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Project by Marie Pickles If you are looking for a very simple but ever so useful project, why not settle down for an hour or two and try this apron. Aprons are very much in vogue but they never really go out of fashion. They can be simple, fussy, made from all sorts of fabrics and as expensive or easy on the pocket as you choose. For this project I wanted simplicity! Nothing complicated. All straight cutting lines (with scissors if you want), no curves, or complicated calculations You can up your game of course - add loads of embellishments; curves, frills, fancy ties, pockets, towel loops, multiple fabrics and the rest. I decided to go as simple as I could, roll back decades to my schooldays and from somewhere in the murky depths of 1972 when I think I made an apron. The fabric is from the ‘British Waterways’ collection by Sarah Payne The colours are so rich and jewel like they are simply gorgeous. I’ve even been able to forget my phobia of butterflies and enjoy the whole experience. Requirements: Sewing Machine Cotton fabric of choice (you will need more if it is directional) Matching thread Scissors Optional – cutting mat and rotary cutter Tape measure Ruler Fabric marking pen/pencil Cutting Instructions: Press fabric and lay out flat with Right Side Down, (RSD) using a fabric marker mark the dimensions for all parts of the apron, cut and set aside. You can adapt the size to fit but remember there’s lots of play with waist ties etc. If you look on the internet there are many many patterns that you can download free. My apron is an adaptation of the one I made in 1st Form to use for Cookery, Domestic Science, Home Economics or whatever it’s called! Skirt - 33” x 25” Bib - 22” x 20” Neck Band (1) - 4.25” x 29” Waist Ties (2) - 3.5” x 36” Pockets (2) - 14.5" x 14.5” Tips: Press all fabric before you start. Measure, mark and name all pieces before you start cutting (makes sure you have sufficient fabric before you start). Try and concentrate on one element at a time and don’t get confused completing each step as far as possible before moving on. All elements have turned in (and doubled) seams; it is worth your while to get into a rhythm for these and prevent the frustration of missing a turn under or a wonky seam. After cutting, measure as you - fold and press as you go along and take the time to press all folded seams before stitching, it creates a crisp edge and makes the actual stitching much easier. You can use steam to lightly press. Please do not iron as you may stretch the fabric and cause yourself a problem. Where seams are turned under and top stitched along the outer edge you may if you want to secure by hand stitch, fabric glue or double sided hemming tape. 1. Waist Ties: Fold fabric in half with right sides facing (RSF). Sew a seam back stitching at beginning and end. Turn this tube through so fabric is right side out (RSO). Flatten with your fingers ensuring the seam is in the centre, press lightly. Fold the top inwards to create a point, pin to hold. Top stitch down one side, up to the top of the point then down the other side of the point and back to the open end. Hand stitch the point closed on the underside. Repeat for the second tie. Neck bands and waist ties prepared in the Fold tube into point same way, fold right sides together and stitch down securing top and bottom Topstitch Line up tie and stitch securely 2. Pockets: Fold fabric to RSF, sew down edge to create a tube. Keeping the seam on the outside edge; sew along one end to close it off and turn through. Press the pocket well, fold the open end in half an inch and sew closed. Turn the top edge over 0.5”and backstitch each side to hold in place, alternatively pin to hold (basically is a simple flap with no open edges). Set aside for later. Sew along to create tube 3. Neck Band: Fold fabric in half lengthwise and RSF, sew down the long edge backstitching top and bottom as you go (refer to image). Turn the tube through so its WSI (wrong side in). Using your fingers, manipulate the seam to the centre back of the neck band and press well. Turn ends inside tube and press. Neck band folded over and stitch between pins 4. Skirt: Press fabric well. With wrong side facing (WSF) and working with the sides first, fold under 1”and press and repeat folding in another 1”and press well. Do the same on the other side. Pin/clip top and bottom to hold. Stitch down each side and press. Working with the bottom, fold 2” under and press, repeat again with 2” fold. Press and pin/clip corners. Stitch across securing the stitching at each end. Top seam; fold under 1” and fold another 1” under and press. Fold the skirt in half and mark with a pen or a pin (this is a marking point to centre the skirt and bib to connect together later on). Take each waist tie and tuck in the open seam to create a neat top and press. With skirt WSF, place a tie on top of the side seam of the skirt lining it up to sit level with the skirt, pin if necessary. Stitch the tie in place sewing around all four sides. Using the tie as a guide stitch along the skirt end to end approximately (0.5”) in the centre of the top hem.