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Project by Gill Rich You can't have too many tote bags and this one is lovely and roomy. I take it to work and it fits everything in it that I need. You can easily make it in an afternoon. Approximate size 12” x16 ” You will need the following to make your bag: A bundle of fat quarters with five different fabrics. I chose the Abstract Jungle Craft Cotton Co Cutting mat, ruler and rotary cutter. Erasable marker pen Coordinating thread, I used Gutterman Thread Lining fabric (0.5) Wadding. I used Heritage Premium Quilt Wadding mid-weight by the Craft Cotton Co. Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. Firstly, I cut the lining pieces which measured 12.5” x 16.5” I used this to roughly cut the sizes of the strips of fabric. I also drew a diagonal line to opposite corners. 1. To start, cut two strips from each of your five fabrics measuring 2.5 inches wide. 2. Take one of your strips and stitch it to another strip, press your seams open. Using your lining piece as a guide, cut the length to within a couple of inches of the actual size. This allows for trimming when you have finished. Carry on adding your strips until you have completed the top half of the bag front. 3. Next, you need to complete the bottom half. In the same manner, add your first strip along the bottom edge of the first half, ie from top left to bottom right. Carry on adding your strips in the same manner until you have completed the bottom half. I also did some fancy stitching on a couple of the strips in a contrasting colour. 4. Now, repeat this process to make a bag back. Cut two pieces of your wadding the same size as your bag panels and baste one to each bag panel on the wrong side. Stitch the two panels together along the bottom and both sides. 5. To make your bag lining, firstly I put an inside pocket on one lining piece as pockets are always handy! To make your pocket, take one of your abstract print fabrics and cut a piece 8” x 11”. Fold in half right sides together, press and stitch along the three open sides but leave a gap in one side approximately 2” so that you can turn your pocket right side out. Trim off the corners. Turn the right side out and press flat, closing the raw edges inside. Pin to one of the lining pieces and stitch in place. I also stitched from top to bottom about half way across the pocket to make two smaller pockets. 6. Stitch your two lining panels together along the two sides and the bottom. Again you need to leave a turning gap in one of the sides approximately 4”. The top is left open as we will attach it to the bag later. 7. To make the box bottom for both the bag and the lining. With your pieces turned wrong side out, line up the bottom seam with the side seam and lay flat. Measure up from the corner about 4” and draw a line. Stitch along this line then cut off the excess. Repeat for all four corners. 8. To make the handles, cut two pieces of your chosen fabric 4” x 28”. You can make your handles as long or as short as you wish but I found 28” about the right length for me. Fold the pieces in half lengthways and press. Open out then place your raw edges to the centre, on the fold line and press again. Top stitch along both edges on both handles. 9. Measure about 5” in from each side of the bag and pin/baste your handle in place. Make sure that the handle is not twisted when you have sewn both ends on the top of the bag. 10. Turn your lining inside out and your bag right side out. Place the outer bag inside the lining and match up your side seams. Make sure that your handles are tucked down in between the two layers.. Pin your lining to your bag all the way around. Stitch all the way around the top with about ½” seam. Fasten off your ends securely. 11. Turn the bag right side out through the turning gap that was left in the side seam. Roll the seams flat on the top of the bag and pin/press. Top Stitch all the way around. I added a black tassel to one of the bag handles just to finish it off. Your tote bag is now complete so enjoy and show it off to your friends! To see more from Gill follow her on Instagram @designbygill66 or Facebook @designbygill and don't forget to visit her website design-by-gill.co.uk. Made by Gill Rich for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Gill Rich I love a quilted table runner, it sets off your table and can be easily changed for the different seasons throughout the year. Why not give this one a go, it’s fairly easy to make. Approximate size 44” x 12” You Will Need: A bundle of fat quarters with five different fabrics. I chose the Natural Collection from the Craft Cotton Co Cutting mat, ruler and rotary cutter. Coordinating thread, I used Gutterman Thread in light cream Backing fabric (1.5m) Wadding. I used Heritage Premium Quilt Wadding mid-weight by the Craft Cotton Co. Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout Press seams open unless you prefer to press to one side. Firstly you need to cut your fabrics as follows:- From your five fabrics, choose three of your favourites to use in the project. From Fabric A, you need to cut 8 x 4 1/2” squares. You also need to cut two 2 1/2” strips x WOF From Fabric B you need to cut 6 x 41 /2” squares. You also need to cut two 2 1/2” strips x WOF From Fabric C you need to cut three strips 2 1/2” wide by WOF Instructions: To make the four patch squares take one strip each of fabric A and Fabric C and stitch together along the long edge. Press the seams open. Repeat for Fabric B and Fabric C. Taking one of the stitched together strips, measure in 2 ½” and cut through both pieces of fabric. You need 14 of each colour combination. Stitch together one of your Fabric A+C pieces to one of your Fabric B+C pieces to make your four patch square, making sure that they are all the same way. Take all your pieces and lay them out in your preferred way. The eight squares form the middle of the runner and the four patch squares are placed in between so play around until you are happy with the way they look. The half square triangles are then placed between the four patch squares to form your straight edge. Stitch your pieces together in rows. The first row will consist of two squares and one triangle, the second row will be three squares and one triangle, rows 3-6 will be two triangles and three squares, row 7 will be one triangle and three squares and finally two squares and one triangle. Press all your seams open and give the top and good press all over. Cut a piece of your backing fabric and wadding measuring approximately 14” x 46”. Now sandwich your pieces together with your backing fabric on the bottom then your wadding, then your table runner top. Pin them all together using plenty of pins to keep in place. Quilt as desired. I stitched round on the inside of all the squares a top stitch of around ¼” in from each seam. Once you have quilted it, you need to trim the excess backing fabric and wadding. Using your quilting ruler, trim the excess ¼” from the points of the squares to ensure when you stitch on your binding, you do not lose the points on the squares. For your binding cut strips of your chosen fabric 1 ¼” wide. Join your strips together to form one long strip long enough to go all around your table runner. This should be approximately 115“. Fold over ¼” on one long raw edge and press. Pin the other raw edge to your runner ¼” from the edge and stitch in place. Fold over the binding to the back of the runner, pin and slip stitch in place. Give your table runner a good press, place on your table and admire your handiwork! To see more from Gill, follow her on Instagram @designbygill66, Facebook @designbygill or visit her website design-by-gill.co.uk. Made by Gill Rich for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Stephanie Marsh Pattern: You will need: 4 different fat quarters 1 18” zip Matching thread 20” square cushion pad NOTE: ¼” seam allowance used throughout Cut the following As a guide: A blue background B pink background C green window 4th fat quarter is for back Using the “Union Jack Template”, provided by Bonjour Quilts, see attached, cut out enough to make the four corner squares, e.g. 4 central stripes, 8 narrow stripes for each side of A, 8 triangles to make up squares. NOTE: Add a ¼” seam allowance around all pieces. Remember if you are using a fabric with a one way pattern flip the pattern at each section so all pieces are facing the right way up: A central stripe of each corner square B narrow strip each side of A C corner triangles of each square. Also, for centre cross area: A 1 of 18” x 3” 2 of 3” x 8” B 4 of 8” x 2” 4 of 2” x 6.5” Please note the first measurement is the horizontal one, the second the vertical, this is important if using a fabric with a one way pattern. Instructions: 1. To make the 4 corner squares sew the pieces together so they look like the template. Press the seam allowance open. 2. Tidy up the edges to make them square and to remove the small corners, see pic. These squares will be 6.5” square. 3. Take the 4 of 2” x 6.5 strips and sew them to the inside of each of the square as in the pic below. Press the seam allowances open. 4. Take the 4 of 8” x 2” strips and sew them to the top/bottom of the squares as shown below. Press the seam allowances open. 5. Now take the 2 of 3” x 8” strips and join the top 2 square and the bottom 2 squares together in the middle. Press the seam allowances open. 6. Take the 1 of 18” x 3” and join the top to the bottom, as picture below. Press the seam allowances open. Put to one side. 7. To make the back take the remaining fat quarter, cut an 18” square, fold it in half from side to side finger press. Open it up again and cut along that line. On the cut line press under ¼”. 