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For an 18” cushion pad I make a 16” cover, this allows it to look full and plump. You will need per cushion: 3 FQ in chosen colours 3 contrasting buttons/kam snaps 60cm 1 – 1.5cm wide ribbon matching thread 1 cushion pad Optional: items for applique, such as temporary spray glue/Bondaweb, fabric scraps Step 1 For the front cut 1 fat quarter 16.5” square (for this you will use a ¼” seam allowance), for pocket cut an oblong 16.5” x 9” in another fat quarter (please note if you have a pattern with a nap the long edges are the tip and the bottom of the pocket), for the back cut 2 of 16.5” x 9” in another fat quarter. Step 2 At this stage you can apply any decoration to the pocket that you with, such as appliqueing their name or embroidery. When appliqueing I use bondaweb or spray temporary glue then I use a zig-zag or decorative stitch around the edges of the shape, you could always try free-motion embroidery. Step 3 Take the pocket and back pieces and press to the wrong side on one of the long edges ¼” then ½” and stitch in place. Press well. Step 4 Place the decorated pocket on the front of the cushion cover front, wrong side (pocket) to right side (cushion front), tack in place. Step 5 Take the back and lay the hemmed edges over each other and pin/tack in place. Step 6 Please the backs and fronts together, right sides facing. Stitch all around, trim away the bulkiness of the corners and neaten all edges together. Step 7 Unpick all tacking and turn right sides out. Give the cover a good press. Step 8 Attach Kam snap/button/ribbons to fasten back closed. Place cushion pad inside. Step 9 You can also add a carry handle, do this by taking a strip of fabric (to the length you want) x 2.5” fold in half lengthways, sew ¼” in from the raw edge, turn right sides out and press. Please on top seam in-between the front and back and sew in place. Step 10 For a bow make strip as above 3” long and place as a loop in between the carry handle. Make the bow by taking fabric 21” x 6”, fold in half-length ways and sew around all the edges, leaving a 2” gap for turning. Trim seam allowance and corners, turn to right sides out, ladder stitch gap closed and press well. Feed bow through loop and arrange to look like a bow. To hold bow in place hand stitch in place on back of loop. Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #cushion #kids #home #freesewingtutorial #minniemouse #winniethepooh

Craft Cotton Company Sew Beautiful set of Fat Quarters & Turquoise Plain Dyed Cotton Step 1 Cut 1 12.5” x 17” Cut 1 5” x 17” Cut 2 3” x 17” Plain Dyed Turquoise Step 2 Create a Scallop Template, put the two pieces of fabric R/S together, draw round the on the W/S of the fabric. Pin to secure. Sew on the lines of the scallops. Cut close to the stitching without cutting through it, and make little slits at the points TOP TIP: (yellow arrow) as you reach the top of the point, turn and do 1 stitch across before turning to go back down. Step 3 Using double sided fusible, draw around the letters required and bond to the fabric. Peel off the backing and then bond onto the cushion. Sew round each letter. Step 4 R/S together attach the scallop to the bottom of the top part of the cushion. Sew along (Red Line) Iron flat then sew the bottom part of the cushion on. I used a 17” cushion inner. The back is Envelope style. Follow Nicola on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin for more crafty makes. Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #scallop #cushions #sew #fatquarters #freesewingtutorial #home

As a beginner sewer I thought this project would be quite challenging, but even though it was quite time consuming, the end result made it all worthwhile! A rookie mistake I made was not drawing out and planning how to cushion would look once its complete, if I had done this I would of seen that the middle of the cushion should've been a 5th pinwheel! Either way I'm happy with the result and proud to have learnt a new technique. Here's how I did it- What you'll need: 20” x 20” Pinwheel backing fabric [green leaves] 20” x 20” Contrasting fabric for the pinwheel [pink spot] 40” x 30” Contrasting fabric for the overlapping pieces [multi floral] 18” x 22” Fabric for the back of the cushion [green leaves 18" zip 17” square cushion pad Step 1 Cut out 5" squares in all three fabrics - 16 of the pinwheel colour, 16 backing colour and 48 overlapping colour. Step 2 Fold your pinwheel fabric in half and press. Do the same with the overlapping fabric. Step 3 Roll the folded edge back to create an arc and press. This