Search Results

A quick simple skirt sewing tutorial from Sarah's Sewing Room. Make a skirt with 3 seams in about 15 mins with a standard sewing machine - who says dressmaking can't be easy? Fabric by Craft Cotton Company #video #skirt #freesewingtutorials #sarahpayne #dressmaking

The perfect bag for your dog’s treats. My dog gets a treat every night before she goes to bed, and I’m always hunting in the bottom of the box to get one, so I’ve written this tutorial to show you how to make a small drawstring bag perfect for those treats, and you can now recycle those unsightly boxes 😉 What you will need: Craft Cotton paw pals fabric 1m of thin cream cord, and a long needle Dog treats Rotary cutter, cutting mat and ruler Start by cutting all your fabric pieces: 2x pieces of the yellow fabric (lining) 10.5” x 6.5” 2x pieces of the Charcoal with dog’s fabric (casing) 7” x 1¼” 2x pieces of the Charcoal with dog’s fabric (base) 2.5” x 6.5” 2 x pieces of the cream with dog’s fabric (outer) 8.5” x 6.5” Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew with right sides together the cream and charcoal fabrics (making sure fabric is sitting correct way round) Create the casing, by folding over ¼” of the raw edges along each long side of the two charcoal strips and press, then fold and press ¼” of each end over and glue to hold in place. Sew your casing in place, by pinning 1¼” from the top of the outer pieces of fabric, then carefully sew 1/8” from the edge, do not sew the ends. Take your two outer pieces of fabric and with right sides together sew using ¼” seam allowance, along one side, across the bottom and back up the other side. Repeat this process with the two lining pieces, but leave a 2” gap along the bottom. To make the base, pull the bottom corners out, press and measure 2” from the corner and sew across. Cut the excess fabric off leaving ¼” seam. Place the lining inside the outer fabric with right sides together, and pin across the top, matching up the seams. Pull the bag through the gap of the lining, and sew the hole up, press the bag. Top stitch along the top Cut your cord in two, thread it through one casing then through the other, repeat this with the second piece of cord, but start at the opposite end, tie knots on the end and trim away any excess, pull the cords to close the bag. Your bag is ready for the treats… Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2017 Follow Michelle Roberts on Instagram @creativeblonde66 for the full collection of tutorials made from the Craft Cotton Paw Pals fat quarter bundle. Visit her blog www.creativeblondeblog.wordpress.com #pawpals #dog #bag #freesewingtutorials #home #accessories

Have you got an old dog bed, or a dog bed that doesn’t fit with the décor in your lounge? If you’re new to sewing, here is the perfect patchwork project. Here is what you will need: Paw pals fat quarter bundle from craftcotton A dog bed Rotary cutter Sewing machine Patchwork ruler Pins Iron Start by preparing all your patchwork pieces… • 16 (5.5” x 3.5”) in the white background dog print. • 12 (5.5” x 3.5”) in the dark green background with bones • 6 (5.5” x 3.5”) in the dark grey background dog print • 8 (3.5” x 3.5“) in the yellow fabric • 6 (3.5” x 3.5“) in the pale blue background fabric • 6 (3.5” x 2”) in the yellow fabric • 14 (3.5” x 2”) in the pale blue background fabric Lay your fabrics out in the correct order, and start by sewing in horizontal rows, pin and sew with right sides together, using the ¼” seam allowance, finger press your seams open as the fabrics pieces are quite small, and ironing them may distort their shapes. Once all your rows are completed, sew them in order starting at the bottom and working your way to the top, making sure your seams fold in opposite directions to avoid too much bulk on the reverse. Now press all your seams and trim your patchwork patch to 33” x 21” (note my dog bed that I’m upcycling is 41” x 29”) Fold under half an inch of the fabric all the way round, press and pin in the center of the dog bed, making sure to only pin to the top layer. Now carefully sew ¼” all the way round, making sure to only sew through the top layer of the dog bed. Now go back and sew another row of stitches 1/8” from the edge. This size dog bed is a perfect fit for a single duvet folded into four, and your dog will love it. Perfect with the dog bone toy: This matching patchwork dog bed tutorial was designed and created by creative blonde (michelle) for The Craft Cotton Co. Happy crafting! #dogbed #sewing #fatquarter #freesewingtutorials #home

