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Project by Jo Hart What you need: Freddie and friends Fat Quarter Bundle ½ Mtr background fabric ½ Mtr lining fabric 22” piece of batting 20” cushion pad Cutting out: From background fabric cut: 4 – 4 ½” squares 4 – 5” squares 2 – 2 ½” x 16 ½” Strips 2 – 2 ½” x 20” Strips 1 – 2” x 20” strip From Fat quarter bundle cut: 4 - 5” squares 4 – 4 ½” sqaures From backing fabric cut: 2 - 15” x20” pieces of fabric Step 1, On all of the 5” squares, draw a line diagonally through the middle from corner to corner and cut apart on the line Match 1 blackground triangle and 1 corresponding triangle together and sew along the long edge using ¼” seam allowance to create half square triangles. Trim each one to 4 ½” square Step 2, Arrange all the squares as per the layout guide and sew together in 4 rows of 4. Step 3, Take the 2, 2 ½” x 16 ½” strips, sew to the top and bottom of the block and press open. Take the 2, 2 ½” x 20” strips, sew to the sides of the block and press open to complete the cushion top. Step 4, Make a quilt sandwich by layering the lining fabric, batting and cushion top together, baste and quilt as desired. Trim to 20” x 20”. Step 5, Take your piece of fabric measuring 15”” x 20” and fold over ¼” along the long edge, Press. Fold over another ¼”, press again and topstitch into place. Step 6, Take your strip of fabric measuring 2” x 20” , fold in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press, fold the outside edges into the centre and press again, fold in half again on the first centre fold line and press to complete the binding. Attach the binding to the other piece of backing fabric measuring 15” x 20” along the long edge and topstitch into place. Step 7, Place your cushion front right side up and layer your first piece of backing fabric (with the binding attached) on top right side down, lining up the raw edges with the top and sides. Layer the other piece of backing fabric on top right side down, lining up the raw edges with the bottom and sides. Pin and sew all the way around using ¼” seam allowance. Step 8, Trim the corners being careful not to cut into the stitching and zig zag stitch all the way around. Turn right side out and insert cushion pad to finish. To see more from Jo, visit her on Instagram @unicornharts Made by Jo Hart for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Katie Done at The Fabric Squirrel The Craft Cotton Company have teamed up with the Victoria and Albert Museum to create this beautiful Alice in Wonderland fabric collection. Inspiration has been taken from the original artwork found in the V&A to create 5 prints with all our favourite characters. When I was asked if I could create something to show off the new range, I thought some kind of quilt that could be used for kids tea parties. I wanted something that would be a bit psychedelic so came up with this half square triangle spiral design. It may look a little complicated if you are new to quilting but I promise it is actually quite simple and is made up of 9 simple panels. YOU WILL NEED 2 fat quarters (orange, blue) Half metre (purple) Half metre (blue) 1.5 metres of white blender Sewing machine Iron and ironing board Finished Size = 85cm square HST = Half Square Triangle Use 1/34" seam allowance throughout. Press Seams open. CUTTING First you will need to cut all your fabric. You will need the following. White blender: 3 3/4" squares x 18 4 1/2" squares x 36 Blue Alice: 3 3/4" squares x 4 4 1/2" squares x 8 Blue Cards: 3 3/4" squares x 4 4 1/2" squares x 8 Peach: 3 3/4" squares x 2 4 1/2" squares x 4 Purple: 3 3/4" squares x 8 4 1/2" squares x 16 Binding: 2" x 4 bolt widths (this will be longer than you need so if you have some smaller pieces left you can do 3 bolt widths plus an extra 6"). METHOD The main technique to this quilt is half square triangles. I will refer to them as HST. There are several ways of coming to the same finish, but I will show you my favourite way. They do end up being slightly too big and I trim them down afterwards. I find this the easiest way to ensure they are accurate. 1. You need to pair up all your coloured squares and white squares of the same size. Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the other. I have some washi tape on my machine as a guide, so I don't need to do this each time. 2. Sew quarter inch either side of the centre line. 3. Cut down the centre line. Open them out and press the seams open. 4. You will end up with two HSTs. Now you need to repeat this with all your squares. It is easier to do this in a chain. 