* Stitch tie securely in place Bottom seam folded twice and stitched 5. Bib: Press fabric, working with the sides first, turn 2”under and press, fold a further 2” under and press. Repeat for both sides finishing with a final press. Top; fold 2” under and press, fold 2”under and press, either pin or clip the top corners to hold. Bottom; fold 1”under and press fold another 1” under and press. Pin along the length of the bib at the bottom edge. Take the neck band and press well, find the centre and mark 2.5” each side from centre. Fold neck band in half WST and stitch between the pin markers thereby reducing the neck band by half making it more comfortable. Fold both bib and skirt in half and mark the centre point on each with a pin or erasable marker. 2” seam turned under pressed & topstitched Stitch neck band in place behind bib Top stitch around bib Stitching bib and neck band in Neck band In-situ place 6. ASSEMBLY:- With the skirt WSF and the bib WSF, slip the bib behind the shirt matching up the centre point on both. Pin along to secure. Stitch bib to skirt along the turn under of the skirt (the bib effectively sits on top of the skirt). This will secure the 2 main elements but you should have no stitching showing on the right side of the apron at this stage. Take the neck band and press well, find the centre and mark 2.5” each side from centre. With RSF, starting at the outside edge of the bib; top stitch around the bib including across the skirt/bib and back up to where you started. Now sew across the bib top once more this time across the bottom seam of the bib turn under, starting and stopping within the topstitching. If required give the apron another press. With RSF decide where you want pockets positioned. I found having them at an angle was more comfortable; when you are happy pin in place ensuring the open edge is facing up and out. You now need to sew around the pocket twice allowing a 0.25” space between the seams. It will reinforce the pocket and add decor. Bib & skirt joined on lower edge of skirt seam 2 rows of stitching to secure bib and skirt Skirt with bib & pockets in place Pocket placement Stitch around pocket - twice for security 7. Finishing:- Clip off any remaining threads and for the last time (for now) press and look at all your hard work. Enjoy. To see more from Marie, check out her website craftypixy.com. Witten by Marie Pickles for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Suzanne Springall Fabric: Scandi Sweet Treats Sew these cute hanging decorations for Christmas. This project is perfect for gorgeous Christmas fat quarter fabrics. Stitch a few decorations onto a length of ribbon to make the perfect mini garland or use them individually as tree decorations. What you will need: Christmas print fabric. Quilting cotton is perfect. Make sure to choose a print with some clear images that will allow you to cut and stitch around each motif Small pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing An embroidery hoop Embroidery sewing needle A selection of embroidery threads Coloured felt sheet Ribbon to use for a hanging loop Dressmaker’s pins Step 1: Once you have chosen the image for your decoration, place the fabric into the embroidery hoop ensuring your chosen image is in the centre of the hoop. The fabric should be taut, but not too tight. Step 2: Using a selection of matching threads, stitch around the outline and any other details of your image. I’ve used two strands of thread for most of the details and one strand for some of the finer details such as the stars on the tree. Have fun with your stitches. I’ve used a mix of Back stitch, Running stitch, Satin stitch, Daisy stitch, Split stitch, and Star stitch. You can find instructions for all these embroidery stitches online. Tip: Don’t worry too much about using a small knot to secure your thread at the back of your work. Any ends will be covered by the felt backing. Step 3: Once you have finished stitching the details and removed your fabric from the hoop, press a piece of light or medium weight fusible interfacing to the back of your work according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The interfacing will provide some structure to your decoration and will prevent the cotton from fraying once cut. Step 4: Following the shape of your image, trim around the edge leaving approximately a 0.5cm allowance. Step 5: Pin your image to a piece of felt which is at least 1 cm bigger on all sides than your image. Using a sewing machine, stitch around the edge of your image to attach it to the felt. Tip: You may find it easier to reduce the length of your stitches and use a free motion foot if you have one. Place another piece of felt onto the back of your work, securing it with a couple of pins. Fold a length of ribbon in two and place the ends in between the two pieces of felt. This is the hanging loop. The length of ribbon will depend on how long you want your decoration to be. Step 6: Sew around your image once again, making sure you catch both ends of the ribbon in your stitching. This second line of stitches will determine the final shape of your decoration and should be stitched approximately between 3mm and 5mm outside your first line of stitching. You can now cut away any excess felt around the edges of your decoration. Step 7: Pop your decorations onto your tree and enjoy. Tip: If you wish to make your decorations into a mini garland, use a shorter hanging ribbon loop on each decoration which can then be sewn onto a longer length of ribbon or cord to make a garland. To see more from Suzanne, follow her on Instagram @suzumakes! Made by Suzanne Springall for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Nicola Hills Fabric: Scandi Sweets 1. Cut out 3 fabric circles, 2 from the main fabric, 1 contrasting fabric for the pocket and 1 from Bosal. 