top Tip: Pin the binding all around as in the picture above. I know its tedious but it will all be worth it! R/S together sew all around within the first crease you made. Join the two short ends when you get back to where you started by making a crease either side where they join, then lining up as below, sew a diagonal line across. Trim the ends and sew the gap left. Now fold the bias over to the back, finger press neatly down, I prefer to hand sew the backing down so you don’t see the stitches but you could machine if you wish. Now with the peg bags second lining and outer fabric, lay R/S together, pin or clip all around, then sew. Turn right side out through the centre hole and press flat. A very quick guide to EPP *English Paper Piecing’ You will need 7 hexie cardboard templates. These can be found online free to download and use. Top Tip: Use a hole punch to create a centre hole this will be so much easier to remove the template once you have stitched the fabric round. Now its time to join your hexies together. Using a contrasting cotton, r/s together slip stitch Through the edge of the two but not through the cardboard template. Once you have sewn all your hexies together, give them a press and hand stitch onto your peg bag. To see more from Nicky follow her on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin or visit her blog bobbincottage.wordpress.com. Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Written by Alex Holt This dress pattern is for a shirt dress with optional back darts. Include the darts for a fitted dress or leave untouched for a more relaxed style. Made using Curious Cats by Craft Cotton Co. Essential Info: Purchased From: PatternCos Etsy (Celia Dress) Size Range: 6 Sizes (EU 36 – 46, UK 6 – 16) Price: £6.66 Size Chart available with measurements for each size My measurements: Bust: 34" / 86 cm Waist: 27" / 68 cm Hip: 36" / 92 cm Height: 5" 5' Size Used: EU 40 Fabric used: Curious Cats by Craft Cotton Co Pattern Link: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/873387444/celia-sixties-buttoned-dress-6-sizes-pdf?ref=yr_purchases Recently, I've been trying out a range of patterns to prepare for summer, and with my twice postponed Florida holiday approaching, I have been on the hunt for casual tops and dresses that are comfy and easy to walk around in. As I will be walking around different theme parks with possible limited access to shade, I have been searching for patterns that will provide coverage from the sun that will also keep me cool. I came across this shirt dress which will do the trick nicely, and as I have had previous experience making shirts, I thought it would be easy for me to do. Pattern Pieces As usual, I downloaded the pattern pdfs from Etsy and there were multiple versions depending on which method you chose to print it out. I chose the A4 version and printed it off at actual size. I found this pattern really easy to stick together, it comes with different coloured lines for each size which show up really well when using a decent printer. It also has helpful boxes which can be lined up easily. Out of all the pdf patterns I have done, the design of this one is the best. Instead of cutting out the specific size I wanted which was EU 40, I chose to fold the pattern pieces along the size 40 lines, cutting into curved lines to lay down the excess paper. This preserves all the sizes so if I want to make a dress for someone else or if I chose the wrong size, I could open up the pattern and refold it to select a different size. The pattern includes markings for the darts and for the buttons / buttonholes. To mark these on the pattern pieces without moving the paper out of the way, I made tailor tacks. I only recently discovered how to do tailor tacks, but now I can't go without doing them. It ensures all my markings will be in the correct places, making it easier when it comes to sewing. Instructions The pdfs come with an attached 'indications' file, which has information such as the seam allowances. Certain areas of pattern pieces require different seam allowances, but these are easily labelled in the file using drawings of the pattern pieces. Again, coloured lines are used to differentiate these. Construction instructions are explained in a video which you can access via a password given in one of the pdfs. The video is in Spanish, but there are English subtitles which are easy to follow. The creator of the pattern shows each step of construction, as she makes the dress along with you. I find following a video the best way of learning how to make a pattern, because I am a visual learner and struggle to picture what written instructions ask me to do. I find this especially difficult when patterns use techniques and terms, I am unaware of. Construction My practice