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Project by Sally Kendall Hey everyone! Welcome to my first blog post as a part of the blogger team. Now, I had to start with a bang didn’t I? If you ever thought, no I can’t make dresses then think again! I love dressmaking as it means I don't have to conform with fashion trends and it helps me express my personality! The sewing pattern I used to make this dress is the Kinfolk Dress by Jennifer Lauren Handmade. Construction is a breeze with no fastenings and casual grown-on sleeves. A gentle rounded neckline and in-seam pockets are paired with a pretty A-line shaped skirt, falling to just below the knee. The Kinfolk Dress has 40s bohemian style at its heart. Part kaftan, part-wrap style dress, slip Kinfolk over your head and wrap the front waist ties around to the back to cinch in the silhouette however you please. According to my measurements I fell into 18 E cup for bust, 20 waist and 22 hips. I had my little black cat Ava assisting as a pattern weight while cutting out. Before making a start on sewing up my dress, I make sure I have everything at hand ready as nothing worse than getting frustrated as you can’t find a certain item. Not forgetting the most important thing to keep me going is a cup of tea in my favourite mug! At any opportunity, I love to add a garment label to my makes. With my little helper this label was quite fitting as no doubt it contains cat hairs just with her sitting on my fabric. A little tip of sewing your garment labels in the right place. With this dress the neckline was finished with facings, so with the back facing, I folded it in half to find the middle and marked with a pin. Then with my snazzy little sewing ruler, I marked with a pin where the seam would be when sew in into the bodice. Measured from the bottom of the facing then went from there to get it perfectly placed. I sewed in place using pins to secure the label and voila the perfectly placed label. This soon whipped up in no time and I was so pleased when I had constructed the bodice of how pretty it looked, I had to take a mid progress shot. The skirt was easy to construct and I added the elastic to the back to cinch it in. To help the facings to sit in place, I ‘stitched in the ditch’ basically, where the shoulder seam is, stitch where the previous stitch line is and only go to the end of the facing. This dress is so comfy to wear yet looks so pretty. It served me well with a lunch date with my Hubby at Wagamamas. Hope this has spurred you on to give dressmaking a go or to try a new to you pattern. Happy Sewing! Sally aka The Yorkshire Sewist To see more from Sally, follow her on Instagram/Facebook @theyorkshiresewist and don't forget to check out her website! Made by Sally Kendall for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need: 1 m fabric 8 x 24” medium weight iron on interfacing Velcro Co-ordinating thread 3” piece of coordinating bias binding Apron: 1. From the sketch below and based on your child’s age cut 1 (on the fold) main apron piece, 2 armhole facings (the shape pf the curved edge x 2.5” (see below) and the tie 72” x 2”. 2. For the tie, fold in half lengthways, right sides together. Sew using a ¼“ seam allowance all around, leaving a gap of about 3” for turning. Trim the corners. 3. Turn right sides out. Press and ladder stitch opening closed. Put to one side. 4. Attach the facings to the armhole. Matching the curved edges pin and stitch right sides together. 5. Open out and press. Under stitch close to the seam line on the facing. 6. Press, onto the wrong side, ¼” on the top hem, then press over another ½”, stitch in place. 7. Repeat with the sides. 8. With the bottom hem press ¼” to the wrong side, then press over another inch. Turn under the corners slightly to give a better finish. Stitch in place. 9. With the raw edge of the armhole facing press under ¼” to the wrong side, then fold over onto the wrong side at the seam. Stitch along the folded edge. 10. Using a safety pin, pin it to one end of the tie thread it through though the armhole facings, from one side, up to neck line, down the other neck line and put the other side. Child Chefs Hat: 1. Cut 1 18” circle in fabric and 1 oblong 8” x 24” in fabric and medium weight iron on interfacing 2. Press the interfacing onto the wrong side of the oblong of fabric. 3. Press the long edges under by ½” onto the wrong side. 4. With right sides together, lengthways stitch down the short edges, starting ½ down from the open edge. Trim the corners and turn right side out. 5. Take the circle of fabric and stitch the 3” piece of bias tape around part of the edge, see pic below. 