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Project by Rebecca Cole The sun is shining, the outdoors is calling, so what is more lovely than some outdoor furnishings in the Garden range of fabrics. This fun cushion uses applique techniques and also turns all those unwanted shirt buttons we all have laying around into something fun and quirky! Time to Make: 1-2 hrs Skill Level: Beginner You Will Need: · In The Garden Cotton metre pieces (x1) and FQ (x2) · 42cm white zip · Vlieseline bondaweb · Lots of old white shirt buttons of different sizes · 1 large white/off white button approx. 3-4cm wide · Sewing machine (that has the ability to free motion sew) · Free motion sewing foot, zipper sewing foot · Brother Scan & Cut (optional) · Black and white sewing thread · Straight pins · Tape measure · Ruler · Fabric Pen · Fabric scissors · Iron · Hand sewing needle · 40cm square cushion pad Method: 1. Select 2 of the fat quarters and cut a 30cm square from each one. Adhere bondaweb to the reverse of each square. Using your Scan & Cut, cut out 6 ellipse shapes, 12cm x 7cm, from each piece of fabric, so that you have 12 in total. 2. Cut out a panel of fabric 82cm x 42cm. Mark the centre and draw a circle 10cm diameter around this central point. Peel off the backing paper from your bondaweb shapes and position them around the circle edge to form petal shapes, overlapping each one all the way around. Adhere them in place with your iron. 3. Set up your sewing machine for free motion sewing by dropping the feed dogs and attaching a free motion foot. Thread up with black thread. Stitch around each petal and also ‘draw’ lines from the centre halfway up each petal to create ‘creases’ in the petals. 4. Separate your old shirt buttons into different sizes. Starting with the smallest ones, start to stitch them in place around the outside of the circle shape that you drew in step 2. You wont be able to see the pen line anymore as it with be hidden underneath the petal shapes but you can still recreate the shape. The buttons will sit over the petal ends. 5. Gradually start to build up the buttons in rings, choosing larger buttons as you get towards the centre. Allow the buttons to overlay each other to create a feeling of fullness and to hide the fabric underneath. Keep stitching until you have about a 2.5cm circle left in the middle. 6. Stitch your large button in the very centre of the flower. The button should sit over the smaller ones. Add a medium sized button on top of the large one for further texture. 7. Place one of the short edges of the cushion fabric face up on the work surface and lay the zip face down along the edge. Pin and stitch in place. Next, turn the cushion fabric over and lay the second short edge face up. Lay the other side of the zip tape face down along the edge. Pin and stitch in place. 8. Turn the fabric round so that you are looking at he right side of the fabric and the front of the zip. Press the fabrics down away from the zipper. Stitch a line of top stitching a few mm away from the zipper teeth to help hold the fabric flat. 9. Turn the loop of fabric round the wrong way so that you are looking at the wrong side of the fabric. Position the fabric so that the zip runs centrally down the middle. There should be a fabric fold approximately 20cm either side of the zip. Pin and stitch along the top and bottom edges, using a 1cm seam allowance. Trim the excess from the corners and, pulling the zip open a little, turn the cushion cover through to the right way. Press the sides and corners to complete. To see more from Rebecca, follow her on Instagram @becky_cole_sews Made by Rebecca Cole for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Katie Done at The Fabric Squirrel The Craft Cotton Company have made another fabulous collaboration, and this time it is with Snoopy by Peanuts! The most recognisable dog whatever your age, who doesn't love a bit of Snoopy? The colours are bright and fun and Snoopy is off on his holiday's. When I was asked to make a quilt to show off the fabric, I didn't want to do anything too busy that would distract from the fun prints so, I have come up with this simple staggered quilt. It is a large quilt that will be the perfect size to share a picnic on the beach on. The pattern is so simple, anyone can give it a go whether you are new to quilting and patchwork or a pro. Finished Size: 48” x 48” Seam Allowance: 1/4" You will need Purple Fabric - 1.5m Blue Fabric - 1/2m Cream Fabric - 1/2m Pink Fabric - 1/2m Green Fabric - 1/2m White Fabric - 1/2m Backing Fabric - Binding - Wadding Sewing Machine Pins Rotary Cutter / Ruler / Cutting Mat Method 1. Cut out fabric as follow: Purple Fabric: 7 - 8.5" Square 1 - 4.5" x 8.5" 1 - 4.5" x 52.5" 3 - 4.5" x 56.75" Blue Fabric: 7 - 8.5" Square 1 - 4.5" x 8.5" Cream Fabric: 6 - 8.5" Square 2 - 4.5" x 8.5" Pink Fabric: 7 - 8.5" Square 1 - 4.5" x 8.5" Green Fabric: 6 - 8.5" Square 1 - 4.5" x 8.5" White Fabric: 2 - 2.5" x 48" 2 - 2.5" x 52.5" 2. Layout out your fabric as per the picture below. 