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After making a ruched top a few weeks ago I've found that it's quickly become a style I want to make again and again. It looks complicated but is actually simple to do which is always a bonus with homemade clothes. The sewing of this top is a fun process that gives such good results! I love how professional ruched effect is. This is my second make from the Tilly and the Buttons jersey range with Craft Cotton Co and the fabric was so perfect for this top. I used the 'Allsorts' jersey fabric which is a fun geometric shapes design. I didn't want the print to look too childish which is why I think it works so well with the style of this top. The jersey is the perfect weight for the ruching creating a nice and even bunching effect. I decided to add short sleeves partly as I was limited by the amount of fabric I had but also so that the print wouldn't be overpowering. The shorter sleeve worked really well, for me it adds to the summery look of a top that I'll definitely be wearing on holiday. Both the sleeves and the hem are finished with a row of double topstitching to add a professional feel. The v-neck is definitely the hardest part of this top and mine is far from perfect! But the best thing about the ruching is that it hides most of the mistakes. I actually found I really like the v-neck style when wearing this top even though it's not something I've been drawn towards in the past, so I might make myself a v-neck top without ruching at some point. The longer back balances out the front of this top. As an added bonus, it gives a really nice uninterrupted view of the fabric! You might be able to see that there is actually a scoop in the back neckline. This wasn't something done intentionally and I wouldn't have notice had my mum not pointed it out but it's a random detail that I actually quite like!  While the sleeves are short they're not cap sleeves as I felt it was important to make them long enough to once again balance out the front. I was tempted to make them elbow length, but this has ended up being a nice compromise. I really love this top! The more complicated design gave a real sense of satisfaction to the making process. It's fun and easy to wear, I really like the style and I think it fits the fabric perfectly. It's definitely one I'll be wearing throughout the summer and hopefully on holiday too. Made by Anna for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Helen Bowes When this fabric came up, I couldn’t think of anything better to do with it than make some doggy bandanas……. And I had the perfect models. As always start by gathering your supplies. For this project you will need the following: · Cutting mat, rotary cutter/scissors · Ruler, tailors chalk or vanishing pen/pencil · Material · Sewing machine and thread · Paper for template · Pins or clips · Dog collar Stage one is making your template. For this you will need the measurements of your dog’s collar and to know how big you want the bandana to be. Measure the length and width of your dog’s collar and draw this rectangle onto you template paper. Work out how long you want your bandana to be. The best way to do this is to measure on your dog from where their collar sits to their shoulder blades or further down their back depending on how big you want it to be. Once you know this length, measure from the middle of your collar line down. From this create a point with lines going from the ends of your collar outline to the tip of your length line. Now give yourself a ½ inch seam line – I drew this in so I knew where it would be. Your template should look something like this: Once you have your template use it to trace the pattern onto your fabric. You will need to do this twice, so you end up with two triangles of fabric. Place your two pieces so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Pin or clip into place. Now you are ready to sew the first seam which will join the two pieces together along the long straight line. Sew with a ½ inch seam. Once sewn press flat. Next fold your short edges in, first one turn of ½ inch followed by a second turn of ½ inch so in total the edge has been folded in by 1 inch. Repeat for the other side. Press flat and then sew so all layers of material are captured. Once this has been completed you can create the seam for the remaining edges by sewing from the bottom of your rectangle section to the tip of the triangle and back down the other side. You have ½ inch seam allowance here. Once sewn, you can now turn your bandana the right way around by feeding it through one of the openings on the side. With it the right way around, press it flat. The final stage is to sew the bottom of the rectangle so making a sleeve for the collar to slide through. Draw on a line from the bottom corner of one short side to the other and sew along this line. Your bandana is now complete and ready to be modelled. For a variation use two different fabrics and make a reversible bandana. To see more from Helen, visit her Instagram @phoenix_crafting Made by Helen Bowes for The Craft Cotton Co 2020

