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I’ve been asked to make a travel neck sleeping pillow from the beautiful Cornelia range. It’s probably a good job I am making this as I have a habit of falling asleep in the car. My husband jokes that we can’t go further than 10 minutes before I am asleep. This will make it much more comfortable. As always start by gathering your supplies: Fabric: Cornelia White Template Cutting mat Rotary cutter or scissors Marking device Sewing machine and thread Toy stuffing The first thing is to make your template. The one I have created it is based on an inflatable travel pillow, but I have altered it a little to make the back thicker and can increase the length of the sides. Once you are happy with your template you can use this to make your pillow. I wanted to make this a patch work pillow, so I have made squares that are 4”x4” using the rotary cutter so the edges are sharp. This allows for a seam allowance of ¼”. You should end up with a pile of squares: You can now piece together your patchwork. Make sure that when it is all laid out it covers the whole of your template and overlaps all the edges. If it doesn’t overlap the edges you will have no allowance when sewing the front and back together. Now you have decided on your pattern it is time to start sewing. Sew two squares together, right sides facing, at a time with ¼” seam allowance and gradually build your piece up. I found it worked best to make 5 rows with 5 squares per row. Make each row sewing 5 squares together with a ¼ inch seam allowance. Once a row has been completed, press the seam flat. With 5 rows complete you can then sew one row to another in the same way you have been sewing squares together. Line up your seams, use pins or clips to hold in place and sew with a ¼ inch seam allowance. Once complete, press your seams flat. You will need to repeat this process twice in total, so you have two sides for your neck pillow. Place the two pieces so the right sides are facing each other and ensure it fits the template. Now you can draw round your template and cut out your pieces, so you end up with this (I’ve used clips to hold the two pieces together so I could cut it out as one unit but you may be more comfortable cutting it out as two separate pieces and then clipping it right sides together): Now it is cut out, you can sew it together. Ensure you leave a gap to be able to turn it the right way around and stuff it. I left a gap at the top slightly bigger than one square in length. Once the edges have been sewn turn your piece, so it is the right way around. Now it is time to get stuffing. You will want it fairly firm to be able to give good support so don’t be scared of packing the stuffing in; you can always check as you go along whether it is right for you or not. Once you have it how you desire, you can sew the opening closed. This can either be done by top stitching on your machine or hand stitched. With the top now closed, you have yourself a neck cushion ready for any long (or short) journeys. Provided no one else in the family tries to steal it from you!! This blog post was made by Helen Bowes for the Craft Cotton Company 2020. To see more from Helen make sure you follow her on Facebook and Instagram!

These reusable cloths are the simplest reusable project and great for scrap busting. It isn’t until you start looking at the things around you that you realise how much of the things, we use daily, are made of plastic. It was actually the packaging of the sponges that made me question an alternative. I hadn’t even considered that the sponges themselves were made of plastic. I would wash them, but they would always fall apart after only one or two washes. It inspired me to look into alternatives and part of that was creating these cloths... click here for the full tutorial.

After covering a child's chair with the centre part of the new Peter Rabbit panel, I had the rest of the panel to play with still. Along with the other fabrics in the range and the new nursery basics in grey from The Craft Cotton Company, I got planning. There were 6 characters left but the reason I kept this one back for myself was that I accidently cut into Flopsy Bunny, so I have just used the remaining five to make a quilt which worked out perfectly anyway ... click here for the full tutorial.