3. Sew the 6 columns together. Press your seams (I have done mine open). 4. Sew your columns together. 5. Add the 2.5" wide white border. Add the sides first, press and then add the top and bottom. 6. Now add the 4.5" purple border. I would usually add the sides and then top and bottom as I have done with the white, but I didn't have wide enough fabric so, I have added them clockwise around the quilt. I have chosen the purple for this part because it is multidirectional. If you are using another fabric collection, this is something to keep in mind when you are selecting your fabrics. Give it a good press. Finish To finish I have used a medium weight cotton based wadding from Bosal. The quilt is wider than a standard cotton bolt width. I had some odd bits of fabric left over from the project so, I pieced some white, blue and cream together. The cream and blue give a seaside feel to it. When layering up a large quilt I use empty fabric rolls to help roll the fabric up and smooth it out as I go. Kids pool noodles work well too. I used curved safety pins to baste it. For the quilting I have gone with wavy sea lines with white Mettler thread. For the binding I have used 2.5" wide plain yellow which picks out the sun in the purple border. I would love to hear from you if you give the pattern a go. For more free tutorials, new fabric arrivals and special offers, make sure you subscribe to my mailing list. www.thefabricsquirrel.com @thefabricsquirrel Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Company 2021 .

Project by Lesley at Hook, Stitch, Sew You can never have too much ice cream, and this ice cream bunting is perfect for bringing some extra summery feeling into your garden. Materials Paper Ruler Scissors Needle Thread Pins Pencil Girls Day Out fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company Method 1- On your paper draw out a circle with a 10cm diameter, and a triangle with a 9cm base and 14cm sides. Cut out to create your templates. 2- Using the templates cut out triangles for the cones (you will need two triangles per cone) and circles for the scoops of ice cream (each cone has three scoops so you will need 3 circles per cone). 3- To make the scoops of ice cream, take the circles and fold in the edge by 0.25cm, sew around with a tacking stitch to secure, pull the thread tight and sew a stitch to secure. Repeat with the remaining circles. 4- To make the cones, take 2 of the cone pieces. Fold the top edges over by 0.5cm and place right sides together, sew down the two sides to secure. Turn out the right way. Slip stitch the top edge closed. 5- Take three of the scoops of ice cream and layout on top of the cone, pin to secure and then sew in place. Repeat with the remaining ice cream cones. 6- To make the binding, cut strips of fabric 5m wide and sew together to make the length of binding required. Next fold in the side edge by 1cm and press, fold in the top and bottom edges so the meet in the middle and press. Finally fold in half again and press. Sew along the bottom edge to secure. 7- Take the ice cream cones and sew onto the binding. To see more from Lesley, visit her on Instagram @hookstitchsew Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Rebecca Cole These beautiful place settings are not only attractive to look at and practical to use, they include quirky designs that will make your dining table unique! Time to Make: 2-3 hrs Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate You Will Need: · Blue floral FQ pack (can’t remember the name!) · Front panel 46cm x 32cm · Back panel 46cm x 32cm (leave slightly larger than these measurements) · 8cm x 1m 65cm binding strip (stitch strips together to achieve desired length) · Fabric pieces to make flower heads, flower centres, and flower pots. · Fabric piece at desired size for napkin (or ready-made napkin if preferred) · Thermolan or similar heat proof wadding 46cm x 32cm (leave slightly larger than these measurements) · Bondaweb · Sewing machine (with ability to drop the feed dogs, also a free motion foot) · Blue ribbon 15mm wide · Dark navy sewing thread · Straight pins · Tape measure · Fabric scissors · Iron · Set of cutlery download template here Method 1. Cut out your fabric pieces and press. Apply bondaweb to the smaller fabric pieces and cut out your flower pots, flower heads, and flower centres. Remove the backing paper from the bondaweb. 