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You will need: Fabric – I am using cotton denim 1179 Scissors Zip Lots of pins! Something to measure with (I used a measuring tape) Something to mark fabric (I used tailors chalk) Sewing machine Thread Steps 1. Measure I am working in inches but you can use centimeters if you like. Measure you waist and then divide this by 3.14; this is your waist radius. My waist is 30” so I used 9.5” as my waist radius. Now decide how long you want your skirt to be, I wanted mine to be just above my knees so I chose 20”. Add this to you waist radius, plus 1” of hem allowance, to get your hem radius. Mine was 9.5 + 1 + 20 = 30.5”. Now we need to do our waist band. Decide how wide you want your waist band to be, double this and add 1” for seam allowance. I made my skirt with a 3” wide waist band so my width was 7”. The length will be you waist measurement plus 1” for seam allowance divided by 2 (since we will be cutting on the fold). My waist band measurement was 16” in length. 2. Draw your pattern Fold the fabric in half and from a folded corner, measure and mark out the waist radius moving round in an arc to create a curve. Do this again for the hem radius and then your fabric should look like this. After you have drawn out both arcs your fabric should look like this. Now draw out your waist band. The waistband is simply a rectangle with the width of the wasitband on the fabric fold. 3. Cut out your skirt and waist band 4. Pin and sew the waist band. Pin one of the waist band’s raw edges to the skirt waist raw edge with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Sew the edges together 1/2” away from the raw edge. Pin the remaining raw edge of the waist under and sew to the inside of the skirt waist band. To do this fold the raw edge over 1/2” and pin this to the inside of the skirt using the stitching you have just done as a guide and your waist band should then be at you desired width. Sew using a straight stitch. 5. Hemming Sew a straight stitch ½” away from the raw edge of the skirt, this will be a guide for our hem. Fold the edge over to the line and then fold it over again and pin in place. You should then have a hem which is ½” inches wide. Do this around the entire bottom of the skirt. As the bias of the skirt will vary some parts of the hem will be easier than others. I find it easier to space the pins wide and then work into the sections, eventually you can get the hem to lie flat but it does take a lot of pins! Once you are happy with it you can sew this with a straight stitch. 6. Pick your zip and sew the open edge Fold skirt so the open edges are inline and the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Measure how long the zip against the skirt opening as we will want to sew up to this length. Use pins to secure the fabric and the mark where to stop sewing. Sew along the edge. The seam edges can be finished with an over locker or ironed flat if you want, I left mine raw for this tutorial. ​ 7. Sew in the zip Zips can be fiddly but they are not as scary as they seem. To insert a zip I place the top of my zip in line with the top of my skirt waist band with the right sides facing each other. I then roll them over and open them so that the right sides are facing out and pin in place. Do this around the whole of the zip and then sew around the zip with a straight stitch (a zip foot makes this process a lot easier!). Trim of any excess fabric from the zip. Ta-da... your skirt is complete! Tutorial by Sheridan Smith for the Craft Cotton Co 2017 #freesewingtutorials #sewing #skirt #dressmaking #denim

With spring finally here and the promise of nice weather approaching, it's made me think about my wardrobe. I’m sure we all have a few old t-shirts that we could give a new lease of life. When I saw the Craft Cotton Co’s chambray fat quarter pack they shouted out for this project. Chambray denim is so easy to wear and looks fresh and crisp. This fat quarter pack goes so far for making stylish pockets for your t shirts. There will be plenty of fabric left over to make up many more projects. Let’s start. You will need. Fat quarter pack - I chose the chambray selection. T Shirt/top Sewing machine and thread or a needle and thread Pocket template Scissors Chalk pencil/fabric marker Iron and an ironing board Pins Step 1 Find a T-shirt/Top that screams for an update Step 2 Pick a fabric that you love and trace the pocket pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric using a chalk pencil or other fabric marker of your choice Step 3 Cut out your pocket with scissors Step 4 Fold over the top edge of the