6. Along the rest of the outer edge of the circle stitch all around, approx. ¼” from the raw edge using the largest stitch, stopping either side of the bias tape, leaving long thread ends for gathering. 7. By pulling one of the thread very gently gather up the raw edges to fit into the open edge of the rectangle. 8. Pin in place, you may want to tack in place here, onto one side of the opening of the band, then place the other side over the top encasing the raw edge of the circle. 9. Stitch on place using 2 rows of straight stitch. 10. Cut a 3.5” piece of Velcro, pin in place on the hat. The hooks on the outside and loops on the inside. Check for fit on the child’s head (or measure using a tape measure), then stitch in place. To see more from Stephanie, follow her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh. Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Zoe Roberts This super simple, yet gorgeous double-sided fabric gift wrap is perfect for presents no matter what time of the year it is. The pattern is easily adapted to making wraps of all different sizes depending on your needs. This project is made using Christmas themed fabric, but you could mix your themes/fabrics for a wrap that’s ready to use any time of the year. Couple it with a coordinating gift tag and you’ll want to ask for it back to reuse over and over again! What you’ll need: 3 x fat quarters - I used ‘Colourful Christmas Fat Quarters’ 1m x wide ribbon 10cm x narrow ribbon for gift tag Sewing machine Fabric scissors/rotary blade, mat and quilting ruler Snips/embroidery scissors Thread Sewing clips or pins Fabric marker (optional) Gift tag template - download here Instructions for gift wrap: 1. Cut resources for the wrap: Cut 2 squares of coordinating or contrasting fabric measuring 45cm x 45cm/17in x 17in. Cut two pieces of wide ribbon each measuring 50cm. 2. Place the first piece of fabric right side UP. 3. Position one piece of ribbon diagonally on top - making sure that it overlaps the corner slightly. 4. Position the second piece of ribbon diagonally on top - starting at the opposite corner. 5. Carefully lay the second square of fabric on top right side DOWN. 6. Clip or pin all the layers together around the edge. Mark a gap (approximately a hand width) for turning the project through after sewing. Use different coloured clips/pins or a fabric marker to do this. 7. Use a ⅜in or 1cm seam allowance. Start with a reverse stitch where the gap is marked and sew around the four edges. Reverse stitch to secure them in place at the end. TOP TIP: At each corner, lower the needle into the fabric before pivoting. This will ensure a defined point when it is turned the right way out in the next step. 8. Trim the fabric at the corners to reduce bulk. 9. Turn the fabric wrap the right way out. Gently ease the corners out with your fingers or a blunt implement (like a chop stick). Where there is no ribbon, ease out completely. Where there is ribbon, leave the corner tucked neatly inside (see photo for clarification). 10. Press the fabric wrap - paying particular attention to the opening. Make sure the seam allowance is pressed neatly inside. 11. Topstitch around the edges of the fabric wrap. This will close the gap and further secure the ribbons in place. Instructions for gift tag: 1. Cut fabric for the gift tag: Cut 2 tags of coordinating or contrasting fabric using the template OR a shape of your choice. Cut 1 piece of narrow ribbon measuring 10cms/4 inches. 2. Place the first piece of fabric right side UP and mark the centre point where the ribbon will be placed. 3. Fold the ribbon in half and position it so that the raw edges line up with the raw edge of the fabric. 4. Lay the second gift tag piece right side down on top. Pin/clip around the edges to keep everything in place. Mark a gap (approximately 5cm/2in) for turning the project through after sewing. Use different coloured clips/pins or a fabric marker to do this. 5. Use a ⅜in or 1cm seam allowance. Start with a reverse stitch where the gap is marked and sew around the four edges. Reverse stitch to secure them in place at the end. TOP TIP: At each corner, lower the needle into the fabric before pivoting. This will ensure a defined point when it is turned the right way out in the next step. 6. As with the fabric wrap (step 8), trim the fabric at the corners to reduce bulk. 7. Turn the gift tag the right way out. Gently ease the corners out with your fingers or a blunt implement (like a chop stick). 8. Press the gift tag - paying particular attention to the opening. Make sure the seam allowance is pressed neatly inside. 