will create the illusion of a curved edge. Do this with the pinwheel fabric and the overlapping fabric that you've just pressed. Step 4 Place the curved triangle over the right side square, lining at the edges. Step 5 Place the first overlapping triangle over the pinwheel triangle at a 90 degree angle. Step 6 Place the third overlapping triangle over the second again, at a 90 degree angle, then repeat with the final overlapping triangle, tucking one side under the pinwheel triangle. Pin or clip all 4 corners in place so they don't move, make sure they all line up with the backing square. (Be sure to follow this same rotating pattern for each square, I only realised when putting all the blocks together some were going clockwise and others anti clockwise! Again, a rookie error followed by a lot of unpicking...) Step 7 Sew all the way around the square keeping as close to the edge as you can. Step 8 Repeat these steps until you have 16 complete squares. Step 9 Lay out your pieces before sewing together so that you have the correct pattern. Once they are in order you can start to sew them together. Sew two blocks right sides together, matching points. Repeat with the second pair, then sew the four small blocks together. When you have four large blocks, sew these right sides together in the same way. Step 10 For the back of your cushion, sew your zip face down to the right side of the longer piece of backing fabric, along one short edge. Your zip will be a little too long, but this makes it easier to sew as you can move the slider out of the way. Trim your zip to size after sewing it in. Step 11 Fold the fabric back and press, top stitch along the zip if you like. To create the hidden zip, fold the remaining piece of fabric over, wrong sides together, by 1” and press. Open out the fold, sew the raw edge to the opposite side of the zip. Allow the fold to cover the zip, then top stitch along the zip tape and over the ends of the zip. Step 12 Sew the back of the cushion to the front by placing right sides together and sew around the edge, using a 1/4" seam allowance. Trim away the backing fabric if necessary, cut across the corners and turn the right side out. Insert your cushion pad. Voila! Kimberley used 'Vintage Splendour' Fat Quarter Pack from The Craft Cotton Company. To see more from Kimberley, check out her blog! #shabbychic #fatquarters #pinwheel #cushion #freesewingtutorial #home

This is a quick and easy method to make this lovely Union Jack cushion cover! You can use scrap pieces of fabric in whichever colour and print you want and fray the edges to create the 'shabby' look. I used a triple straight stitch to make them stand out but this is optional, you can use any stitch you like! Hope you enjoy making this as much as I did :) What you'll need: · 16” x 11” cushion pad · 40” x 24” pink spot fabric · 18” x 8” yellow floral fabric · 22” x 8” blue floral fabric · 22” x 4” pink floral fabric · Basting spray (505 spray is perfect) · Nail brush Cut: · 1 rectangle of pink spot fabric measuring 17” x 12” For the cushion front. · 2 rectangles of pink spot fabric measuring 22” x 12” for the envelope back of the cushion · 1 strip of yellow floral fabric measuring 18” x 4” · 1 strip of yellow floral fabric measuring 13” x 4” · 2 strips of blue floral fabric measuring 22” x 4” · 4 strips of pink floral fabric measuring 11” x 2” Step 1 Arrange the fabric strips over the top of the spot fabric in the Union Jack shape. Tear the edges of the pieces if you want a frayed effect, or wait until the cushion is made and go over the edges with a nail brush. Step 2 Secure your blue floral fabric strips in a cross shape with 505 spray. Secure the pink floral strips over the top slightly to one side. Sew in place with a triple straight stitch. Step 3 Place the yellow floral strips on top of the cross and sew in place using the same stitch as step 2. If you'd like to fray the edges more, use the nail brush on them until you have the desired effect. Front Back Kimberley used 'Vintage Splendour' Fat Quarter Pack from The Craft Cotton Company. To see more from Kimberley, check out her blog! #fatquarters #home #cushion #unionjack #shabbychic #freesewingtutorial