pocket by 1cm and press with the iron. Step 5 Top stitch in a matching or contrasting fabric close to the folded edge. Step 6 Fold over the remaining 4 sides under by 1cm Step 7 Place your pocket on to your T-shirt/top in the area you want and pin in place Step 8 Sew in place using your sewing machine or needle and thread moving the pins as you go. Leave the top edge open. When sewing sew close to the edge to ensure you capture the underlying raw edge. Step 9 Trim any excess threads and give your pocket a final press so it is crisp and flat. Step 10 Do a happy dance you have finished your T-shirt/Top wear with your favourite jeans and enjoy your me made look! This would be a great gift idea by buying low cost t shirts and gifting to loved ones for birthdays and Christmas. It also is a great stash buster for using up all your pretty scraps. Have fun and come up with your own pocket shapes. Why not have a heart pocket? Hope you enjoyed this project Love Carrie x Tag me in your makes on Instagram @carrie_can_make_it #carriesprojects Made by Carrie Marshall for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #tshirt #upcycle #fatquarter #fatquarters #pocket #dressmaking #freesewingtutorial

Make a simple young girl’s skirt that any fairy princess would be proud to wear. Time it takes to make: 3-4 Hours Skill level : Beginner/Intermediate You will need: 1Mtr (1 ⅛th yds) of fabric. 65cms (¾yd) of 25mm (1”) wide elastic. Scissors Matching thread. Pins, Safety pin or Bodkins Sewing machine Step-by-step instructions: All seams are 1.5cms or 5/8” Before you start your project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. It is always a good idea to wash your fabric before you begin work to eliminate any possibility of shrinkage at a later date. Iron your fabric with a suitable temperature to ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make. Step 1 This skirt is made up of just 4 pieces, two skirt panels and two waistband pieces. You don’t need to make a pattern just use the measurements below, I have used a pattern for visualisation purposes. Fold you fabric right sides together, you can either make a pattern out of grease-proof paper or just draw on the fabric with either tailors chalk or an air erasable pen. ​ Step 2 The Back measures 32.5cms x 35.5cms mark a notch at the top 16cms from the left side and one 15cms up from the hem also on the left side. Mark 2 notches on the right hand side, 9cms from the top and 17cms from the bottom. Place this on the straight of the grain (an even distance from the selvedge {edge} or a straight thread) and cut two. The Front measures exactly the same but this is placed on the fold of the fabric. Mark a notch at the top 16cms from the left side and two further notches one 9cms from the top and one 17cms from the bottom, again on the left hand side.The waistband pieces are both cut on the fold. The Back waistband measures 30.5cms wide and 9.5cms deep. Mark a notch at the top 16.5cms from the right side and another 3cms from the bottom, again on the right. The Front waistband is slightly longer at 32.5cms but the same depth of 9.5cms. Again mark two notches one at the top 16.5cms from the left side and another 3cms from the bottom. Carefully cut out the four pieces. On both waistbands mark the position for two tailors tacks (small circles) 2cms and 4.5cms down from the top at the side seam. Step 3 With right sides together match the Centre Back notches and pin the CB seam, tack if required. Sew the seam, remove the pins as you approach them, remembering to back tack at the start and end of the seam. Press the seam open and neaten either with a zig zag stitch, overlocking stitch or overlocker. Step 4 Matching the notches, stitch the front of the skirt to the back at the side seams, neaten the raw seam and press to the back of the skirt. Step 5 Make the tailors tacks on the waistband where the small dots are. To do this take a double thread, make two loose stitches in the shape of a X, forming a loop through both fabric layers and pattern, if you used one, leaving long ends. Step 6 Snip the thread between the fabric layers leaving tufts. Cut the loop to remove the pattern. Step 7 With right sides together and matching notches, stitch front and back waistbands together at the side seams, leaving an opening between the small dots at the RIGHT side only. Press both these seams in the same direction. Step 8 Press under 1.5cms on the long unnotched edge of the waistband. Trim to 6mm Step 9 Turn the skirt inside out, pin the WRONG side of the skirt to the RIGHT of the waistband, matching the notches, centres and side seams. Pin, tack