9. Topstitch around the edges of the fabric wrap. This will close the gap and further secure the ribbons in place. How to use the gift tag: The gift tag itself is reusable. In order to personalise your gift, you could do the following: Use a white sticky address label Use a Cricut/Silhouette machine to cut initials or a ‘love from… x’ message from iron-on vinyl Ultimately, it depends on who is going to reuse the gift tag in future - the giver or the recipient! How to use your fabric gift wrap: 1. Lay the gift diagonally onto your fabric wrap. 2. Fold a corner that does not have ribbon on it over the gift. 3. Repeat for the opposite corner. I like to tuck this corner under near the centre. 4. Using the two corners with ribbon attached, tie a knot to secure the gift inside. 5. Slide the gift tag over one of the ribbons, if using. 6. Tie a bow. 7. Tuck the excess fabric in at the sides. This fabric wrap really is the gift that keeps on giving! I may even wrap some wraps as a gift this year! To see more from Zoe, follow her on Instagram @oodlesofcraft and check out her website! Made by Zoe Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Lesley Connelley Keep all your pins, needles, scissors and thread for your current craft project organised in one place with a sewing cube, this cube also has a Christmas theme and would make a perfect gift. Materials Classic Poinsettia Christmas fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company. Batting (35x25cm piece). Thread. Needle. Scissors. Ruler. Toy Stuffing. Paper. Felt (8x3cm). 1. Take the paper and draw and cut out a 11x11cm square. This will form the template for the cube sides. 2. Choose a fat quarter to form the main cube and cut out 6 squares. 3. Pick a second fat quarter to form the pocket and cut out 1 square. 4. Take a third fat quarter for the side flap and cut out 1 square. 5. Take a final fat quarter and cut 4 6x40cm strips to form the bow strips. 6. Use the template to cut 6 squares from the batting. 7. Take the side flap piece and fold in half (wrong sides together), press, unfold and place the felt piece in the middle of the bottom half of the side flap, sew to secure. Fold the side flap in half (right sides together). Sew down each side to secure. Fold out the right way. 8. Place down a piece of batting and put a main cube square on top, then place the side flap piece on top 0.5cm from the side edge with the raw bottom edge of the flap against the raw bottom edge of the main cube piece and pin to secure. 9. Take a piece of batting and place a main cube square on top, fold the pocket square in half (wrong sides together), place on top with the raw edges of the pocket piece against the raw edge of the bottom of the square and pin to secure. 10. Place the main cube piece with side flap on top of the main cube square with pocket (right sides together) pin down the right hand side and sew to secure starting 0.5cm from the top edge and finishing 0.5cm from the bottom edge. 11. Repeat with the remaining 2 main cube side pieces. When all 4 are joined together, join the 1st and last side together by placing right sides together and sewing down the side edge secure starting 0.5cm from the top edge and finishing 0.5cm from the bottom edge. 12. Take 2 of the bow strips, place right sides together and sew around leaving one short edge unsewn. Turn out the right way and repeat with the remaining 2 strips. 13. Place a piece of batting and put a main cube piece on top to form the base, take one of the bow strips and place the bow strip in the middle of one of the side edges of the base with the raw edge of the bow strip against the side raw edge of the base. Pin to secure and repeat with the other bow strip on the opposite side. 14. Place the base into the joined sides (right sides together) and sew to secure. 15. Take the final batting and fabric square to form the top and place in the joined sides and base (right sides together) and sew to secure, leaving a 8cm gap form turning. Turn out the right way, add stuffing and slip stitch the gap to secure. 16. Tie the bow detail at the top. To see more from Lesley, follow her on Instagram @hookstitchsew and visit her website! Made by Lesley Connelly for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Lesley Connelly This Christmas themed gnome cushion is perfect for adding in a little more Christmasy-ness into your home this Festive season. It would also make a great gift and you could even personalise them with the name of the recipient. Materials: Fabric: Icy snowman: 1 piece 46x46cm, 2 pieces 46x50cm. Gingerbread wreaths: 2 pieces 28x30cm. Elves and foliage: 1 piece 30x28cm. Pink Fabric (a fat quarter from the pink essential trends range is great for this) - or you can use pink felt: 1 circular piece with a 16cm diameter. Equipment: 45x45cm cushion pad. Thread. Needle. Scissors. Pins. 25g ball of DK wool. How to: 1. Take the Elves and foliage 30x28cm piece of fabric and fold in half so it is 15x28cm. Starting 10cm from the bottom edge cut the fabric so it starts to curve in slightly towards the top. This forms the body of the gnome. 