Follow my tutorial, on how to make your very own ‘Monochrome Zoo Quilt’ These super cute fabrics are available from ‘Craft Cotton’. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size: 42” x 43” (perfect cot/playmat size) Materials to make this quilt • FQ bundle of ‘Monochrome zoo’ fabrics • FQ of pink with white ‘v’ print • 1 metre of blue with white ‘v’ print • 1 metre of black blender • 1 metre of black with white ‘v’ print • 44” square of Craft cotton heritage wadding • FQ of H250 fusible interfacing by vlieseline • FQ of bondaweb by vlieseline • Gutermann thread, colours 1001, 372, 1292 Haberdashery items • Iron-away marker pen, dark and white • Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors • Iron • Cutting mat • Basic sewing supplies • Balloon template • Pins, or basting spray 505 Making the centre panel… Step 1: Cutting • Cut two 8 ½” squares from the H250 interfacing • Cut one 8 ½” square from blue fabric • Cut one 8 ½” square from pink fabric • Cut two 12” x 34” piece from the black blender • Roughly cut around 12 zoo animals Fuse the pink and blue squares to each piece of the H250 interfacing. Use the Balloon template, draw around it 6 times of each piece, using the dark erasable marker pen. Step 2 Fuse the zoo animals onto the Bondaweb, and carefully cut out leaving about 3/8” of the white background. Step 3 Arrange the zoo animals onto the black panel, once you’re happy with the placement, pin the balloons and fuse the animals in place. Step 4 Using the white fabric marker, add the string detail from the balloon to the animal hands or mouth, use the dark marker pen to add the bow details on the balloon. Free motion quilt around each balloon, animals and sew over the pen marks. Step 5 Trim panel to measure 12” x 33” Step 6 - Making the blocks … Make 12 blocks, 4 of each of the three designs. Design One: Cloud fabric: 7 ½” x 11 5/8” Zoo animal circles fabric: 4 ½” x 6 1/8” Black with white ‘v’ fabric: 4 ½” x 6 1/8” Press seams towards darker fabric Make 4 of these blocks Design Two: Cloud fabric: 2 1/8” x 4 ¼” Zoo animal circles fabric: 9 ½” x 11 5/8” Black with white ‘v’ fabric: 2 1/8” x 4 ¼” Elephant print fabric: 2 1/8” x 4 ¼” Press seams towards darker fabric Make 4 of these blocks Design Three Black with white ‘v’ fabric: 11 3/8” x 6 1/8” Elephant fabric: 11 3/8” x 6 1/8” Press seams towards darker fabric Make 4 of these blocks Step 7 Join 1 of each design together to create a row of 3, nest seams where the seams join, make two of these rows. Step 8 Using the remaining blocks, create two further rows. Step 9 Take one of each row designs, and join to the ‘Balloon’ panel, using ¼” seam allowance - see photo below for placement. Step 10 Trim main block if needed. Cut two strips from the black blender fabric measuring 2 ¼” x 34 ½” and sew to the two shorter sides of the quilt, then cut two strips measuring 2 ¼” x 36 ½” and sew to the remaining sides. From the pink fabric, cut two strips measuring ¾” x 36 ½”, and two strips measuring ¾” x 37 ½”. Fold in half along the width (wrong sides together) and press. Using 1/8” tacking stitch, join the folded pink strips to the quilt. Step 11 Cut 2 ½” strips from the black fabric with white ‘v’ print, and join to make your strips long enough using the bias binding method, lay your strips RST, and draw a diagonal line, and sew along this line, trim away the excess - see photos Step 12 Press and attach to the main quilt, using a scant ¼” over the top of the pink strip. Stop and restart at each corner. This is the top quilt complete. Baste your top quilt to the craft cotton heritage wadding, using basting spray 505, or pins. Step 13 Making the back … Take the remaining black panel and sew it between the two rows of blocks. Trim this block to measure 33” width x 34” length. Step 14 From the blue fabric; cut two strips measuring 33” x 8”, sew to the sides of the quilt cut two strips measuring 48” x 8”, sew to the top and bottom of the quilt. Baste the top quilt to the backing – making sure it is central (the backing quilt will be larger) Step 15 Using a mixture of the two fabric markers, draw around the balloon templates on the top quilt, in various places. Using the Gutermann blue or pink thread, free motion quilt along these marks, adding the string details like before (sew through all layers of the quilt). Free motion quilt around the blue balloons in the centre panel and add string details (go over previous lines) Step 16 Fold back the blue fabric, and trim the top quilt and wadding, so the black boarder measures 2”. Trim the blue fabric to sit 3 ½” wider than the top quilt. Fold and press over ½” of the raw edge of the blue fabric. Step 17 Fold blue fabric over, to overlap the black fabric by ¼”, pin in place. Create neat corners, by removing excess fabric. Sew in place. Press and your monochrome zoo quilt is complete. This ‘Monochrome Zoo Quilt’ and tutorial has been created by me - creativeblonde. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/creativeblonde66 and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for the fabrics found in this tutorial www.craftcotton.com 0161 832 9431 Stockist for Gutermann threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 Stockist for Vlieseline interfacing and Vlieseline Bondaweb www.ladysewandsew.co.uk 01628 890 532 Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #quilt #quilting #fatquarters #applique #freesewingtutorial