2. Draw your quilting pattern on the face side of the fabric with a heat/water erasable pen. Sandwich the front, Foam and back fabric, pin to secure and top stitch over the lines/pattern. 3. With the pocket piece fold it in half and follow the quilting lines you made on the front main section and top stitch. 4. Cut a 1.5” strip the length of the pocket piece, to bind the top of the pocket. 5. Place the binding onto the front pocket piece R/S together, sew along the top with a 1/4’ seam. Fold over and top stitch with the machine or hand stitch the other side. 6. Place the pocket piece on top of the main circle, pin or clip. Stitch around to hold in place. 7. Take 1.5” strips to bind the outside of the pot holder. This photograph shows you how to join them if they are not long enough. 8. Add a little hanger 9. Pin/Clip the binding all around the outside. 10. This is how you join the binding ends together. See my ‘Binding Tutorial’. Sew all around with a 1/4” seam. Add a bow or button to decorate if you wish! To see more from Nicola, follow her on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin! Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Nicola Hills You will need: Fabric for 20 Red Squares - 56 Green 1/2 square triangles - 56 Red 1/2 square triangles - 56 Woodland 1/2 square triangles Totalling: 188 pieces. 2.5” strip to make an outside border Backing fabric - Bosal Fibre and Foam 100% Cotton Batting (Each of my blocks were 12” Trimmed & Finished) Tools Required: Cutting Equipment - Rotary Cutter/ Scissors Template - Ruler - Cutting Mat Sewing Machine Basic Sewing Kit Pins Iron How To: The table runner is made up of 5 blocks. Here is 1 patch of 4 - 4 patches of 4 = 1 block For 1 block you will need: 4 Red Squares - 8 Green 1/2 square triangles - 8 Red 1/2 square triangles - 8 Woodland 1/2 square triangles Follow the piecing steps in the photos below. Make sure you press down the seams so the connecting one sits neatly. Half Square Triangle: Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the other. Sew 1/4” down each side of that central line. Cut down the central line, iron open the seams flat. Steps 1 - 9 show how to create 1 patch of 4 Top Tip- Finger press the seam on each piece you join together it will make it easier to sew and position the next pieces. Pin every joining seam to get that perfect match! Step 10 - 14 show how to create 4 patches of 4 which when pieced together make the complete block. Repeat until you have all 5 blocks completed. Continue to Piece all 5 blocks together, pin those seams! Press again! I added a 2.5” border all around the outside before adding the Batting and backing. When all together pin or clip to secure the layers and top stitch/quilt to bind the layers. Trim before adding the binding. See my ‘Binding Tutorial’ for all your projects. To see more from Nicola, follow her on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin and don't forget to check out her blog! Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Lucy Picksley Fabric: Kawaii Characters – Star Wars There’s so many character fabrics out there on the market now so it can get a little confusing and somewhat daunting to make a final pick when you have a particular project in mind. The pattern is sat in front of me and I know that it’s ‘the one’, but reimagining the pattern in your fabric selection can be a little tricky. My husband is a huge Star Wars fan as are my other two boys so I knew that if the make didn’t go quite as planned then I could always rip the top up and start again making something else. I’m not gonna lie, the Back to the Future print on offer had huge appeal to me but with a new series of Star Wars - Andor soon to be released I knew that it was more timely to get this make made asap if my husband was to be one of the cool kids! The Liberty Como Collar Shirt had been selected by me as an awesome pattern, ideal because it was designed as a unisex make so if all went well then I would be making myself one too! I loved the relaxed collar on the shirt and that it looked easy to wear and comfy. I felt that the pattern could take a bit of a statement print so settled on the kawaii characters cotton, a cute print of lego look characters all lined up. I measured hubby up and we agreed that I should make the size down to that recommended and that was a good decision. It is a relaxed oversized fit but there’s nothing worse than a garment drowning you rather than you really wearing and showing off your clothing. The pattern was simple in construction. A yolk back with a little tuck, chest pockets to the front panels and inset sleeves. So let’s talk about the sleeves, the actual bane of my life. I don’t know what happened, but I had such a hard time getting those sleeves in. So much so that the shirt was actually completed a few weeks ago but I was so unhappy with the sleeves that I didn’t hand it over until I had meticulously unpicked the overlocked edge and reset them back in. Are they perfect? Are the heck! Are they better? Yes, they are. They are passable and that will just have to do this time around. I’m really pleased with the button stand but again that wasn’t without a traumatic experience. I followed the instructions and sewed the buttonholes as