2. Take one the Gingerbread wreaths 28x30cm pieces of fabric and fold in half so it is 15x20cm. Starting from the base cut the fabric to form the hat. Next making sure to have the fabric with its raw edges to the left, cut a curved line starting from the bottom left hand corner to 1cm up from the bottom at the folded edge on the right hand side. Repeat with the other fabric piece. These will form the hat. 3. Take the two hat pieces and place right sides together, sew around the edges to secure leaving a 4cm gap for turning. Turn out the right way and slip stitch the gap closed. 4. Take the circular pink fabric piece and place right side down, fold in the edge by 0.5cm and sew around, pull the thread to form a fabric yo yo. Sew a couple of stitches to secure. This will form the nose. 5. Take the Icy snowman 45x45cm piece, this will form the front of the cushion, place the body of the gnome on top. Sew around to secure. 6. Take the hat piece and place onto of the body, position it so it fits with the side edges of the hat aligning with the body edges, don’t secure the hat but pin a line along the bottom edge of the hat to give a guide for the beard. 7. Take the white wool and create large loops to form the beard sew the loops to secure at the top of the beard just above the pinned hat line. Complete another row above the first. 8. Place the hat on the front of the cushion and sew to secure. 9. Sew the nose onto the front of the cushion. 10. Place the front cushion piece right side up then take the 2 the Icy snowman 46x50cm pieces of fabric, fold in half so they are 26x25cm then place one top of the front piece with the raw edge along the top raw edge of the front cushion piece, then place the second piece with its raw edges along the bottom edge of the front cushion piece with the folded top edges overlapping in the middle of the cushion to create the back. Make sure the beard and hat top point is not caught up in the seam before sewing. 11. Sew around to secure. 12. Turn out the right way and cut the loops of the beard. To see more from Lesley, follow her on Instagram @hookstitchsew and don't forget to visit her website! Made by Lesley Connelly for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Emily Roberts Fabric: Freddie & Friends at the Park Forever putting things in your pocket when taking the dog on the walk or don't have pockets and have phone, keys and the dogs treat all in your hands? Make yourself this handy dog walking bag and have your hands free to enjoy the walk. You will need: Freddie and friends fat quarter bundle X2- 1 inch D rings 1" adjustable bag slider X1 curtain grommet Wadding From your fat quarter bundle, you will need to cut: x2 outer bag pieces measuring 8" by 9" x2 lining bag pieces measuring 8" by 9" x2 pieces of wadding measuring 8" by 9 " x1 outer flap measuring 8" by 6.5 " x1 Lining flap measuring 8" by 6.5" x1 wadding measuring 8" by 6.5" x 2 poo bag pocket pieces measuring 8 " by 5 " x2 Treat pocket pieces measuring 8" by 6.5 " x2 D Ring tabs measuring For the strap I used scraps and joined them together they need to be 4" wide and once joined together about 42 " in length How to make: Step 1: Take your 2 poo bag pocket pieces and place them right sides together. Sew along the top edge. Flip so wrong sides are together and press then top stitch along the edge that you have sewn. Repeat this process with the treat pocket pieces. Step 2: Take your curtain grommet and an erasable pen. And place it on the right side of the poo bag pocket. Draw around the centre circle wherever you would like the poo bag dispenser. Using some small scissors cut out the small circle through both pocket pieces and then open your grommet place the pocket between both pieces and snap the grommet in place. Step 3: Place the poo bag pocket on top of the main front bag piece with the back of the pocket facing the right side of the bag. Sew down the side edge, along the bottom and back up the other edge. Repeat with the treat pocket on the back bag piece. Step 4: Fuse the wadding to the wrong side of the lining pieces of the bag and flap. Place the 2 flap pieces right sides together sew down the short edge, along the bottom and back up the other short edge. Turn the right sound out and press and top stitch the edges you have just sewn. Step 5: Take your 2 outer bag pieces that now has the pockets attached. Put them right sides together and sewn down the side, along