Materials Used -1 Pack of Craf-Tex Heavy weight Stiffener -Half Metre of Plain Dyed Contrasting Fabric -Heavy Weight Iron on Interfacing -Ric Rac & Decorative Buttons -1 Set of Sea Life Fat Quarters -Co-Ordinating Threads External Bag Measurements Front & Rear Sections Cut 1 Front and 1 Rear in chosen fabrics External Pockets: cut 2 Internal Pockets: cut 2 Sew the sections together, but leave a gap big enough to tuck the bottom of the external pocket in to the front of the bag. (Yellow arrow - See photograph) Insert pocket into gap left and sew to secure. Press all seams open on front & back bag sections. (2cm will be lost when front sections are joined due to 0.5cm Seam Allowance and 1cm for the Back) A - Create a template for the beach hut shape and copy it onto a piece of Fusible web, iron it onto your chosen fabric. B - Now add it to the R/S of your external pocket. You can then sew around the beach hut to add detail. C - R/S to R/S together put the outside pocket together with the lining and sew round, but leave a 2” gap at the middle bottom. Snip the corners then turn out carefully pressing out the corners, iron flat. D - Top stitch down the two sides of the pocket. E - Cut out the backing stiffener to the shape of the bag and pin to the front and back sections. On the front section, use a different quilted pattern to the two lower sections to add texture and interest. Ric Rac and contrasting buttons were hand sewn on for decoration after. Back Lining: 1 - Sew the 2 sections together A & B (on front and back pieces) using a 0.5cm seam allowance, RS together then iron the seam down flat. 2 - Make the pocket by sewing R/S together sew round leaving a 2” hole at the bottom. Turn inside out press out corners and iron flat. 3 - Pin the pocket to the back lining piece and attach by top stitching Left, Right and Bottom sections. **Repeat for Front Lining without adding the pocket** 4 - Place lining pieces R/S to R/S.Sew down the two sides and bottom leaving a 5” opening either in the side or bottom. 5 - Repeat for external bag sections but no need to leave a gap. Turn right side out. Sewing The Bag Strap Cut two strips of fabric that measure 120cm x 10cm Fuse a heavyweight Interfacing to both. R/S together sew down each side (0.5cm seam allowance) Turn right way out and iron flat. Attaching the Lining and Exterior With the exterior bag section R/S out, and the lining W/S out (pocket to the back) insert the exterior inside the lining. Put the strap in place *yellow arrow* between the lining and the exterior, secure with pins all around. Sew. Turn out carefully through the gap left in the lining. Finger press around the top then pin. & Top Stitch. Last of all…Sew the gap in the lining up and enjoy your bag! Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #seaside #bag #applique #freesewingtutorial #accessories

Fat quarters are great for making yourself cute accessories, and this mini bag is perfect for carrying the essentials! It will fit your phone, purse and keys or it is the right size for a vintage camera! You Will Need: Essential Trend Fat Quarters in Grey and Turquoise Medium-weigh Fusible Interfacing Two Metal D-Rings 29cm (approx) Zip Use a 5mm Seam Allowance throughout. How to Make: Begin by pre-washing and ironing your fabrics. Using a pattern master or ruler, cutting mat and rotary cutter, cut your strips for the chevron pattern. Cut eight 3cm wide strips from four of the different fat quarter fabrics. Sew the strips together using a 5mm seam allowance. Cut the sewn piece in half so that you have tough rough squares. Cut each square in half at a 45 degree angle. Sew together to create the chevron design. Use a 5mm seam allowance. Line up the centre of the chevron design on the cutting mat grid and trim to 17 x 10.5cm. Cut the remaining bag fabrics from other fat quarter fabrics. You will need: Two pieces 3.2 x 5.5cm for the side tabs One piece 17 x 10.5cm for the back panel Two pieces 2.5 x 29cm for the zip panels One piece 5.3 x 26cm for the base panel Two pieces 17 x 10.5cm for the lining front and back panels Two pieces 2.5 x 29cm for the lining zip panels One piece 5.3 x 26cm for the lining base panel One piece 17 x 9cm for the inner pocket 9. Cut out the interfacing. You will need: Two pieces 17 x 10.5cm One piece 5.3 x 26cm 10. Interface your outer pieces. 