Project by Gill Rich How cute is this quilted bag, just big enough to take out with your few essentials like purse, phone and keys. These fabrics are just great for the summer months. It can also be made using your larger scrap pieces. To make it, you will need the following: Five or six different fabrics, I chose the Elegant Peacock collection from Cotton Craft Co, designed by Sarah Payne. Co-ordinating/Contrasting thread Pins, preferably quilting Tape measure/Ruler Wadding Medium iron on interfacing Fabric marker NOTE : Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout Cut your fabrics:- for the outer bag, cut strips of fabric at least 9” long and 2” wide, you will need about 16. For the top strip, cut two pieces 2.5” by 13”, for the middle strip, cut two pieces 1” x 13”, for the bottom one piece 4.5” x 13”, two pieces 4” x 14” for the handles, for the lining one piece 13” x 25”. Sew all the 9” strips together to make two panels about 14” wide and press the seams open. Trim to 8.5” x 13”. Line your pieces up ready to sew. You will need to attach the top strip to the inch middle strip, then the main panel and finally the bottom. Repeat for the other side so that the two main panels are then stitched to the long edge of the bottom piece. It should look like this Press flat and lay your outer bag on top of the wadding ensuring there are no creases. Ake sure you put plenty of pins in to stop it moving while you are quilting it. This is where you need to decide how to quilt it. I did diamonds on the vertical strips, straight quilting on the top strip and a decorative stitch on the small strip, like this Next, you need to apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the lining and bag handles following the manufacturer’s instructions. Fold the lining in half and stitch slightly more than the 1cm seam allowance down each side. On one side, leave a turning gap of approximately 4”. Repeat for the outer bag but stitch all the way down each side. To box the corners, flatten the corner so that the seam runs down the middle like this Measure across the seam with a quilter’s ruler so that it sits at 4” and draw a line across, this will be your stitching line. Repeat for the two outer bag corners and the corners of the lining. Once you have stitched across, trim off the excess. To make the bag handles, fold in half lengthways and press, open out and fold each raw edge to the middle and press again, fold in half. Your handle should measure 1” in width. Repeat for the other handle. Top stitch 1/8” along each long edge. To attach the handles to the bag, mark the centre of the bag with a pin and measure 2” out each side. Place the bag handle at this point, pin the raw edges to the top edge of the bag making sure the handle isn’t twisted. Repeat for the other side and baste in place. You’ve nearly finished! so next place your outer bag inside the lining right sides together, you need to make sure that the straps are tucked well inside. Pin the bag sections together, aligning your side seams. Sew all the way around the top using 3/8” seam allowance. Make sure that you reverse stitch a few times at the start and at the end of sewing. Now, turn the bag through that turning gap you left in the side seam so that the inner bag is on the outside. Once it is all the right way around, you need to sew up the gap in the lining with a nice neat slip stitch. To finish, press the top section of your bag and top stitch around the top about 1/8” inch from the edge. Now, press the rest of the bag and there you have a cute quilted bag. (I also made a matching coin purse too)!! To see more from Gill, visit her Instagram @designbygill66 Made by Gill Rich for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Here's a tutorial on how to make this really handy phone case/wallet! I've used a fat quarter pack of this cute cat fabric from The Craft Cotton Company which is perfect for any cat lover, alternatively you can make this using any left over fabric from previous projects! I had fabric left over from my fat quarters that I can save for any smaller makes too. Here's what you'll need to make this case based on my phone measurements (iPhone X- 3"x 5.5") : -8"x 10" of outer fabric -8"x 10" of lining fabric -8"x 10" of wadding - I used single-sided fusible fleece but use what you prefer - 2 8"x 8" of pocket fabric - 1 8"x 6" of pocket fabric - 2 4"x 6.5" of flap fabric - 2.5" x 14" of strap fabric - 1/2" D ring - 1" swivel clip - 1 magnetic snap If your phone doesn't measure the same as mine, place your phone on your outer fabric and cut 1" around the phone on 3 sides, then roll the phone over once and add about 1.5" for the middle section of the case. 1. For the pockets, fold the pieces you've cut in half length ways and press. Stitch along the folded line close to the edge. 2. For the flap, round the bottom 2 corners of each piece of fabric. I used 'fussy cutting' so the cats are in a good position when the case is made! 3. For the strap, press it as you would to make bias binding - fold the long edges to meet in the middle and press. Now fold the strap in half again width ways so both the long creased edges meet and press. Sew down the length of the strap close to the edge. Cut off 2" of the strap for the d-ring. 4. Iron the wadding onto the back of the outer piece of fabric. Fleece will give you're phone a bit more protection. 