dress was very successful, so I immediately made a second using fabric from the Curious Cats collection by Craft Cotton Co, which coincidentally I designed. A little secret is that the cats featured in the range are all past or present pets of friends, myself and our Head Designer Vicky! The fabric is 100% cotton, making it comfortable and breathable, which is perfect for the summer. The fabric also maintains its shape so there is no need to worry about the collar losing its structure. There is the option to add stabiliser to the collar and interfacing if you are using a lighter fabric, but I didn't need it as the cotton is stiff enough. The construction of the garment was pretty simple and similar to what I had done before. Although, this pattern adopted a different collar and interfacing method to the last shirt I had done. In that shirt the interfacing was separate and had to be attached which was more fiddly and awkward to do. This method this pattern uses is so much simpler, as the interfacing simply folds over and then is attached to the collar. I will be making a lot more shirt dresses using this pattern because of this, as it makes the whole thing so easy to make. I think for my next one I will try a viscose fabric to test my skills and have a floatier dress at the end of it. Another positive about this pattern is that all the raw edges end up tucked away, as there is a lot of double folding seams. I chose to serge all my raw edges before I started making the dress, but it is not necessary. The only exposed areas at the end are the side seams and around the collar, but you have the option to use bias binding to hide the raw edges around the collar. Everything else is double folded and then topstitched. Conclusion This is a great pattern and one of the easiest I have followed. The final fit of the dress was perfect, and I plan to make many more in different fabrics. It is beginner friendly and teaches you how to create a perfectly finished shirt dress. I also like the method they used to construct the interfacing and collar, as it makes a tricky technique really simple. The final garment is very comfortable, especially if bias binding is used around the inside seam of the collar. I hope you all enjoyed reading my first pattern review and found it useful. Keep an eye out for future pattern reviews and happy sewing! To see more from Alex follow her on Instagram @alexkholt. Written by Alex Holt for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Helen Bowes Fabric: Afternoon Tea Step 1: Assemble supplies To make your double oven mitt you will need the following items: Fabric for the exterior Fabric for the lining Fabric for the pocket Fabric to make bias binding or store-bought bias binding Wadding – ideally you want one that insulates such as Insul-Bright which can be sourced from places like amazon Insul-Bright - Insulated Wadding 45" (112cm) x 1m : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen Fabric pen/pencil/chalk Scissors / rotary cutter Sewing machine Thread Iron and Ironing board Dinner plate Rule / tape measure Pins / clips Step 2: Cut pieces For the exterior and lining pieces, you need to cut a rectangle of 7” x 35” from each fabric. The pocket requires 4 rectangles 7” x 10”. From the wadding you will need one rectangle 7” x 35” and two rectangles 7” x 10”. Step 3: Make the pocket Sandwich your wadding between two pieces of pocket fabric. If you are using fabric with a pattern, the bottom piece needs to be placed wrong side up, then the wadding, followed by the top piece face up. Once all edges are lined up, baste them together. Once sewn and secure, use bias binding to bind one short edge of the pocket. Repeat on the other pocket piece. TIP -You can make your own bias binding quite easily – see the end of this tutorial for instructions. Step 4: Make the glove As you did with the pocket in step 3, you need to make a wadding sandwich again. Place your first patterned fabric down with the wrong side facing up. On top of this put your wadding, followed by your second patterned fabric right side up. Baste the three layers together, sewing as close to the edge as possible. If there is wadding protruding after stitching, trim this as close as you can to the stitch line without cutting the stitching. Next, you need to attach the pockets to the oven glove. To do this place you pocket pieces at end laying them on top of the fabric sandwich you have just made. Ensure the short edge which has been bound it facing down the fabric rectangle. Using clips or pins, secure it in place and then baste together. Once finished, trim off any excess fabric without cutting through the stitch line. To create rounded ends, place a dinner plate over the end of the pocket and glove and use a water soluble or air soluble