Make these super cool boys shorts, with a simple elasticated waist. Easy to make and easy to wear. Time it takes to make: 1-2 Hours Skill level : Beginner/Intermediate You will need: 2 x Fat Quarter Pieces 75cms (30”) of 2cm (¾”) wide elastic Scissors Matching thread Pins, Safety pin or Bodkins Sewing machine Step-by-step instructions: All seams are 5/8” or 1.5cms unless otherwise stated. Before you start your project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. It is always a good idea to wash your fabric before you begin work to eliminate any possibility of shrinkage at a later date. Iron your fabric with a suitable temperature to ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make. Mark notches 3½” 9cms down on the crotch seam Place the 2 fat quarters right sides together and cut out all the pieces as measures and quantities above. Step 1 With the right sides together using a 5/8” (1.5cms) seam, pin, tack if desired and sew the right front to the right back at the side seam. Press the seam towards the back, neaten with either a zig-zag or overcast stitch or an overlocker if you have one. Press the seams towards the back. Repeat for the left shorts, front and back. Step 2 With right sides together , pin inner leg seam of both right and left shorts sections, tack if desired, stitch, neaten and press as above. Step 3 Turn left shorts section right side out and place inside right section with right sides together. Pin the crotch seam matching notches and inner leg seams. Step 4 Stitch, stitch again slightly inside the seam allowance to strengthen the seam or neaten with an overlocker. If you do not have an overlocker, trim along the curve to ¼” (0.6mm) and neaten as above. Press Step 5 Turn shorts right side out. Step 6 With right sides together, stitch front and back waistbands together at the side seams, leaving a 1¼” (3cm) opening in the seam at the top of the right side only. Neaten the seams, press open. Step 7 Press under 5/8” (1.5cms) at the top of the waistband. Trim to ¼” (0.6mm). Turn the shorts right side out, pin the waistband in place, right sides together. Sew, layer the seam. Step 8 Press the seam towards the waistband Step 9 Turn to the wrong side, pin and tack the pressed edge over the seam, matching centres. Stitch close to the edge, then stitch close to the upper edge of the waistband. Step 10 Cut a piece of elastic to fit the waist measurement plus 1” (2.5cms). Insert the elastic with the use of a safety pin or bodkin. Step 11 Pull the safety pin/bodkin through the casing, pin the ends of the elastic together. Tack. Try on the shorts and adjust to fit. Stitch the ends of the elastic securely together. Slip stitch the opening closed. Secure the elastic so it won’t twist in wearing by stitching through all thicknesses of casing at the seams. Step 12 Turn up the hem ¼” (0.6mm), press. Turn up again by the same amount , press. Topstitch in place. Congratulations! Your shorts are now finished. Made by Bernadette Wainwright for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 Find her on Instagram @bernie_sew_whats_new #dressmaking #kids #shorts #nautical #fatquarter #freesewingtutorial

I'm so excited to write about this top because I just love it! This was an idea that formed in my head but I had no idea if it would work or not so I am so pleased that it did. This top was another creation inspired by a top that I saw on the high street. I then drafted a pattern to re-create it and I'll admit that there were a lot of incredibly frustrating parts to this project as always with a self-drafted pattern, however I'm really pleased I resisted the temptation to give up on it because the end result is just what I was hoping for. I love being able to recreate items of clothing that I see and drafting my own patterns is definitely something that I enjoy and that I'd like to continue doing in 2019. The top that I was inspired by for this project was this one. I really liked the idea of making a shirt out of jersey, definitely not the kind of fabric usually used for a shirt. I received this lovely cotton jersey from Craft Cotton Co and the shirt just seemed like the perfect thing to make out of it! The