if required and stitch. Step 10 Trim the seam. Press towards the waistband. Turn to the right side. Pin and tack the pressed edge over the seam, matching the centres. Stitch close to the edge, then stich close to the upper edge of the waistband. Step 11 Cut a piece of elastic to fit the waist measurement plus 2.5cms. Insert the elastic with the use of a safety pin or bodkin. Step 12 Pull the safety pin or bodkin through the casing, pin the ends of the elastic together. Try on the skirt and adjust to fit, stitch the ends of the elastic securely together. Slip stitch opening closed. Secure the elastic so it won’t twist in wearing by stitching through all thicknesses of casing at the seams. Step 13 Hem the skirt by pressing up 5cms to the inside, tuck under the raw edge to meet the crease. Press, pin and tack. Stitch in place. Give the skirt a final press and its ready for your little princess. Made by Bernadette Wainwright for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 Find her on Instagram @bernie_sew_whats_new #girls #skirt #dressmaking #kids #clothes #freesewingtutorial #aliceinwonderland

I made shorts on another blog and I thought it would be really cool to applique a plain T-Shirt with a design representing the fabric. I chose an anchor as the fabric range I used is very nautical. Time it takes to make: 1-2 Hours Skill level : Beginner/Intermediate You will need: A Plain Purchased T-Shirt Scraps of fabric, I used bits from the New England Fat Quarter Pack Approx. 5”x5” Design to trace or Brother ScanNCut Fusible Web/Bonding Agent for the Applique Stitch and Tear Temporary Stabilizer Thread Embroidery/Darning Foot Sewing machine Step-by-step instructions: Before you start your project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. It is always a good idea to wash your fabric before you begin work to eliminate any possibility of shrinkage at a later date. Iron your fabric with a suitable temperature to ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make. Step 1 Select your fabrics for your appliqued design from your fabric stash. Roughly cut to size. Step 2 Following the manufacture’s instructions fuse the bonding agent or web onto the wrong side of your scrap of fabric. Normally this is done with an iron. This is double faced adhesive and later will be ironed into position Step 3 If cutting with scissors, draw the design onto the wrong side of the fabric/fusible web remembering to mirror the design if you wish to use any words. Cut out the applique along the design lines and then remove the paper backing. Position right side up on the front of the T-shirt. Step 4 If using the ScanNCut, make sure the high-tack adhesive fabric support sheet is attached to the standard mat. Remove the paper backing from the bonding agent and place the fabric on the mat fabric face down, using the spatula to remove any wrinkles. Several pieces of fabric can be placed around the mat at the same time if you wish to add other colours to your applique. Step 5 Scan the mat and select the desired designs from those already loaded on the machine or one which has been downloaded. I chose one already loaded on the Brother ScanNCut, the anchor, AR-G008 which picked up the design from several of the fabrics within the New England Range. Increase the size to 5” high and 4.38” wide. Step 6 Carry out a test cut to ensure that the correct pressure and blade setting are selected. Generally on a craft cotton with fusible web applied a cut pressure of 3 and a blade setting of 4 is used but each machine will have slight variances, so always carry out a test piece. Cut out all the elements of the design. Step 7 Once cut, position right side up on the front of the T-shirt. When you are happy with the positioning, iron in place, bonding your fabrics with the front of the T-shirt. Step 8 Position Stitch and Tear stabilizer behind the background fabric, this will help to keep the work stable while you are stitching. As the name suggests, you will tear this away when you have finished or you can leave in place for additional body. Pin in place. Step 9 For free machine embroidery, loosen the thumbscrew and remove the presser foot holder with foot attached. Attach the embroidery or darning foot to your machine and tighten the thumbscrew firmly with the screwdriver. Lower the feed dogs before you start sewing. Practice on some scrap fabric as this technique can be quite tricky at first but once you’ve mastered it your only limit is your imagination. Step 10 When stitching you can use thread which blends with the fabric or make a feature by using vivid colours, shiny rayons or metallic