2. Draw out an additional ‘pot’ shape and take off 1cm around the sides and base. Cut out the smaller shape and place it centrally on one of the bondaweb pots, lining up the top edge, and very carefully adhere with your iron, taking care not to touch the open sides with the iron. Turn the fabric over to the right side and, using free motion embroidery (lower your feed dogs and attach a free motion foot to your sewing machine), draw a line across the top edge 2-3 times. 3. Position the 3 ‘pot’ shapes onto the top fabric of your mat, with the backed pot to the left-hand side. Line them up off centre towards the left to leave room for the napkin on the right-hand side. Slide a set of cutlery inside the lined pot and pin down the sides. This makes sure that there is enough room in the pot for the cutlery after you have sewn it. 4. Adhere the pots in place (for the lined one thins will only be the sides and bottom edges). Then position your flower heads and centres where you would like them and adhere these also with a hot iron. 5. Cut a length of ribbon approximately 40cm long and position it horizontally across the fabric to the right of the third pot. When you are happy that the centre point of the ribbon is sitting centrally on the fabric, pin in place. Set your machine back up for regular straight stitch sewing and top stitch in place. 6. Cut 8cm strips of fabric and join them together until you have a long enough strip to go all the way around your placemat, approx. 1.65m. Press the strip in half lengthways. Starting halfway down one of the sides, line the raw edges up with the raw edge of the top fabric. Open out the strip fold and fold the corner down diagonally. Start to stitch along the edge until you have gone about 1cm further down than the bottom of the diagonal fold. Lift the needle out of the machine and raise the presser foot so that you can remove the project from the machine. Fold the strip in half again and reinsert into the machine, starting the seam from about where you stopped. Continue all the way down to the first corner. 7. When you reach the corner, stop 5mm from the end and secure with a couple of back stitches. Cut the thread and lift the project out of the machine. Turn the placemat so that the edging you have just stitched is horizontally to the left of you. Lift the strip up away from you, at right angles to the line of stitching you have just sewn, creating a diagonal edge along the corner. Fold the strip back down towards you so that it is running along the next edge of the placemat. Place the fabric back under the machine and start sewing from the top edge along this new side, securing with a couple of back stitches to start. Repeat for the following 3 corners. 8. To finish off the binding, turn the project over and fold the folded edge of the binding over the raw edges. Seam in the ditch to close. When you reach the corners, fold the strip over to form a mitred corner. Stitch in place. If you prefer, you can do this step by hand. 9. Remove the placemat from your machine and trip away any excess backing fabric and thermolan so that these layers sit just a few mm outside of the binding edge. 10. To finish, measure a length of twine at each end (I have used 15cm) and make a loop in the ends ready to be hung. 9. Once the binding is complete, use a fabric pen to draw your flower stems and leaves onto the fabric. Set your machine up for free motion sewing and use it to trace around the flower head and centre shapes, over the marked stems and leaves, and around the pots. Make sure you don’t stitch across the top edge of the far left pot. 10. If you are making your own napkins, cut out a square of fabric to the size you want your napkin to be. Press the corners in diagonally 1cm and then do a small 5mm roll hem all the way around mitring the corners. Press, roll up, and attach to your place setting with the ribbon. Your project is now complete. To see more from Rebecca, visit her on Instagram @becky_cole_sews Made by Rebecca Cole for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Lesley Foster at Hook, Stitch, Sew They might be little large to have a real one in the house, but you can easily fit this super cute whale shark into any room. Materials Blue Essentials Trends fat quarters by The Craft Cotton Company A small piece of fabric from the Pink Essential trends fat quarters range by The Craft Cotton Company Toy stuffing Thread Pins Ruler Pencil Paper Scissors Black wool Needle Method 1. Draw out an outline for a whale shark onto paper. This outline can be as big or as small as you want you final whale shark to be. You will also need to draw out two side fins, two different sized back fins (one large and one small) and an oval mouth. 