11. Next, prepare your zip panel. Trim the zip to the required length by measuring 29cm from the opening end. Sew each fabric strip to the sides of the zip and press. Make the side tabs for the D-Rings by folding each strip in half lengthwise with the right sides and stitch along the long edge. Turn the right side out and place through the D-Ring. Place the raw edges to either end of the zip panel and top stitch across. 12. Sew the zip panel to either end of the base panel to create a loop and press the seams. 13. Next it’s time to assemble to outer bag. Centre the zip panel on top of the chevron front panel, right sides together and pin. Clip small slits into the zip and base panels so that it will wrap around the corner of the front panel. 14. Open the zip at least halfway and pin the zip and base panels to the back panel as before. Stitch and then clip the corners. 15. Next make the bag lining. Make the inner pocket by folding under one long edge by 5mm and press, then fold under again by 5mm, press again and topstitch. Tack to the prepared back panel. 16. Take the zip panel lining strips and prepare by folding a 5mm double hem along one edge (as you did for the inner pocket) topstitch to finish. Pin the strips to the base panel, leaving a gap in the middle of each and stitch. 17. To complete the lining, repeat how you put together the outer bag. 18. Create the bag strap by cutting two 50 x 6cm strips and two 10 x 6cm strips out of some of the remaining fat quarter fabrics and out of the interfacing. Pin and stitch the two 50cm strips together to create a 100cm strip, next pin and stitch the two 10cm strips to either end. Fold in half lengthwise and stitch. Turn the strap through and stop stitch both the folded and they stitched edges. Press well. 19. Finally loop the strap through each D-Ring, fold the strap over twice so that the raw edge is hidden and top stitch. Your chevron bag is now ready to wear! Tutorial by Katherine Smith for the Craft Cotton Co 2018 Visit Katherine's website www.wonderfully-creative.com Follow her on Instagram here #camera #bag #fatquarters #fatquarter #chevron #freesewingtutorials #accessories

Make a handy shopper tote bag using just three fat quarters and learn how to stitch French seams as you go! Step 1 Cut two of the fat quarters into pieces for the bag front and back panels -floral design 8½ “x19” -spot design 8 ½ “x19” Cut two pieces 4”x20” from the pink leaf fat quarter Step 2 Sew the front panel top and bottom pieces together using a French seam (pay attention to fabric layout as this is a directional print) - pin wrong sides together, stitch 1/8” seam along long edge then press - pin right sides together, stitch 3/8” seam along long edge then press - repeat this with the back panel pieces Step 3 Sew the front and back panel pieces together using a French seam - pin wrong sides together, stitch 1/8” seam along edge then press - pin right sides together, stitch 3/8” seam along edge then press Step 4: Turn over a ½ “fold along top edges, then fold this over again and press in place - do not stitch this in place yet Step 5 Make bag handles - Fold each pink leaf fabric strip in half lengthways and press - Fold each long outer edge into the centre and press - Fold back in half again and press in place - Topstitch along each edge then down the centre of the strip Step 6: Lay out the bag and measure and mark 5½“ in from each top edge - tuck the handle under the top fold and pin in place at the lines marked - fold handle back on itself and re-pin - stitch along both edges of the fold to secure the fold, attach the handles and encase the raw edges of the handles within the seam Step 7 Sew the side seams using a French seam - pin wrong sides together, stitch 1/8” seam along long edge then press - pin right sides together, stitch 3/8” seam along long edge then press Step 8 Give the bag a good press then it is ready to use! You could also make this bag with a single piece of fabric for the front/back piece: this design was chosen to make the most of the directional fabric design on the main fat quarter. Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Co 2018 #bag #fatquarter #fatquarterproject #totebag #mexicano #freesewingtutorial #accessories