#video

It's so cute #MakeItToday Here’s what you’ll need: Paw pals fat quarter bundle from craft cotton Toy stuffing Bone template 1” aida band – 8” in length Fray check Fabric glue Fabric marker pen Embroidery threads in grey, brown or yellow. Step 1 - Take your two pieces of paw pals fabrics 18” x 6” and fold them in half, right sides together, creating a piece that’s now 9” x 6”. Step 2 - Using a 2.5 x 3” oval, and over lapping them slightly, create the end of the dog bone, then add the middle part by measuring a 2 ¾” wide by 3.5” length, draw this out on paper/card and cut out. Draw around your template on the fold, with your fabric marker, and cut out, adding a ¼” seam allowance all the way round. Step 3 - Take some sharp scissors and make small snips around all the curved edges. Step 4 - Once all your pieces are prepared, begin cross stitching your dog’s name on the aida band, don’t forget the cute paw prints either side 😊 Easiest way to do this is with some graph paper first… Step 5 - Using white thread, Sew your aida in place using a zig zag stitch all the way round, I used a small dab of glue to hold this is place while I sewed around it. I also used fray check on the ends and tucked each end under. Step 6 - Sew your two dog bones, right side together, leaving a 2-3” gap along one of the straight edges. Turn right way out, press and stuff. Using a ladder stitch sew up the gap. And your toy is ready to be played with… If you have purchased the whole fat quarter bundle from craft cotton, follow me on facebook and Instagram to see my next tutorial… matching dog blanket using these cute fabrics… And a cute drawstring bag to carry all your clean poo bags, or treats when out walking… Thank for reading, be sure to tag me in your creations. Happy crafting x creativeblonde x Made by Michelle Roberts for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 visit her blog https://creativeblondeblog.wordpress.com/ #pawpals #do #freesewingtutorials #home

This Nautical Tidy Tub is the perfect chic way to keep a tidy home. Fill it with toys or craft bits and bobs. Materials required: 1 pack of Nautical Rose Fat Quarters 1 extra fat quarter of your choice for the large squares 1/2m Plain cotton fabric for the lining 1 packet of single side fusible Bosal In-R-Foam wadding available from Crafty Sew&So 1 fat quarter of Denim, canvas or another heavyweight fabric for the base Prym 14mm metal eyelets with washers available from www.craftysewandso.com _cm rope, ribbon or other trim for handles 1m bias binding Coordinating thread Sewing machine Cutting guide: 5 x 4 5/8" squares (large square) 10 x 3 1/2" squares (small square) 8 x 3 1/2"wide by _ long strips in 4 coordinating fabrics (_ strips of each) 33cm x 65cm plain cotton fabric for lining 33cm x 65cm Bosal foam wadding A circular base with a diameter of 19.5cm All seam allowances for patchwork are ¼ inch or 7mm. Take care to stitch small seam allowances so all the pieces fit together neatly. We are using a patchwork design called flying geese to create an optional patchwork panel for the top of the basket. You can skip this step if you prefer a simple make and just make a panelled tub instead. Patchwork panel: Take a large square and place it right side up. With right sides together align one small square with the top left hand corner of the large square. Align another small square right sides together with the bottom right hand corner of the large square. Pin the small squares in place. Using an erasable pen draw a line diagonally from one corner to the other. Stitch 1/4 inch away from the marked line along one side then along the other. Cut along the marked line. Fold out the 2 smaller triangles away from the larger square and press the seam flat to one side. Place another small square over one of the joined panels and mark diagonally through the centre as before. Stitch either side of the marked line as before and cut through the central line Press the small triangle away from the large triangle to complete your flying geese module Place 2 modules with right sides together matching one point with one straight edge and join with a 1/4” seam. Press flat with the seam toward one side and add another until 9 of the modules are joined in a long strip. You will have a spare module which you can discard or use in other project. Making the tub: Place your lining fabric over the fusible side of the foam wadding and iron to adhere them together. The lining will be slightly bigger than the foam wadding to allow for slippage and the foam spreading as you sew. On the other side align your first strip right side up with the edge of the foam then place your second strip right side down over the fist strip. Stitch a ¼ inch from the edge of the 2 layered fabrics. Use a longer stitch length of around 3.5 to prevent puckering. Using a walking foot on your machine will also help with this and stop the layers of fabric slipping helping you to achieve nice even stitches through all the layers. Press the second strip flat away from the first strip Place a third strip over the second strip and join as before along the loose edge Continue until all the strips are attached to the foam. Trim the excess fabric to the size of the foam. If you have made the flying geese patchwork panel now is the time to attach it. Measure down 13cm from the top of the foam panel and mark with a drawn line. Place the patchwork panel right side down over underneath this line as shown in the photo below. Stitch the panel in place with a ¼ inch seam allowance. Flip the patchwork panel up and press flat. You can add quilting stitching at this point if you wish. Next with right sides together, join the foam panel to make a round tub – use a scant 1cm seam for this as a ¼ inch seam is hard to achieve on thick layers. Apply binding to cover the raw edges of the seam. Quilting clips are very handy when working with thick layers match up the bottom edge of the tub with the circular base. Clip in place a tack in place then stitch using the machine. This is fiddly so tacking is very helpful for this stage. Finish the raw edges with over-casting or a zig zag stitch. Now apply binding to the top edge of the tub – I find using a zig zag stitch to attach the binding easier and it creates a fun decorative finish, Insert the eyelets evenly approx. 10cm from the top of the tub following the instructions on the pack. And insert your handles securing with a knot on the inside TA-DA! Your tidy tub is complete! Made by Crafty Sew and So for the Craft Cotton Co. #bag #nautical #freesewingtutorials #home #accessories

