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Project by Nicola Hills Create an amazing dressing up costume for halloween or just for fun with this superhero cape and mask. This can be personalised to suit your very own little superhero! This was made to fit a toddler. You will need: (For the Cape, Mask & Wings) Half a metre of Super Hero Fabric Half a meter of Black Fabric Stiffener, either firm Interfacing or Bosal Foam Lining Fabric for Mask Thin Elastic Bias Binding (optional) Heat’n’bond Felt Square Tools: Basic Sewing Kit Sewing Machine Paper & Pencil Iron Method: Mask I found a mask template on the internet, free to download, or you could design your own. Cut the lining fabric slightly bigger than the outer fabric for the mask. Place the outer and lining fabrics R/S together. Make a small pleat in the lining fabric between the eyes of the mask before pinning. Sew around the eyes. Cut vertical through the pleat you made in the lining fabric. Turn right side out through the eye, finger press to flatten out. Top stitch around the eye. *With the little excess fabric you left between the eyes in the lining, gather & stitch them together now. This had to be done to enable you to pull right sides out through the eyes. Cut off any extra.* Sandwich the stiffener between the lining and outer fabrics, from the eyes upwards. Place the template on top, pin to secure then sew round to create the mask shape. Cut out close to, but not through the top stitches. You can add some decorative top stitches. I then sewed some thin elastic to the sides (which has been popular for face masks). Your mask is complete! Method - Cape The cape was simply made from a rectangular piece apprx 20’’ x 30”. Sew a 1/4” seam around both sides & the bottom. Create a 1” top section to allow elastic to be threaded through. Method - Wings Draw a ‘batwing’ style template. Cut out 2 from the black fabric and 1 from Stiffener ( I found it easier to cut out on the fold) Sandwich the stiffener in between the R/S facing together fabrics and sew around. *leave a 3’’ gap at the top to turn out* Turn right sides out and press flat with an iron. I chose to bind the edges with red bios binding, it was a job for the patient, as it was hand sewn! (and I had to make two) but I felt it added impact and was worth the effort, however you may chose not to do this :) Last but not least every little super hero needs their initial to stand out so we know who they are, right? I drew the initial onto some Heat’n’bond then ironed onto the black fabric, cut it out and put it onto the bright green felt shape. I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, any questions please feel free to ask: @bobbincottagebodkin #craftcottonco We love to see your makes so do please share your Super Hero Costumes with us :) Nicola Hills x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Stephanie Marsh Get in the festive spooky mood with this Halloween bat bunting. You will need: 2 fat quarters 0.5m black cotton Heavy duty interfacing (I use double sided fusible) Black cord Black thread Instructions: 1. Find a bat template online and print it off. Transfer this onto some card. 2. Draw around your bat template onto the interfacing. Cut them out. 3. Pin them onto the wrong side of the 2 fat quarters. Cut them out, slightly larger than the interfacing. 4. Place the bats, wring side down, onto the wrong side of the black interfacing. Pin in place. 5. If you have used the double sided fusible interfacing steam press the allow glue to stick to fabric. If you haven't, use plenty of pins to hold them in place. Cut out. 6. Using a straight stick sew the layers together close to the raw edges. 7. Attach the bats to the cord at regular intervals but laying over the back of the bat and hold in place with a few straight stitches, back and forth over the existing sewing line. 8. Make a loop at either end of the cord for hanging. Your bat bunting is complete! To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh We would love to see your versions, remember to tag us and use the Hashtag #craftcottonco Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Co 2021

Project by Nicola Hills The Treat Bags are a fun and easy make for your ‘Trick and Treaters’ with a personalised touch. You will need: 1/2 metre of Textured Blender Spot Black Fabric 2 FQ from the Essential Trend Set 1/2 Metre of Orange Ric Rac Stiff Interfacing/Bosal Foam Iron on Appliqué Paper Ribbon for drawstring Tools: Basic Sewing Set Sewing Machine Method: Cut 2 x Outer Bag Fabric 10.5” x 13.5” Cut 2 x Lining Bag Fabric 10.5” x 13.5” To personalise your treat bag make a letter template, transfer it onto your Appliqué paper, then iron on to the fabric. Cut out the letter, peel off the backing paper and iron it on the front bag fabric. Sew around the letter as close to the edge as you can. Sandwich the Ric Rac at the top of the bag between the Outer & Lining fabrics, pin to