2. Next cut out the paper templates and cut the body template in half lengthways. 3. Using the blue fabrics cut out the body pieces (4 for the body: 2 upper and 2 lower, 2 for each fin: one upper and one lower) leaving a 0.5cm seam allowance. Use the pink fabric for the oval mouth. 4. Take the 2 fabric pieces that make up one of the side fins and place right sides together and sew around leaving the bottom edge unsewn. Turn out the right way and repeat for the other fin. 5. Take the 2 fabrics pieces which make up the largest back fin place right sides together sew around the sides leaving the bottom edge unsewn. Turn out the right way and repeat for the smaller back fin. 6. Take one of the two upper body pieces and place right side up, take the two back fins and place so that the raw edges of the fins align with the raw edges of the body piece, place the other body piece right side down on top and sew down the side to join. 7. To create the ridge detail fold one side of the body in half and pin, next sew down just slightly from the top of the folded edge, repeat again on the same side by creating another fold between the middle of the body and the newly made ridge. Repeat on the other side of the body. 8. Take the two lower body pieces, place right sides together and sew down the side to join. Place the upper body piece in top of the lower body piece and trim down the lower body piece. Sew around to join leaving the top mouth edge unsewn. 9. Take the pink mouth oval and fold in half long ways and place on top of the sewn together body pieces, cut down to size so it fits the mouth area. 10. Place right sides together with the joined body pieces and sew to secure leaving a 6cm gap for turning. Turn out the right way, place in the toy stuffing and sew the gap closed. 11. Using the black wool sew on two eyes. To see more from Lesley, visit her on Instagram @hookstitchsew Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Creative Blonde Follow this tutorial to make your own nursery pennant flag using the gorgeous Safari Animals fabric from Craft Cotton Co, a beautiful addition to any nursery. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Approx. Finished size of flag 16” x 10” (not including the hanging twine) seam allowance ¼”, RST – Right Sides Together FMQ – Free Motion Quilting Materials 11 ½” x 8” white fabric* Two 2” x 11 ½” vine print fabric* 4 ½” x 11” vine print fabric* 4 ½” x 10 ½” vine print fabric* 20” x 12” Bosal heritage cotton mix batting* 20” x 12” circles nursery print backing fabric* A4 piece of Vlieseline Bondaweb* 11 ½” x 8” piece of Bosal fusible woven cotton interfacing* A4 piece of Green sparkle fabric* Six 2” squares of nursery fabric* 12” length of dowelling ¾” thick* Wording and heart templates* 28” brown twine for hanging* Aurifil thread colour 2845 *All included in the kit. Kits can be purchased from my website www.creativeblonde.co.uk Haberdashery items · Quilter’s ruler, · Rotary cutter/scissors · Iron · Cutting mat · Basic sewing supplies · Clover liner pen · FMQ foot · 505 basting spray Making the flag… Print templates - download here Trace the reverse of the writing onto the paper side of the Vlieseline Bondaweb, a light box can help with this process. Fuse to the wrong side of the green fabric. (removing the centre of the lettering is optional) Carefully cut out and remove backing paper. Fuse to the white piece of fabric. Repeat process for making 6 hearts (fuse to the 2” squares of nursery fabric). Fuse whole piece to the Bosal cotton interfacing. FMQ around all lettering and hearts, using Aurifil thread. Join the two 2” x 11 ½” vine print fabric pieces to either side of the flag, press seams open. Fold the 4 ½” x 11” vine print fabric piece in half (RST), cut a triangle from the bottom point to ½” from the top right corner – shown in photo below. Sew to the base of the flag, press seams open. Trim both side panel