fabric was much more light weight than I was anticipating which meant that I wasn't able to make what I had initially planned, however it is perfect for making t-shirts in. It's a lovely shade of grey too. When it came to drafting the pattern, it definitely wasn't easy! The collar in particular was really difficult as I wasn't sure how deep the curve should be. After making the collar I did nearly give up: it wasn't at all wide enough to go around the neck of my dress-form and it just wasn't lying flat. In the end, I actually rolled the collar to the inside about a cm and pinned it down to see if it would work; and it did! To keep the collar lying flat I added a few stitches along the edge. I'm so pleased with how well this worked as I really wasn't sure it would. This was definitely a project that I disliked making at the time of making but love it so much now that it's finished! I decided early on that there was no way I was going to be sewing buttonholes into this fabric. Sewing buttonholes into any knit fabric is hard but with a jersey that was this light-weight would have been nigh on impossible! The buttons are actually sewn through both layers, and the fabric is stretchy enough that I can easily put on the top without the need for buttonholes. I left one button at the top sewn into only the left side to make it look more genuine. I'm so happy with how this method work, I think I'll definitely do it again! The buttons that I used I believe were taken off of an old shirt that belonged to my Dad, the matching set was perfect for this project. I really like the look of lots of small buttons along the front of this top. When it came to the hem I was once again worried about the weight of the fabric as sewing a normal hem would have probably resulted in it turning up constantly. Again, this was an easy solve and I sewed a lettuce hem along the sleeves and hem. Not only does it mean that the hem will stay in place, I also really like the look of it. A double-win! A final detail that I added was this snippet of orange that I added in the back. I love adding labels to my makes and this stunning cotton cord that my Mum bought from Petit Pan was just perfect. The orange adds such a lovely splash of colour and it makes me smile every time I put this top on. Being able to re-create a top and draft your own design is, in my opinion, something really special. I love the style of this top but I also love the fabric that I drafted it. I know it is going to get a lot of wear! Made by Anna at Let's Get Sewing for The Craft Cotton Company 2019 #jersey #dressmaking #top #shirt #freesewingtutorial

Have your own personal Hot Water Bottle Cover, great for gifting during the cold Winter months. What you will need: 1 - Fat Quarter for outer fabric 1 - Fat Quarter for lining 2 - pieces of Bosal Poly therm fleece 11” x 15” 8 - 5mm eyelets Ribbon or cord Step 1. From your outer fabric fat quarter, cut 2 pieces of fabric measuring 11” x 15”, place these on top of your poly therm fleece panels with the fluffy side facing up and quilt the two layers together using your preferred method. Once this is done, trim each outer panel to 10” x 14” Step 2. Place both outer panels on top of each other with right sides together. Pin and sew around using ¼” seam allowances leaving the top edge open. Turn right side out. Step 3. From your lining fabric fat quarter, cut 2 pieces of fabric measuring 10” x 14.5” and repeat step 2 but this time leaving a 3” gap at the bottom. Step 4. Place your outer cover inside your lining with right sides together. Pin and sew all the way around the top edge. Step 5. Turn your cover right side out using the 3” gap you left in the bottom of the lining and sew the gap closed. Step 6. The lining will be slightly longer than the outer cover so it will create a decorative edge at top. ( if you do not want this edge, cut your lining panels the same size as your outer panels.) Press and topstitch all the way around to hold the fabric in place. Step 7. Eyelet placement: Measure down 2” from the top edge and 1.5” from the side and mark your first dot, measure across again 2” at a time to mark the last 3 dots and make your holes repeat on the other side and Install you eyelets using the manufacturer’s guidelines. Step 8. To finish, feed your ribbon/cord through the eyelets and tie in a bow at the front. Your Hot Water Bottle is now ready to use! Made by Joanne Hart at @unicornharts for The Craft Cotton Company 2019 #hotwaterbottle #winter #fatquarters #home #accessories #freesewingtutorial

