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Ingredients: Dannell’s Lampshade Kit that includes: Self-adhesive PVC Panel Painted Metal Frame with UK/EU Fitting Painted Metal Frame Roll of Double Sided Tape Finishing Tool Fabric - Kimono by Stuart Hillard for The Craft Cotton Co Tools: Scissors Seam Roller (optional) Make your own beautiful lampshade with your own choice of fabric design with one of the brilliant Dannell’s Lampshade kits. Method: Step 1. Fabric Choose your fabric for the lampshade covering. Depending on the size and shape lampshade kit you choose, will affect what size fabric you will require – this will be stated on the kit and the website when purchasing. If your fabric is ‘directional’ think about the way this will need to be cut when choosing your design. Cut your fabric down to a ‘workable’ size if you find this easier - slightly larger than your panel size. Iron your fabric to ensure all creases are removed. Step 2. Panel Place the panel (release paper side down) on the ‘reverse’ side of the fabric, and when you are happy with the placement – peel back some of the release paper and stick down to your covering. Tip – use a weight of some sort to keep everything in position. Smooth out from the middle and press the adhesive into the fabric firmly until all the release paper is removed. If your fabric has creased, peel back and try again. Step 3. Trimming Once you are happy with the placement and there are no creases, trim around the edges of the panel to remove surplus fabric. Step 4. Edges Snap back the creased edges (kiss cut) around the panel to break the edge of the PVC. Carefully, to avoid fraying, remove the broken edge strips of PVC to leave fabric edges along both side Step 5. Tape Apply double sided tape to one side of the PVC edge (shorter edge) this will be used to stick the seam together once we have assembled the main lampshade, remove the release tape. Apply double sided tape around both painted metal frames. Press the tape firmly and evenly on to the frames before removing all of the red release tape. We are now ready for the assembly! Step 6. Assembly At this point you need to consider whether you are using the shade as either a pendant light, or on a lampbase – and this will affect which side the frame with the EU/UK fitting will go and how the bulb will go in. Once you’ve decided this, line each frame as close to the start and edge of the panel. The ‘dipped’ part of the EU/UK frame needs to be ‘inside’ the lamp (not outwards!) The lining up of the frames to the edge seems quite tricky to start with, but it gets easier! Keep the frame within the PVC panel at all times – if you go outside, peel back and try again. When you get to the seam and overlap of the fabric, press down in the middle from the centre out to secure. This is best done against a flat working surface to ensure not to dent the panels in any way. For best results, use a seam roller tool – but your hand also works well! Step 7. Fabric edges Snip the fabric at the ‘struts’ on the EU/UK frame so the fabric can go ‘round’ these parts. Pinch the fabric, pull taught and push onto the sticky wire frames. Using the finishing tool, push the fabric behind the frames. You may hear a ‘cracking’ noise at this point – this is simply the glue pulling away from the PVC panel and being replaced by the fabric edge. If your finishing tool ‘curls’ up, cut with scissors to refresh. Force the tool between the gap and swipe around the rims of the frames until you are happy with the finish. Et voila – a beautiful lampshade. Enjoy! The Crafty Lass runs craft workshops from their studio in Lower Boddington, Northamptonshire – including lampshade making should you prefer to make one in a taught class! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com Dannells’ Lampshade Kits comply with fire regulations. For further information, please click here. Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #lampshade #home #kimono #freesewingtutorial

Keep all your project items safely together with this summery patchwork pineapple project bag. Materials Pastel flower fabrics by The Craft Cotton Company: 5 different colours, 30 x 30 cm pieces of 3 of these (white background with flowers, white background with dashes and green floral), and 80 x 50 cm of 2 of them (lemon and blue floral). Zip – 38 cm Batting – 30 x 30 cm Thread Needle Pins Ruler Paper Scissors Pencil Step 1 Cut out your paper templates for your pineapple. Step 2 Cut out your fabrics using the paper templates leaving a 1 cm seam allowance around the edge. Step 3 Fold the fabric around the edge of the template and use a tacking stitch to secure. Repeat with all the patchwork pieces. Step 4 Sew the patchwork pieces together by placing right sides together and overstitching down the edge. Step 5 Remove the tacking stitches and paper templates. Tuck the raw edges under and press. Step 6 Cut out a piece