widths to 1 ½”. Sew the 4 ½” x 10 ½” vine print fabric piece to the top of the flag, press seams open. Using the flag as a pattern, cut out a backing piece from the 20” x 12” circles nursery print, and one from the 20” x 12” Bosal heritage cotton mix batting. Trim 3/8” from each side of the wadding. Fuse the wadding to the wrong side of the front of flag using 505 basting spray. To secure the wadding in place, sew ¼” around the vine frame (shown below). Place the backing fabric RST and sew around outer edge, leaving a 3” gap for turning. Turn and press, fold in raw edge, and top stitch all the way round. Draw a line 3 ¼” from the top, on the reverse of the banner using the Clover pen. Fold over the hanging piece and hand sew using a ladder stitch, joining the top to the drawn line. Thread dowelling through hanging strip and thread or wrap twine around each end to hang. Your nursery pennant flag is complete, be sure to check out all the other designs available as a pattern and as a kit. www.creativeblonde.co.uk To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric www.visagetextiles.com https://www.facebook.com/craftcottonco Stockist for Aurifil www.aurifil.com/ www.facebook.com/aurifil.quilt.thread Stockist for Bosal wadding and interfacing www.facebook.com/bosalfoamandfibreUK By Michelle Roberts at Creative Blonde for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Rebecca Cole Making things for around the home is not only good for the wallet but also good for the soul! To be able to create things that can brighten up a living space is also a lot of fun! These heart garlands are very fashionable at the moment and can easily add a splash of colour to a space. Time to Make: 2-3 hrs Skill Level: Beginner/Intermediate You Will Need: · Olde World Lilac Cotton FQ pack · Heart template - download here · 2.5cm wide antique lace · 2 x 2.5cm wooden buttons · 14 x 2cm wooden beads · Toy stuffing · Sewing machine · Complimentary sewing thread · Twine · Fabric pen · Ruler · Straight pins · Elastic threader · Tape measure · Hand sewing needle · Fabric scissors · Iron · Electrical tape (optional) Method: 1. Cut out 4 heart shapes from 3 different fabrics (12 in total). On 2 of each set use your fabric marker and ruler to mark the centre line from the inverted point at the top to the point at the bottom. Next draw a perpendicular line across this central line 2.5cm down from the inverted point. Where this horizontal line meets the outside edge of the heart shape, place another mark 0.5mm above the line on both edges. This will mark the channel for the twine. 2. Select one design of fabric and lay the marked heart face up. Cut a length of lace and pin and stitch it horizontally across the front of the heart. 3. Place a corresponding fabric heart face up and lay the lace stitched heart face down on top. Mark a 3-5cm gap down one of the long straight sides. Pin the two layers together and stitch a 1cm seam allowance all the way around, skipping the gap along the side and the two 5mm gaps above the horizontal line. Snip into the inverted point, taking care not to catch the stitches, trim the excess seam allowance from the top curves, and from the point at the bottom, and turn the whole shape through the side gap. Pull out the point with a pin and press the sides. Repeat this with two more heart shapes to create a matching pair. 4. Select another of the fabric hearts and, face up, fold a loop of lace and pin it to the centre of one of the hearts. Position a button centrally on the top and stitch in place. Make up the heart in the same way as the first one, repeating to create a matching pair. You should now have 4 stitched hearts. 5. Repeat this construction process with the final 4 fabric hearts but this time don’t add any embellishment. You should now have 6 stitched hearts ready to be stuffed. 6. Using toy stuffing, a little at a time, stuff each of the hearts until they are nicely plump. 7. Hand stitch the large gaps closed with a neat whip stitch. 8. Cut your length of twine as desired (make sure you have enough to fit all the hearts and beads on and also to make loops at the ends). If preferred you can wrap one end of the twine in electrical tape as this helps to feed the twine through. Feed two wooden beads onto the twine and then select one of your hearts with the lace strip. Thread the twine end through the elastic threader (you may need to press the end flat to do this). Push the elastic threader through on of the holes in the side of the heart and feel your way to passing it back out the other side. This can be a little bit fiddly and don’t worry if the stuffing and seam allowance pops out with the threader. These can easily be pushed neatly back inside. Next, remove the threader again and feed two more wooden beads onto the twine. 