5. With your smaller squares arrange them with the matching colours like below and sew them into a four patch. Trim this down to 4" 6. Trim your large squares down to 4". Now lay your larger HST and centre square as per below and sew together. Repeat this for all 9 squares. 7. Lay out your squares with the purples in the corners and orange in the centre. Sew these together and give it a good press. I have uses Heritage premium wadding from Bosal and the white blender as the backing. 8. Layer your backing, wadding and quilt top. Smooth it out really well and baste. I always use curved pins to baste my quilts. 9. I spent a while trying to work out how to quilt it but decided on a circular design starting from the centre and working my way out. I haven't marked it out, just gone by eye but you could if you wanted to ensure it was super accurate. I have used white thread for the quilting and throughout the project. 10. Now you just need to trim and bind your quilt and you are done. Most people have a preferred method for binding. I rarely do mine by hand (or they would never get finished). I usually sew the binding to the back and then press forward and top stitch it on the front. Here are some more pictures of the finished quilt with my mini model aged 7 months for a size guide. We also ordered an afternoon tea from a local company called Graze Grantham recently, so I took the opportunity to take some pictures. It was a delicious treat, and I would highly recommend them! To see more from Katie, visit her on Instagram @thefabricsquirrel Made by Katie Done for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Paula Milner You Will Need Fabric Thread Wadding Ribbon Craft Essentials Sewing Machine Fabric Scissors Pins Tape Measure Iron and Ironing Board Safety Pin (optional for the inner drawstring bag) How to Make 1. CUT Select and press your fabrics. For the main bag you will need 4 x pieces of fabric each 38cm x 54cm, and additionally 2 x wadding at the same dimensions. If you want to also make the matching coordinating inner drawstring bag you will require an additional 4 x pieces of fabric at the same dimensions. For the handles you will also need 2 pieces of fabric 10cm x 50cm and 1 piece the same dimensions in wadding. You could of course make the handles longer or shorter if you desired. 2. MAIN OUTER BAG - SEW Place your fabrics for the outer bag right sides together and add a piece of wadding on either side. Wadding, fabric, fabric, wadding. Sew down one side, pivot, along the bottom, pivot and sew back up the other side. Secure your threads. 3. MAIN OUTER BAG - BOX PRESS SEAM This creates a larger bottom to the bag rather it just being straight up and down. At the bottom of your bag fold out the seams in each corner so that your side seam and bottom seam are lined up together. Measure 3cm in and mark before sewing a straight line to form a ‘triangular shape’. Cut off any additional fabric and then turn your bag out the right way before pressing. This sounds more complicated than it is, but hopefully the pictures show what I mean! 4. MAIN BAG LINING - SEW Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the main bag lining, without the wadding. However, don’t turn the bag out the right way at the end. 5. MAIN BAG - HANDLES Place your fabric right sides together and the one layer of quilt wadding on top. Fold in half so you have fabric right sides together and the wadding on the outside. Sew all the way along the long edge, before turning your handle out the right way. Press. Repeat with your second handle. 6. MAIN BAG - CONSTRUCT Place your main bag lining inside the main outer bag. Fold the edges inwards on the main bag and the inner liner by 5cm. Put your handles into position in between the two and pin everything together. Make sure to try and place your handles at an even point central to the bag. Optional - INNER DRAWSTRING BAG 7. INNER DRAWSTRING OUTER CASING - MARK On the wrong side of one of the bag outer pieces, mark the ribbon drawstring casing position: measure down the side edges by 6cm (2¼in) from the top and mark on either side. Mark down a further 2cm (¾in). This will be where the ribbons will later be inserted to form the bag handles. 8. INNER DRAWSTRING OUTER - SEW Place the drawstring bag outer front and back right sides together and, taking a 1cm (½in) seam allowance, stitch the side seams from the top edge to the first mark. Backstitch to secure the stitching. Start stitching again at the second mark, leaving the casing section unstitched. Again, backstitch at the start to secure the stitching, then continue towards the bottom of the bag. Pivot at the bottom corner, sew along the bottom edge, pivot then stitch the second side edge as the first, leaving the gap for the casing section unstitched. 