of batting 1cm smaller than the patchwork pineapple and pin to secure. Step 7 Cut out a front and back piece from the lemon fabric which is 40 x 38 cm. Sew the patchwork pineapple onto the front piece using a straight stitch. Step 8 Fold over the top edge of the front and back piece by 1 and press, take the front piece and pin the folded edge along the edge of zip sewing to secure. Repeat with the back piece on the other side of the zip. Place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew around the edges to secure. Turn out the right way. Step 9 Cut out a front and back lining piece from the blue floral fabric which is 39 x 37 cm, fold over the top edge of the front and back piece and press. Place the front and back right sides together and sew down the two sides and along the bottom leaving the top folded edge unsewn. Do not turn out. Step 10 Place the lining inside the patchwork bag and pin around the top edge. Slip stitch around to secure. Your project bag is now complete! Made by Lesley Foster at Hook, Stitch, Sew for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #pouch #bag #pineapple #fatquarter #summer #freesewingtutorial #accessories

Your panel will come with basic instructions, but here’s how to make your calendar even more special! In addition to your panel you’ll need fusible fleece, backing fabric, a dowelling rod and cord to hang. Alternatively you could finish the edges with bias binding and hang it with a couple of curtain rings. Use a 1.4” seam allowance Cut out the panel pieces, you’ll find it easier to use a rotary cutter and ruler. 2. Iron fusible fleece to the wrong side of the large panel. [Stabiliser will also work, we’re just adding a bit of sturdiness to the fabric]. To add a bit of personality, free motion embroider around a few of the prints on the panel, make sure they’re not under where the pockets will go! Don’t worry about perfection here, a ‘sketchy’ look is good! 3. Cut out each individual pocket piece. 4. Fold the edges of each pocket piece over by ¼” and press. Sew across the top of each pocket. It’s easier to chain sew these pieces, that’s continually sewing across each piece so they’re joined together, snip them apart when you’re finished. 5. Adhere each pocket piece over it’s place on the main panel with a basting stick, pins work too but a glue stick is easier! Sew around the bottom three sides of each pocket, leave to tops open, and don’t forget to back stitch at the beginning and end of your sewing to strengthen the stitches. 6. Cut a piece of backing fabric to the size of your panel. Cut another lining piece to the width of the panel and 4” in depth. Sew the ends of this strip over twice and sew to hem, then fold in half lengthways and sew to make a tube. Turn the right side out. 7. Pin, then sew this tube to the backing fabric, 1” from the top. 8. Remove any pins. Sew the backing fabric and the panel right sides together, leaving a turning gap of about 5” in one side. Snip across the corners, turn the right side out and press. Top stitch all around the edge, this will sew the opening closed. 9. Thread your dowelling through the channel on the back of the calendar and tie a cord around each end to hang. Fill with goodies and you’re ready for the countdown to Christmas! Made by Debbie Shore for The Craft Cotton Co 2018 #seasonal #christmas #panel #adventcalendar #freesewingtutorial

Follow my tutorial, on how to make a decorative wall hanging. I chose mine to celebrate the Jewish New Year. These beautiful fabrics are all available from Craft Cotton, and also available to purchase in Fat Quarter packs at Hobbycraft Please read through all the instructions before starting your project. Finished size: 22 1⁄4” x 22 1⁄4” “The research behind why I chose the items on my quilt...Bread is dipped into honey instead of salt, expressing our wish for a sweet year. This is done on Rosh Hashanah, Furthering the sweet theme, it is traditional to begin the meal on the first night with slices of apple dipped in honey. Before eating the apple, we make the ha’eitz blessing and then say, “May it be Your will to renew for us a good and sweet year.” Download template 1 Download template 2 Materials • FQ essential trend pack - Lime • FQ essential trend pack - Red • FQ busy bee fabric • 20” square of white fabric (02 white) • 22 1⁄4” x 22 1⁄4” heritage premium wadding • 6” square piece of brown fabric • 20” square of stabilizer (I used Vliesline H250) • 7” x 40” Bondaweb (I used Vliesline prepack bondaweb) • Gutermann threads Green col 1174 and brown col 851 Haberdashery items • Iron-away marker pen • Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors • Iron • Cutting mat • Basic sewing supplies • Rosh Hashanah Templates • 12” diameter circle • 505 basting spray or pins Making the Quilt Using the two template sheets, trace all pieces onto Bondaweb – note the numbers on the sheet, for how many of each