5. Attach one part of the magnetic snap onto the inside piece of flap fabric about 1" away from the bottom edge. Use a small piece of scrap fabric for extra security. Attach the other part to the snap on the outer fabric - fold the outer piece as if the case is already made to see where the snap needs to go (approx. 2" in). 6. Place the flap pieces right sides together and sew around the curved edge and along the sides. Leave the top open as this will be sewn in the lining. Turn right side out and be sure to push out the corners and press. 7. Place the pocket pieces onto the lining piece. The 2 bigger pocket pieces go either end of the lining and the shorter pocket goes over the top of the left longer pocket. This creates the staggered wallet style pockets. Make sure the stitched sides of the pockets are facing inwards. Sew down the middle of the staggered pockets and sew a few stitches close to the edges of each pocket to tack in place. 8. Thread the 2" piece of strap through the d-ring and sew to one side of the case in the middle. 9. Sew the flap to the side of the case - magnetic snap side down. 9. Place the outer piece on top of this right sides together and sew all around the edge with a 1/4" seam allowance. Leave a gap for turning along the middle opposite the d-ring. 10. Cut across the corners, avoiding the stitches and turn right side out. Push out the corners and press. 11. Top stitch around the entire case and make sure you are able to sew the opening closed while doing this. 12. To sew the strap, thread the strap through the swivel clasp. Zig-zag stitch the ends together. 13. Move the stitched part of the strap so that it is hidden under the swivel clasp and sew across the width to keep in place. 14. Here is what the finished case will look like! To see more from Kimberley, visit her blog here!

Project by What Kimberley Sews If you’re just starting to sew or are an experienced sewer, this is a lovely and easy way to coordinate your sewing machine accessories and keep your machine clean when it isn’t in use. This is a tutorial on how to make the machine dust cover, matching sewing machine mat and biscornu pin cushion. I’ve used a 5 piece fat quarter pack of the busy bee print fabric from Craft Cotton Company for a fresh, springtime feel, hope you enjoy this tutorial! Sewing machine dust cover - What you'll need: -2 pieces of outer fabric measuring 16x14.5 inches (measure this against your machine, if yours in smaller or bigger then adjust the amount you’ll need. Add about half an inch to both the height and width to allow for seams -2 pieces of lining fabric measuring the same -2 x Wadding measuring the same – I used fusible fleece -2 x fabric for the lining of the pocket measuring 17x6.5 inches (I’ve measured the strip slightly wider than the width of the outer fabric pieces so adjust according to your fabric size) I’ve used some scrap blue fabric for mine as you won’t really see these -13 strips of fabric for the pocket front measuring 2x7 inches (approx.) as long as the strips are longer than the pocket lining pieces, that’s fine! -4 strips of ribbon approx. 10 inches long 1. Lay the first strip of fabric onto one of the pocket lining pieces - right side facing up. 2. Place the second strip on top of the first at a slight angle, right sides together. Placing it at an angle will give the uneven, slanted effect. Sew down the right edge of the second strip as close to the raw edge as possible. TIP - Make sure your second piece stays on top of the first and doesn't go onto the lining fabric as this will leave a gap! 3. Fold the second strip over so the right side is facing up and press the seam flat. 4. Place the third strip, right sides together, on top of the second at a slightly different angle. Again, don't let the strip go onto the lining. Sew down the right side of the strip. 5. Fold the third strip back and press. 6. Carry on doing this until the lining fabric is completely covered in the strips. 7. Take the second pocket lining fabric and place, right sides together, on top of the strips. Sew along the top and bottom raw edges with about 1/4 inch seam allowance to create a tube. 8. Turn this tube right sides out and press. Top stitch across the top. This is now your pocket! 