threads which can look very effective and give a further dimension. Sew round your design several times as this adds further interest and covers up any wobbly stitching! Step 11 Now, if you have chosen to do so, tear away the Stitch and Tear from the inside of the T-shirt. Step 12 When you have finished your applique remove the embroidery foot, attach the presser foot holder and then the normal utility foot. Raise the feed dogs, these will not physically raise until you start sewing again so don’t panic if you don’t see them come up straight away. It is always best to do this after you have finished your project and then when you start sewing at a later date you don’t think there is a problem with your machine. Congratulations! Your T-shirt is now finished. Made by Bernadette Wainwright for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 Find her on Instagram @bernie_sew_whats_new #dressmaking #kids #fatquarter #freesewingtutorial

Fabric Requirements: 13 assorted Fat Quarters for quilt top (Craft Cotton: Yarn Dyed, Check Jacquard and Yarn Stripe) 4 Metres (44" wide) Fabric for backing 250" binding 60" x 60" Batting Finished quilt measures 54" x 57" 1/4" seam allowances unless otherwise stated RST - Right sides together This colouring diagram has been added to help you with the layout of your quilt. Instructions: To begin press all fat quarters to iron out any creases and folds. From each fat quarter cut 14 3.5" x 6.5" rectangles. You should have 182 rectangles in total. (there will be a few left over once your quilt top is complete, I used them for the binding to add to the scrappy look) Once you are happy with the layout of your quilt arrange your blocks in rows of 19. Sew each rectangle with RST along the 6.5" edge using 1/4" seam allowance pressing each seam as you go. Once you have assembled all 9 rows, sew each row together vertically pinning at each seam to allow rectangle points to match. Finishing the quilt: Make a quilt sandwich by layering you backing fabric, batting and quilt top together, baste and quilt as desired. Trim the excess batting and backing level with your quilt top to square the quilt. To make the binding, cuts strips of fabric 2.5" wide, join each strip in a diagonal line and press seams open, fold the binding in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press, sew the binding to the quilt top folding a mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and handstitch or machine sew in place to finish. Your quilt is now complete! By Joanne Hart for the Craft Cotton Company 2017 Follow her on Instagram @unicornharts #quilt #patchwork #fatquarters #binding #quilting #sewing #freesewingtutorial

Finished quilt measures 56" x 60" For beginner Foundation Paper Piecers, please see our "Introduction to Foundation Paper Piecing" to help get you started Fabric Requirements: Fabric A (white) - 2 Metres Fabric B (Pink) - 1 3/4 Metres Fabric C (Yellow) - 1 3/4 Metres 4 Metres (44" wide) Fabric for backing 250" binding 70" x 70" Batting 1/4" seam allowances unless otherwise stated WOF - Width of fabric Colouring page: This colouring diagram has been added to help you with the layout of your quilt. Cutting Instructions: From Fabric A (white) cut strips 4.5" x WOF and subcut strips 4.5" x 14" From Fabric B (Pink) cut alternating strips of 2" x WOF and 2.5" x WOF and subcut strips 2" x 8.5" and 2.5" x 14" From Fabric C (yellow) cut strips of 5" x WOF and subcut strips 5" x 10" . the excess from this fabric will fit the second yellow section of your templates A5/B5 Piecing Instructions: Each block consists of: 2 x template A, and 2 x template B You will need 12 blocks for the entire quilt Once all of your templates have been constructed, sew sections A and B together Sew AB sections together to complete the block. Repeat with all 12 blocks. Sew Blocks in rows of 4. Sew all 3 rows together. It should look like this... Finishing the quilt: Make a quilt sandwich by layering you backing fabric, batting and quilt top together, baste and quilt as desired. Trim the excess batting and backing level with your quilt top to square the quilt. To make the binding, cuts strips of fabric 2.5" wide, join each strip in a diagonal line and press seams open, fold the binding in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press, sew the binding to the quilt top folding a mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and handstitch or machine sew in place to finish. Your quilt is now complete! By Joanne Hart for the Craft Cotton Company 2018 Follow her on Instagram @unicornharts #miniquilt #quilting #epp #freesewingtutorial