9. INNER DRAWSTRING OUTER CASING – SEW To make the first part of the casing, turn under the top edge by 5cm (2in) and press. Stitch all the way round, just below the open seam section at the side edges. You will later stitch a parallel row of above the first row to create your channel (see below) but this will happen once the ribbons are inserted and the lining has gone inside. 10. INNER DRAWSTRING OUTER - BOX PRESS SEAM This creates a larger bottom to the bag rather it just being straight up and down. At the bottom of your bag fold out the seams in each corner so that your side seam and bottom seam are lined up together. Measure 3cm in and mark before sewing a straight line to form a ‘triangular shape’. Cut off any additional fabric and then turn your bag out the right way before pressing. This sounds more complicated than it is, but hopefully the pictures show what I mean! 11. INNER DRAWSTRING OUTER CASING – RIBBONS Cut two pieces of ribbon or cord into two equal lengths. This will need to be just over the same length as the width of the bag. Using a safety pin, feed one end of the ribbon through the gap of the casing – push all the way around and out the same side. Knot to secure. Feed the second piece of ribbon from the other side edge, again all the way around, and knot to secure. 12. INNER DRAWSTRING - LINING Repeat steps 9 and 10 for the inner drawstring lining. However, there is no need for the casing and don’t turn the bag out the right way at the end. 13. INNER DRAWSTRING - CONSTRUCT Place your main bag lining inside the main outer bag. Fold the edges inwards on the main bag and the inner liner by 5cm. Pin together to secure. Finally stitch both the outer bag and the inner lining together with a parallel row of stitches at the very top of your bag – ensuring not to trap the ribbons inside. Now, put your drawstring inside the main bag – handy for storing your items in ‘sections’. Et voila! A tote bag with inner drawstring… Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com @thecraftylass Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Sarah Holliman A gorgeous Christmas sewing project, this Nutcracker Stocking Panel is lovely to make up and a family heirloom which will be cherished year after year. You will need; Craft Cotton Co. Nutcracker Stocking Panel Bosal fabric for shaping the stocking. Half a metre of Lining fabric Pins/Scissors METHOD 1. Lay out your stocking panel on a flat surface and cut out all the pieces along the dotted lines as shown. 2. Using your stocking template cut out two pieces of fabric for the lining of the stocking. 3. To make the lining, put the right sides together and stitch around the stocking shape leaving the top open and also leaving a gap of 6 inches around the heel side for turning the lining later. Make sure you make the lining slightly smaller than the stocking itself so that the lining fits neatly inside the stocking. Press the lining. 4. Using the stocking template, cut out the two pieces of batting the same size, one for the back and one for the front piece. 5. Tack the batting onto the fabric to hold it securely in place. 6. Take the stocking and batting to the sewing machine and quilt as desired. If you are going to add embellishments it is a good idea to do this now. 7. When you have quilted both sides of the stocking, put the right sides together and pin into place. If you want to add the tab onto the stocking pin this inside the stocking and sew inside the seam. Sew a quarter inch seam all the way around the stocking leaving the top of the stocking open. 8. Turn the stocking out the right way and press into shape. 9. Take the lining fabric right sides facing and slip the quilted stocking inside, as shown below. 10. Sew the top of the lining to the top of the stocking. 11. Turn the quilted stocking out of the side hole and pull the lining through. Sew up the small gap and then push the lining back neatly inside the stocking. 