8. Place the fold on each of the pieces against the teeth of the zip. Using a zipper foot stitch close the folded edge, attaching the zip to make the back. 9. Open the zip up to about half way. Place the back and the front together, right sides facing. Stitch all around the four edges, then zigzag to neaten the raw edges. 10. Turn the cushion cover right sides out. Press well and stuff with cushion pad. To see more for Stephanie follow her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh. Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Helen Bowes Not everyone is a tea type of person, perhaps you are more a coffee person? If so, then this tutorial is just for you. Here we look at how to make a warmer for your cafetiere, so your coffee stays hot for longer. Step 1: Assemble equipment To make this tea cosy you will need the following: Patterned fabric for outside – Contrast fabric for lining – Wadding – Heritage quilting wadding Sewing machine and needles Thread – Gutermann Col 800 Buttons Pins or clips Scissors Tape measure Fabric pencil, pen or chalk Iron and Ironing Board And most importantly…… Your cafetiere Step 2: Measure your Cafetiere To ensure the perfect fit you need to measure round the circumference of your cafetiere and the height of your cafetiere at it tallest. My cafetiere was 12” round its widest sections and 6.5” at its tallest. Add an inch into each measurement and draw a rectangle on paper or card. Cut this out to form the template for your cafetiere warmer. Use this to cut out a rectangle of patterned fabric, lining fabric and wadding. Step 3: Make your button loops Ideally you want to cut the fabric on a diagonal to create a strip of bias fabric which will give it a little stretch so it will go over the buttons – this is known as cutting on the bias. Cut your strip 4” wide by 16” long. Once cut, fold in half lengthways so the right sides are facing and sew down the open long end using a 4/8th inch seam allowance. Use pinking scissors to cut the excess fabric away and then turn the fabric the right way round using a safety pin or bodkin. Press flat and cut away excess material at either end. Cut the length in half so you have two pieces around 7” in length. Fold so that you create an arrow shape and sew the head of the arrow down, so it doesn’t open up. Step 5: Get sewing Place the wadding on the bottom with the lining fabric face up on top. Place your button loops at one end facing inwards so the raw edges line up with the raw edge of the lining fabric. You want to position the loops so they will sit inside the handle of your cafetiere. Sew around the outside of your rectangle using a 4/8th inch seam allowance and leaving a 3-inch gap at the short end without button loops. Try and make the corners rounded as you sew. Step 6: Finishing your cafetiere warmer Turn the whole thing the right way round through the gap you have left making sure your corners are all pushed out. Fold the raw edge in and top stitch it down. Continue the top stitch round the whole of your cafetiere warmer. If you want to you can quilt your warmer at this stage or just leave it as it is. To quilt draw diagonal lines perpendicular to each other and sew along these lines. Finally work out the position of your buttons and sew them into place. Step 7: Make a pot of coffee, sit back and enjoy To see more from Helen follow her on Instagram @phoenix_crafting or Facebook @PhoenixCrafting1. Made by Helen Bowes for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Helen Bowes Spring has sprung and summer is on its way. Now is the time for sitting outside with friends enjoying nothing better than a good cup of tea. Make this lovely tea cosy to ensure that your tea stays warm whilst you enjoy the cool spring breeze. Step 1: Assemble equipment To make this tea cosy you will need the following: Patterned fabric for outside – Contrast fabric for lining – Wadding – Heritage quilting wadding Double sided fusible interfacing Ribbon Sewing machine and needles Thread – Gutermann Col 889 Pins or clips Scissors Tape measure Fabric pencil, pen or chalk Iron and Ironing Board And most importantly…… Your teapot Step 2: Measure your Teapot To ensure the perfect fit you need to measure round the widest part of your teapot and the tallest part. Your tape measure needs to wrap all the way round the teapot in both directions as shown in the photos. My teapot was 18” round its widest sections and 15.5” round its tallest section. Step 3: Make your template To create your template, you first need to do a little maths to get the right measurements. Width = (width circumference / 2) +1.5 = (18/2) + 1.5 = 10.5 Height = (height