9. Repeat this process as follows: 2 beads, lace strip heart, 2 beads, plain heart, 2 beads, button heart, 2 beads, lace strip heart, 2 beads, plain heart, 2 beads, button heart, 2 beads. You should now have 6 hearts and 14 beads on your twine. 10. To finish, measure a length of twine at each end (I have used 15cm) and make a loop in the ends ready to be hung. To see more from Rebecca, visit her on Instagram @becky_cole_sews Made by Rebecca Cole for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Creative Blonde Follow this tutorial to make your own nursery kite using the gorgeous Safari Animals fabrics from Craft Cotton Co, a beautiful addition to any nursery. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Approx. Finished size of kite 16” x 14” (46” length of twine with ribbons) (seam allowance ¼”, RST – Right Sides Together) Materials 18” x 20” animal print fabric* 18” x 20” vine print fabric* 18” x 20” Bosal in R form batting* 18” x 20” paper for creating pattern* 48” grey rope twine (1/4” thick) * Four 7 ½” x 6 ½” rectangles for nursery prints* Aurifil thread colour 2845 Thick thread for gathering the bows 3M clear hooks for hanging the kite *All included in the kit. Kits can be purchased from my website www.creativeblonde.co.uk Haberdashery items · Quilter’s ruler, rotary cutter/scissors · Iron · Cutting mat · Basic sewing supplies · Clover liner pen Making the kite… Create your kite template onto pattern paper, using the instructions below Using the template, cut out a kite from the animal print, vine print and the bosal batting. Using a quilters ruler, remove 3/8” from each side of the bosal kite piece. Fuse the Bosal batting to the centre of wrong side of the animal print fabric. Take the length of rope twine and lay on the right side of kite, with the one end overlapping the outer edge of the bottom point of the kite. Secure in place with a few stitches. Lay the back of the kite on top, RST and sew ¼” along each edge, leaving a 4” gap for turning. Make sure all the twine is trapped inside. Turn and press. Top stitch around edge. Using the Clover pen, mark two lines across the front of the kite, from each point. Sew along the lines. Making the bows… Using the four rectangles, fold each piece in half RST, and sew ¼” around the three sides, leave a 2” gap for turning. Turn, press and top stitch. (tuck raw edge inside). Repeat on all pieces. Using the Clover pen, draw a line down the centre of each rectangle (width). Thread up a length of thick cotton and sew 4-5 large stitches along the line. Leave an equal amount of thread either side of the stitches and pull, secure with a couple of knots to hold the gather. Repeat to create four bows. Using the thick thread, secure at regular intervals along the rope twine. Your nursery kite is complete… lets go fly a kite ! To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric www.visagetextiles.com https://www.facebook.com/craftcottonco Stockist for Aurifil www.aurifil.com/ www.facebook.com/aurifil.quilt.thread Stockist for Bosal Batting www.facebook.com/bosalfoamandfibreUK www.hobbycraft.co.uk/bosal-in_r_form-single_sided-fusible-foam-stabiliser/620499-1000 Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Angela Harkness If like me you can’t resist buying a gardening magazine with those ‘free’ packets of seeds, you may need to make yourself a seed packet organiser to keep them all in one place! Craft Cotton Company supplies: ‘In the Garden’ Fat quarter pack 0.5m Lilac craft cotton Other supplies: Bosal double sided fusible foam Snap fastener kit Cutting Directions: Using your rotary cutter and ruler, cut: Outer fabric (bee hives): 9” x 21” Lining fabric (plant pot shelves): 9” x 21” Pocket 1 fabric (lilac): 9” x 21” Pocket 2 fabric (wellington boots): 6” x 21” Binding fabric (lilac): 2 strips 2.5” x WOF Bosal: 9” x 21” H250 interfacing: 4.5” x 21” and 3” x 21” Method Step 1: Iron the outer and lining fabrics to the fusible foam, being mindful of the fabric direction Step 2: Using a walking foot, quilt the panel as desired Step 3: Fold the first pocket fabric in half lengthwise and press the fold well, open out the fold and then fuse the interfacing to the fabric. Topstitch along the folded edge. Repeat for