12. Top stitch the top of the stocking for a neat finish. Add tags and embellishments. Your Christmas Stocking is now complete and ready to hang. MERRY CHRISTMAS! To see more from Sarah, follow her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Nicola Hills What you’ll need: 1/2 Metre of main Fabric 1/2 Metre of lining Fabric Contrasting fabric for Toe & Heel Buttons, Bows & Bells Wadding Ribbon Thread Tools Required: Basic Sewing Kit Sewing Machine How to: Draw yourself a stocking template, or find one to print off from the internet. Cut out x 2 from main fabric x 2 from lining fabric & 2 x wadding If you want to add Toe and Heel contrast cut them out now. Put 1 piece of outer fabric on top of a wadding piece, you may want to pin to secure, then use a heat erasable pen to draw quilt lines to follow. Sew over the lines. Repeat for the second side. When you have quilted both sides, add the Toe & Heel contrasts, sew to attach. Place a lining piece on top of the outer R/S down and sew across the top of the leg. Repeat for the other pieces. Iron the seams flat, then with the stocking layed out (as above) place the second joined piece on top R/S together with linings/outer fabrics matching. Pin (matching the top leg seam) then sew all around, but leave a 3’’ gap in the top part of the leg lining to turn right side out. Clip into the curve section to lessen the bulk and keep the shape. Turn R/S out and sew the gap up in the lining. You can add a cuff, by using a strip long enough and folded in half to go round the top of the leg. Join the strip along the short side first the fold in half. Tuck 1” into the inside and hand sew neatly. Last step, add a ribbon to hang, and some accessories if you wish. The other stocking was made in the exact same way but a Pocket, Toe & Heel were fabric matched and added. When a fabric is as beautiful as this ‘in my opinion’ less is more, I like to keep it simple. I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, if you ‘have a go’ please share with us! Nicola x @craftcottonco @bobbincottagebodkin Made by Nicola Hill for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Michelle Roberts Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Finished size 18 ½” x 46 ½” Materials Christmas Fat Quarter pack 1 metre of red with gold reindeer fabric ½ metre of green shimmer fabric ½ metre of white fabric 20” x 50” Vlieseline Thermolam 272 batting Threads from Aurifil Haberdashery items Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors Iron Cutting mat Basic sewing supplies Frixtion fabric pen Odif 505 basting spray or pins Making the presents… From the Christmas FQ pack, fussy cut the following pieces (Fabric direction is important when cutting out your gift pieces) Four 3” x 2” pieces for the small present Eight 3” x 3” squares to make the medium presents Eight 3” x 5” pieces for the large presents From the green shimmer fabric, cut the following for the ribbon on the presents One 1 ½” x 6 ½” strip and One 1 ½” x 4 ½” strip for the small present Two 1 ½” x 6 ½” strip and Two 1 ½” x 3” strip for the medium presents Two 1 ½” x 3” strip and Two 1 ½” x 10 ½” strip for the large presents To make the bows, cut five 3” squares from the green shimmer fabric, and five 3” squares from the white fabric. Draw a diagonal line across the white fabric, lay right sides together with a green square. Sew ¼” either side of the draw line. Cut along the line, press open and repeat to make 10 bow top pieces Lets get sewing… Join the main present pieces as shown below, adding a 2 ¾” x 1 ¼” square to either side of the centre bow. Square up your gifts is needed. Cut the following pieces from the white fabric. This will join the presents together to form the table runner. One 6 ½” x 6 ¼” piece – add to top of small present One 4 ½” x 6 ¼” piece – add to top of medium present Four 12 ½” x 2 ½” strips – add in between each present Two 12 ½” x 2 ½” strips – add to each end once presents are joined Two 44 ½” x 2 ½” strips – add to top and bottom of main piece From the red/gold reindeer fabric, cut (check direction of fabric when cutting and joining) Two 2” x 16 ½” strips Two 2” x 50” strips (joint two pieces together to create one long length) Join to the main table runner Baste to Vlieseline thermolam batting, and backing piece* *20” x 50” piece of red / gold reindeer fabric Quilt using preferred method, I chose a 3” cross pattern using white thread Trim away excess backing and batting, by cutting the red surround to measure 1 ½”. Cut 1 ½” strips from the green shimmer fabric to create binding, sew to the surround with right sides together. Press over ¼” of the raw edge and hand sew to the reverse to complete your christmas gift table runner. To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric www.visagetextiles.com https://www.facebook.com/craftcottonco Stockist for Aurifil www.aurifil.com/ www.facebook.com/aurifil.quilt.thread