Make a messenger bag with some Star Wars Millennium Falcon fabric. You will need: ‐ 2m main fabric (if you don’t mind a join in your strap you will get away with 1.5m) ‐ 1m lining fabric ‐ 2pks Bosal single sided fusible foam ‐ Approx. 30cm iron on interfacing ‐ 2m Bosal In-R-Form shoulder strapping ‐ 1 x 12” zip ‐ 1 x 2” buckle ‐ matching thread ‐ plain large sheet paper - Sewing Machine (inc zipper foot & walking foot (optional) ‐ Iron BAG DIMENSIONS: approximately 4″ x 11.5″ x 14″, (10 cm x 29.5 cm x 35.5 cm) Rough Sketch (including a couple of notes) Add seam allowances to all pattern pieces. CUTTING Bag Body – 1 x fabric, 1 fusible foam Shoulder Strap – 1 x fabric, 1 x Bosal In-R-Form shoulder strapping (1” shorter than fabric (no seam allowance) Strap Tab – 1 x fabric, 1 x Bosal In-R-Form shoulder strapping (1” shorter than fabric (no seam allowance) Flap – 1 x fabric, 1 x interfacing Flap Facing – 1 x fabric, 1 x fusible foam Zipper Facing – 1 x fabric, 1 x interfacing Bag Lining – 2 x lining fabric Patch Pocket – 1 x lining fabric Pocket Bag – 2 x lining fabric ASSEMBLY Step 1 Iron fusible interfacing and fusible foam onto back (wrong side) of bag pieces following manufacturer’s directions, encase shoulder strapping and long raw edges of strapping pieces, steam iron to allow glue to adhere. Step 2 Make up bag straps – top stitch along each long edge on both strap pieces, approximately 6mm in, set to one side (you may find this easier with a walking foot). Step 3 Prepare bag lining. On the patch pocket, turn under the top edge 6mm and press. Turn top edge once more: 15mm and stitch down. Turn and press seam allowance on remaining three sides. With one of the bag lining pieces FACE UP, centre the patch pocket and edge-stitch along pocket sides and bottom. With right sides together, centre-align and match flap facing to top of body lining piece. With right side together, align and match remaining bag lining piece to this lining section. Stitch side seams and press open. Stitch 50mm on each end of the bottom seam; then align the side seam to the bottom seam and sew across the seams to create a mitre. Set aside. Step 4 Prepare flap pocket. Begin by aligning the zipper facing with the top of the flap, right sides together. Stitch an outline of the pocket opening equal to the length of the zipper teeth x the zipper’s width. Carefully clip diagonally at the corners of the stitching and turn the zipper facing FACE UP. Press seam flat. Using a zipper foot with the flap piece FACE UP, align and centre the zipper FACE UP in the indentation. Edge-stitch around pocket opening to secure the zipper. With right sides together, sew one pocket bag piece to the bottom edge of the zipper facing. Flip the lining downward and topstitch along the seam. Using a zipper foot with flap piece FACE DOWN, align and match remaining pocket bag piece to top of zipper. Stitch zipper to lining; then stitch sides of pocket bag. Trim the excess from the lining on the bottom of the pocket bag and sew bottom seam. Set aside. Step 5 Construct the body of the bag. Using a walking foot (if available) with right sides together, fold the bag body together (or stitch bottom seam if using 2 body pieces due to nap of fabric) then match up the side seams. Sew side seam and press open. Mitre the bottom corners by aligning the side seam in the centre of the bottom edge and stitch across the seam. Turn bag right side out. Using a zipper foot with right sides together, align and match top of body to flap. Stitch across top edge, ensuring the catch the zipper tape in the seaming. On the right side, topside along the zippered seam. Step 6 Assemble the bag. Using a walking foot with right sides together, insert bag body into bag lining. Align and match up outer edges of flap and flap facing. Line up the raw edges of the bag opening. Stitch around the opening and the flap. Turn bag RIGHT SIDE OUT through opening in bottom of lining. Press the perimeter of the flap and the opening edge flat. Top-stitch around flap and opening. Slipstitch opening in lining closed. Step 7 Complete the bag. Align the square end of the straps to each side of the messenger bag. Place each approximately 10 cm from the top edge of the bag opening and sew an X-stitch through all layers. Hook the shoulder strap into the buckle slider and adjust the desired length. Your bag is now complete! Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #messengerbag #bag #sewing #freesewingtutorial #starwars #sewingforboys #accessories