secure. *Top Tip* (I baste the ric rac onto the front bag piece first to keep it steady when sandwiching) Sew across. Open out and press the seams gently. There are more detailed instructions for making a lined gift bag in one of my previous tutorials. https://www.craftcottonblog.co.uk/post/2018/09/13/lined-christmas-gift-sack The Fabric Bowl Method: Cut a rectangle 23.5” x 6.” One in front fabric, One in lining fabric & 2 in interfacing, then iron on stiff interfacing onto each piece. Repeat the Ric Rac step along the top long side of the bowl. Iron seams flat. Join the two short ends of the bowl by sewing with a 1/4” seam. Fold in half r/s out with ric rac at the top. For the base cut a 7.5” circle One for the outer fabric one for the lining, iron stiff interfacing onto each piece. Pin from inside the outer base onto the bottom of the bowl r/s of fabric facing down (this is time consuming but will give a nice neat finish) Sew round. Turn the bowl inside out and repeat for the inner base. Finger press out around the seam base to neaten, then fold the top over. Fill with TREATS! To see more from Nicola, follow her on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Angela Harkness Poppies for remembrance...make a beautiful cushion in remembrance. Supplies: 0.5m of black Poppies fabric 0.5m white craft cotton Wadding Heat and bond Fabric spray adhesive Black zip 18” long Directions: Step 1: Draw out a freestyle poppy outline onto the paper side of the heat and bond, adhere to the reverse of the black poppies fabric and cut out. Step 2: Cut white cotton fabric WOFx16” then adhere the wadding to the back of the white cotton fabric with spray adhesive. Find the centre of the panel and bond the poppy in pace using a dry iron. Step 3: Carefully free motion stitch around the outer edge of the poppy, retrace the stitches three or four times to give a sketchy appearance. Once happy with the outline, free motion stitch the centre of the poppy in a circular motion and then add in some stamens and petal edges. Step 4: Echo quilt around the poppy edge three times to give the poppy further definition against the plain white backing. Step 5: Trim the panel to 43” x 15” then insert the zip down the centre of the back cushion. Topstitch once inserted. Step 6: Make the binding for the cushion edging: · Cut fabric strips 3” wide · Join the strips together on the angle · Press the strip in half along the length · Stitch around all four edges of the cushion front, mitring the corners · Trim away any excess zip Fold over the binding and flip to the back and hand stitch in place. To see more from Angela, visit her on Instagram @angerellas_crafts Made by Angela Harkness for the Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Angela Harkness Fabric: Field of Memories - The Crafty Lass I have been contemplating taking a journey down the dressmaking route for quite some time but have been a little scared to take that first step, other than buying the occasional pattern which I liked the look of and of course, having a vast supply of fabrics at my fingertips! I had the wonderful, new Crafty Lass organic cotton Field of Dreams fabric supplied by The Craft Cotton Co and thought it was the perfect match to The Sussex Seamstress ‘Salvington Top’ pattern which I had previously bought. I chose this pattern as I liked the idea of the video tutorials available on sussexseamstress.com to hold my hand as I made the transition from patchwork and quilting into dressmaking! The pattern pieces were really sturdy, none of that flimsy tissue paper I remember my Mam using when she made my dresses when I was a girl. I watched the video first, then followed the comprehensive pattern instructions printed in the booklet. Pinning the pattern pieces onto the fabric was easy, making sure I had the lovely, colourful flowers all in the same direction. The top stitched together beautifully, the fabric was lovely to work with and was so soft, and best of all, once I had finished sewing, it actually fit…Yay! My new top brightened up the cloudiest of Summer days too which is an added bonus. Now I have one dressmaking project completed, I think my next thing to make will be either a skirt or a dress, seeing as I have a bit of a dress obsession. Any pattern recommendations? I’m also keen to explore some of the other Craft Cotton Co organic cotton fabrics as I really like the way they handled when working with them, they wash well and are comfortable to wear. I can now finally add #dressmaking to my Instagram posts. To see more from Angela follow her on Instagram @angerellas_crafts. Written by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Mary-Ellen Fabric: At the Beach - Simplicity Vintage When it comes to sewing, my focus is usually on dressmaking – it is very seldom that I choose smaller, accessory style projects. However, when I received a sample of the latest Simplicity x Craft Cotton Co summer collection, I