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Project by WhatKimberleyMakes Finished size: Approx. 26 x 40cm Use a 6mm seam allowance What you’ll need: 56cm x 50cm main fabric 66cm x 50cm plain lining fabric 56cm x 15cm contrast fabric 56cm x 50cm wadding A3 Paper, ruler and pen to make a template Basting Spray (505) Erasable pen and ruler (for quilting) Cut: I piece of main fabric measuring 56 x 31cm 2 strips of main fabric each measuring 56 x 4cm 1 strip of contrast (red) fabric measuring 56 x 4cm One strip of plain lining measuring 56 x 4cm For the hanging hoop, cut 1 piece of red fabric measuring 10cm x 24cm Method 1. To make your stocking template, draw a box measuring 18cm x 31cm along the right-hand side of your paper. Hand-draw a curved ‘sock’ shape from the bottom of the box to the right side of the paper. Cut out the shape. 2. Sew the plain lining strip to the top of the main fabric, followed by a main fabric strip, then a red, then a main fabric, all right sides together. 3. Use your template to cut out two mirror-imaged shapes from the fabric. 4. Cut your lining pieces from the same template this time make them 4cm longer. 5. Quilt diagonal lines across the main part of the stocking 5cm apart (Cross-hatching.) You may want to mark the lines first with an erasable pen. 6. Cut two strips of wadding each measuring the width of your stocking x 2.5cm. Adhere to the top of each lining piece, 6mm from the top. Make sure the lining pieces are mirror imaged. 7. Fold the long sides of the hanging loop to the centre, then in half again and edge stitch along each side. Fold in half and sew, facing downwards to the side of the back seam, towards the back of the stocking. Sew the top of each outer stocking piece to the top of a lining. 8. Sew the two panels right sides together, matching the outer and lining sides. Leave a turning gap in the lining of about 10cm. Snip into the curved seams. 9. Turn the right side out and sew the opening closed. 10. Push the lining inside the stocking. As you’ve cut the lining longer, this will create a border around the top. 11. To make the bow, cut a 19 x 18cm piece of red fabric. Fold in half lengthways right sides together and sew, leaving a turning gap in one side of about 4cm. Snip across the corners, turn the right side out and press. 12. For the tails, cut a strip of red fabric measuring 40 x 20cm, fold in half lengthways and trim across the ends at an angle. 13. Sew, leaving a turning gap of about 3mm in the centre. Turn the right side out and press. 14. Cut a length of red fabric measuring 11cm x 12cm. Sew the two long sides right sides together to form a tube. Turn the right side out and press with the seam at the back. 15. Wrap this piece around the centre of the previous rectangle to form a bow, hand sew at the back. 16. Thread the tails through the back of the loop and hand sew in place. 17. Sew the to red band at the top of the stocking. To see more from Kim, visit her on Instagram @whatkimberleymakes www.whatkimberleymakes.com Made by Kimberley Hind for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Marie Pickles A hat is wonderful when the sun is shining the wind is blowing or you just want to hide away for a little while. There are loads of free printable patterns available on the internet so have a look, find something you like and get sewing! Looking at patterns online, as usual I liked a bit of one and something from another and an idea from something else. I downloaded several patterns, read some tutorials and had a look at a You Tube video. Seeing nothing that really stood out, I made my hat taking bits and pieces from each and came up with my own mix & match bucket hat. You choose what works best for you or you could freehand a pattern from an existing hat; just remember to leave a seam allowance. I used Hellosewing.com and MerchantandMills.com for my pattern outlines. Supplies Needed 14” width of fabric (140cm) my fabrics are quilting weight fabrics giving a good tight grain which works well with the pattern. 2 pieces of fabric (same size) are required for outer and inner sides of the hat. Fabrics can be pattern and plain or a mix just whatever you fancy. You could use a lighter weight inside if you want to. Some lightweight iron-on interfacing (for the brim and sides) Matching thread Iron Scissors (fabric, paper and craft) Quilting clips or pins Your pattern pieces Tape Measure & Quilt Ruler Method 1) Cut pattern pieces. Press and attach interfacing if using but cut interfacing 1/4” smaller. 