9. Iron your wadding to the back of the 2 outer pieces of fabric you've cut. 10. Place the pocket piece onto the front outer piece of fabric, about half an inch up from the bottom. Sew across the bottom edge of the pocket to attach it. Use 1/4 inch seam allowance or as small as possible. Sew down the middle of the pocket to create a divide. 11. Sew the ribbons to either side facing inwards, about 7 inches from the bottom, just above the pocket. Do the same on the back piece. 12. Sew the lining pieces right sides together across the top. 13. Sew the outer pieces together in the same way. Trim back the excess pocket if you have any! 14. Place the lining pieces on top of the outer pieces, right sides together, and sew around the edge making sure the seams are matching. Leave a gap for turning. 15. Turn right side out and press. Top stitch round the edge, making sure the gap you left is tucked in. And that's your dust cover! Sewing machine mat - What you’ll need: -1 x top fabric measuring 18x12 inches (or whatever size you would like yours to be) mine is the ‘sweet as honey’ print -1 x bottom fabric measuring the same – mine is the grey flowers -1 x wadding measuring the same size -2 x lining fabric for the panel measuring 4x13 inches (slightly longer than your mat fabric) I used some scrap blue fabric again; you won’t see this! -9 strips of fabric for the panel measuring 4.5x2 inches (again make sure the strips are wider than the lining fabric you use) 1. Sew the panel together in the same way as shown for the dust cover pocket. (see steps 1-8) 2. Iron the wadding onto the back of the top piece of fabric for the mat. 3. Place the panel on top of the mat wherever you'd like it positioned. Mine is about 2.5 inches from the right. Sew down both long edges to attach. 4. Place the bottom fabric, right sides together, on top of the mat. Sew around the edge and leave a gap for turning. 5. Turn right side out and press. Top stitch around the mat, making sure the gap is tucked in. and there's your mat! Biscornu pin cushion - What you'll need: -2 squares of fabric measuring 5x5 inches -Toy filler -2 buttons -Doll needle or a long needle (if you have one) 1. Mark  the centre points of all sides on both pieces of fabric. 2. Line up the corner of one square with the centre mark of the second square, right sides together, move over by 1/4 inch and sew. Stop 1/4 inch from the next mark. (This is the seam allowance) 3. With the needle own on your machine, turn the fabric so the raw edges are together and sew to the second mark. 4. Repeat with all edges, laving a small gap for turning. 5. Turn right side out and stuff. Hand sew the gap closed. 6. Using the doll needle, attach the buttons to each side of the pin cushion. Pull the thread tight so it squashes the cushion on the middle slightly. And that's your pin cushion! To see more from Kimberley, visit her blog What Kimberley Makes and on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes Made by Kimberley for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Katie Done My Husband had mentioned he would like the Dads Lab book for Christmas, so I thought it made a great joint present for him and my little dude. As soon as the book arrived and I saw all the colours, my thoughts went to the Natural History Museum Future Scientist collection. I decided to make a project bag to keep the book in along with some of the things needed for the experiments. It is a simple tote bag with a pocket on the front and could be used as a shopping bag or a similar concept with a craft book. I have used a 1/4" seam allowance throughout. YOU WILL NEED Future Scientist Fat Quarters Half Metre Orange Fabric Scissors Rotary Cutter, Ruler and Mat Pins Interfacing Sewing Machine Iron and Ironing Board Loop Turner (optional) METHOD 1. Cut the fabric as follows: Lining x2 - 15" x 15" (orange) Front x1 - 15" x 15" (white background) Back x1 - 15" x 15" (blue background) Pocket x 1 - 10" x 10" (future scientist fussy cut & interfacing) Straps x4 - 44" (full bolt width) x 2" (orange & interfacing) 2. Iron the interfacing to two of the straps. The width of the interfacing was shorter than the fabric, so I just did the interfacing in two parts and ironed them slightly overlapping. Iron interfacing to the back of the pocket. 3. Fold the top of the pocket over to the back by 1/4", twice, press and sew. I love how perfect this design is for fussy cutting the pocket. 4. With a non-interfaced and an interfaced piece of strap, place them right sides together and sew down the 2 short edges. Repeat this with the remaining two strap pieces. Turn them out (I used my loop turner but you could use your preferred method such as a safety pin). Press them 5. Find the centre of the bottom edge of the front panel and the pocket. Line them up. Place the end of the strap so it overlaps the pocket by around 1/2" and pin the three pieces together. Repeat with the other end of the strap on the other side of the pocket. Make sure the strap doesn't twist. I have put a pin 2.5" from the top. When it comes to sewing, I will only sew up to this point. 