Fabric Requirements : 25 assorted Fat Quarters for quilt top (you will have left over fabric to add to your stash) 1.25 Metres (44" wide) Fabric for backing 180" binding 42" x 42" Batting Finished quilt measures 40" x 40" 1/4" seam allowances unless otherwise stated RST - Right sides together This colouring diagram has been added to help you with the layout of your quilt. Instructions Step 1 From each fat quarter cut 3, 6.5inch squares Step 2 Sub-cut into triangles Step 3 - Match each triangle with an opposite colour and sew with RST using 1/4inch seam allowance. Step 4 - Cut Squares in half again. Step 5 - Match each triangle with an opposite colour, lining up and pinning at the centre seam (so your points match), sew with RST using 1/4inch seam allowance. Step 6 - Trim the block to 5.5inch. Step 7 - Repeat with the remaining squares until you have 64 squares. Step 8 - Once you are happy with your layout, sew your blocks together in rows of 8, and sew all 8 rows together. Finishing the quilt Make a quilt sandwich by layering you backing fabric, batting and quilt top together, baste and quilt as desired. Trim the excess batting and backing level with your quilt top to square the quilt. to make the binding, cuts strips of fabric 2.5" wide, join each strip in a diagonal line and press seams open, fold the binding in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press, sew the binding to the quilt top folding a mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and handstitch or machine sew in place to finish. To see more of Jo's work, follow her on Instagram and Facebook. By Joanne Hart for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #quilt #patchwork #fabric #essentialtrends #fatquarters #freesewingtutorial

Materials used: 1 New England Jelly Roll. Two Half Metres of Navy and Red Plain Dyed Fabric. 1 Metre of contrasting Fabric to Back & Wadding. Cut 6 x 2.5’’ strips from contrasting plain dyed fabrics (Selvedge to selvedge) Join 3 strips together as above and below. Iron seams flat. R/S together sew down both long sides creating a tube effect. Using your cutting mat and quilt ruler cut on a 45 degree angle to create square blocks, iron flat. Place square blocks in desired pattern. Then add strips to border the centre. Arrange as desired. Iron seams down flat. Add the Wadding and backing fabric. Quilt all layers, I used a free motion sewing foot. Now to bind the quilt. I used 2” Bias Binding R/S to R/S down the edge of the quilt, sew in the first crease. When you get to the corners sew to the edge at a 45 Degree angle. Turn the quilt ready to sew along the next side, fold the bias binding over to the left to create a nice neat seam. When you get back to the beginning join the two strips of bias binding as below. Fold bias binding over I then like to hand sew it down. Your quilt is now complete! Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #quilt #nautical #jellyroll #fabricstrips #quilting #freesewingtutorial

1) Choose 4 fabrics and cut 25 x 5.5 in squares and layout as desired. 2) Sew the top 2 squares together, the bottom 2 squares together and then sew the top row to the bottom row to make a block of 4. TIP: Press your seams to one side for the top 2 and the other side for the bottom 2. This helps them nestle together nicely when sewing the top row to the bottom row. Do this with all sets of 4 to give you 25 blocks. 3) You now need to cut each block of 4, 4 times. Place your quilting ruler so that the inch line is on a seam then cut this line, repeat this for all seams. 4) Your block will now look like this. 5) Swap the top left and top right squares over, swap the bottom left and bottom right squares over and then turn the centre square anticlockwise by one turn. Your block will now look like this. 6) Now sew the top row together, the middle row together and the bottom row together. 7) Now sew the top row to the middle row, then sew these to the bottom row to make you final block. 8) Once you have completed all 25 blocks, sew them in 5 rows of 5 and then join together. 9) Now you are ready to back and bind your quilt. 10) Finished quilt is shown here. By Alison Seymour for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 Visit her Facebook page here #quilt #quilting #freesewingtutorial #fatquarters