marker to mark the rounded edge. Once drawn on, you can cut away the excess to create the traditional oven glove shape. Step 5: Bias Binding Now the glove and pockets are all attached, you can use your bias binding to go round the whole thing and bind it together. This creates a crisp edge and gives it a professional look. Use clips or pins to hold it in place whilst you sew it together. Step 6: Get baking With the completed oven glove, you can now put on your ruffle apron and start baking those tasty treats. TIP: How to make Bias binding 1. Decide what width you want your finished bias binding to be. In this project one side of the bias binding was 1cm. 2. You will need to mark out strips 4cm wide going diagonally across your fabric. 3. Cut out your strips. 4. You can use a specific bias binding kit to make your binding by feeding it into the binding maker and ironing the folds as they emerge. 5. If you don’t have a kit, then you simply fold your fabric in half and iron a crease into it. Open it back out again and then fold each edge in, so they meet at the centre crease, and then press with you iron. 6. At this stage for both techniques you now fold the fabric in half along the centre line, press and you have your binding ready to use. To see more from Helen, follow her on Instagram @phoenix_crafting or Facebook @PhoenixCrafting1. Made by Helen Bowes for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Sarah Holliman AKA SJ Stitchery Have you tried the #CCCSCRAPTHATCHALLENGE ? How about using your scrap fabric to create a whole new medium to work with ? Let’s have a go at creating our own Fabric Yarn This project has been such fun. I have used my scrap pieces to create Yarn. Yes, cotton yarn, that you can actually knit or crochet with HOW EXCITING ! Shopping Basket Various lengths of scrap fabric, you could use old clothing, fabric scraps, sheets, the only limit is your imagination! Cardboard tube for ball inner Rotary Cutter and Ruler How to make your Fabric Yarn: 1. Using a rotary cutter and ruler, cut your fabric pieces into strips measuring one inch wide. You will need lots of strips, obviously the more strips you have the larger the ball of yarn. 2. Begin to join the fabric strips into one long length of yarn. I joined my strips in a bias binding method for extra strength. 3. Once all the strips are joined, fold the strips in half widthways and press with an iron. 4. Begin winding one end of the strip around a small piece of cardboard tubing. Keep rolling your Yarn Ball until all the fabric is wound. You are now ready to make something amazing ! I decided to make a crochet wall-hanging. I love crochet and it works really easily with Fabric Yarn. I used a No. 10 crochet hook and chained 8 stitches for my foundation row. I simply worked in double crochet and kept repeating rows until my Yarn Ball was almost finished. I added a couple of loops at the top of the piece to thread onto a wooden dowel and knotted a little of the remaining yarn at the bottom of the piece to create some cute little tassels. Why not have a go at creating your own piece of wall art. Experiment with knit or crochet and try larger or smaller needles to create different effects. You will be totally surprised at just what you can create! To see more from Sarah, follow her on Instagram @sjstitchery or visit her website sjstitchery.com. Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Alex Holt If like me, and as soon as its sunny you want to make a whole new summer wardrobe, this bucket hat tutorial is the perfect project to start with. Using a free template made by Jenna Phipps and following the corresponding YouTube video ‘How To: Sew a bucket hat’. I made this reversible bucket hat in Craft Cotton Co's Flourish and Grow fabrics. Step 1: Place the pattern pieces on the folded fabric, following the instructions printed on the pattern pieces. In total 10 pattern pieces will be cut out, 5 from each fabric. For this pattern I used two fabrics from the Flourish and Grow range. Step 2: Pin the 4 brim pattern pieces to a large piece of fusible interfacing and cut around them to trace the shapes. Place the brim pattern piece right side down and the interfacing, glue side down. Then iron the interfacing to the pattern piece. This will give the brim structure, so it doesn’t fall into your eyes. I doubled up on the interfacing for extra strength as the cotton is thinner than traditional bucket hat fabric. Step 3: Organise the pattern pieces into two groups according to fabric design. You will be making two separate hats that are joined together at the end. Match up the same pattern pieces right sides together, and pin at the opposite ends. Sew the ends together along the pinned line with a ¼" seam allowance. Once sewed iron the seams open. Step 