you will need – all drawings have been reversed, ready for applique. Cut each shape out roughly, and fuse to your chosen fabrics, I kept groups of petals together, when fusing to fabric to avoid cutting and then possibly loosing the tiny pieces. Once fused, cut out accurately. Roughly fussy cut 15 (2 for the back of quilt) busy bees from the fabric, and fuse to Bondaweb, cut out accurately. Here’s what you will have so far, let the fun begin... Take the large square of white and fuse to the H250 Stabilizer. Using a fabric pencil, draw a 12” diameter circle, and arrange your applique, once happy with the placement, peel off the backing paper and fuse to the white fabric. Drop feed dogs on your machine, and add details (shown on template sheet) using a heat erasable marker first, then begin sewing over the applique using free motion quilting, this could also be done by hand - see photo for placement and details Add the writing to the honey pot, veins on the leaves, trails for the bees. I added detail to the centre of the flower to show off the star shape too – see photos below I used a leaf decorative stitch from my machine to sew around the 12” circle, if you don’t have this stitch, a zig zag or simple running stitch would work just as well, I avoided sewing through the honey pot and honey stick. Trim the white block to measure 19” x 19” Trace the ‘Rosh Hashanah’ writing from the template, using a fabric erasable pen (holding this up to the light, can help this process) Stitch over the tracing twice using FMQ – this could also be hand sewn Using the light green fabric from the FQ pack cut: Two strips 2” x 19” Two strips 2” x 22” With RST, using 1⁄4” seam allowance, sew the two shorter lengths to the top and bottom of the quilt, press seam flat. Add the remaining two strips to each side. Cut 3” wide strips from the dark green fabric, until you have a length equal to 96”, join these strips on the diagonal (like bias binding – this is done by laying two end pieces RST to create a corner, sew along the diagonal join, and trim excess) With RST using 1⁄4” seam allowance, add to the light green boarder, trim away excess. Press green fabric on a fold, leaving 3/8” visible on the front – see photos of front and reverse Making the back of the quilt. From the red and green FQ bundles, cut 2 reds and 2 green 10” squares, join RST using 1⁄4” seam allowance, press seams open. Fuse the two remaining bees to the back of the quilt, and sew in place, and details. Baste the front of the quilt to the wadding, and then position the backing to the centre of the reverse of the wadding – see photo Press 1⁄4” of the dark green raw edge over, and pin in place Hand sew the dark green fabric in place, using the same method as bias binding. Take note of how the corners should sit. To quilt, simple line up your machine 1⁄2” away from the outer edge of the previous circle, and sew through all layers, using a decorative stitch, I stopped when I reached the honey pot and honey stick, and re started to avoid sewing through the applique. Your quilt is complete... This ‘Jewish New Year’ quilt and tutorial has been designed and created by me - creativeblonde. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/creativeblonde66 and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for the fabrics and wadding found in this tutorial www.craftcotton.com 0161 832 9431 Stockist for Gutermann threads gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 01453 883581 Stockist for Vlieseline stabilizer and Vlieseline Bondaweb www.ladysewandsew.co.uk 01628 890 532 Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #seasonal #jewish #home #quilt #wallhanging #freesewingtutorial

Store all your knitting needles and accessories together in this handy storage roll with multiple pockets. Craft Cotton Company supplies: Fat quarter pack Other supplies: 18”x18” fusible foam 26” cotton lace trim Large coordinating button Step 1 Using your rotary cutter and ruler, cut your patterned fabric into pieces Craft fabric outer: 18”x18” Flower fabric lining: 18”x18” Wool fabric pocket: 18”x16” Buttons fabric pocket: 18”x8” Fusible foam: 18”x18” Step 2 Iron the fusible foam to the wrong side of the flower fabric lining Step 3 Fold the pocket fabrics in half lengthwise, press well along the fold Step 4 Position the pockets along the bottom edge of the lining fabric with the smallest pocket piece on the top, clip in place then baste along the raw edges to hold the pockets in place using a scant 1/4 “ seam Step 5 Mark your pocket lines on the pocket fabrics to suit your knitting needle sizes and quantity Stitch along the marked lines to create the pockets. Backstitching at the beginning and end will give extra strength to the pockets Step 6 Attach the lace trim where the top of the pocket meets the lining fabric. Fold over the raw edge at the end of the lace trim and stitch a hem to secure. Stitch a