could not resist sewing up a beach bag (which I have been using for all kinds of days out, not just beach days). One reason for this is that I knew I would get much more use than a garment would – summer days out always require carrying additional sundry items: sunscreen, the latest read, snacks (especially dog treats!) and – in the recent heatwave we have been having – as many bottles of water I can pack! I decided to sew up the Sun Tote bag pattern by Chalk and Notch which, incidentally, arrived in my inbox around the same time the fabric arrived. I’m a huge fan of Chalk and Notch dressmaking patterns so I knew the pattern would be an enjoyable sew; the only thing I wasn’t sure about was the fact that the pattern is for an unlined bag; but the heatwave convinced me to give it a go as it was too uncomfortable for long sewing projects. What I love most about the bag is the finishing techniques – the pattern uses felled seams (which I have loved ever since I started making men’s shirts for my other half – it’s a common technique in shirt making) and French seams. Even though the bag is well finished by using these techniques – no need for overlocking – it is still a simple and fast sew. I always appreciate a project when the insides look as meticulous as the outside. The pattern itself comes in three sizes, each with its own interior and exterior patch pocket pattern pieces, which are topstitched and edge-stitched so well reinforced. It has two strap lengths that can be doubled up – I’ve used both for the versatility for when it’s easier to carry either in hand or on the shoulder. The small size is perfect as a project bag – I intend one to keep my knitting project in for when I am on the go. It is also a good size to make little individual bags for children. The medium size – which is what I opted to sew up – is the perfect size for everyday use. It would also work as a shopper bag (imagine all the fabric you could pack in there). The large size is the perfect size to hold everything for a family day out at the beach. The finished measurements can be seen in the chart below: The Sun Tote is designed for medium weight woven fabric, so craft cotton works well; I love the finished use of this bag with the directional print of fabric. Of course, being unlined, the bag would be more structured if you used something like a denim or canvas, but I preferred the idea of using craft cotton as it also makes it easier to fold and carry the bag as a shopper.

Project by Michelle Roberts AKA Creative Blonde Follow my tutorial to make your very own Burp cloth and matching Bunny ear teething ring. These items make an excellent gift to celebrate the arrival of a new baby in the family. To create these items I'm using the brand new collection Jersey Rainbow exclusive to Hobbycraft. To make this matching set, print and cut out the templates attached below. (Check the 1” guide is correct when printing). You will need to cut 1 from the super cute jersey fabric and 1 from white terry towelling. If you would like to personalise these items, the letters need to be cut out onto bondaweb and fused to your chosen fabric. This can then be fused to the item, FMQ around the lettering before sewing the two main fabric pieces together. Lay your two pieces of fabric (towelling and jersey) RST and sew around using ¼” seam allowance, take your time as jersey fabric can be tricky to sew with. Leave a 2” gap for turning. Turn right side out and press, sew up the hole using a ladder stitch. Add a teething ring to the bunny ears. To see more from Michelle, follow her on Instagram @creativeblondegifts, Facebook and check out her website creatvieblondegifts.com. Written by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Luke Breakspear What you will need: 2 - 18”x14” Outer fabric 2 - 18”x14” Inner fabric 2 - 18”x14” fusible lining (I use white and the heavy stuff, give the bag more substance). 2 - 22”x 8” of outer fabric to make handles 2 - 22”x8” fusible lining 2 - 6”x2” foam pieces 1 - 14”x6” pocket fabric. 1 - Set of magnetic clasp and backings Sewing machine Quilting yarn (colour of your choice) Scissors and or cutting board and knife 1 - 2”x2” cardboard square for measuring corners Iron on a medium / high heat Clips or pins So to try and make this a bit easier to follow I have broken this down into stages. Prep, handles, pocket, inner, outer and final stage. Prep 1. Cut outer fabric to size. 2. Cut inner fabric to size. 3. Cut handles to size. 4. Cut out all fusible linings. 5. Set up your sewing machine. I use a standard piecing foot with just a regular stitch size. I don’t go small stitches on this as it can pull a bit too tight where the handles attach. 6. Placing the 18”x14” fusible onto the wrong side of the outer fabric, press with a medium to hot iron securing it in place. You will need to do this twice for both pieces of outer fabric. 