Stockist for Vlieseline Thermolam batting www.vlieseline.com/en/ www.facebook.com/VlieselineFreudenbergUK Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Gill Rich We all love Christmas decor and why not brighten your sofa with a lovely quilted cushion. This is an easy project to make and you can do as much or as little quilting on it as you wish. What you will need:- Fat Quarter bundle – I used Craft Cotton Traditional Christmas Co-ordinating threads Scissors or rotary cutter and mat Wadding, 18” square Tape measure or quilters ruler Backing fabric Cushion inner (16” square) All seam allowances are 1⁄4” To start off your cushion, your starting point is the centre square, Cut a piece of fabric 5.5” square making a focal point of a part of the design, I chose the post box. Find the centre of your wadding piece and place the centre of the square here. You may if you wish, use a temporary adhesive spray to stick down your square. Quilt this piece to the wadding by stitching approximately 10 straight lines from top to bottom. They do not have to be parallel. The next section is the two rectangles top and bottom of the square. Cut two pieces of your chosen fabric 5.5” x 3.5”. Lay one piece with right sides together matching the raw edges at the top of the square, Stitch through all layers. Fold back and press. Stitch horizontal lines in the same way as the centre square. Repeat for the other side. The next two pieces are the two side pieces on the left and right. Cut two rectangles measuring 11” x 3.5”. Stitch these in place in the same way as with the other side. Stitch over the top with vertical lines. Now for the top piece. Cut two rectangles from your fourth fabric measuring 12” x 3.5”. Place one piece with right sides together across the top of the pieces already stitched. Stitch in place, fold over and press. Stitch your quilting lines horizontally, again not necessarily parallel. Repeat for the other side. The final two pieces you need to cut from the same fabric but measuring 18” x 3.5”. Stitch in place as before and quilt your lines in a vertical manner. The next stage is to make the envelope back. Cut two pieces of fabric measuring 16” x 10.5”. On one of the long edges, turn over half an inch and press. Fold over again and press the stitch along this edge. Repeat for the other piece. Place your cushion front right side up. Take your two back pieces and place with right sides down so that the seamed edges are in the centre of the cushion. Pin all the way round to secure then stitch around the edge with a 1⁄2” seam allowance. Trim the corners and turn your cushion right side out poking out the corners with a sharp tool. Give your cushion a good press and pop your cushion pad inside and enjoy your handiwork ! To see more from Gill, visit her on Instagram @designbygill66 Made by Gill Rich for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Sarah Holliman This beautiful Rag Wreath is a quick and easy make. Easily adaptable to add your own choice of fabrics and decorations. A perfect accessory for inside or outside your home. You will need; 1-2 metres of different fabrics or a Fabric quarter 5 pack 12 inch/30cm Metal ring wreath (available from Hobbycraft/garden centres). Pinking Shears/Scissors Ruler Ribbon/String for hanging the wreath METHOD 1. Cut all your fabric pieces into strips of 7 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide. I like to use pinking shears to cut the fabric as it gives the wreath a fuller effect, but you can also use scissors. 2. When you have all the strips cut, start to tie them onto the metal frame. 3. Keep tying all the fabric strips around the frame until there are no spaces or gaps left, the more fabric strips you can squeeze in, the fuller and fluffier the wreath will be. 4. When you have finished tying all the fabric onto the wreath you can also make a large fabric bow to decorate the wreath. Cut a fabric quarter in half widthways and then in half again, so that you have two strips of fabric 2.5 inches wide by approx. 22 inches in length 5. Sew the strips right sides together and turn out the right way round. 6. Press the two fabric strips. 7. Use one strip to form a bow shape. Stitch together in the middle. This seam will be hidden by the bow ties. 8. Use the second strip as the ribbon ties on the bow. Tie this strip around the wreath frame, pulling the bow into shape. Neatly hem the bow edges. Arrange the bow as desired. 9. Attach a hanging ribbon or string to the top of the wreath. 