the bottom and back up the opposite side. Leave the top edge free. Repeat with the lining pieces but leave a gap along the bottom edge about 4 inches for turning later. Step 6: To make your strap sew all your scraps together along the short edges to make one long strip. Press the seams open. To make the strap press the strip in half lengthways, open back out and then press each long edge to the centre crease you have just made. Finally press in half again. Sew down both long edges to secure. Step 7: Take your Flap and your outer bag. Place the flap on the inside of the bag, at the back with the right side of the flap facing the right side of the bag. Align the edges at the top and sew in place within the ¼ seam allowance. This is just to hold it in place for now. Step 8: Take your D ring tabs and press the two outer long edges into the centre and then press in half, sew down both edges to secure. Step 9: Thread the D Ring tab through your d ring and fold it in half over it so short edges are together. Place the raw edge of the tab (now with d ring attached) to the top of the outer bag on the side seams so it is central. Do the same with the second tab on the other side seam. Step 10: Take your lining piece (Wrong sides still facing outwards.) and place it over the outer bag so that the outer bag ends up inside the lining and right sides should be facing. Make sure the d ring tabs and flap are sandwiched between the two layers. Sew all the way around the top edge. Step 11: Turn the bag the right way out through the gap you left in the bottom of the lining. Place the lining inside the outer bag and then top stitch around the top edge of the bag. It’s nice to lengthen your stitch length here to about a 3. Step 12: The final step is the strap. Take the strap and your adjustable slider. Thread the strap through the left hand d ring and fold over the end by about 1 inch. Make sure the folded in part is facing on the inside so when you are wearing the back you wont see it. Sew it down in place. Thread the other end of the strap through the adjustable slider and then down through the other D ring (again make sure you are feeding it towards the bag so that stitching will end up on the inside) Then finally thread through the back of the adjustable slider and turn the end down and sew in place. All that’s left to do is add your poo bags, stick the treats in the treat pockets along with all you other essentials and take your furry friend for a walk! Enjoy! To see more from Emily, follow her on Instagram @emibdesigns, Facebook and check out her website emibdesigns.co.uk! Made by Emily Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project By Nicola Hills 1. Open out the binding and with R/S together place on the edge of your quilt, leave a 4” piece then begin to sew along the crease which is 1/4”. When you get 1/4” away from the edge, stop stitching & keeping the needle down spin the fabric and sew off toward the corner. 2. Now fold the fabric back over the stitch line (I have pinned it here to show) and finger press down. 3. Fold back bringing the binding down in line with the quilt edge (again I have pinned to show). 4. Start stitching down, doing a little back stitch to hold in place. 5. When you get back to where you started, take the 4” piece you left before starting to sew, and fold it W/S together (back on itself) then take the rest of the binding match it up to the one you just folded and do the same. 6. Open up both binding sections and with R/S together place the bottom section on top of the top section where the fold line is in a T shape (I used a marker to show the fold line from the top section) Sew from corner to corner. Trim off excess fabric. Press. 7. Continue sewing along the binding crease to close the gap. 8. Fold the binding over towards the back and pin or clip. You can fold to create neat mitred corners. 9. My favourite part is to then hand stitch the binding at the back of the quilt, I find it very therapeutic. If you don’t… Just follow these steps but start at the back of the quilt then you can top stitch the binding on the front. To see more from Nicola, follow her on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin. Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton C0 2022.