7. The bumpy side of the fusible goes face down and only iron the smooth side otherwise your iron will stick to it! 8. Taking the two handle pieces fold them in half on the longest edge. Then fold the outer edge into the centre. When you open it out you should have four long panels. 9. Place the thin strip of fusible lining into one of the panels and press to secure. You will need to do this for each handle. 10. Fold back inwards and secure with clips. Handles: 1. Fold the handles in half to find the mid point, either press or mark with erasable fabric pen. 2. Place one foam insert at the half way point. 3. Sew along the open edge with approximately 1/8” seam to close the handle. Go slowly near the foam as the fabric can shift. 4. Repeat on the closed edge for symmetry. 5. Feel on each handle where the foam starts and ends, secure it in place by sewing across the handle at either side of the foam. 6. Put the handles to the side, you will need to attach them later. Pocket 1. Fold pocket material so it is approximately 7”x6”. 2. Sew all three open sides with a 3/4” seam allowance. Make sure you leave a gap on one edge so you can turn the pocket out. 3. Once sewn, trim all four corners slightly so the turn out is smooth. 4. Turn out the pocket and press with an iron. 5. Take one piece of the inner fabric and fold in half to find the centre point. 6. Fold the pocket in half to find its centre point. 7. Place pocket 2-3” down form the top of the lining matching the centre points up and pin. 8. Sew with 1/4” seam allowance on the left, right and bottom sides of the pocket. Ensure you back stitch at the start and finish to secure it. Inner 1. Place the two pieces of inner fabric right sides together. 2. Sew left right and bottom sides with a 1cm seam allowance. On one side ensure you leave a gap so you have a turn-out space. 3. Using your 2”x2” cardboard piece, mark with an erasable pen the two bottom corners, both left and right. I line up the cardboard on the inside of the stitches I have already made. 4. Carefully cut the two corners off. 5. Press the seams open, as this will make it easier to match seams ready to close and ‘box’ the corners. 6. Open each corner out and match the seams to make the boxed edge and clip in place. 7. Sew along each boxed edge with a 1cm seam allowance. You can turn this out when you have done this and it should look like this. 8. When both corners are sewn, leave it inside out, with right sides facing each other. 9. I add two small pieces of fusible lining here where I want the magnet fastener to go. I add this now as it can be fiddly doing it at the end. Outer 1. Take both outer pieces and decide which of the longest edges will be the top. This will depend on the pattern of your fabric. (I once made a rookie mistake sewing the top closed so I had an upside down bag). 2. Fold both in half on the stop edge mark or press the centre point. 3. 3” from the centre point place one handle and pin in place to it ‘hangs down’. Repeat on the other side so you have a handle pinned to each outer fabric piece. (Depending on how long you want your handles you can extend the handle edge past the top of the outer fabric) 4. Sew both handles in place with 1/4” seam. 5. Place both outer pieces right sides together (same as the inner) and sew down the left, right and bottom sides. If you have a makers label, ensure you insert it before sewing, otherwise you will find yourself unpicking. 6. Using your 2”x2” cardboard piece, mark with an erasable pen the two bottom corners, both left and right. I line up the cardboard on the inside of the stitches I have already made. 7. Cut out the corners. 8. Match the seams of each corner and sew with a 1cm seam. 9. You can now turn the outer pieces right side out and you have the shape of your bag. 10. Place the outer bag inside the inner bag, taking care to place the handles down and in between both. 11. Match and clip both seams of the inner and outer pieces together 12. Clip around the outside edge of the top taking care to match the top edges of fabric together. Final Stage - bag construction and finishing: 1. If your sewing machine has a detachable drawer, I would say take it off, as you will need to rotate your bag as you sew the top edge together. 2. Sew around the whole circumference of the top edge, effectively sealing the bag up. I use a generous 1cm seam as it captures the top edge and handles. 3. This is my favourite bit of the make. The turn out! You will have to pull the bag inside out through the opening you left in the lining pieces. It can be a little tight depending on how big a gap you left yourself. Once turned out you should see an almost finished bag. 4. Manipulate the bag so that the lining sits comfortably inside, pushing the box corners out to meet each other. This should bring your top edges flat. If it doesn’t, do a bit of wiggling so that the top edge of the opening of your bag is flat. I often press with an iron to get that crisp edge. Once pressed flat, sew again around the whole circumference of the top edge with a 1/4” seam. 5. You now need to mark where your magnet fastener will go. I use the backing to mark the two holes I need to cut. Do this on both inner pieces taking care that they both match up centrally. 