6. I used an orange thread to top stitch the straps down. at the 2.5" mark I have sewn a square with a cross through for extra strength. 7. Repeat with the other side but without the pocket (unless you want to add a bonus pocket). Just make sure the straps are the same difference away on the back. 8. Pin front and back right sides together. and sew around three sides. Make sure the straps are sticking out, so you don't catch them in the seams. Repeat with the two lining pieces. 9. To make the square edges, keep your bag inside out. open the corner up so the bottom seam and the side seam match up and make a point. Pin in place and sew. back stitch at the start and end. I have sewn around 1/4" from the strap. The distance you use is up to you, just make sure you do the same distance each time. Trim the excess. repeat this with the lining. 10. Turn the lining to the right way around and place it inside the front so they are right sides together. Make sure the straps are tucked into the bag. Sew all the way around leaving a gap to turn it out. 11. Turn the bag out, press and top stitch all the way around, ensuring you catch the turning gap. Your bag is ready to fill! I must point out that the plastic straws are some we have had in the cupboard for years. I don't ever use them because we have metal ones now, but it seems a shame to just bin them. I would much rather they were used for some science experiments. The boys have done loads of the experiments from this book already. Our favourite was the invisible fire extinguisher. To see more from Katie, visit her blog www.thefabricsquirrel.com and on Instagram @thefabricsquirrel Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

You will need: 3 different Natural History Museum FQ’s and/or plain fabric for lining. 3 long zips Bosal Foam or Fabric Stiffener Basic Sewing Kit 1/4 Seam was used all around I cut my first fabrics 12’’ x 10’’ = 2 for the outer and 2 for the lining. Cut 2 of the same measurement of Bosal Foam or Iron on interfacing. Measure the zip across the top of the fabric add the tabs 1” in (see photo below) Place the zip R/S down onto outer fabric piece, open the zip as far back as you can to ease sewing. Place the lining on top, R/S with the outer with the zip sandwiched in between. Pin to secure. Use the zipper foot to sew along the top, when you get 3/4 of the way to the end, stop sewing and lift the foot as you need to close the zip to continue stitching to the end. Repeat for the other side. Open out flat, and press the seams down with the iron. Top stitch across so that the zip opens smoothly. Now undo zip again. Pull the two outer pieces together, pin to secure. Now repeat for the lining. Make a small tab for a handle. 2” fabric strip, fold each side into the middle lengthways, then fold one edge over to the other, press and sew down each side. Fold and tuck the tab into the case between the two outer fabrics with the raw edges poking out. TOP TIP Did you open the zip??? Sew all around the case, but leave a 3” gap in the centre bottom or Side of the lining piece. Turn inside out, poke out corners gently, smooth down. Sew up the gap in the lining. Box Bag: The instructions are almost the same, except instead of cutting rectangles you need to cut the shape below x4. Then it is just folded and sewn like a square bottom bag. Middle Zipper Case: Constructed the same as the first zipper bag except you need to construct the bag with the zip in the centre rather than the top. I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. If you decide to ‘have a go’ please share your creations with me @bobbincottagebodkin and @craftcottonco on instagram Nicola Hills x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

You will need: Fat Quarter Set - Classic Tile Wool Thread Wadding Backing Fabric Wooden Dowel Tools Required: Basic Sewing Kit Sewing Machine Pom Pom Maker Cutting Mat and Ruler Instructions: Cut fabric strips 3” wide, then 64 diamond shapes using an angle of 45 degrees on your cutting mat. Lay them out in a pattern which suits you. Begin to sew in rows. TOP TIP use a 1⁄4” seam allowance, pin the first few so you understand how to place the diamonds before you sew. I arranged them two to a row (in a V shaped pattern x 4 leaving the point down the bottom) Press each seam flat. Cut off ‘dog ears’ When you have all 8 rows you then stitch them together, remember to keep to your pattern it’s a good idea to take a picture on your mobile phone, you can check if you have the layout you wanted. Once all the rows are sewn and pressed, there is two ways of doing the next step. 1) lay out your Backing Fabric & Wadding then place