10. FLUFF YOUR WREATH, ADD ACCESSORIES IF DESIRED AND ENJOY! MERRY CHRISTMAS! To see more from Sarah, visit her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Lesley Foster Perfect for Christmas this table runner will add some extra festiveness this Christmas season. Materials Snowy Woodland fabric by The Craft Cotton Company - Snowflake (45x45 – for background) - Pine cone (30x30cm – for trees) - Mistletoe (30x30cm – for trees) - Woodland lodge (20x20cm – for trunks) - Owls (1m x 32cm – for backing, 20x20cm - for trunks) - Woodland creatures (2, 1x4cm – for front strips) Ruler Pencil Paper Pins Scissors Needle Thread 1. On paper draw out a template for the patchwork pieces (below is drawn on a 20x21cm piece of paper). 2. Cut out the template and use this to cut out the fabric using a 0.5cm seam allowance. 3. Take the trunks and snowflake background pieces that will form the bottom patchwork row of the table runner and join them together by placing right sides together and sewing down the right hand side. 4. Take the trees and snowflake background pieces that will form the top patchwork row and sew together by placing right sides together and sewing down the right hand side. 5. Take the two patchwork rows and sew together by placing right sides together and sewing to join. 6. Take the two front strips and place one along the top edge and one along the bottom edge, place right sides together and sew to join. 7. Take the back piece and place right side up, place the patchwork from right sides down on top and sew around to join, leaving a 10cm gap for turning. 8. Turn out the right way and slip stitch to close. To see more from Lesley, visit her on Instagram @hookstitchsew Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Stephanie Marsh You will need (for 1 stocking and 1 cushion): ½ M Christmas fabric 2 x fat quarters Christmas fabric ½ M white (or plain) cotton matching thread contrasting thread bondaweb toy stuffing 1cm wide co-ordinatng ribbon (approx. 12”) 4 small bells (optional) Paw Print template - download and print The names on the applique were embroidered onto the white cotton using an embroidery machine, this is optional. Instructions for cushion 1. Print off the PDF below, and tape together to form a large paw print. 2. Trace off the paw prints from this onto bondaweb. Roughly cut these out and the rough side onto the plain cotton. Cut then out and put to one side. 3. Cut 2 of the main cushion, 1 from each of the Christmas fabrics. Decide which one is the back and which the front. Put the back to one side. 4. Take the paw pieces and place them on the front cushion piece following the guidelines on the pattern. When you are happy with this remove the backing from the paw pieces (this is best done by scraping a pin across the paper to tear it, then remove all the backing paper. Pin in place, then using a steam iron set them in place. 5. Using an appliques stitch or a small close zig-zag stitch, stitch around all the raw edges to join them to the cushion front piece. NOTE: pull any thread ends through to the reverse side and knot before cutting, this give a neater finish on the right side. 6. Now take the back piece and match it to the front piece, right sides together. Stitch all around, using a 1cm seam allowance. Leave a gap of about 4 inches across the bottom seam for turning. 7. Clip into the corners and trim the seam allowance (no the unsewn seam allowance) with pinking shears (or trim the seam allowances to about ¼ inch and clip all curves). 8. Turn right sides out and press. 9. Stuff firmly with toy stuffing. Use a little at a time so the cushion does not end up lumpy. 10. Using a ladder stitch, sew the gap closed. Dog Stocking The matching dog stocking was taken from the PDF below, which is available on the internet for free. The instructions were easy to follow. I did not use any wadding / fleece as I found the cotton was stable enough. The applique was carried out as per the cushion. To trace the stocking top onto the cotton I used a Pilot Frixion pen, these work very well on cotton, and when ironing it removes any signs of it, but it is best to carry out a test piece before. The applique was carried out as above on the cushion. Download PDF here To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Bernadette Wainright A very smart but fun waistcoat for any young man to enjoy the festive season. For a quick make I have omitted the pockets/welts and back tie. McCall’s M4290 Peter Rabbit Christmas Waistcoat Age 4 View B Skill level: Intermediate You will need: ½Mtr Peter Rabbit Fabric ½Mtr Lining Fabric McCall’s M4290 Bosal Charcoal Medium Fusible Interfacing 3 x 5/8” Buttons Sewing Machine and Basic Sewing Kit Step-by-step instructions: All seams are 5/8” or 1.5cms unless otherwise stated. Before you start your project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through all the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. Iron your fabric with a suitable temperature to ensure it is flat and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make. 1. Follow the cutting guide as per the pattern. I wanted to position Peter and his mum in prominent places so I folded the fabric right side out and also positioned for horizontal pattern matching. 