Project by Lucy Picksley I knew what bag concept I wanted to create this time around as I’d known it’s purpose for quite a few months but executing it was something different. The title of the bag was clear from the outset, it was always meant to be the Leicester Lane bag so that element of the planning was sorted. Now to design the perfect dog walking bag. Something that was relatable, easy to wear, filled a brief to carry dog treats and poo bags but pretty enough to wear out and about on other outings. Life became a lot simpler when Paula from The Crafty Lass released her range ‘Wild Dreams’ which I instantly imagined set against a denim - my go to fabric of choice. I pulled my sketch book out and soon whipped up a scribbly drawing of simple patchwork set against a pocket that I tried to simulate as a jeans pocket with a simple curve and twin line of heavy stitches. In no time at all I had small squares of patterned and denim all joined together to make a rectangle panel of gorgeousness. I added an upper panel and free cut away the shape I wanted for the pocket and inserted the patterned fabric which shows off beautifully at the top of the bag and become one large external pocket for those essentials. A recessed zip keeps the inside safely closed all made up in my samples with a sparkly zip because, well, why not! So I got me a lovely bag, all I needed to do now was to refine a few of the details and produce it as a pattern – simple! I made the bag up again in some magenta oilcloth I had left over from a previous make and set to making it again and it came out even better (if that’s even possible). I decided that the patchwork panel was actually too long and the proportions were a little off, so I unpicked all of the first bag version and removed a row of the patchwork and then rebuilt the bag to check if it looked that bit better. Phew! It looked great, so much so that right under my nose I had a buyer for the bag which is what accolade anyone ever really needs isn’t it? The instruction writing went well, the photography for the step by step instructions soon came together and the story telling, the bit where this all started for me, soon seeped out of my pores and on to paper. Once again such a cathartic experience to be able to (justifiably) capture what one might consider a very ordinary memory yet so precious to me. Thanks to Emily who did a grand job as a model for me despite her nerves and passersby thinking she was a little mad spinning around by the trees! To see more from Lucy, follow her on Instagram @sew_pretty_sew_mindful and check out her Youtube channel! Made by Lucy Picksley for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Katie Done AKA The Fabric Squirrel It seems to be kids party season again. What I should do is keep a batch of ready to go presents, but I'm not that organised. The last two parties we have gone to, I have remembered the night before that we can't go empty handed. They have both been girl’s parties so this is now my new go to gift for little girls. They have both turned six, but I think this pattern works for all ages, just adjust the elastic to suit. I used some cake fabric from Lewis and Irene's Small Things Sweet collection because it seemed like the perfect birthday fabric. On the other I used the parrots from Beth Salts Parrots in Paradise collection. I tried half a metre and 40cm. I think the 40cm works best for age six, but this can be adapted for different ages. You Will Need: 1 metre of fabric 55cm of 1" wide elastic Sewing Machine Pins Safety Pin Method: 1. Cut your fabric. I used 40cm lengths and full bolt widths. You will need two of these. You could add pockets using one edge of the fabric and then it will just be a little less gathered. 2. Place the pieces right side together and stitch short edges together. 3. Finish your edges, I have overlocked them. 4. Press 1/4" hem and then again on the bottom edge of the fabric. 5. Press 1/4" on the top edge and then just over an inch (or wide enough to thread whatever length fabric you have used). 6. Sew your hem. On this purple skirt I have used a fancy leafy stitch to add some extra interest. 7. Sew close to the edge of the 1" channel you have created, leave a gap to thread the elastic through. 8. Attach a safety pin to one edge of the elastic to help you thread it through the channel. Keep hold of the other end so you don't end up pulling it all the way through. You can safety pin it to the end. 9. When you have pulled it all the way through, make sure it hasn't twisted and sew the ends together. Sew the gap closed. 10. Make sure the gathers are even across the waistband. Sew into the seam through the channel and the elastic. This will help keep the gathers even and the elastic from twisting. 11. To finish I have added a cute label that I had from a Figo panel. I reckon you can get this sewn up easily within an hour. It is a great one to have under your belt if you need a quick little girl gift. I hope you are feeling inspired. I would love to hear from you if you give it a go! To see more from Katie, follow her @thefabricsquirrel, Facebook and check out her blog! Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Katie Done AKA The Fabric Squirrel We have friends expecting their first baby in December. When they found out they were having a girl, I thought what better gift than a cute Christmas dress. One of my favourite Christmas collections this year is Beth Salts Jolly Robins, so I was really happy to be sent some to play with. I used an old favourite pattern. I have made it, probably a dozen times and no longer need the instructions, or so I thought. It had been so long since I made it that I got my unpicker out more times than I care to admit. Annoyingly I have misplaced the pattern since finishing the dress so I can't tell you the exact pattern, but it is an oldy and there are plenty of similar ones in this classic design. I made it in new born size, which was the smallest option however, I would say it was more of a 3 month size. The little lady is due in December so I have a feeling that it will still drown her at Christmas. The fabric pattern is super pretty and although it does feel festive, it isn't really in your face Christmas and won't look out of place on a frosty January day. The basic pattern is quite simple to make. Adding the collar and sleeves is what threw me a little. I usually like to hide as much of the seams as possible and pull the front through its sleeves. I forgot that this doesn't work when you have sleeves to add! This is where the unpicker came in. The only major change I made to this pattern, was add buttons on the back rather than a zip. I always think a zip on the back of a baby’s neck must be uncomfortable so, some small smooth buttons, very well sewn on seem much friendlier. I didn’t need to add any extra width to the back pieces. I don't want to put you off making this dress. There are very few pattern pieces to put together and the finished result, I think you would agree, is adorable. My biggest tip for this dress, and any pattern really, is to read all the instructions first and batch sew everything. There are lots of parts that you can sew together and then press together. It saves lots of bobbing up and down from the machine to the ironing board. I cut all the pieces and matched up the bodice, sleeves, skirt and collar. I could then sew and press everything together. I hate leaving the iron on too, so I am sure the bulk pressing helps with the electric bill. The pink adds an extra pop. If I didn't have the contrasting fabric, the simple dress pattern could easily be pimped up a bit with ribbons and trim. Hand sewing is not my favourite thing at all. However, when it comes to finishing off something special it is the only option. I have handstitched the inside of the lining to hide the fastening opening and the waistline seams. No new born wants the seams rubbing on their brand new skin. A young lady can't be flashing her nappy, so I always like to make a matching nappy cover with a baby dress. I wrote this pattern back in 2019 when the Craft Cotton Company launched their first Miffy collection. You can still get the pattern for it here. https://www.thefabricsquirrel.com/post/2019/03/07/nappy-cover-pants I hope you are feeling inspired to sew something festive for a little person in your life this Christmas! To see more from Katie, follow her on Instagram @thefabricsquirrel, Facebook, and check our her blog! Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Michelle Roberts AKA Creative Blonde Fabric: Foraging in the Forest Sizes: Cushion measures 16” x 16” and the bunting can be altered in length by adding or reducing the amount of trees. Each tree measures 7 ½” x 5” at the widest points. Begin by cutting your fabric pieces to make the trees Print the Tree template, at the end of this tutorial, cut out and draw around the shape onto cardstock - Cut out. Cut pieces measuring 5” x 7 ½” from your chosen fabric, you will need a front piece, a back piece and a wadding piece (Vlieseline x50). Multiplied by the number of trees you desire Let’s start making Christmas Trees Draw around your cardstock template onto the backing fabric with a fabric chalk pencil, Fuse/pin all three layers together and stitch along the drawn line. Cut around the stitched line using pinking shears about ⅜” from stitches, join to cotton tape to enable you to hang your Christmas tree bunting. Using two Christmas trees, we can now go on to make our quilted cushion. Cut two backing pieces for the cushion measuring 16” x 11” - I choose solid black. Fold and press over ¼” twice, along one of the longest edges, top stitch this seam, and repeat on the second backing piece. Cut a 16” square from forest green fabric for the front of your cushion, along with a 16” square of Vlieseline x50 