large button on the end of the lace trim Step 7 Tuck the lace into the pockets to keep it out of the way when stitching Step 8 Layer the outer fabric on top of the pocket/lining fabric with right sides together. Clip this together leaving an opening along the bottom seam for turning. Step 9 Stitch all the way around the sides, remembering to leave the turning gap. Using a walking foot makes the stitching easier when sewing the layers together Step 10 Clip each of the corners to remove excess fabric then turn right sides out. Use a bamboo creaser or chopstick to carefully push out the corners Step 11 Press the project flat, making sure turning gap seam is positioned correctly then top stitch around all edges closing the turning gap as you go Step 12 Measure and mark a 2” line from the top edge, topstitch along the drawn line. This will create the fold-over flap to prevent the knitting needles from slipping out Step 13 Insert the knitting needles in the large pockets and accessories in the small pockets then roll up the storage roll, wrap the lace around and tuck the button in to close. Made by Angela Harkness for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #knitting #roll #holder #organiser #sewing #fatquarter #freesewingtutorial #home

A simple and fun little project that is both practical and beautiful - creating your own fabric covered pinboard – with additional useful ‘pocket’! Ingredients: Fabric - from The Craft Cotton Co's 'Festive Mountains' Christmas collection Pinboard Staples (for Staple gun, see below) Ribbons (optional) Tools: Staple gun Method: Step 1. Fabric! Choose your fabric for the pinboard covering. The size of the fabric required will very much depend on how large or small your pinboard is! We have used the Hobbycraft ‘Valuecraft’ pinboard here – and have allowed 5cm additionally at each edge (so 10cm wider than the pinboard) to ensure enough fabric to staple round on the reverse. Don’t forget to also allow additional fabric for your ‘pocket’ at the bottom. This will need to be as wide as your pinboard, plus the additional 10cm (at least) at the sides. The pocket fabric is folded in half as you will see below – so ensure to measure how high up you would like the pocket to be on your pinboard, double the measurement + 10cm (this allows the additional 5cm on each ‘side’ of the pocket.) Step 2. Stapling! Once you have cut your fabric to size, take your main pinboard covering and fold the edge of your fabric around to the reverse of the pinboard and staple into position. It is best to staple at regular intervals along one edge, before moving on to the opposite edge and repeating the same. I have chosen to ‘double fold’ the fabric – so the ‘raw’ edges of the fabric are hidden underneath – but, as you are never going to see the reverse, it doesn’t really matter – whatever is easiest and best for you! Ensure to pull the fabric taught for a nice ‘neat’ finish and staple into position. Then, continue with the two remaining sides. Step 3. Corners! Fold the fabric nice and taught around the corners to also secure the fabric round on the back of the pinboard with the staples. They seem trickier than they really are! You can do these at the same time as going along the edges, but ensure to catch all the ‘stray’ fabric parts from both edge sides! Step 3. Ribbons! As a nice additional feature, I have also added on some ribbons to the pinboard. This allows some flexibility as to how the board is used – you could use bulldog clips to attach items to the ribbons, and/or use pins on to the board. We have just used ribbons vertically – but you could also add some horizontally, or even diagonally. Secure at the back with the staple gun, pull taught and staple at the other edge to put into position. Step 4. Pocket! You could easily just leave the pinboard as it is now, but a useful little feature is to add a ‘pocket’ – for all those things you need to keep ‘safe’! Take your measured and cut fabric, and fold in half. If you have a directional print on your fabric, ensure to use the ‘correct’ side facing outwards! Repeat the same as above by stapling into position on the reverse, pulling taught and neatly folding in the corners. Et voila – a beautiful and brilliant pocket pinboard. Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 www.thecraftylass.com #pinboard #stationary #office #organiser #fabric #beginner #nosew #freesewingtutorial #christmas #home