2. I use either a fabric pen or pencil to mark the cutting lines from the pattern so as not to damage the pattern tissue. Repeat for the lining. 3. Cut the Front (1) in the interfacing. 4. Transfer all markings, the position of the darts, buttonholes and buttons before removing the pattern tissue with either tailor’s tacks or the method of your choice. My tailor’s tacks are very long as I’m working through the main fabric and the lining, therefore 4 layers. 5. Apply the interfacing following the manufactures’ instructions to the wrong side of the front piece (1). 6. Complete the darts in step 2, press these towards the centre. I omitted the welts and back tie as I wanted a simple, quick waistcoat. 7. Stitch the back to the front at the shoulder seams, press the seams open. There is no need to neaten as the seam will be enclosed. Repeat for the lining. 8. With right sides together pin the lining to the vest, matching notches, centres and shoulder seams. 9. Stitch as per the instructions in step 4. 10. Layer the seam allowance and clip in notches on all curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching. This may be a little fiddly, but it means the waistcoat will turn through easily and result in a good curve. 11. Turn through to the right side as per the instructions. 12. Edge tack to achieve a sharp edge, press. 13. Sew the side seams as per the instructions. Press the seam open. 14. Turn under 5/8” on side opening edges of lining and slipstitch closed. 15. Complete the buttons and buttonholes as in step 5. Congratulations! Your Peter Rabbit Christmas waistcoat is now finished. To see more from Bernadette, visit her on Instagram @littlemissdressco Made by Bernadette Wainwright for the Craft Cotton Company 2020

Project by Nicola Hills *I did not design this Quilt pattern * This project would be more suited to an intermediate sewer. I found the block assembly quite mind boggling to place. You will need: Debbie Shore’s A Winters Tail Fat Quarter set 1/2 Metre of contrasting fabric for the envelope backing Wadding Tools Required: Iron Ruler Sewing Machine Basic Sewing Kit How to: Use the template and photograph to do the block colour placement. Choose 3 of the 5 fabrics and cut required squares from each five and a quarter inch. I found this chart on Pinterest and find it quite helpful in creating the correct squares. When you have made the squares, press the seams flat then lay them out in the correct formation, begin to sew the first row of four together, using a 1/4” seam. Repeat for the next three rows. Now pin number 1 & 2 rows at each seam to get a neat join, repeat ie: 3 to 2, 4 to 3. Iron the completed front piece and lay on top of the wadding (remember to cut the wadding approx 2” larger) pin or clip to secure. At this point you can quilt if you wish. Take another of the fabrics and cut 4 x 2.5” strips across lengthways, press in half. This is the strip which ‘Frames’ the block. Match the raw edges, top and bottom of the block with the strips, pin then sew along. Open up the seams and press. Trim off excess. Repeat for the sides. Add the strips r/s facing just as before to the edge of the frame and block. Press seams flat, turn over and press the whole cushion panel. I then did and envelope style back. Cut 2 pieces from the backing fabric, 1 will go r/s to r/s of the cushion front. The other will also go r/s together but will also overlap the first piece. Pin or clip. Now sew all around the edge with a 1/4” seam, snip each corner unto but not through the stitching to reduce bulk. Turn right side out and push corners out gently. Iron. Add your cushion inner and enjoy your handmade project, or why not give it as a gift? I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, if you decide to have a go please share your makes @bobbincottagebodkin @craftcottonco Nicola Hills x Made by Nicola Hills for The Craft Cotton Company 2020