This bag was made with one set of Japanese Floral FQ by Craft Cotton Co. I had enough fabric to make 2 medium sized bags! Cut 32 Squares of the same size, I used 5’’ for a medium size bag. 16 for The outer 16 for the lining. The bigger the squares, the larger your bag will be! Arrange them as below The yellow arrows point out where the top of the bag will be. For the outer bag R/S together begin to match up the letters: A to A B to B C to C etc, pin to secure. It will appear to be a puzzle and you may have some head scratching moments but eventually you will see it forming into the bag shape. *Repeat for the lining *But leave a gap in one of the joins to turn out! To create the straps I used a fabric from the FQ pack. Cut 2 strips 2 ½” (by length required, Hand/Shoulder) Fold in ¼” down each long side W/S together and iron flat, then fold in half R/S out and top stitch all the way round. With the outer bag R/S out place it inside the lining R/S to R/S. Position the straps each side as above. (it will need to be tucked within the two parts of the bag not hanging out like the diagram this is just to show its one piece going down then back up) Sew around the top of the bag encasing the straps firmly. Turn out via the gap you left. Sew up the gap. Follow Nicola on Instagram at @bobbincottagebodkin Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #japanese #fatquarters #bag #freesewingtutorial #tote #accessories

This tartan tote is perfect for Winter. What you need 1 Set of Brushed Tartan FQ’s by The Craft Cotton Company Calico or Heavy Weight backing fabric ½ Metre of Navy Blue Plain Dyed Cotton by The Craft Cotton Co Buttons Step 1 I cut my lining Fabric 16 ½” x 18” and made up the same measurements from the Tartan and cotton. Step 2 Mark out a 3” Square on the bottom of the 2 outer fabric pieces & lining fabrics. Cut out. Step 3 Make a Dog Template (I’m not too good at drawing) J Draw round it onto some fusible interfacing then iron it onto the reverse of Navy Cotton Fabric. Step 4 Pin it into place, and slowly stitch round. Step 5 Using 12” x 4” strips of the Navy cotton, fold in either side of strip and iron flat, then fold in so the two edges meet to make a neat edge, iron & Sew all around. Step 6 To create the base box section, put the two lining pieces R/S together & sew down both sides. As shown in the picture below also sew the bottom but leave a 3-4” gap in the centre. Repeat for the Tartan & Cotton outer fabric, but also sew across the whole of the bottom section. Step 7 I find it difficult to explain making up the box base, but it’s very easy in theory. Pull the two sides out where you made the cuts and it should all fall into place (as below) Where the pins are you need to sew across then pin & repeat for the top part shown in the picture. Do the same for the outer bag. Step 8 Now place the outer bag right side out, inside the lining which is wrong side out. Find the centre of the back and front and mark it, then mark 2” each side of the centre, this will be the position of the handles. Step 9 Now sandwich the handles between the lining and outer fabric. Step 10 Pin to secure, then sew all around the top a couple of times so as to strengthen the handles. Step 11 Gently pull the right side out from the gap you left in the lining, sew up the gap. Finger press the top of the bag down then topstitch round to neaten. I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. It’s a fun make to do, especially as autumn and winter approach the Brushed Tartan is warm and cheerful, perfect for a Gift or why not keep it yourself? Please share your makes with me on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Co 2018 #beachbag #bags #tartan #accessories #freesewingtutorial