Follow my tutorial, on how to make a personalised Christmas stocking for your pet. These beautiful Christmas fabrics are all available from Craft Cotton, and also available to purchase in Fat Quarter packs at Hobbycraft. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size: 12” x 10” Materials • FQ Red Tartan • FQ Scotty dogs • FQ Tartan Hearts • Pre-pack Bosal Light Fusible Batting 425 22" x 36" • 14” brown ribbon • 1 ½” strip of hessian (the length of your pets name) • 1” strip of lace edged aida (the length of your pets name) Haberdashery items • Iron-away marker pen • Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors • Iron • Cutting mat • Basic sewing supplies • Christmas stocking templates • Embroidery needle & grey thread Making the Stocking Step 1: Cut using the following templates: Bone 1 Red Tartan 1 Batting Stocking without ‘top’ 2 Scotty dogs 2 Red Tartan 2 Batting Tops 2 Scotty dogs 2 Red tartan 2 Batting Heart 2 Tartan hearts – fussy cut 1 Batting Cross-stitching Add a paw print in grey thread to the strip of aida, then your dogs name and another paw print (each letter should be 8 stitches in height and 5 stitches in width, with a 1 stitch gap between letters). Fold raw edges over and sew to the strip of hessian, leaving ¼” extra at each end Fuse the Red Tartan bone to the batting, and blanket stitch the name tag in the centre Fuse both stocking batting pieces to the two pieces of stocking scotty dog fabric. Place your bone name tag in place and blanket stitch around the edge Fuse the batting tops to the Red Tartan tops, and sew RST using ¼” seam allowance to the stocking pieces with batting attached. Press seams open, and top stitch 1/8” from seam (this will help the seam lay flatter). Repeat on the other outer stocking piece Fuse the heart batting to one heart piece, cut a7” length if brown ribbon, pin to the top righthand corner, with the ribbon laying on top of the heart faced up. Place the second heart RST and stitch around ¼” from the edge, leaving a 1 ½” gap for turning Sew the two lining pieces RST, starting and finishing ½” from the top, leaving a 4” gap at the bottom for turning. DO NOT sew along the top edge. Repeat for the two outer pieces, but this time do not leave the 4” gap. Leave these two stockings inside out. Pin your heart label inside, along the top edge, and pin the remaining piece of ribbon to the inside of top (for hanging up your stocking) Sew with RST ½” along the top edges, joining your stocking together. Press and pull both pieces through the 4” gap in lining Press and sew up the gap using a ladder stitch, push the lining inside the main stocking, and top stitch along top edge of stocking Your pets Christmas stocking is finished… This ‘Christmas stocking’ and tutorial has been designed and created by me - creativeblonde. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog and/or Instagram page and Facebook Stockist for the fabrics found in this tutorial www.craftcotton.com 0161 832 9431 Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #stocking #xmas #christmas #christmasstocking #christmassewing #fatquarterws #dog #pet #present #freesewingtutorial #seasonal

Perfect for keeping all your loose items together in one very pretty floral place. Materials Japanese floral fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company 40 x 40 cm piece of cotton fabric by The Craft Cotton Company in pink 40 x 40 cm batting 10 x 10 cm piece of cotton fabric by The Craft Cotton Company in dark blue Pencil Paper Ruler Pins Scissors Ruler Thread Needle Zip – 18 cm Step 1 On a piece of paper draw two lines 20 cm long then draw a curved line to join the two and create a circle quarter. Draw another curved line 5 cm from the bottom left corner to create a smaller circle quarter. Split the larger circle quarter into 4 and cut out to create your pattern pieces. Step 2 Cut out the fabrics using a 0.5cm seam allowance and use the fat quarter fabrics for the larger circle quarter section pieces (2 pieces from the same fabric pattern for each section so you have a front and back piece) and the dark blue fabric for the smaller circle quarters (2 of these so there is one for the front and one for the back). Layout the fabric pieces so you have a front and back. Step 3 Take the front fabric pieces and sew the larger circle quarter section pieces together by placing the first two sections right sides together and sewing down the side edge, repeat with the remaining section pieces. Press. Take the smaller circle quarter piece and pin along the bottom edge of the larger circle quarter and sew to secure. Press. Repeat for the back. Step 4 Cut out two pieces of batting which are the same size as the front and back patchwork pieces. Take the front piece and one of the batting pieces and add quilted detail by sewing down the larger circle quarter lines. Repeat for the back piece. Step 5​ Take the front and fold the top edge over by 1 cm. press. Place the zip so it’s side edge is positioned under the folded edge and pin. Sew to secure. Repeat for the back piece. Step 6 Fold so the front and back pieces are placed right sides together and pin. Sew around the edge to secure. Turn out the right way. Step 7 Take the pink fabric and cut out two pieces from this that are the same size as the completed pouch. Place them right sides together and sew along the curved edge and down one side leaving on side unsewn. Fold over the top edge by 1 cm and press. Without turning place the lining into the completed purse and sew around the top edge to secure. Your pouch is now complete! Made by Lesley Foster at Hook, Stitch, Sew for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #zip #pouch #japanese #fatquarter #case #bag #patchwork #freesewingtutorial #accessories