your wall hanging on top. This will need to be bound and with those points might be a bit tricky which is why I went for the easy option *wink* 2) Just place the wadding underneath the wall hanging top piece. Smooth out and pin or clip to secure. I like to top stitch around my project to hold it in place. Then you can quilt as required. If you did step 2, once you have quilted place the backing fabric R/S to R/S with the wall hanging and sew around the edge all round, leaving a 3” gap at the top to turn out. Turn out your wall hanging paying particular caution to the points, use a pokey out tool gently. Iron, then hand sew the gap at the top. Next, make 4 big fluffy Pom Poms ☺ There are several ways, I have a Pom Pom Maker. Once made and tied off I used strong thread to tie all around the pom pom middle, leaving two long threads, sew them straight onto each of the points. The Quote was added afterwards by using a Cricut machine and Heat Press I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. Please share your makes with us @bobbincottagebodkin @craftcottonco x Nicola Hills x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Where to start with these trousers?! I have been dreaming of making a pair of gingham trousers for such a long time and I finally made a pair! Ever since I made my gingham top last year I've been obsessed with gingham. My top has been one of my most worn me-made items ever and I've also made a pair of gingham shorts which I wore all through summer, so it was only natural that a pair of trousers would be on their way! These are also perfect for autumn and apparently for taking photos in front of red post boxes too. It took me a while to find the right pattern for these trousers. I had quite a strong idea in my mind of what I wanted and although the pattern I chose doesn't have exactly the same features, the trousers have turned out perfectly. I've seen quite a few pairs of gingham trousers available in shops on the high street, and was particularly inspired by those in Zara for the cigarette-style trouser leg (although I didn't want a belt). The pattern is the Cinnamon Trousers by CocoWawa Crafts, which has the added bonus of coming with a really clear sew-along video too. It features an elasticated waist at the back which makes fitting much easier as well as an invisible zip at the side. I'm really pleased with this pattern and I expect I'll be making another pair at some point! A feature of the pattern that I knew I wanted to keep was the pleats at the pockets. I did worry slightly that the trousers would be too out-there with the pleats and the gingham but actually I feel as though the pleats add a nice bit of interest while still being subtle enough to not be over-the-top. The pattern does come with an option for ruffles/pleats at the hem of the trousers too, but I think that would have been a step too far! As for the fabric, it's perfect for the trousers I had in mind. If you recognise it it's because it's actually exactly the same fabric that I used for my gingham top last year. I wear the top all the time and the gingham is exactly the right combination of size and colour so I knew I wanted to make the trousers out of the same fabric. The lovely people at Craft Cotton Co very kindly sent me some more of the gingham in order to make my trouser dreams come true, thank you so much! As you've probably guessed by now, I love these trousers! I thought about making them for so long and I'm so glad I finally did. It's definitely Autumn now and so I expect that these trousers will be getting a lot of wear over the next few months. I expect I have more gingham items of clothing than the average person now, although I make no promises that there won't be more in the future! By Anna at Lets Get Sewing for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #gingham #dressmaking #trousers #sewing #freesewingtutorial

This classy cushion cover is actually a lot simpler to make than you might think! No button holes or zips, a beginner could easily make this! Use a ¼” seam allowance Made with A Cottage Garden by Debbie Shore fabric Materials: 12” square cushion pad 45” x 13” poppy stripe fabric 20” x 12 ½”” dragonfly script pink fabric 4 buttons Scallop template [download] Step 1 - Cut two rectangles of poppy stripe fabric measuring 10” x 12 ½”. Place your template along the edge of one piece, and draw around the scallop shape. You should have ¼” left at each end of the template. Step 2 - Place the two rectangles right sides together, sew over the drawn line. Cut out the scalloped shape, approx. 