circumference / 2) +1.25 = (15.5/2) + 1.25 = 9 Take a piece of A4 paper and draw a rectangle on it 9” high and 5.25” wide. The width line needs to be half of the width calculated as you will be cutting out on a fold. With this drawn you can now create the shape you want for the cosy. The cut out your template. Step 4: Cut out your fabric pieces. Place your template onto folded pieces of each of your outer fabric, lining fabric and wadding so the fold line matches the fold of the fabric. Cut out two pieces of each outer, lining and wadding. Step 5: Get sewing Lay a piece of the exterior fabric right sides together on top of a piece of lining fabric. Stitch along the bottom straight edge with a 3/8” seam allowance. Repeat for the other pieces of exterior and lining fabrics. Take 3” of ribbon and fold in half. Find the uppermost centre point on one piece of the exterior fabric and pin the ribbon in place so the raw edges of the ribbon match the raw edges of the fabric. This creates your pull loop Attach your wadding to the wrong side of each piece of exterior fabric using double sided interfacing. Next layer your fabric pieces together. Place the fabric piece with ribbon face up on the work top. Lay the other exterior/lining fabric wrong side up so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Make sure your seams for the join between exterior and lining fabrics match up. Pin all around. Once happy with your placement, sew around the fabrics with a 3/8” seam allowance. Remember to backstitch at beginning and end. You don’t want to sew all the way round as otherwise you won’t be able to turn it. Leave a 3” gap in the lining fabric. Step 6: Finishing your tea cosy Turn the whole thing the right way round through the gap you have left. Press everything flat including the seams at the gap making sure they are pressed inwards. Sew the gap closed. Pull the tea cosy open at the base of the exterior fabric and push the lining fabric into the tea cosy. Top stitch around the bottom of the tea cosy to stop the lining fabric coming out completely. Give the whole thing one last press. Step 7: Make a pot of tea and enjoy To see more from Helen follow her on Instagram @phoenix_crafting or Facebook @PhoenixCrafting1. Made by Helen Bowes for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Lesley Connelly This tote bag will keep all your crafty essentials safely together in one place, it also makes it super easy to take your crafty projects along with you. Materials: Craft Cotton Company Fabric: I used 2 fabrics from the Love And Romance Range (1m of each) Batting/wadding (1m) Scissors Needle Thread Ruler Pins/craft clips 1. Cut out your fabrics: Take one of the fabrics which will be the lining and storage pockets and from this cut out: Handle: 1 piece 35x6cm. Storage pockets: 2 pieces 28x32cm. Base: 1 piece 28x21cm. Sides: 2 pieces 21x30cm. Middle divider: 2 pieces 21x25cm. Front and back: 4 pieces 14.5x30cm. The remaining fabric piece will form the outer section of the bag, from this cut out: Handle: 1 piece 35x6cm. Base: 1 piece 28x21cm. Sides: 2 pieces 21x30cm. Front and back: 2 pieces 28x30cm. From the Batting cut out: Handle: 1 piece 35x6cm. Base: 1 piece 28x21cm. Sides: 2 pieces 21x30cm. Middle divider: 1 piece 21x25cm. Front and back: 2 pieces 28x30cm. 2. Making the lining section first: The lining divider piece: Take the batting and two middle divider fabric pieces and place the batting down first then place the two fabric pieces on top with right sides together. Sew along the 21cm top and bottom edges of the divider, leaving the two 25cm sides unsewn. Turn out the right way. The lining: Take 2 of the 4 front and back lining pieces place one down right side up then place the lining divider piece on top with the unsewn 25cm side against the edge of the lining piece and 3cm up from the bottom edge of the lining piece, place the other lining piece on top right side down and sew down the side to secure leaving a 1cm gap at the bottom. Repeat with the remaining 2 front and back lining pieces on the opposite side of the divider piece. Take 1 of the 2 side lining pieces and place right side up, place one of the side edges of the front and back lining pieces right side down on top and sew to secure leaving a 1cm gap at the bottom. Repeat on the other side of the side lining piece the repeat with the other side lining piece on the opposite side of the front and back piece. Take the lining base and pin/clip to the bottom of the joined lining pieces. Sew around to secure. 3. Making the storage pockets: Take the front and back pieces of the outer section fabrics and the 2 pieces of batting and 2 storage pocket pieces from the lining fabric. Take one of the batting pieces and then place the front piece of the outer section on top right side up, take one of the storage pocket pieces and fold in half to give a piece of fabric 28x16cm. Place this folded fabric on top of the front piece and sew lines from the top of the pocket edge to the bottom edge to create the storage sections. Repeat with the back piece. 