You will need One set of Fat Quarters Fusible Web Step 1 Choose a fabric for the heart. Make a template and put on the fold of the fabric, draw round. Step 2 When you unfold. it will be one large heart. Step 3 The next two fabrics will be cut into a 17.5’’ Square then cut diagonally through both pieces. Step 4 Join them together with a ¼’’ seam on the diagonal, then press open. Lay the half hearts as shown above. Pin and sew around the heart. Step 5 Write YOU & ME on the fusible web, then iron on to another of the fabrics. *Tip remember to have the letters the correct way round for when you iron onto the wrong side of the fabric! Step 6 Place the letters and iron them, then sew around individually. Step 7 With 2 more fabrics from the set I cut them in half horizontally and used them to create an envelope style back. Your cushions are now complete! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and it has inspired you to have a go yourself! I would love hear your feedback and see your creations, please share with me on Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2019 #valentines #valentinesday #cushions #home #valentines #freesewingtutorial #fatquarters

What you will need: Sewing machine with matching threads Half a yard of Miffy fabric. A bib template or use an old favourite bib as a template as I did. Velcro strips or dots. I have used a quarter inch sewing seam. Making The Bib: Place your bib template onto the fabric and cut out two bib shapes. (If you are not using an old favourite, there are lots of templates you could use on the internet). Next place the Velcro pads onto the fabrics, line these up to make sure that you have placed them on the correct side of the fabrics. Sew in place. Next pin or clip the bib sides, right sides together; ensure you leave a gap at the bottom for turning. Sew these together then before turning to the right sides out, clip the curves. Turn to bib to the right sides out and press, then top stitch around the bib, this will not only give it a professional finished look, it will also sew the gap at the bottom up too. Your bibs are now complete! Made by Sally Mitton at sallyssewingroom.blogspot.com for The Craft Cotton Company 2019 #baby #bibs #kids #miffy #easy #fatquarter #freesewingtutorial

Follow my tutorial, on how to make a crib size quilt, perfect as a gift for anyone expecting a baby in the new year. These adorable Winnie The Pooh licenced print fabrics are all available from ‘Craft Cotton’. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size: 30” x 40” Materials • 1 FQ white poly cotton • 1 FQ winnie the pooh on white • 1 FQ winnie the pooh circles on yellow • 2 FQ winnie the pooh and friends on yellow • 2 FQ winnie the pooh and friends on white • 4 FQ winnie the pooh and friends on mint • FQ pack of the grey nursery basics • FQ of H250 iron-on stabilizer by vlieseline • 30” x 40” Craftcotton Heritage premium quilt wadding • Gutermann thread; white 1001, purple varigated thread • FQ of vlieseline bondaweb • Vlieseline Stitch ‘n’ tear pre-pack Haberdashery items • Iron-away marker pen • Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors • Iron • Cutting mat • Basic sewing supplies • Winnie the pooh ‘quote templates’ • Heart template • Sulky transfer pen Download template here Making the quilt… Begin by cutting two 8 ½” squares from the solid white. Print off the two Winnie The Pooh quotes, and using the sulky transfer pen, go over the writing on the reverse of the paper (this will give you the letters in reverse). Press the white fabric, then lay the writing over the top, lay a scrap piece of fabric over the top and press until the writing has transferred to the white fabric (keep these papers, as they can be used a few more times). Pin an 8 ½” square of stitch ‘n’ tear to the back. Thread up your needle, so its double thread, and back stitch with tiny stitches over the writing. Cut the following pieces: • Two 8 ½” squares from the Winnie the Pooh and friends on yellow • Two horizontal panels 9 ½” x 30” from the Winnie the Pooh and friends on mint • Two vertical panels 22” x 4 ½” from the Winnie the Pooh only on white • Two 2 ½” x 8 ½” strips from the grey fabric with white waves • One 2 ½” x 18 ½” strips from the grey fabric with white waves • Two 2 ½” x 18” strips from the grey fabric with white waves • Two 2 ½” x 22 ½” strips from the grey fabric with white ‘v’s ** ** If cutting this piece from a FQ, cut four 11 ¼” x 2 ½” strips, and join, pressing seams open Sew the 4 centre panels together, by adding the grey strips with white waves in between them. Press the seams in opposite directions on the top panel to the bottom panel, so