I think there's something about a simple patchwork quilt that has a wonderful charm about it, you get that real handmade vibe. This cozy quilt will be great for winter. Fabric Requirements: 18 assorted Fat Qaurters for quilt top 4 Metres (44" wide) Fabric for backing 260" binding 65" x 65" Batting Finished quilt measures 60" x 60" 1/4" seam allowances unless otherwise stated RST - Right sides together This colouring diagram has been added to help you with the layout of your quilt. Instructions To begin, press all fat quarters to iron out any creases and folds. From each fat quarter cut 2 10.5" x 10.5" squares. You should have 36 squares in total. Once you are happy with the layout of your quilt arrange your blocks in rows of 6. Sew each square with RST using 1/4" seam allowance pressing each seam as you go. Once you have assembled all 6 rows, sew each row together pinning at each seam to allow square points to match.s Finishing the quilt: Make a quilt sandwich by layering you backing fabric, batting and quilt top together, baste and quilt as desired. Trim the excess batting and backing level with your quilt top to square the quilt. to make the binding, cuts strips of fabric 2.5" wide, join each strip in a diagonal line and press seams open, fold the binding in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press, sew the binding to the quilt top folding a mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and handstitch or machine sew in place to finish. Follow Joanne on Instagram @unicornharts Made by Joanne Hart for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #patchwork #quilt #quilting #freesewingtutorial #tartan

This Christmas present pattern quilt is perfect for keeping warm over the festive season. Materials Essential trends fabric in red and green by the Craft Cotton Company - 4 different reds – 1m x 0.5m in each. - 5 different greens - 1m x 0.5m in each White fabric – 1m x1.30m Batting - 1m x 1.10m Thread Needle Scissors Paper Ruler Pencil Pins Step 1 Make your paper templates: Cut out a square measuring 10x10 cm this is the main block piece for the quilt. Cut out another square which is 10x10cm then divide this square into 4, then divide two of the squares diagonally so these two squares consist of two triangles, cut along the lines to make the bow detail block piece Step 2 Cut out the fabrics: Using the main block piece and leaving a 0.5cm seam allowance cut out: 73 block pieces from the different green fabrics. 16 block pieces from the different red fabrics. 9 block pieces from the white fabrics. Using the bow detail block piece and leaving a 0.5cm seam allowance: 2 small squares from one of the green fabrics. 2 triangles from one of the green fabrics. 2 triangles from one of the white fabrics.​ Step 3 Making the bow detail block piece: Take the pieces of fabric which were cut for the bow detail block. Start with the two green squares and place right sides together, sew down the side seam then fold out and press. Next take two of the triangle pieces which make up one of the smaller squares and placing right sides together sew down the long edge, fold out and press. Repeat with the other two triangle pieces which will give you two squares. Next sew these two blocks together by placing right sides together and sewing down the side. Take the two sets of two squares and place right sides together and sew along the top edge to join. Fold out and press. Step 4 Sewing the quilt front together: Sew together the main block pieces row by row following the present pattern. Once all rows have been sewn, sew together the rows to complete the quilt top. Step 5 Adding quilted detail: Layout the batting and place the quilt top on top. Pin to secure then add quilting detail by sewing lines 1cm either side of the block join seams of the present. Step 6 Adding the binding: Make the binding with 8cm wide strips of fabric. The binding will need to be 4.20m long. Once made diagonally fold over the starting end and press. Next fold the strip in half along the long edge pressing as you go. Once you have made the binding place the raw edge of the binding against the raw edge of the quilt and pin to secure then sew 0.5 cm from the raw edge all the way around the quilt to attach the binding. Next fold the binding over to the back of the quilt pin to secure then slip stitch around the edge to secure. Your quilt is now complete! Made by Lesley Foster at Hook, Stitch, Sew for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #christmas #seasonal #quilt #fatquarters #essentialtrends #freesewingtutorial #patchwork