wadding. Pin your Christmas trees into position on the cushion cover and sew over the previous stitched lines. Fuse the wadding to the front cover of your cushion, and quilt using your preferred method, I decided to go for a contour pattern, this is created by FMQ and slowing increasing the spaces from your previous stitched line to create a ripple effect. This quilted front panel can now be sewn to the backing, do this by pinning the front RST with the two backing pieces (be sure to lay the finished edge in the centre). Stitch using a ½” seam allowance, to add strength, do this twice. Snip away excess fabric from corners and turn right side out and press. Insert a 15” cushion pad. To see more from Michelle, follow her on Instagram @creativeblondegifts, Facebook and don't forget to check out her website! Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Bernadette Wainwright Skill level: Intermediate Fabric: Scattered Flowers Navy (exclusive to Hobbycraft) You will need: Fabric as per the pattern. I used a beautiful floral patterned jersey, Scattered Flowers, for the tunic and plain navy jersey for the leggings both from Craft Cotton Company. Simplicity 8430 Ball Point or Stretch Needle Walking Foot (optional) Overlocker if you have one. Sewing Machine and Basic Sewing Kit Introduction: One of the delights about making your own clothes and clothes for others is that you can make them to fit exactly. My niece is almost 10 years old but slight for her age, so I made this outfit to fit a 7 year old in the body and 10 years in height. They are simple alterations to make and give the perfect fit. My niece actually said, these are the best leggings she has ever worn, praise indeed for the fabric, pattern oh and me! The fabric, Scattered Flowers, was a delight to work with, it fed easily through both the sewing machine and the overlocker. The pattern had clear instructions and it all came together very easily. A full list of alterative fabrics and other materials/notions is printed on the back of the pattern. Before cutting check the crosswise stretch of your fabric using the handy guide, again on the back of the pattern to make sure your fabric is suitable for this project. Step-by-step instructions: All seams are 5/8” or 1.5cms unless otherwise stated. Before starting the project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through all the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. I always like to wash and iron my dressmaking fabric to minimise any shrinkage and ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make. Using a ball point needle or stretch needle sew the seams with either a straight stitch, stretching the fabric slightly as you sew or a narrow zig zag stitch. You may also have a stretch stitch (lightening stitch) built into your machine, or if you have one an overlocker/serger. A Leggings 1. Following the cutting guide, cut out the leggings, making any alterations to the pattern before you cut, remember I increased the leg length to size 10. 2. When using plain fabric, I mark the right and wrong sides also the front and back with heat erasable pens. 3. Follow points 1-4. 4. When forming the upper casing I like to press under 1½” then open out and press under ¼”, fold back down and stitch in place using a stretch stitch leaving a 3” gap at the back to insert the elastic. I prefer to use a bodkin to insert the elastic, but a safety pin will do if you don’t have a bodkin. 5. Follow steps 6-8 to finish the leggings off. D Shaped Tunic 1. Cut out the tunic following the cutting layout, again I cut size 7 and lengthened to size 10. 2. When sewing point 1, I didn’t have any hem tape to hand, so I used some ¼” wide ribbon. 3. After making and attaching the neckband I overlocked the seam before topstitching as in point 5 on the instructions, using the lightening stitch again. 4. Complete point 6. 5. I’m doing option D for the top, so the short-sleeved version, complete the sleeve insertion as per the instructions 7-8, pressing and neatening the sleeve seam open. Trim the ends of the seam to reduce bulk when hemming. 6. Insert the armhole and overlock or neaten, press this seam towards the sleeve. 7. Complete the skirt as per the instructions. 8. When doing the shaped hem, I did a row of easing stitches at the side seams to pull up the extra fabric. 9. Attach the skirt to the bodice as in point 12. Congratulations, your tunic and leggings are now complete, I hope your little one enjoys wearing them as much as my niece does. To see more from Bernadette, follow her on Instagram @littlemissdressco and Facebook @LittleMissDressCo. Made by Bernadette Wainwright for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.