1/8” from the stitch line, then snip into the ‘V’ shapes, be careful not to cut the stitches! Step 3 - Turn the right side out and press, top stitch around the edge. Sew a button the centre of each scallop. Step 4 - Fold the pink fabric in half wrong sides together and press. Top stitch along the fold. Step 5 - Cut two 12 ½” squares of poppy fabric. Place the scallop fabric face down over the right side of one piece, lining up the raw edges, pin. Step 6 - Place the pink fabric over the opposite side and again, pin. Step 7 - Sew a few lines of tacking stitch to secure the layers, then sew straight along one side. Take out the pins. Place the remaining square of poppy fabric face down over the top, sew all the way around leaving a turning gap over the side you’ve already sewn. Snip off the corners. Step 8 - Turn the right side out, sew the opening closed. Turn through again insert your cushion pad, you’re finished! Add a little bow to decorate if you wish! Made by Debbie Shore for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #debbieshore #cushion #beginner #home #acottagegarden #freesewingtutorial

You will need: Approx 1m fabric Approx 20 plain fabric matching thread matching bias binding tape (for ties) snap fastenings (optional) pins tape measure tracing papers (I use baking paper) Step 1 Measure and cut out of tracing papers the pattern below, you can draw this straight onto the fabric if you prefer, remembering to place on the fold. Step 2 Place on fold as picture below. I used the armhole for the pocket, which was cut out later. Step 3 Bind the armhole edges by unfolding 1 side of the bias binding and placing raw edges together, stitch along the fold line. Step 4 Press to the wrong side and stitch along the folded bias binding edge. Step 5 On all the other raw edges press 5mm to the wrong side, then another 1cm. Step 6 To mitre the corners on the bottom of the apron fold on the corner, then fold in the hems along the creases. Step 7 Machine stitch all around the hems. I also like to ladder stitch the mitred corner closed. Step 8 Attach the straps at the waist edge, I cut 2 strips of 24” and for added strength sew with a box and a cross. If using a snap fastener only stitch neck strap to one side. Step 9 Attach the snap fastening about 2 inches from the free end of the neck strap, and the other on the top edge of the apron. Step 10 To make the pocket sew the top edge of the pocket along the straight edge of the plain fabric, leave a small gap for turning. If you want to embroider or applique on the pocket do this before constructing the pocket. Step 11 Press seam allowance in one direction. Step 12 With right sides together stitch around the curved edge and trim using pinking shears or trim and clip the curved edge. Step 13 Turn right sides out and press thoroughly. Topstitch close to the straight edge, this will close the turning gap. Step 14 Position pocket on apron, I placed it 2” down from ties and central from left to right. Stitch in place, use a reverse stitch at each end of the pocket to reinforce. Press well to give a nice crisp professional finish 3 aprons made for my friends nieces, Amber, Hazel and Willow, who love to bake with their grandpa. Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #kids #dressmaking #apron #frozen #freesewingtutorial

This is a really simple way to make a quick skirt for kids. It honestly took me less than 10 minutes! I followed a tutorial on YouTube by The Crafty Gemini called How to Make a Simple Girls Skirt so have a look at that for her tutorial. It's really well explained and easy to follow. All you need is a piece of fabric measuring double the width of the child's waist measurement and the length you'd like the skirt to be. Add double + 1/2 the length of the elastic you want to use to length and that's the size of fabric you need. (this is slightly different to the video instructions as to make it even quicker.) My elastic is 1" so I will add 2.5" to the length. The elastic should measure the same as your child's waist measurement. So for me, my daughters waist is approx. 22" so I measured a piece of fabric 44" wide and 10" long. Add 2.5" for the waist band so my final fabric piece was 44" x 12.5" and the elastic is 22" long. Sew the piece of fabric right sides together lengthways to form a tube. I went slightly off track from the video here after watching it as I was in a rush - I serged the hem (if you want to roll the hem then add this measurement to the fabric before cutting) A step I missed was serging the top of the fabric too, this will prevent the fabric from fraying. Whoops! Press the top edge of the skirt over by just less than 1/2" more than the size of the elastic to form the casing. So I pressed it over about 1.25". Sew along the raw edge leaving enough room for the elastic to feed through and leave a gap at the back. Feed the elastic through the casing you've just created, use a safety pin attached to one side to make this easier! Sew the ends of the elastic together using a zig zig stitch. sew the opening of the casing closed. And there you have it! So quick I even whipped up a scrunchy to match. Made by Kimberley Sews, visit her blog What Kimberley Makes for more projects!