Follow my tutorial, on how to make your very own ‘Countdown to Christmas wall hanging quilt’. These gorgeous tartan Christmas fabrics are all available from ‘Craft Cotton’, and also available to purchase in Fat Quarter packs at Hobbycraft Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size: 12” x 18” plus drawstring bag to hold the spare numbers Materials Main quilt and numbers • FQ of Christmas red/black tartan fabric • FQ of Christmas red/black hearts on grey fabric • FQ of white poly cotton • 12” x 18” piece of Bosal Fusible batting • Two 6” squares Bosal Fusible batting • Two 6” squares of red/black tartan fabric • Gutermann white thread 1001 • FQ of Vlieseline Bondaweb • 64” natural linen bias binding • 10” of velcro • 8” ‘deck the halls’ ribbon Drawstring bag • Two 7” x 5 ½” red/black tartan fabric (lining) • Two 7” x 6” red/black hearts on grey fabric (outer) • Two pieces of 16” x ¼” white ribbon • 6” ‘deck the halls’ ribbon Haberdashery items • Iron-away marker pen • Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors • Iron • Cutting mat • Basic sewing supplies • **‘Countdown’ Templates • 505 basting spray or pins **templates can be made by typing the letters Days till Christmas in font Cooper Black, size 200 into Microsoft Word. Type the numbers 0,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 using the same font and size – print Making the Countdown Quilt Begin by cutting all the pieces of fabric: 18” x 8” white fabric Two 18” x 2 ½” strips from the heart fabric – fussy cut, so the hearts sit central 18” x 12” red tartan fabric (backing) Let’s Begin… Print off the templates and trace the letters and numbers through to the other side of the paper, so you have them in reverse. Trace these onto the Bondaweb, roughly cut out and fuse using a dry heat to the red tartan fabric (not the backing piece). Carefully cut around each letter and number, peel the backing papers from the letters and place on the white fabric, once happy with the positioning of the letters, fuse using a dry heat. Cut two 2” strips of the rough side of the Velcro, place on the white fabric and draw around them with the heat erasable fabric pen, sew in place. With RST sew the grey heart strips to the top and bottom of the white centre piece. Fuse to the batting, repeat for the backing fabric using basting spray Swap out your machine foot for a FMQ foot. Sew 1/8” from raw edge around each letter using Gutermann white thread. Cut two strips from the ribbon, each measuring 4”, fold in half and pin 2 ½” from each top corner. Add the bias binding to the front, and hand sew to the reverse. Creating neat corners as you sew. Leave a 3” piece from the bottom left hand edge unsewn, this will be where the bag will hang from. Fuse the two pieces of batting to the two pieces of red/black fabric, using a heat erasable fabric pen, draw around each of the previously cut numbers. Carefully cut around each number. Cut the soft side of the Velco, into thirteen ½” pieces, sew each piece to the right side of the numbers (the numbers with the batting attached, not the Bondaweb numbers) Peel away the backing papers and fuse each number to its corresponding number. Using a FMQ foot on your machine, sew around each number 1/8” from the raw edge, trim away any excess. Let’s create the drawstring bag… Take the bag pieces of fabric, and mark 1 ½” down for each top corner. Sew the lining pieces together with right sides facing from this mark all the way round to the other mark, repeat with the two outer pieces. Press seams open. Sew the folded edge from the top to the 1 ½” mark. Place the lining piece inside the outer piece, with wrong sides facing. Match and pin side seams. Fold over ½, press and fold a further ½” over, press and sew. Thread the ribbon through the gap you’ve created all the way around, then repeat with the other piece of ribbon, started at the opposite side. Tie the two ends together with a small knot. To attach the bag to the quilt, pin the raw end of the ribbon, 1 ½” from the bottom left hand corner on the reverse of the quilt where you left it unsewn and sew in place, complete the binding on the quilt. Unpick a couple of stitches from the bag top seam, push the other end of the ribbon, and replace the stitches, making sure to go over a few of the remaining stitches where you have unpicked. Your countdown Christmas quilt is complete… This Countdown Christmas Quilt and tutorial has been designed and created by Michelle at creativeblonde. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/creativeblonde66 and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for the fabrics and wadding found in this tutorial www.craftcotton.com 0161 832 9431 Stockist for Gutermann threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 Stockist for Vlieseline stabilizer and Vlieseline Bondaweb www.ladysewandsew.co.uk 01628 890 532 Stockist for Christmas Ribbon www.facebook.com/GrovesLtd Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #christmas #seasonal #tartan #kids #fatquarters #freesewingtutorial