These bags are a lovely way to coordinate with your mini-me, or just keep them both for yourself! Wear the large one in the day, and use your mini at night. Fabric Requirements: Miniature Tote 1 Fat Quarter for outer 1 fat quarter for lining and handle 1 fat quarter fusible fleece/batting Large Tote 2 fat quarters for outer 2 fat quarters for lining 1 fat quarter for handles 1 fusible fleece/batting - 16” x 40” Cutting Instructions: Miniature tote: Cut 2 - 8” x 10” for bag outer, lining and fusible fleece Cut 2 - 3” x 9” for bag handles Large Tote: Cut 2 - 16” x 20” for bag outer, lining and fusible fleece Cut 2 - 5” x 12” for bag handles Instructions: Step 1 Begin by fusing your fleece to both outer pieces of your bag Step 2 To make the handles, fold your fabric in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and iron a crease in place. Next open the fabric back out and fold the raw edges in to meet the centre crease line and iron in place. Then refold on the centre crease line to enclose both raw edges inside. Top stitch on both edges to finish. Repeat with your second handle. Step 3 For the miniature tote bag measure in 4” from each side and baste your handles into place. For the large tote bag, measure in 8.5” from each side and baste your handles into place. Step 4 Lay both outer bag panels on top of each other right sides together and stitch around using 3/8” seam allowances leaving the top portion of the bag open. Step 5 Measure a square in each bottom corner 1” from the sew lines and cut the squares out. Step 6 Bring the edges together so both seam match in the centre and sew with 3/8” seam allowances. Repeat with the lining fabric but leaving a 3” gap at the bottom so you can turn the bag through later on. Step 7 Place the bag outer inside the bag lining so right sides are together and pin around the top taking care to match the seams. Sew with 3/8” seam allowances all the way around. Step 8 To finish, topstitch around the edge of your bag and hand stitch the lining closed using a ladder stitch. Your bags are now complete! Follow Joanne on Instagram @unicornharts Made by Joanne Hart for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #totebag #bags #fatquarters #freesewingtutorial #accessories

The new Peter Pan fabric is perfect for creating a cosy cushion! With useful pockets for their favourite book, this reading pillow is a great addition to any child's bedroom. You Will Need: 2 Metre Peter Pan Cotton 1 Bright Yellow Fat Quarter 1 Bright Blue Fat Quarter 50cm x 50cm Cushion Insert Rotary Cutter, Cutting Mat and Pattern Master Use a 1cm Seam Allowance throughout. How to Make: Step 1 Begin by pre-washing and ironing your fabrics. Using a pattern master or ruler, cutting mat and rotary cutter, cut the following from your fabric: 1 x 51cm x 51cm square from the Peter Pan fabric 1 x 51cm x 35cm piece from the Peter Pan fabric 1 x 51cm x 25cm piece from the Peter Pan fabric 1 x 51cm x 26cm piece from the Peter Pan fabric 1 x 51cm x 32cm piece from the bright blue fabric 2 x 51cm x 6cm pieces from the bright yellow fabric Step 2 Pin one of the yellow pieces to the top of the blue piece, stitch and press. Step 3 Press down 1cm and fold over the top. Press again and top stitch 1.5cm from the edge. Step 4 Repeat for the xxcm x xxcm peter pan piece. Step 5 Line up and pin the two pieces with the yellow trim to the front 51cm x 51cm front piece. Stay stitch these in place. Step 6 Right sides together, pin the two Peter Pan back pieces to the front piece and stitch using a 1cm seam allowance. Step 7 Finally insert the cushion. Your reading book cushion is now complete! Tutorial by Katherine Smith for the Craft Cotton Co 2018 Visit Katherine's website www.wonderfully-creative.com Follow her on Instagram here #pillow #reading #kids #children #freesewingtutorial #freesewingtutorials #peterpan

Make this adorable young girl’s pinafore dress, with a front panel which can be easily decorated with embroidery or embellishments to make it more personal. Time it takes to make: 5-6 Hours Skill level : Beginner/Intermediate You will need: 1Mtr (1 ⅛th yds) of fabric 65cms (¾yd) of 25mm (1”) wide elastic 25cms (¼yd) of fusible interfacing Scissors Matching thread Pins, Safety pin or Bodkins Sewing machine Step-by-step instructions: All seams are 5/8” or 1.5cms unless otherwise stated. Before you start your project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. It is always a good idea to wash your fabric before you begin work to eliminate any possibility of shrinkage at a later date. Iron your fabric with a suitable temperature to ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make. 1. Fold your fabric right sides together, you can either make a pattern out of greaseproof paper or just draw on the fabric with either tailors chalk or an air erasable pen. Cut out all the pieces as measures and quantities below. 