6. Using a stitch ripper, carefully cut along all lines drawn. Don’t go too fast as you might end up slipping and making a bigger hole than you intended. 7. Place both parts of the fastener on each side and seal with a backing plate. 8. You can now sew along the edge of the inner fabric to seal the pulling hole. 9. I like to finish by pressing the front and back of the bag to get rid of any unwanted creases from the pull through. Congratulations you have finished your bag! It should end up being approximately 10” tall, 13” wide and 4” deep. This is a versatile little bag which can be used as an occasionally picnic bag, beach bag or just day to day handbag. I’ve had lots of requests for them. All in all if you make it start to finish it should take 2-3 hours. Have fun making them! To see more from Luke follow him on Instagram @lukeyboyoriginals. Written by Luke Breakspear for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Michelle Roberts AKA Creative Blonde Follow my tutorial to make your very own 2 in 1 tablecloth. This table cloth is perfect for a picnic bench cloth and as a picnic blanket. To create this napkins I'm using the brand new collection British Waterways designed by Sarah Payne. Be sure to check out my 3 in 1 Napkin tutorial, which can also be used for a cutlery wrap and placemat. To make this tablecloth, cut four green squares measuring 9 ½”, six kingfisher squares measuring the same and six flower squares (I centralised the kingfisher in the centre of the square) Making a total of 16 squares (finished tablecloth measure 36” square) Begin sewing the squares together using ¼” seam allowance, as shown below. Once you have four rows, sew the rows together, nesting the seams as you go. Cut a piece of Hobbs white bleached batting measuring 38” x 38” ( this is perfect when working with white fabric). I used Island batik ‘Snow’ fabric for the backing (38” x 38”). Sandwich the wadding between the top and backing piece of fabric. Quilt using your preferred method. Trim edges. Cut 4 strips from the green fabric, each measuring 1 ¼” x 40” Join each strip together to make your binding. Sew with RST the binding strip and the edge of the quilt. Press over ¼” of the raw edge, and hand sew to the reverse of the cloth. Your tablecloth/picnic blanket is picnic ready. To see more from Michelle follow her on Instagram @creativeblondegifts, Facebook and don't forget to visit her website creativeblondegifts.com. Written by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Michelle Roberts AKA Creative Blonde Follow my tutorial to make your very own 3 in 1 napkins. These napkins have many uses, from placemats, to napkins to cutlery wraps. To create this napkins I'm using the brand new collection British Waterways designed by Sarah Payne. Be sure to check out my Picnic blanket that double as a table cloths for picnics benches. To make a matching set of two napkins, cut two green squares measuring 12 ½” and two kingfisher squares measuring the same (I centralised the kingfisher in the centre of the square) Next cut two pieces from the green fabric measuring 3” x 4” this will be used to tie around the cutlery when wrapped up. To create the ties, fold one short over ¼” and press. Fold the whole piece in half, press, open out and fold the two outer edges to the centre crease and press. Fold in half and top stitch around the edge. Pin to the inside top left corner of the green square, make sure the raw edge is pinned towards the raw edge of the square. Lay one of each fabric square RST and sew around the edge using a ½” seam allowance. Leave a 2” gap for turning right side out. Fix a Kam snap to one edge of the tie, and the other half 2 ¼” into the pain fabric - parallel to the first one. (see photo above for placement). Follow the photo below to see how to wrap your cutlery up. The Cutlery Wrap: The Napkin: The Placemat: Repeat the process to create a matching pair. To see more from Michelle follow her on Instagram @creativeblondegifts, Facebook and check out her website creativeblondegifts.com. Written by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Emma Taylor What You Need: 0.5m Fabric 1 (Main Fabric) 0.5m Fabric 2 (Pocket) 0.5m Of Wadding Scissors Sewing Machine Basic Sewing Kit What You Need To Cut Out: Cut 2 10”x16” pieces from fabric 1 (main fabric) Cut 1 12”x16” pieces from fabric 2 (pocket) Cut 1 10”x16” piece of wadding Cut 2 12”x2” pieces from your left over fabric , this will make the ties Construction Step One: Constructing the ties. Take your first 12”x2” piece and finger press in to the middle. Then fold in half and stitch down the edge. Step Two Fold your 12”x16” piece in half and press. Then