the second pocket piece. Step 4: Position the first pocket along the bottom edge of the lining fabric; position the second pocket on top of the first making sure the bottom edge is aligned. Clip or pin in place then stay stitch along the raw edges to hold the pocket in place Step 5: On the pocket side, measure 7” in from each end and mark a line from top to bottom with a temporary fabric marker. Stitch along the two marked lines to create the seed packet pockets Step 6: Make the binding by joining the two 2.5” x WOF strips together: -Place one strip on a flat surface with the right-side-up. Place the second strip, right-side down, on top of the first strip at a 90-degree angle -Stitch across the two intersections diagonally from corner to corner -Trim off the excess fabric with a rotary cutter or scissors leaving a seam allowance of ¼” then press the seam open -Fold the binding strip in half along the length to create the double fold binding Step 7: Attach the binding to the panel, mitring each corner as you go. Flip the binding over to the other side of the panel and hand stitch the binding in place Step 8: Attach the two sets of snap fasteners following manufacturer instructions, using the photo as reference for positioning Step 9: Pop your seed packets inside the pockets and you’re all organised! To see more from Angela, visit her on Instagram @angerellas_crafts Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by The Crafty Lass Fun fiesta fabrics to make a table runner for all your celebratory needs! Adapt the measurements to make larger or smaller dependant on your own table requirements. Ingredients: Fabric Thread Pom Pom Trim (Optional) Tools: Tape Measure Fabric scissors Sewing machine Pins Needle Iron and ironing board Method: 1. Choose and Measure Select which fabrics you would like! I have chosen to use two contrasting tapestry fabrics to create a central panel design on the runner - but, you could of course just use one long piece in one fabric design across the entire length. To make as the featured make you will need: 4 pieces 70cm x 42cm (for the outer edges) 2 pieces 50cm x 42cm (for the middle panel) Optionally, you could also add pompom trim at each table runner end, and for this you will need 2 lengths of 45cm. 2. Pin and Sew 1 Put one of your outer edge pieces on to one of your central panel pieces along the 42cm measurement - right sides together and pin into position. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance sew these together and repeat with another of your outer edge pieces on the other side. 3. Pin and Sew 2 Repeat this with your remaining fabric pieces so you have two identical sewn sides. 4. PomPom Trim Take one of your sewn sides and place one length of your pompom trim on to the very edge. Sew on to secure into position. Repeat this on the other end of your runner side. 5. Construct Lay your pompom trimmed side and the other side – right sides together. Pin if liked to secure and make sure your pompom trim is all tucked inside. Using a 1cm sewing allowance, sew all the way around the edge – but, leave a 10-15cm gap for turning out! 6. Turn Out Turn your now constructed table runner out the right way and press if required. 7. Final Sew Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew all the way around the edge to finish. You could use a decorative stitch if desired. Et voila! Pompom trim Fiesta Table Runner… Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com @thecraftylass By Paula Milner at The Crafty Lass for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by The Crafty Lass Fun fiesta fabrics to make table mats to adorn your table and make you feel ready to party! Ingredients: Fabric Thread Pom Pom Trim Tools: Tape Measure Fabric scissors Sewing machine Pins Needle Iron and ironing board Method: 1. Choose and Measure Select which fabrics you would like! I have chosen some finely woven tapestry fabric but, you could use any style or weight of fabric that you wanted to use. For each table mat you will need 2 pieces of fabric 40cm x 50cm and 2 x lengths of pompom trim 45cm. 2. PomPom Trim Take one of your rectangles and right sides up, pin pompom trim along each 40cm height of the mat before sewing into position. 3. Construct Lay your other rectangle on top of your pompom trim sewn piece and pin into position making sure all the pompom trim is tucked inside. Using a 1cm sewing seam allowance, sew all the way around the edge leaving a gap to turn out. 4. Turn Out Turn your now constructed table mat out the right way and press if required. 