instructed but I really didn’t feel it looked very good, so I carefully unpicked each one and resewed them for an overall better finish. The fabric was so easy to work with and pattern matching was a dream. As I always do, I prewashed the fabric as soon as I received it and ironed it nice and flat. It behaved itself in the most impeccable way, pressed well at each stage and looks fabulous as an overall make. I spent ages carefully pattern matching up each and every element and I’m so pleased that I did. Hubby loves his shirt – here he is modelling off the top which he matched up with a pair of black jeans. He’s working away in his own craft space where he paints miniature models from the Napoleonic era whilst I busy myself away in my sewing studio. As for the pattern itself, I don’t think I will bother using it again. I’ve definitely made other shirts before that had more detail and impact without the unnecessary sleeve dramas to navigate around although there always seems to be something I’m a little unhappy with….Watch what happens when your fabric choice becomes a big fat no no here. To see more from Lucy, follow her on Instagram @sewprettysewmindful, and check out her Youtube channel. Made by Lucy Picksley for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Sarah Holliman aka SJ Stitchery Snuggle up and keep warm with this gorgeous Snoopy Christmas quilt! Quilt size: approx. 38x46 inches You will need: Red Snoopy Fabric – 1m Grey Snoopy Fabric – 1m Plain Green Fabric – 1m Plain White Fabric – 1m 1.5m fabric for quilt backing Quilt batting of your choice (I used Bosal Acadia Autumn 80/20) Rotary cutter and Ruler Quilting Safety Pins/Thread/Needle What better way to keep warm this Winter than with a beautiful homemade quilt. A perfect Christmas gift or a treat for yourself. As soon as I set eyes on this gorgeous Snoopy fabric from Craft Cotton Co., I knew it would make a fabulous quilt. Sometimes, it is difficult to know where to start, but I always take inspiration from the world around us. And here it is ! The shops are full of diamond/harlequin designs at the moment and even in the saddest of times, just look at the beautiful diamond patterned floor of Westminster Abbey. So, to make a quilt in a diamond pattern: 1. Firstly, you will need make lots of Half Square Triangles, precisely 224 in total! Begin by cutting 3.5 inch squares from each of your four fabrics. Place one patterned fabric and one white fabric piece, right sides together. Draw a diagonal line across the back on one of the squares and then sew down either side of the line. With a rotary cutter, trim down the centre line. These will become your Half Square Triangles, always with one half white and the other a patterned fabric. 2. To make each of the diamond squares you will need to join two of the half square triangles together first, making sure that the white fabric triangle is on the outside edge. Press seams flat with an iron. When you have two sets of two blocks, you can then rotate them to become a whole square block. By placing the white triangles on each outside edge of the square block, you will create a diamond shape in the centre of the block. I chose the same patterned fabric for my four triangles in each block so that the diamond remained one colourway, but you could vary them to change the design. 3. Trim your square blocks to 5.5 inches square. 4. Continue to make square blocks in this way until you have enough for your required design. I found the easiest way to do this was to lay the pattern out on a floor and take photos until you are happy with your design layout. For my quilt design I made a total of 56 square blocks, made up of: Red/White Blocks – 19 Grey/White Blocks - 18 Green/White Blocks – 19 5. When you are happy with the layout of your design, you can begin to join the blocks together. I began by sewing my 8 blocks into a strip until I had 7 strips of blocks in total. 6. I then sewed all the blocks together to form my quilt top. Press all seams flat with an iron. 7. I also chose to add a border to my design using the red fabric. Cut 2 inch strips of fabric length and sew them onto the outside edge of the quilt top. Press seams flat. Your quilt top is now complete! 8. Your quilt is ready for basting. Decide on your quilt batting (I used a Bosal Acadia Autumn 80/20). Smooth your quilt top over the batting, taking time to ensure the layers are completely flat and baste or pin into place. 9. Complete the same process with the quilt backing. You should now have your 3 layers of quilt. 10. Quilt in place as you like. 11. When you have completed quilting your quilt, trim the edges of the quilt and remove an excess batting or backing fabric. 12. To make a bias edging for the quilt, I cut length long strips of 2.5 inch wide fabric. Sew strips together and press with an iron and fold to make a bias binding. 13. Sew one fold of the bias binding to the front edges of the quilt, mitring the corners as you go. 14. Fold the bias binding over the edge of the quilt and slip stitch into place. 15. Remove any excess threads and tie any loose ends that are remaining. Your quilt is now complete! To see more from Sarah, follow her on Instagram @sjstitchery. Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Maz Jacobs Fabric: Enchanted Wings by Bethany Salt What You Will Need: Dress Fabric - This will largely depend on the size you are making. I made a size 12 and needed 3.8m of the main fabric for the shorter sleeved dress version. I also chose to make a contrast collar frill in a coordinating fabric. Thread – I’ve used all purpose polyester thread Button – 1cm diameter (I used a 17mm button with no problem) Interfacing – 50x60cm lightweight Bias Binding – 0.6m of 1cm (1/2”) wide bias (although I made my own with the fabric) Elastic - 0.8m of 1cm (½”) wide elastic I’m a huge fan of a big, poufy sleeve, but how can you resist a big, frilly collar to pair with it. I’ve used two fabrics from Bethany Salt’s Enchanted Wings collection to make a real feature of the statement collar in this pattern. I was originally planning the dress with another fabric but when this was suggested to me, it was just too perfect. My daughter’s current ambition in life is to become a bug explorer and sing in the Eurovision Song Contest, so using this fabric was an opportunity to be seen as ‘cool’ in her eyes, and I’m fully aware she’s not going to feel like that about me for very long! I think the only way I could have earned any more ‘cool mum’ points would be to have affixed rhinestones all over it, but I’m quite happy to settle for the way it is! The Enchanted Wings fabric is so much prettier in person, as the blue beetles stand out beautifully against the darker floral background. I wanted to mimic this contrast in the collar, so I chose a blue fabric from the same range that picked out one of the blues of the beetles. By using craft cottons with a collection like this, all the hard work of matching the colours perfectly is done for you. I’m so happy with the choice of fabric as the colours and floral print make it feel quite sophisticated with the fun twist of blue bugs crawling over it when you look more closely. I think the dress is very wearable due to the mix of darker colours and bright pops of blue. It feels like the perfect fabric for changing seasons but will also be great into the colder weather teamed with tights and some layers. For this dress I chose to make a size 12. I did a quick toile of the bodice to check the fit after doing my usual full bust and narrow shoulder adjustments. Sizing-wise everything was as I’d expect and true to the measurements for my size on the packet. After washing and ironing the fabric I was ready and eager to cut it out. This dress has a few extra pieces as that collar takes a little bit of extra work, but wow is it worth it! The instructions contain clear cutting layouts and information about how to sew it as well as clear step by step instructions with line drawn pictures. With this being an indie pattern, the instructions are quite detailed and straightforward. The only closure for this pattern is a button and loop at the back of the neck, so this would be a great pattern for anyone avoiding lots of buttonholes or zips! The pattern walks you through in detail on how to make a little opening at the back of your neck. Making your own Bias Binding for the neckline This pattern calls for 0.6m of 1cm wide bias binding. Although this can be bought ready made in lots of colours, its not always the easiest to find a perfect match to the fabric you are using and therefore making your own in the same fabric can be a great option. As this pattern only uses such a small amount of bias binding it also makes sense to use up those scraps from cutting out the main dress pieces. There is less than a metre of bias to make and that isn’t a lot of effort for a much nicer finish on the neckline. 1. Cut strips of fabric on the bias (diagonally from the grain – 45 degrees) 2 – use a ½” bias making tool – to do this you will poke one end of your bias into the tool until it comes out the other side and the fabric edges fold in on themselves to the middle. Use an iron to follow the fabric strip and iron/press that fold in well. Use lots of steam and a setting as high as the fabric will sensibly allow. 3 – Admire your beautiful bias ready to use on your neckline! Making an elastic button loop closure The pattern instructions explain how to make a button loop in the fabric you are using. This works fine (I’ve used this method on a practice version of the dress) but it is a little bulkier than I’d like. I’ve therefore decided to use an elastic button loop closure. You can use any thin elastics that would easily slide over a button or as I have done here you can use a hair tie. My daughters school hair bobbles/ties were a perfect colour match to the blue beetles and were much smaller rounds than most hair elastics (2cm diameter) . You can see when they are side by side that the hair elastic is slightly slimmer than the pattern piece loop, making it easy to slip under your bias when you are finishing your neckline. If you decide to use elastic in place of a woven button loop, then make the elastic loop a little bit smaller than you would for something that wouldn’t stretch. Its best to test your button out with it. I didn’t cut my hair elastic (to avoid any fraying) and sewed a few reinforcing stitch lines to it to make sure it was very secure under the binding. I have also made a neck bow using the Valeria Vintage Bow Pattern from Violette Field Threads. The pattern is intended as a hair bow but works just as well with the bow threaded onto a longer piece of elastic and tucked under the collar. The bow makes even more of a feature of the frill on the collar and draws your eyes to the matching blue bugs within the