4. Making the outer bag: Take the front piece, place right side up and place one of the outer side pieces on top, followed by one of the side batting pieces, sew down the side to secure leaving a 1cm gap at the bottom. Repeat with the other side piece on the other side, leaving a 1cm gap at the bottom. Next sew the two sides onto the back piece placing right sides together and sewing down the sides, leaving a 1cm gap at the bottom. Turn the bag out the right way. 5. Making the handle: Take the handle batting piece and place one of the fabric handle pieces on top right side facing up, place the other fabric handle piece on top with right side facing down. Sew down the 2 sides to secure then turn out the right way. 6. Attaching the handle and lining: Place the lining inside the outer bag, fold the top edge of the lining and outer bag inwards by 0.5cm pin/clip to secure. Place the handle in between the lining and outer bag with the mid point of the handle lining up with the mid divider section, pin/clip to secure. Sew around the top edge of the bag to secure. To see more from Lesley, follow her on Instagram @hookstitchsew or visit her website hookstitchsew.com. Made by Lesley Connelly for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Lesley Connelly This make is a perfect room addition for any outer space fans out there. Materials Outer Space fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company. Felt in various colours foe the planets, including yellow (for the sun). A piece of felt for the back of the embroidery hoop. Embroidery threads in various colours (to match the planet felt colours and to add extra details). Needle. Scissors. Pins. Pencil. Embroidery hoop (10 inch size – or smaller/bigger if you prefer). Step 1: Choose one of the fat quarters to be your background. Step 2: Using the different coloured felts, cut out circles of various sizes to form your planets. You will need 8 in total and one large semi circle for the sun. Step 3: Lay out the sun and planets so that they fit within the size of the embroidery hoop circle, pin to secure. Step 4: Sew around the edges of the planets to secure. Step 5: Add extra details to the planets including rings around Saturn and Uranus. Add a meteorite belt between Mars and Jupiter using French Knots. Step 6: Sew the names of the planets around the edge of the hoop. Step 7: Leaving a 5cm strip around the edge of the hoop cut off the remaining excess fabric. Step 8: Sew around 1cm from the edge of the fabric, then pull tight to draw the edge of the fabric in. Step 9: Cut out a circle of felt slightly bigger than the hole in the back, place over the back then slip stitch around the circle to secure. Step 10: Tie a 15cm piece to ribbon/thread around the metal clasp at the top of the embroidery hoop to create a loop. To see more from Lesley follow her on Instagram @hookstitchsew or visit her website hookstitchsew.com. Made by Lesley Connelly for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Katie Done Alfie is two and almost overnight he fell in love with cars. He has at least one car with him at all times. Since we planned a trip away, I have been thinking about some kind of bag I could make for him to carry his cars in and I came up with this. 1/4" seam allowance used throughout. YOU WILL NEED Fat Quarter of Blue Half Metre of Orange Fat Quarter of Track Fabric Rotary cutter and ruler Sewing machine Tailors chalk Iron and ironing board Fabric Scissors Iron on interlining (Bosal) Kam Snaps (3 sets) and tool Method: 1. Cut out your fabric (width x height) Blue 30cm x 35cm Orange 30cm x 35cm Blue 30cm x 15cm Blue 36cm x 20cm Orange 4cm x14cm (x3) Orange 25cm x 9cm Square off your track fat quarter and cut an orange piece the same size. Interlining 25cm x 4cm Interlining 30cm x 35cm 2. With the 3 4cm x14cm orange pieces, fold them in half with right sides together, sew down each side, backstitch at the end. 3. Clip the corners, turn it to the right way and press. 4. With right sides together fold the 25cm x 9cm orange piece in half and place the same sized interfacing over the top and sew the long edge. Turn it to the right way, tuck in the short edges and press. 