Make one of these funky 3D Christmas trees with only a few fat quarters. What you need: -Fabric - 2-3 Fat Quarters. I used three different fabrics, you could use all the same if you wish. -Scissors -Pins -Thread -Sewing Machine - Straight stitch approx. length 2.5 (Small stitches are better for the points and stuffing does not try to push through the stitches -Toy stuffing Making your pattern I drew my Christmas tree by hand. Draw a shape that is pleasing to you. You may prefer your branches sticking up a little more – the choice is yours. The height is approximately 23cm when finished and 28cm in width. Only draw half of the tree, then fold the paper in half, pin together and cut around the line. Or make a card template and draw directly onto the fabric. Cutting out your Christmas tree Cut out 6 Christmas trees in your chosen fabrics. Pin right sides together in pairs and stitch together around the edge using ¼ inch seam allowance. Leave a gap at the bottom of each section for stuffing. Snip into the corners to help when turned. Snip off the points, so when you turn out the ends of the branches will have good points. Turn each tree shape the right way around being careful not push anything sharp through the material. When turned out lay your three trees on top of each other. Stitch together down the centre. Mark from the top point to centre bottom. I used a pencil as you will not see this stitching line once your tree is stuffed. Once you have stitched your trees together, you will find you have created six pockets. This is where you need to put your stuffing. I advise stuffing the top of all six sections first, then middles and finally the bottom. I found that I could not get the sections even if I filled one at a time. When you are happy with the amount of filling, the next stage is to over sew or slip stitch the bottom of each pocket. This is the base of the tree. Tuck in the raw edges and slip stitch closed. Your tree is now finished. You can embellish of decorate your tree, maybe with buttons or mini baubles and bells. You could even put a star on the top. Merry Christmas! Made by Jo Gleeson for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #christmas #xmas #christmastree #christmassewing #fatquarter #snowman #tree #freesewingtutorial #seasonal

Personalise your table décor with these handmade fabric placemats and napkins! Or a set of these would make a lovely gift. Ingredients: Fabric Sewing machine thread Bosal Craft Placemat Packs Tools: Sewing Machine Scissors Pins Pencil Iron Method: Step 1 - Fabric! Choose your fabric for both the table mats and napkins. We have opted to make both the napkins and the tablemats reversable - with contrasting floral designs for a fun, bright and Summery look. You could decide to use the same designed fabric throughout for a more coordinated design – or, make one side patterned, one side plain! Really, it is entirely up to you. For the tablemats you will require 2 x pieces of fabric larger than the ‘Bosal General Placemats’, for as many mats as you would like to make. For the napkins, I started with two 30 x 30 cm squares of fabric per napkin. Step 2 - Sewing! NAPKINS Onc e you have cut your fabric to size, put your two squares of fabric together with the ‘right’ sides inwards. Pin to secure, before stitching in a running stitch around the edge, leaving a gap to allow you to turn outwards. Turn outwards ensuring the corners are pushed out as far as possible and iron the edges out flat. Go around the edge wit h a running stitch to secure the napkin into place. TABLEMATS Once you have cut your fabric to size, put your two pieces of fabric together with the ‘right’ sides inwards. Place your Bosal General Placemat on to the fabric and draw around the edge on to the fabric with a pencil. Pin your pieces together to secure and sew in a running stitch around the edge on your pencil line, leaving a fairly large gap to allow you to turn outwards. This is easiest to leave the gap along a ‘straight’ edge for when securing everything together later. Turn outwards ensuring the edges are pushed out as far as possible. Roll up the placemat and push through the gap and fold out again inside pushing the edges out as far as you can. TIP: The first time I did this, I had potentially sewn just slightly INSIDE the pencil line – and the mat was too tight to fit the fabric case. However, I trimmed back the placemat slightly by 1-2mm around the edge, and it became a perfect fit so don’t worry if it won’t fit first time! Instructions are included with the Bosal General Placemat packs – so ensure to follow these – but you will now be using a steam iron to fix the fabric on to the placemat. Once secured into place, run a running or decorative stitch of your choice around the edge of the placemat all together to secure into place. Et voila! Placemats and napkins. Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Co 2018 #napkins #placemats #home #tablewear #fatquarters #freesewingtutorial