#video

Hugo and Angus made their feature in the Craft Club magazine. Editor Alice made the duo a gorgeous coat and a comfy dog bed with just a pattern and some of our fabric from Create and Craft (and a little help from her mum!) Not only can you invest a little extra love into your four legged friend with these DIY dog projects, but you can also help save yourself a bit of money and create something truly unique. Some more craft ideas you can create for your pet pooch… For more, click here. #dog

What you will need: Sewing machine with matching threads 4 fat quarters (2 for the main apron 1 for the waist band and tie and 1 for the pockets – you could use scrap fabric for the pockets if you wanted) A small plate to use as a template. Paper or card to make the pocket template (I searched on Pinterest for a template or make your own). I have used a quarter inch sewing seam. Making the apron: Place two fat quarters with right sides together and take a round template (I used a saucer) and round off the two corners at the bottom of your apron. Sew three sides together, leaving the top open, then clip your round seams and turn the right way out and press. Next take a contrasting fat quarter for the waist band and ties and measure 3” strips for the length you need, I used 4 of the strips to make 84” in total. Sew these together to form a long strip, press open the seams. Press the strip in half, then press under each length side ¼”. Find the middle of the apron and pin the waist band strip to the apron. Sew up the seam making sure the ends are tucked and sew these up. Making the pockets: Take two templates (these could be pleated or patch pockets) and cut out 2 pockets and 2 inside pockets with 2 pocket bands, I used contrasting fat quarters for these. Place pocket and inside pocket pieces together and sew around all edges leaving a gap on the top edge of about 3 to 4 inches for turning. Clip your round seams and turn, press and sew the edge up. Take your pocket band, fold fabric length ways right side in and press. Sew three edges together, clip seams and press open. Press under a ¼” seam along the open edge. Take one pocket and pleat, I used just one pleat but you can use more if you prefer, just as long as it fits inside the pocket band. Fit the pocket inside the band, pin and sew together to form the whole pocket. Measure where you would like the pockets to sit on your apron, pin and sew the sides and bottom to the apron. You now have a lovely double sided apron! How to make the Oven Gloves What you will need: Sewing machine and matching thread 2 fat quarters of fabric Heat insulated wadding Ribbon for making loop to hang the gloves. Card or paper to make a glove template. Fabric erasable pen or pins. First make a template from either an old oven glove you have or draw around your hand making sure there is plenty of space around, you could also use Google to find a template to use. Take 1 fat quarter of fabric for the outer of the glove and either draw the glove template onto the fabric or pin the template x 4 and cut these out. Repeat x 4 for the inside fabric and for the insulated wadding. With your glove shaped fabric, pin the wadding to the wrong side of the outer glove and sew for all pieces. Take 2 outer pieces, right sides together and sew leaving the bottom open. Repeat for the lining but making sure you leave the long side with a 4” opening for turning. Turn the outer gloves to the right side out and press. Take a piece of ribbon, folding it in half; sew to the edge of the glove, making sure the ribbon is facing down the glove Then place the outer glove (right side out) inside a lining glove (right side in), matching the side seams together, pin the gloves, sew together. Turn the glove to the right side using the gap in the lining and press. Sew up the lining gap. Now you have two pretty oven gloves! Made by Sally Mitton for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 Visit her blog www.sallymitton.blogspot.co.uk #cupcakes #kitchen #gloves #apron #freesewingtutorials