you can nest the seams together. Trim this block to measure an 18” square. Add the top and bottom strips, then continue by adding the side strips. * To make the hearts, cut: • Two grey hearts (with white waves) from ‘heart template’ - fuse to Bondaweb • Two honey pots from the yellow circle fabric, leave an extra ¼” of the yellow fabric all the way round – fuse to bondaweb and fuse to centre of grey hearts Fuse the hearts to the yellow squares – see photo above for placement* With RST sew the vertical panels, press seam towards the grey fabric. Sew the top and bottom panels and give the top quilt a good press. Free motion quilt around the circles and hearts 1/8” from the raw edge. Fuse top quilt to the wadding using basting spray. For the backing cut: 18” x 30” winnie the pooh and friends on mint 15” x 30” winnie the pooh and friends on white 7” x 30” winnie the pooh and friends on yellow Sew together in the above order Fuse to the other side of the wadding. To quilt… Use the white gutermann thread, and ‘stitch in the ditch’ around the outer edge of the grey box, continue around each of the four 8 ½” squares. On the white squares, make a diagonal line of stitches about ½” long and quilt another box inside of the 8 ½” square (to make it look like the quotes are in a frame) – see photo above. Trim quilt to measure 29 ½” x 39 ½” Cut strips from the grey and white striped fabric, with a width of 1 ¼”, join at right angles to create a length of approximately 150”. With RST sew to the front of the quilt, ¼” along the raw edge. Press ¼” of the remaining raw edge on the strip over, and hand sew to back of the quilt, create neat corners as you sew. Your quilt is complete… This ‘Winnie-The-Pooh quilt and tutorial has been created by Michelle at creativeblonde. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/creativeblonde66 and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for the fabrics and wadding found in this tutorial www.craftcotton.com 0161 832 9431 Stockist for Gutermann threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 Stockist for Vlieseline stitch ‘n’ tear and Vlieseline Bondaweb www.ladysewandsew.co.uk 01628 890 532 Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #kids #home #winniethepooh #freesewingtutorial #disney

You will need: Craft Cotton Essential Trend FQ Pack X 2 Wadding 1 Metre of fabric for the backing. Cut 2.5” strips from 5 fabrics. Fabric 1 & Fabric 2 Take the first 2 strips and sew r/s together with a ¼ inch seam allowance. Iron the seams to one side, open out then cut the strips to 2.5 Take another strip of fabric 2. R/S to R/S place the fabric strips you cut before on top and sew along as in picture. Trim in between the joins, iron seams and you will now have the block below. TOP TIP: Place the strips the same way I have shown you in the pictures as you Sew! It will affect the block pattern otherwise. Add Fabric 3 Now add Fabric 4 Block B Complete *Repeat instructions for Block A but swap the First and Last fabrics* You will need: 10 x Block A and 6 x Block B Block B: Block A: The Lovers Knot: Last of all, Fabric 5. Take your strips and join them together like I have shown in the picture below. This will create a border for the Quilt. Once you have laid out the blocks into the required pattern, begin sewing them together in strips, then sew the strips to create the whole quilt. R/S to R/S pin the edge of the border strip to the edge of the quilt and sew. I sew both long sides first, then the top and bottom. Iron flat, then cut the wadding to match the quilt size. Pin in various places then with a co-ordinating thread sew the quilt and wadding together. I did a little heart template and sewed one heart pattern in each corner and then 4 in the middle as a nice little decoration. TIP… It is easy to place the blocks incorrectly! I did LI had to remove one block and turn it round. I am a ‘make do with what I have kind of maker’ my backing fabric was slightly too small, so I just added more of the 2.5 strips to border the outside. Last of all I put the front and back R/S together, pinned and sewed all around, leaving a 3” gap to turn right way out. Press out the corners and sew the gap up. You can then top stitch round however you chose. This is an alternative to binding. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and it has inspired you to ‘have a go’ I would love hear your feedback and see your creations, please share with me, Instagram @bobbincottagebodkin Nicola Hills x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2019 #quilt #valentines #fatquarters #freesewingtutorial #pink