5. I like to bulk sew as much as possible to save me getting up and down for the iron. So, sew the following Top stitch around all 4 corners of the orange handle, close and even al the way around the edge. Top stitch three sides of the smaller tabs, the raw edge will be hidden. Fold over ¼” and then another ¼” on the bottom edge of the blue 30cm x 15cm. Sew in place, I have used a car stitch on my machine, because when else do you get to use a car stitch?! Fold the blue 36cm x 20cm wrong sides together. Top stitch on the top edge (where the fold is) and stay stitch around the other three sides. This is just a long stitch, close to the edge so it is hidden when you sew it into the bag but will prevent it from moving. 6. On the bottom edge of the 30cm x 35cm orange piece, make a mark every 6cm. 7. The blue pocket is deliberately wider, mark a line down at 7cm intervals, pin at one end to start with. 8. Line up the other blue pocket with the top edge of the orange and top stitch in place. 9. Match up the markings on the blue and orange and pin into place. Sew down the lines you have made and remember to backstitch at the end. 10. Pinch the fabric together, missing the outer edges and pin them into place so that there are no gapes. Top stitch in place. 11. Place the interlining to the wrong side of the blue fabric, iron in place if applicable. Fold the case in half and crease a line into the fabric to mark when the centre is. Place the orange handle in the centre and 2” away from the edge. The handle will not lay flush. Pin into place. 12. Sew each end down. I have done this with a rectangle, around 1” wide and with a cross through the centre. 13. Place the tabs with the raw edges lined up against the edge. One in the centre and the other two around 6cm from the edge. Stay stitch. 14. Add your male Kam snaps to the end of each tab, leave a good 1cm clearing from the end. Make a mark on your fabric where the tabs meet when you fold the case in half. Ensure they are a good 2cm away from the edge to allow for a seam allowance and add the female snaps. 15. Place the two main pieces with right side together. This is the only thing I would do differently. I placed tabs on the side with the big pocket, to avoid the cars falling out when you open it, place them on the side with the smaller car pockets. Pin it in place. 16. Sew around all the 4 edges but leave a 3-4” gap to turn it out through. 17. Clip the corners, turn it out, pushing the corners out and give it a good press. Make sure you don’t press the poppers, especially if they are plastic ones! 18. Top stitch around all the edges to finish. 19. With the orange and track fabric, place them right sides together, sew it all the way around but leave a gap. Clip the corners, bag it out, press and top stitch. I used this as a simple track / play mat to fold and keep in the top pocket. Now you just need to fill it with cars and find a car loving small person to gift it to. I hope you have felt inspired, I would love to hear from you if you give it a go! To see more from Katie follow her on Instagram @thefabricsquirrel or Facebook, and don't forget to visit her blog thefabricsquirrel.com. Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Kimberley Hind This type of applique is called a ‘Dresden Plate’ and has been used in quilting for many years. There are different variations and designs to create using these petal shapes depending on what colour fabric and how many of each shape you choose. This applique can be made into quilting blocks or on their own for cushion covers or bags! In this tutorial, I’ll be explaining how to make a simple cushion cover with the Dresden Plate in the centre and matching piping cord around the edge. The back of the cushion closes with a zip. Fabric featured – Voysey ‘Birds in Nature’ collection from The Craft Cotton Company. This cushion can be made using a 5 fat quarter pack with plenty left over. Finished size 46 x 46cm What you’ll need: Dresden Petal Templates – Download HERE 4cm circle template and a 6cm circle template 4 contrasting fabrics for the flower each measuring approx. 16 x 25cm 46 x 46cm Plain fabric for the background – I’ve used sky blue cotton Approx. 38 x 38cm Scrap fabric (this won’t be seen) 46 x 52cm backing fabric 192cm piping cord 192 x 2cm fabric for piping (you may need to join two pieces) 40cm zip 46 x 46cm cushion pad Seam ripper Pins Hand sewing needle and thread Glue pen (optional) 1cm Seam allowance used unless stated otherwise Print the template to 100% scale and cut out the 2 shapes. Seam allowance of 6mm included. Instructions: 1. Cut the fabric using the templates, I’ve kept the darker print for the three pointed shapes and centre circle, then three lighter prints for the rest of the petals. Cut a 6cm circle from the same fabric as the pointed petals. If your using 3 pointed petals, you’ll need to cut 9 rounded petals from the other fabrics. You could cut more or less pointed petals depending on the design you’d like. TIP - lay your pieces out to see what your design will look like once it’s sewn! 2. Make a running stitch, by hand, around the edge of the circle and pull to gather slightly. 