4: Take the main pattern pieces, (now sewn together at either end) and the circle pattern piece. Pin the circle around the opening of the main hat pattern piece, right sides together. This will mean the circle pattern piece will be right side down. I had to snip around the circle to ensure the pattern piece lined up with the main panel pieces. Once pinned, sew along the pinned edge with a ¼" seam allowance. Iron the seam allowance downwards and topstitch to finish. Step 5: Follow a similar method when attaching the main hat to the brim. Turn the main hat right side outwards and slip the brim over the top right side down. With the right sides together, pin around the edge. You may need to snip around the base of the main hat to make it line up with the brim. For this particular hat I wanted a slightly tighter fit so I increased my machines stitch length to 5 and sewed along the edge of the main hat, leaving excess thread when I took the hat off the machine. I then pulled on the top thread and gathered the fabric slightly so it lined up with the brim. Once lined up and pinned, sew around the edge with a ¼" seam allowance to attach the brim to the main hat. Step 6: Iron the seam allowance so it rests against the brim and top stitch all the way around. Repeat steps 4-6 for both hats. Step 7: Place both hats right sides together and pin around the edge. Sew the two hats together with a ¼" seam allowance, leaving a hole big enough to turn the hat right side out. Step 8: Once the hat is turned the right way, iron the brim and close up the hole with topstitching. Then pin along the top edge of the brim to keep the layers together. Step 9: To finish off the hat, create 4 rows of topstitching around the brim of the hat, each measuring 1cm away from the last. This creates the hats recognisable lines and completes the make! To see more from Alex follow her on Instagram @alexkholt. Made by Alex Holt for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by SJ Stitchery Get ready for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee! Make your own Jubilee Flowers and Rag Wreath and join in the Celebrations. You will need: One pack of Craft Cotton Co Jubilee Fat Quarters Various lengths of Jubilee fabric/Plain Red/White/Blue fabric Wadding/Felt/Bosal In R Form Wire Wreath (I used an 8 inch wreath) Scissors/ Pins/Thread/Needles For this project, I made two different styles of flower. One is a simple ruffle flower with a button centre and the other is a double ruffle flower attached to a larger flower shaped base. The construction of the flower is the same for both. Method: 1. To make the ruffle flower, cut a 2.5 inch strip length of fabric. You could use a variety of lengths, they will give a different fullness to your ruffles. I like to use approximately one metre lengths of fabric. For the larger flowers, I used two lengths of fabric to create a double ruffle 2. Cut 2.5 inch strips of fabric and fold in half lengthwise to form a 1.25 inch strip. Use a zig zag stitch to secure the raw ends together. 3. Gather up your strips using small running stitches – pull into a frill and secure tightly. 4. Cut a circle shape of approximately 5 cm from Bosal In R Form or Felt for the small flower base. 5. Begin to stitch your ruffle onto your circle base in a spiral direction, completing the ruffle in the centre of the circle. This will form the rosette effect. Remove any loose ends of thread. 6. Add a small button of fabric to the centre of the flower to complete. I also added a circle of felt to the back of the flower and added a brooch back. 7. For the larger flower, I made the rosette in exactly the same way but instead of using a circle for the base, I made a large flower shape. 8. To make the base, cut a large flower shape from wadding or Bosal in R Form. 9. Take two pieces of fabric, slightly larger than the flower shape and with right sides together, pin the flower shape on to the top of the fabric. 10. Sew all around the flower shape, leaving a gap for turning. Turn the whole piece inside out. Sew up the gap and press with an iron. 11. Now sew your ruffles onto your base flower. Start on the outer edge and work inwards stitching the ruffle in a spiral direction. I used two ruffles for the larger flower to give a fuller effect. 12. Add a little button detail to the centre. I made my flowers into a decorated Rag Wreath. Perfect for all of your Jubilee Celebrations. To make the Jubilee Wreath; Cut 1.5 inch strips of fabric and knot them onto the wire wreath. Keep knotting the fabrics in your chosen pattern until the wire is covered. When the wreath is full, attach the flowers securely. To see more from Sarah follow her on Instagram @sjstitchery or visit her website sjstitchery.com. Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.