pattern on the dress. I found the Bakerloo Dress to be quite a straightforward sew. The only difficulty I had was in trying to avoid the frill being caught at the collar points Tip Baste the collar frill onto one side of the collar carefully (especially at those corners). The next step involves placing the right sides of the collars together and sandwiching the frill in-between them (so you can’t see if you are catching the frill). When you sew towards the corners take your stitching closer to the raw edge (making your seam allowance smaller and smaller as you reach the point), turn the corner and slowly take your seam allowance back to where it should be (when sewing away from the point). This just gives the frill a little bit of extra wiggle room and prevents it getting caught as easily in the seam line stitching. I haven’t noticed those few millimetres of difference in my finished collar! I’m over the moon with my Bakerloo Dress and I think the coordinating cottons work perfectly to make the statement collar really POP. The colours work perfectly for the colder weather coming our way, without having to jump straight into winter darks just yet. Craft cotton is lovely to work with. It’s easy to cut, sew, press and just generally does as it’s told! That makes it such a fun project to sew. I’d fully recommend Nina Lee’s Bakerloo Dress, and there is always the option to make a longer sleeved version and a blouse option too. To see more from Maz, follow her on Instagram @mazzlesmakes and check out her website! Made by Maz Jacobs for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Kerry Bainborrow- Fabric exclusive to Hobbycraft I hope you enjoy making this Santa boot as much as I did. Here are a few notes before you start to help you on your way: All sizes are approximate. My glue gun was my best friend, but be careful not to burn yourself with it. I tried to wear gloves but found that they got in the way too much. Cool melt glue sticks were the best for this project as they cooled down quicker than the hot melt glue sticks so if you did happen to catch your hands it was short lived. Feel free to use your imagination and create your own individual Santa boot or boots, and for some ideas to get you started how about filling them with presents or some artificial Christmas flowers for the side of your fireplace. That all said lets go make boots!… How to make the boots (makes one boot) Materials: Christmas Fat quarter Fat quarter of fur for top of boot Red coloured card (I used a 300gram card) Foam board 5mm thick Oasis or Polystyrene Ball (10cm diameter) Glue gun and sticks Craft knife Sharp scissors Sellotape 3 pieces A4 size Black felt Green and Black Ric Rac trim (half a metre of each) Christmas ribbon for Bow (I used a wire edge ribbon for this) Christmas embellishments to decorate front of boot. 2. Glue the 4 pieces of foam board together. This will make the thick sole of the boot. 3. Cut the oasis or polystyrene ball in half. One half will make the front foot part of the boot. 4. Take your chosen Christmas Fat Quarter and cut into half. Using one quarter of the fabric cover the half ball. Use your glue gun to secure the fabric to the foot part and trim any excess as you go so that the foot sits flat on the sole. 5. Take a sheet of Back felt and glue the already made foam sole onto this felt. Using scissors cut around the sole. Repeat on the other side. 6. Measure the depth of the side bit on your sole and cut lengths of black felt to that width. I used 2 strips of felt which fitted around the side of my sole. Now glue to the sides of the sole. 7. Glue the front part of the boot onto the Black sole. Don’t worry about bits showing as these will be covered up when we come to do the trimmings. 8. Take your Red card and cut to 17” x 11”.Roll up into a tube shape until the diameter of the tube is the same as the heel part on the sole. Using a small piece of Sellotape secure in place. Double check it for size against the sole part and then when your happy using a longer length of Sellotape join the edges to secure. 9. Take the other half of your fat quarter and wrap this around the cardboard leg piece. Measure it for size and cut off any excess. I overlapped mine slightly at the back, and left about 1.5” at the top so that I could tuck into the top of the boot for neatness. When happy use the glue gun to secure the fabric to the boot leg with the join at the back then tuck the excess top fabric into the boot. Now glue the leg part onto the sole. 10. Using the Green Ric Rak and glue gun, attach a strip to the back of the boot leg from top to bottom to cover the join. Trim off excess. 11. Using the Black Ric Rak and glue gun attach this around the side of the sole on top of the Black felt. Trim off excess. 