5. Final Sew Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew all the way around the edge to finish. You could use a decorative stitch if desired. Et voila! Pompom trim Fiesta Table Mat… Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com @thecraftylass Made by Paula Milner at The Crafty Lass for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Paula Milner at The Crafty Lass A practical, wearable project that won’t fail to brighten you day - a fun symbol of love, hope and pride! You Will Need Fabric: Rainbow colour fabrics for the front, fabric for the back, and the inner lining. Ribbon: Around 1cm wide and minimum 3 metres long Thread Tools: Fabric scissors Pins Needle Measuring tape Pencil/Pen Iron and ironing board Large safety pin Method: 1. Choose and Measure For the front rainbow panel you will need the below sized pieces, in rainbow pallette – or whatever colour/patterns you would like! 1 x top piece 36cm x 10cm (Red in the example) 8 x pieces 36cm x 6cm (Orange – Purple in the example) 1 x bottom piece 36cm x 7cm (Pink in the example) 2. Rainbow – Sew Sew your strips together using a 1cm seam allowance lengthwise starting with your 36cm x 10cm top part, then the rest, finishing with the bottom 36cm x 7cm piece. 3. Bag Outer - Marking Turn your now completed sewn rainbow piece over and on the wrong side we will now mark the casing position. On the top ‘Red’ part measure down the side edges by 6cm and 7.5cm from the top and mark these measurements on either side. At the bottom of the bag front also measure up the side edges by 3cm and 4.5cm and mark these points - this will be where the ribbons will later be inserted to form the bag handles. 4. Bag Outer - Sewing Place your rainbow bag front and your back fabric right sides together. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch the side seams from the top edge to the first mark. Backstitch to secure the stitching. Start stitching again at the second mark, leaving the casing section unstitched. Again, backstitch at the start to secure the stitching, then continue towards the bottom of the bag until you meet your first bottom mark. Backstitch to secure the stitching. Start stitching again at the second mark - again, backstitch at the start to secure the stitching, leaving the gap between unstitched. At the bottom of the bag, pivot with the needle down and stitch bottom edge. Pivot again at the second corner then stitch the second side edge as the first, leaving the gap at the bottom and casing section unstitched. 5. Bag Outer – Casing Part 1 To make the first part of the casing, turn under the top ‘Red’ edge enough so that your casing gap will be enclosed and press. Stitch all the way round, just below the open casing gap seam section at the side edges. You will later stitch a parallel row of above the first row to create your channel (see below) but this will happen once the ribbons are inserted and the lining has gone inside. 6. Ribbons Cut your piece of ribbon into two equal lengths. This will need to be just over the same length as the width of the bag + the height of the bag around twice over, around 120cm. Using a safety pin, feed one end of the ribbon through the gap of the casing – push all the way around and out the same side. Then, push both ends of the ribbon through the gap at the bottom of the bag. On the inside, stitch over the gap/ribbons to secure them into place. Feed the second piece of ribbon from the other side edge, again all the way around, and then repeat by pushing through the gap at the bottom of the bag and on the inside, stitch over the gap/ribbons to secure them into place. 7. Inner Lining Place the bag front and back right sides together and, taking a 1cm (½in) seam allowance, stitch the side seams from the top edge to the bottom of the bag. Pivot with the needle down and stitch along the bottom edge. Pivot again at the second corner then stitch up the second side edge as the first. Turn under the top edge so your lining is the same height as your outer and press. Place inside the bag outer and line up the pressed edges together. Pin into position. 8. Casing Part 2 Finally stitch both the outer bag and the inner lining together with a parallel row of stitches above the first row as near to the top of the bag as possible to create your ribbon drawstring channel – ensuring not to trap the ribbons inside! Et voila! A rainbow drawstring… Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Company 2021