lay this piece on top of one of the main fabric pieces. Insert your two ties on the top of the pocket then lay your second main piece on top of the whole sandwich right sides together Step Three Move this entire sandwich on top of the wadding and stitch all the way around leaving a 3”-4” gap for turning. I used ¼” seam allowance. When stitched turn it right side out. Fold in the open seam and pin. Then sew all the way around the project closing the gap but also adding a nice stitch detail to the project. Step Four The last step on this project is making the pockets. Sew lines down the pocket part of the case. These can be what ever size you want depending on what you want to use your fabric roll for. This is then your complete fabric roll pouch. Remember the measurements that I have used here are only a guide. You can 100% customize every aspect of this pouch. If you make this pouch following this guide please tag me on your social media posts so I can see. Thank you for reading my blog entry for the cotton craft company. To see more from Emma, follow her on Instagram @taylormademisfit. Made by Emma Taylor for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Stephanie Marsh Finished size: 40” x 48” You will need: 1/2 m each 5 patterned fabrics (peach, green, yellow, blue, larger green pattern) 1/2m plain cream fabric Wadding, at least 41 x 49” Co-ordinating thread Cut the following: 4.5” x 8.5” oblongs: 9 peach 9 green 9 yellow 8 blue 4.5” x 4.5” squares: 4 larger green pattern 10 plain cream 4.5” x 33” strips: 2 cream 4.5” x 48” strips: 2 cream From the rest of the fabric cut 3.5” strips, enough to make up a 172” continuous strip by joining them at the short edge using a ¼” seam allowance. Use ¼” seam allowance throughout. Method 1. Using the picture below lay out your oblongs/squares. 2. Start by sewing the strips together along the short edges from one side to the other as per the layout above. Press the seam allowances open. 3. Now join the strips by marking half way along the oblongs, I do this just by folding one of them in half and finger pressing lightly, place the seam of the strip below on this crease, continue along the whole strip, pinning the seam allowances open. Stitch using a ¼” seam allowance. 4. Continue in the same way until all the strips are joined together. Press the seam allowances open. 5. Take the 48” strips in cream and sew one to the either side of the patchwork. Press the seams open. 6. Now take the 33” cream strips and sew the 4.5” squares onto the short edges on each of them (if your fabric has a nap (one way pattern) double check that you sew them on the right way round). Press the seam allowances open. 7. Stitch these to the bottom and top of the patchwork, matching the side borders with the green squares at the corners. 8. Put the patchwork to one side and lay the backing down, right side facing down. 9. Place the wadding on top, then with right side facing up place the patchwork over the top with the wadding sandwiched in-between. 10. Working from the centre outwards pin and smooth out all layers together. I used curved safety pins, but standard ones or pins can work well too. 11. Quilt together all layers in whichever way you would like. I stich ¼” away from the edge on the horizontal strips and around the edge of them then ¼” from the edge inside the border strips. 12. Remove all the safety pins / pins and press well. 13. Take the 3.5” strip that you made from the left overs and fold in half lengthways, right sides facing out, press well. 14. Starting on one of the long sides place the raw edges on the strip level with the raw edge of the quilt (front of quilt facing if you are going to hand stitch the binding on the back or back facing if you want to machine stich it in place). Start stitching about 6” from short edge and ¼” away from edge, until you get ¼” away from the corner and with the needle down on your machine, pivot 45 degrees and stitch off the edge. 15. With the quilt held as the picture above, with the last stitched line at the top fold the binding upwards. 16. The fold the binding at the top bringing the raw edges to match. 17. Start stitching off the edge stitch down as before, stopping ¼” before the end, repeat as above on all 4 corners. 18. To enclose the raw short edges stop stitching about 3” before the end of the strip with the needle down and finder press 1/2 “ on the short raw edge to the wrong side at the start of the binding strip, open it up and please the end of the binding strip inside and close it, continue stitching until you have stitched all the way around. 19. Fold the binding strip over to the other side. Hand stitch in place, as I have. Alternatively, you can machine in place if you are bringing the binding to the front of the quilt. 20. Press well. To see more from Stephanie follow her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh. Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.