2. With the right sides together fold the bib band in half, top to bottom. Tack the raw edges together. Sandwich the band between the two bib pieces. Stitch the upper edge in a 3/8” (1cm)seam. Trim/layer the seam. Turn the top (lining) to the inside, press. Tack the raw edges together. 3. Take the straps and mark the position of the buttonholes 2” (5cms) from the right side. On two of the straps apply a piece of fusible interfacing to the wrong side to cover the buttonhole marking. With right sides together, pin and tack one strap to the left of the bib, making sure the interfacing is at the free end. Sew 3/8” (1cm)seam. Reinforce at the top and bottom by back tacking. Press seam towards the strap. 4. With right sides together, pin and tack the strap facing (no interfacing), to the strap. Starting at the lower edge, stitch 3/8”(1cm) seam all the way to the top of the bib, backstitch to reinforce the seam. Trim and layer the seam and corners. 5. Turn the strap right side out, roll the edges between your fingers to get a sharp edge, press. Press under 3/8” (1cm) on the open raw edge of the facing. Slip-stitch the pressed edge of facing over the seam. Complete the remaining strap to the right side of the bib in the same way. Tack across lower edge of the straps. 6. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front waistband. 7.Find the centre of the bib at the lower edge and centre of both waistbands, pin to mark this point. Sandwich the bib between the waistband and waistband facing, matching the centres marked with the pin (right side of the waistband to the right side of the bib, then lay the right side of the facing on top). 8. Stitch a 3/8” (1cm) seam. Trim the seam in layers. Press the seam towards the facing. 9. On the back casing with tailors tacks or air erasable pens mark 7/8” (2.2cms) from the top and 5/8” (1.5cms) from side edge and 15/8” (4.1cms) from the top and 5/8”(1.5cms) from side edge. 10. With right sides together pin and tack front waistband and facing to back casing at the side seams. Stitch leaving a gap between the dots in the casing. Back tack at the dots to reinforce the seam. Press the seam open. 11. With right sides together stitch the front of the skirt to the back at the side seams, neaten the seam by either a zig-zag stitch, over-edge stitch or the use of an overlocker if you have one. Press the seams to the back. Gather the upper edge of the skirt by sewing on the right side with the longest stitch length, ¼” inside the seam allowance and ¼” outside 12. With right sides together, place the top (bib, waistband and casing) over the skirt, pin skirt to the front waistband and back casing, matching centres and side seams. Pull up the gathering stitches using the bobbin thread to fit. 13. Pin the skirt in place, tack if required, stitch. Stitch again inside the seam allowance to reinforce the seam. Trim. Press the bib out, pressing the seam towards the bib. 14. Press under 5/8” (1.5cms) on lower free edge of waistband facing and back casing. Trim to ¼” (6mm) 15. Turn the waistband and back casing to the inside along the foldline (middle). Press. Pin the pressed long edge of the waistband facing and back casing over seam. Slip stitch in place. 16. Cut the elastic 10¼” (26cms). Insert the elastic into the back casing through the opening in the side using either a safety pin or bodkin. Secure the elastic at one end by stitching through the side seam. Try on for size and comfort. Secure the elastic at the other end. Tuck the ends of the elastic under the front waistband, slip-stitch the opening closed. 17. Cross the straps at the back, try on the dress for size and mark the position for the buttons on the inside of the dress and buttonholes on the straps. When happy with the fit, make the buttonholes in the backend of the straps and sew buttons to the back casing. 18. Press up the hem to the required length. Press under ¼” (6mm) on the raw edge. Stitch close to the inner pressed edge. Your dress is now finished. 19. I have used the fabulous Peter Pan fabric from Craft Cotton Co. but if you are using a plain fabric why not have a go at some applique or machine embroidery with the bib panel. Happy Sewing Made by Bernadette Wainwright for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 Find her on Instagram @bernie_sew_whats_new #children #disney #dressmaking #dress #pinafore #childrenswear