#video

Create this fab Summer Fun Fat Quarter Skirt using some of our gorgeous polkadot fat quarters, available at Hobbycraft! Summer skirt tutorial here Made by Miss Libby Rose, visit her blog. #skirt #sew #fatquarter #freesewingtutorials #dressmaking

Bring back memories of those days by the sea with this lovely quilted cushion. What you will need: Craft Cotton Company supplies: Days by the sea fabrics Blue blender fabric Heritage wadding Other supplies: Ric-rac Directions for t: Step 1: Using your rotary cutter and ruler, cut your patterned fabric into pieces Yachts: 13” x 18.25” Fishes: 6.5” x 6.5” Anchors: 6.5” x 6.5” Shells: 6.5” x 6.5” Step 2: Sew the 6.5” blocks together then press each seam open and flat Step 3: Pin the yachts fabric panel to the triple patterned block along the long side, sew together then press seam open and flat Step 4: Cut the ric-rac into 2 pieces 7” long Pin the ric-rac across the short seams then stitch in place using your presser foot central marker position to help keep the stitches running along the centre of the ric-rac Step 5: Cut the ric-rac into a piece 19” long Pin the ric-rac down the long seam then stitch in place as before Step 6: Baste the wadding to the cushion front panel using either temporary fabric spray adhesive or tacking stitches Step 7: Quilt the cushion front using your chosen methods or as follows: Using the free-motion embroidery foot, embroider over selected motifs on the large printed panel to give additional quilted definition Step 8: On the top and bottom smaller panels, quilt a straight stitched square deign, following the edges of the block first then use the machine foot and needle position function to create the spaces between each line of quilting Step 9: On the small central panel, use the white stripes of the fabric design as guidelines for the quilting, remembering to stop/start at each side of the circular anchor prints to retain their clarity Step 10: Cut the blue blender fabric into 4 strips 3.5” wide Sew these to each side of the cushion front panel to create a border design Step 11: Cut two pieces of the blue blender fabric 24” x 16” for the envelop cushion back Along the long edge of each piece, fold over a double hem and stitch in place Step 12: Cut a piece of ric-rac 24” long Align this along the turned seam line on the front of one of the cushion back pieces. Use the presser foot as a guide to help keep stitches central Step 13: Position the envelope back pieces right sides facing up then position the cushion front on top with right sides facing together. Pin in place to secure, checking that the overlap of the envelope back is lying correctly. Stitch around all four sides, trim away excess at corners then turn right sides out. Push corners out using bamboo tool then press cushion front and back. Step 14: Stich ‘in the ditch’ where the cushion border (blue blender) meets the patterned fabrics. This will create an edged design to the cushion. Step 15: Press then insert cushion inner then the cushion is ready to enjoy Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Co 2017 #freesewingtutorials #cushion #home