12. Cut a piece of fur 6” tall x the diameter of the top of your boot leg. Glue this around the top of the boot leaving enough to tuck over at the top. 13. Using your Christmas foliage glue this in place to cover the gap between the boot leg and foot. 14. Take your chosen ribbon and tie a large bow. Attach this onto the area where the boot foot piece meets the boot leg piece. This will hide the join. 15. Using your Christmas embellishments glue these into place on the centre of the bow. Voila!! You now have a Santa boot that you can decorate as you please. I hope that you have enjoyed this tutorial and make many more using your own ideas. Don’t forget to share on my Facebook page. To see more from Kerry, follow her Facebook Kerrycrafts! Made by Kerry Bainborrow for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Written by JoAnne Eldred Hello… my name is JoAnne . The reason for the large A in my name is simple I am the only person in my family who doesn’t have a middle name ! So I make the A a capital to make me feel special. So, I started crafting many many moons ago firstly making steam punk jewellery hence the name Jewels Out Of Time I then got into soft furnishings and bag making through Debbie Shore and her amazing templates and patterns. And into Quilting by learning from the amazing Sarah Payne. Then when my youngest son left Junior school a few years ago I wanted something to remind him of his time there so I made my first Bear made from his school jumper, people saw and asked if they could have one too and the Celebration Bear was born. A lady then asked if I could make one from her daughters T shirt who had recently passed away, and I was more than happy to help heal someone’s loss with something so Special a Memory Bear. One commission I did was several Bears for a lady for her children and grandchildren and one of the items was the shirt the gentleman had painted in and it still has paint splashes on it so I used parts of that shirt in each of the Bears meaning each bear whilst being individual also had one special piece for all. I use every part of the clothing I’m given even down to the labels and buttons and now I even make little flat caps and Baker Boy caps for the Bears. Each Bear I make is individual and made with care and Love. During the Lockdown I joined a group FTLOS (For the Love of Scrubs) during our time doing these I found there was loads of scrap material so I offered to make Bears from the scraps so these lovely volunteers had a beautiful little jewel of their time with the group so I made Smaller Bears desk top size and one of the lovely gentleman who looked after the drop boxes named him “Scrubby Bear” and so he was born. I made hundreds of Bears to celebrate the amazing achievements we had all made. Many Bears were auctioned off and donated. I have made and gifted a few Bears for The Crafty Lass to Celebrate her fabulous collection of her own designs and now I have had the pleasure of making this one. Here is Vincent he’s made from the large print from Craft Cotton Company this ones for the National Gallery and it’s titled A Wheatfield, with Cypresses . This piece is one large overall design and a beautiful print, its 100% Organic cotton and the feel is amazing, its “Sew” easy to sew with and the print quality is fantastic, choosing which parts to use was so much fun, I particularly wanted to keep the large Cypress tree so that became his back piece, and I knew the sky would lend itself to his face beautifully. I love the selvedge’s and always try and incorporate them in each design. These ones fitting perfectly on his feet. Thank you for taking time to read my piece and I hope you enjoy the pictures of Vincent! Fabric featured: Vincent van Gogh - Wheatfield with Cypresses To see more from Jo follow her on Instagram @jojewelsoutoftime or Facebook Jewels Out Of Time. Written by JoAnne Eldred for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Kim Hind Fabric: Essential Trends Teal Create a gorgeous cushion cover using a quilting block that is suitably called a cathedral window. This tutorial will show you how to sew the quilting block into a cushion cover, but this technique can be used to make quilts and even bags. For this cushion, I’ve used the Mosaic Essentials Trend 5 fat quarter pack in the colour Teal with a plain white cotton. It is best to use contrasting fabric to get the full effect of this patchwork design if you are using your own fabrics. What you’ll need: 21 x 5” blue squares of fabric. I’ve used a fat quarter pack, so I have 4 of four of the designs and 5 of the other. 20 x 5” white squares of fabric 18” x 21” backing fabric 20” Zip 18” Cushion pad Pins Iron Finished size: 18” square Use a ¼” seam allowance unless stated otherwise 1. Fold 4 white squares in half diagonally with wrong sides together and press. 2. Arrange 4 patterned squares in two rows of 2. Place the plain triangles over the inside corners of each patterned square with raw edges lined. 3. Sew the top two squares right sides together with the two white triangles sandwiched in the middle. Press the seams OPEN. Repeat with the bottom two squares. 4. Sew these two strips right sides together and press the seam open. 5. Place the final blue square centrally over the white triangles. Fold the edges of the white square over the raw edges of the central blue square and pin in place. Make sure to slightly stretch the white fabric over the blue enough to cover the raw edges of the square. 6. Sew in place as close to the edge of the white fold as possible. 7. Repeat these steps three more times with the other squares to create 4 ‘window’ blocks. 8. Arrange the window blocks into one large square. Press the final 4 white squares into triangles and place them in the centre of the square, lining up raw edges as before. 9. Sew the top two blocks right sides together then the bottom two. Press the seams open. 10. Sew the two strips right sides together and press the seams open. Lay the final blue square over the centre of the white triangles. 11. Repeat steps 5 and 6 with the centre of the block. 