3. Place he 4cm circle template in the middle of the fabric circle and pull the thread to gather the around it. Knot the thread to keep it in place and press. 4. Lay out the petal shapes as in the picture below and sew the fabrics right sides together along the sides to form a circle. 5. Pin the petal pieces face down on a scrap piece of fabric. Sew around the entire edge using a small stitch width of about 2.2. Snip into the ‘V’ shapes between each petal in the seam allowance. 6. Make a small cut in the centre of the scrap side. Turn the petals right side out through the small cut in the scrap fabric and press. 7. Remove the paper from the centre circle and hand sew the circle to the centre of the petals with a slip stitch. Hand sew the petals to the centre of the fabric for the front of the cushion cover. Hand sewing creates an invisible stitch but you could machine stitch if you prefer. 8. To make the piping, Wrap the long strip of fabric around the cord and sew close to the cord. 9. Starting at the centre bottom of the front of the cushion, sew the piping raw edges together, leaving approx. 3cm extra at the start and the end. As you approach the corners, snip into the seam allowance of the piping to allow it to fold around the corners easily. When the two ends meet, trim the piping cord inside the fabric back so that the fabric is 2cm longer than the cord. Cut the opposite end of the piping so that the two ends of the cord meet. Fold the end of the excess fabric over by 1cm, then insert the opposite end of the piping and sew. 10. To make the back, mark the position of the ends of the zip opening on the edge of your fabric, this will be approx. 8cm from each end. Sew the two fabric pieces right sides together, with your regular length at each end and a long stitch in the centre. 11. Press the seam open. Place the zip facing down over the seam and secure with your glue stick, or tack by hand if you prefer. Top stitch around the zip. Use a seam ripper to expose the zip. 12. Pin the back cushion to the front, right sides together, and sew around the entire edge, making sure to leave the zip open! Snip across the corners. 13. Turn right side out and insert the cushion pad to finish. To see more from Kim follow her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes, Facebook or visit her website whatkimberleymakes.com. Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need: 2 fat quarters (different colours) Bondaweb 1M 3mm ribbon Toy stuffing 2 white beads Matching thread (I also used metallic gold thread for the applique) String thread Finished size – 10” x 9” Seam allowance throughout ¼” Instructions: 1. Cut out the following: Main fabric – 1 off 10.5” x 9.5” Contrast/back fabric – 1 off 10.5” x 9.5” Contrast – two mirror imaged doves (see attached), you can download one from the internet or draw one yourself). 2. On the Bondaweb trace the dove images (remember to make them mirror imaged). Roughly cut them on and iron them onto the wrong side of the contrast fat quarters. Neatly cut them out. 3. Using a pin score the backing paper of the Bondaweb and place the letters where you want them to sit. Pin in place and using a steam iron set them in place, lightly first, then remove the pin and press in place. 4. Using a close zig zag stitch or a decorative stitch, stitch all around the letter to permanently fix it in place. 5. Cut the 3mm ribbon in half, then fold in half and place each piece in the bird beak at the centre point of the ribbon, hand or machine sew in place. 6. Take the back piece and with right sides together with the front dove piece sew around all 4 edges, leaving a gap of about 2” for turning, be careful to keep the ribbons out of the way. 7. Trim the corners. 8. Turn the right sides out through the gap. Press. 9. Stuff firmly, just use a small bit at a time, tease the stuffing as you go. Stuff firmly into the corners first. 10. When you have the cushion to the firmness you like, pin and latter stitch the gap closed. 11. Using the strong thread thread a long needle and take the needle from the back, leaving a long tail, to the front through the beak. 12. Thread a bead onto the needle and down the thread onto the doves beak, feed the needle back down to the back, near to where you brought it up. 13. From the back, tie each of the ends together, pulling slightly tight to make an indentation. Tie once again and check secure. Trim ends. 14. Repeat with the other bead/beak. To see more from Stephanie follow her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh. Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Kimberley Hind This wall hanging is sure to put a smile on any cat lovers face! This is a fun way to decorate your home or why not gift it to a fellow cat fanatic. Customise the letters or change the colours of the cat face to honour your own adorable pet! Fabric: Curious Cats Finished size: 48cm x 68cm What you’ll need: 50cm x 50cm Cat print 1 (green) 50cm x 24cm Cat print 2 (pink) 50cm x 80cm plain green fabric for backing and letters 50cm x 70cm wadding (Vlieseline H630) 28cm x 17cm orange fabric 28cm x 14cm brown fabric 10cm x 5cm pink fabric 4cm x 4cm black fabric 6cm x 10cm white fabric 80cm x 25cm fusible adhesive sheet (Vlieseline Bondaweb ) Clips for hanging 58cm of 1cm wide wooden Dowling 85cm string to hang Cat face applique (available from debbieshoresewing.com) Applique alphabet (available from debbieshoresewing.com) 1m seam allowance used unless stated otherwise Instructions: Print the applique templates and cut out each shape. Cut out the letters needed for the wording you choose. 1. Adhere the Bondaweb to the back of a piece of green fabric (enough for each letter used) and to the pieces of fabric used for the cat’s face, following the instructions on the packet. 2. Remove the paper backing from the applique shapes and arrange to the centre of cat fabric 1. Iron in place when happy with placement. 3. Cut the cat fabric 2 in half width ways so each strip measures 50cm x 12cm. Sew the two strips to the top and bottom of the cat face panel. 4. Adhere the wadding to the back of the entire panel. 5. Use a blanket stitch on your sewing machine and carefully sew around each letter and shape to finish. Use a small zigzag stitch in a contrasting colour for the whiskers and mouth of the cat face. TIP- practice the stitches on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing on the main project! This way you can get the hang of using the stitch and make sure you’re happy with the length and width. 6. Place the panel right sides together over a backing piece of fabric and cut to the same size. Sew around the entire edge, leaving a small gap in the bottom for turning. 7. Turn right side out and press. Fold in the raw edges of the turning gap in and press. 8. Top stitch around the entire edge of the panel, making sure to close the turning gap at the same time. 9. Time to hang! Use small clips and a pole to hang in your desired room. To see more from Kim, follow her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes, Facebook What Kimberley Makes and check out her website whatkimberleymakes.com. Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.

Project by Paula Milner- The Crafty Lass Ingredients: Fabric Thread Cushion Inner: This tutorial is for a 45cm x 45cm square cushion Tools: Fabric scissors Pins Needle Measuring tape Iron and ironing board A bright and fun rainbow cushion with added pocket for plenty of books! Snuggle up and get reading. Method: 1. Choose and Measure- Select which fabrics you would like for the main front of the cushion, the pocket and back of the cushion. You could of course use rainbow fabrics – or, mix and match for a clashing/coordinating pattern look – it is completely up to you! Press your fabrics if required. Measure out your fabric. You will need: Cut 10 strips 6.5cm x 47cm for the main cushion front. Cut 10 strips 4.5cm x 47cm for the pocket. Cut 2 pieces 33cm x 47cm for the back of the cushion. 2. Sew Cushion Front Strips- Arrange the order you would like your strips to go in – so for example, this is in a rainbow order. Take the first two of your 6.5cm x 47cm strips and place right sides together. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew together along the long length. Press with an iron if required. 3. Sew Cushion Front Continued- Continue to work across your cushion front, adding the next strip right sides together and sewing along the longer length until complete. 4. Sew Pocket- Repeat as steps 2 and 3 for your narrower 4.5cm x 47cm strips. You might like to keep these in the same order as the main cushion for continuity – or, mix it up! 5. Sew Back Cushion- Take your back cushion pieces and turn over the 47cm edge in by 1cm. Using a 0.5cm seam allowance, sew to secure into place. 6. Construct- Lay your main cushion piece face up before placing your pocket on top – also face up aligning the bottom edges together. Place one of your back cushion pieces on to this right sides down, aligned to the side of your cushion – so that all right sides are together. Repeat with the second back piece aligned to opposite side. Pin into position to secure. 7. Sew- Sew all the way around the edge using a 1cm seam allowance to secure into place, before turning out. Push your corners all the way out and press if required. Insert your cushion inner. Et voila! A rainbow reading cushion… Enjoy! To see more from Paula follow her on Instagram @thecraftylass, Facebook @TheCraftyLass or you can visit her website thecraftylass. Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Co 2022.