This make combines lovely floral patterns and a fan pattern design to create an eye-catching quilt. Materials Japanese Florals fat quarter set by The Craft Cotton Company 115 x 115 cm Cotton fabric by The Craft Cotton Company in: Red Pink Dark blue 115 x 115 cm batting Thread Needle Scissors Ruler Pencil Pins Paper Step 1 On a piece of paper draw a 15 x 15 cm square, then within this square draw two curved lines to create 2 circle quarters. Then split the larger circle quarter section into 4. Cut out to make your pattern pieces Step 2 Cut out the patchwork pieces using the fat quarter fabrics for the larger circle quarter and the pink and dark blue fabrics for the smaller circle quarter and the surrounding edge piece leaving a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Step 3 To sew the pieces together first take 4 of the larger circle quarter fabric pieces and start by sewing the first two sections together by placing right sides together and sewing down the side edge, repeat this with the remaining section pieces until all 4 are sewn together. Press. Next take one of the smaller circle quarter plain fabric pieces and pin along the bottom edge of the larger circle quarter, sew to secure. Now take the surrounding edge piece and pin along the top edge of the larger circle quarter, pin and sew to secure. Press and trim if required to square off the completed block. Repeat this process with the remaining patchwork pieces. Step 4 Layout the patchwork blocks alternating between the pink and blue surrounding edge pieces, and turning one of the blocks on each of the rows shown on the picture to create the winding effect that runs diagonally across the quilt. Step 5 Sew the blocks together one row at a time, then sew the rows together to create the quilt top. Step 6 Lay the red fabric backing piece right side down, place the batting on top then lay the quilt top right side up on top. Pin to secure then add quilted detail by sewing along the top edge of the small and larger circle quarters. Step 7 Make the binding by cutting 8cm wide strips of fabric from the remaining fat quarters, pink and blue fabric. Sew together to create a strip that is 4 m long. Fold this strip in half and press. At the starting end unfold and fold the edge in to create a diagonal edge, fold the strip back down and press again. Pin the binding so its raw edge is against the raw edge of the quilt, pin and sew around the edge to secure. Then fold the top edge of the binding over to the other side of the quilt. Pin and slip stitch to secure. Your quilt is now complete! Made by Lesley Foster at Hook, Stitch, Sew for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #quilt #quilting #fatquarter #japanese #freesewingtutorial #patchwork #fan

Cut the shape & size of the Christmas Stocking you require from some cardboard to use as a template. Make separate templates for added details, double the required cuff width in fabric (Height) as you will create a fold for the neat bottom edge. Cut two outer Stocking shapes from one fabric and 2 in the lining fabric. Use some alternative fabric to add the details to one of the outer stocking fabric. Secure with pins and sew round. I also added ric-rac and buttons. R/S Together put the 2 outer fabrics together and Sew all round (leaving the top open), clip into the fabric on the bends so that when it’s turned out it holds the shape. Repeat for the lining but leave a 3” gap (See arrow) for turning out. For the cuff, sew the two short ends together R/S facing. Turn the cuff R/S out, fold it from the bottom. It should make a tube, with a folded bottom and raw edges at the top. The next bit is a little tricky.. With the outer stocking R/S out, put it inside the Lining W/S out. Put the cuff in-between them both R/S out with the raw edges at the top. Pin all pieces at the top to secure. (At this point you can also add a hanging tag if you wish pin to the cuff with the loop down and raw edges to the top or you can add one after as I did with a button for decoration.) Sew around the top then gently pull the outside through the gap you left in the lining piece. Sew up the hole in the lining and finger press to make sure your lining sits nicely inside. I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial please share your makes with me @bobbincottagebodkin Nicola x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2018 #christmastree #christmassewing #xmas #stocking #fatquarter #freesewingtutorial #seasonal