12. To make the back of the cushion, cut the backing fabric in half widthways. Sew the zip in between the two pieces and top stitch along the bottom side of the zip. 13. Fold the top piece of fabric over the zip, just enough to cover it and press. Sew in place hiding the zip in the stitches. 14. With the zip open, trim away the ends. Hand sew the open end closed. Place right sides together to the cushion front and pin in place. Sew around all four sides and then trim the backing fabric to the same size as the cushion front. 15. Snip the corners (careful not to cut through and stitches) and turn the cushion cover right side out. Insert the cushion pad and you’re done! To see more from Kim, follow her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes, Facebook, and check out her website! Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Kim Hind Fabric: Forest Journal It's the season for quilting, and this fabric is a great choice if you want to cheat at patchwork! The design comes from my organic cotton collection called Forest Journal which will be in stores next week! It is called 'forest patchwork' and has small squares of different hand-drawn designs including toadstools, books and flowers. Patchwork print fabric is great if you want that handmade look but don't want to spend hours sewing small pieces of fabric together. The colours already compliment each other and all you need to do is sew along the joins of the squares to create that quilted effect. I've made a quilted gilet using the kids sewing pattern S9193 by Simplicity. I only used the front and back body pieces but there are options for sleeve ruffles and a stand up collar if you want to get fancy! The gilet fastens with a zip but I decided to use ties for a more organic and rustic look. I didn't follow the instructions for putting this garment together, so here's how I did it instead: I cut the two front pieces and one back piece out of the outer fabric, then lining pieces to match. I used Odif 505 adhesive spray to stick 80/20 wadding to the back of the outer pieces. I cut the wadding back slightly bigger than the pattern pieces to allow for any movement when quilting. To quilt the pieces, I just used a straight stitch and sewed the lines of the squares on the fabric. I trimmed back the wadding to the size of the pattern pieces and once they were quilted. I then used the 505 spray to adhere the lining pieces to the back of the coordinating outer pieces, sandwiching the wadding in the middle. I placed the front two panels over the back piece and went on to sew the side seams and shoulder seams with right sides together. Because this leaves a raw edge inside the jacket, I used a contrasting bias binding to conceal the seams. (Image below shows finished garment, the blue bias binding is the last step). I cut 6 pieces of ribbon that suited the fabric and tacked them evenly to either side of the front of the jacket facing inwards. Finally, I went around all of the raw edges with bias binding, including the arm holes. The arms were quite tricky because of the small opening but doable after a short break and refuel of coffee! Overall, this is a fun make and a very cute layering piece for autumn and winter. The jacket could be even more padded with more layers of wadding and I love the little extras with the pattern such as the ruffles that can be added too. I'll be making a couple of variations of this for my daughter because she loves this gilet so much! To see more from Kim, follow her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes, Facebook and check out her website! Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Michelle Roberts AKA CreativeBlonde This table runner can be adjusted depending on the length of your table, by adding or removing a star block. Size: Approx. 45” x 8” Begin by cutting your fabric pieces to make the stars (8) 2 ½ x 2 ½” squares from star fabric (8) 2 ½ x 2 ½” squares from white/gold fabric (8) 2 ½ x 2 ½” squares from firework fabric (24) 2 ½ x 2 ½” squares from white solid fabric (8) 3” x 3” squares from star fabric (8) 3” x 3” squares from white/gold fabric (8) 3” x 3” squares from fireworks fabric (24) 3” x 3” squares from white solid fabric Let’s start making a star Begin by taking a 3” square in star fabric and lay RST with a 3” white solid piece, mark a line across the diagonal, and sew ¼” either side of the line. Cut along the marked line. Press open, and trim to measure 2 ½” x 2 ½” (making sure the diagonal line is centred) See photos below for step by step instructions We can now begin to construct the star, using our new blocks and the original 2 ½” blocks we cut out. See photos below for placement Continue to make as 6 stars in total. Trim each star block to 8 ¼” square. Join them together using ¼” seam allowance. We can now go ahead and fuse the Vlieseline x50 batting to the top runner, measuring 48” x 10”. Cut your backing to measure 48” x 10”, I chose a solid black fabric. Quilt your table runner, using your preferred method, I chose simple diagonal lines to achieve a patchwork effect. Trim away excess backing fabric and wadding. Join your binding RST to the front edge, and complete the table runner with hand sewn stitches to the reverse. To see more from Michelle, follow her on Instagram @creativeblondegifts, Facebook and don't forget to check out her website! Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.