2) Sew pattern together per the instructions pressing each seam as finished and topstitching if required. 3) The order for putting this hat together was: the crown and the brim were sewn then pressed and the seams topstitched, then crown to top, and brim to crown. The inside was completed in the same order and finally the 2 parts were sewn together. 4) It was finished by sewing circles around the brim to add stability. 5) The main thing I found was the need to press and press and then press again. Match up seams and use clips rather than pins, the pins left holes in my opinion anyway. It's not a difficult pattern but I did need to concentrate especially with all the topstitching. If you make one; enjoy! Made by Marie Pickles for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Sarah Holliman A fun weekend project to create these hoop designs, perfect for celebrating any occasion. These hoop designs were made to celebrate the Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashanah. You will need One fat quarter pack of fabric Embroidery hoop to fit your design (I used an 8” and 10” hoop) Bondaweb Selection of embroidery threads/embellishments Scissors/Rotary Cutter and Mat/ Pins/Thread/Needles Method 1. Make a template for your design – you could download a template or design one for yourself. Transfer your design onto a sheet of A4 paper ensuring it will fit inside your hoop. 2. Trace your design onto bondaweb. If you are using any text on your design you will need to reverse image the wording. 3. Roughly cut around your pieces 4. Choose your background fabric and lay the pieces out to make your design. Make sure your complete design will fit inside the hoop borders. 5. Select different colours of fabric for your cut out pieces. 6. Iron the bondaweb to the wrong side of your fabric and cut out your design. 7. Lay out all the cut out pieces onto your background fabric. When you are happy with your design, peel off the bondaweb backing and iron into place. 8. You can now embellish or embroider into your design as you wish. 9. When your design is complete, gently pull the fabric to ensure it is tight in the hoop frame and secure. There are many different methods of tidying the back of the frame but I have used a simple gathering stitch. 10. Add a hanging loop or ribbon and enjoy. To see more from Sarah, visit her site sjstitchery.com and Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Lesley Foster at HookStitchSew Add some extra magic to a gift or project bag with this Harry Potter fabric drawstring bag. Materials Harry Potter fat quarters set by The Craft Cotton Company Scissors Pins Ruler Felt - Gold/yellow - White/silver Pencil Paper Needle Thread Ribbon - 70cm long, or two pieces 35cm long Method 1- Using the two black fat quarters cut out two pieces of fabric 35x45cm. This gives you a front and a back bag piece. 2- Using the squared pattern fat quarter cut out two pieces 35x10cm. This gives you a drawstring section for the front and back. 3- On the piece of paper draw out a circle with a 5cm diameter, and draw out two wing shapes 10cm long. Cut out to make your templates. 4- Use the yellow/gold felt and the circle template to cut out a ball, and the white/silver felt and the wing template to cut out the wings. 5- Sew the ball and wings onto the bottom left corner of the front bag piece using a running stitch. 6- Take the front bag piece and fold over the top edge to the back by 1cm and then 1cm again to create a hem. Sew along this edge to secure. Repeat with the back piece. 7- Place the front and back pieces right sides together and sew down each side and along the bottom. 8- Take one of the drawstring section pieces and fold over the top edge to the back by 2.5cm and repeat with the bottom edge. Place on top of the front of the bag and fold in the side edges to align with the edges of the bag. Pin to secure. Sew along the top and bottom to secure. Repeat with the other piece on the back of the bag. 9- Thread the ribbon through the drawstring section. To see more from Lesley, visit her on Instagram @hookstitchsew Made by Lesley Foster for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

We were lucky enough to be introduced to the amazing people at Hideout Youth Zone via our friends at Hobbycraft. "HideOut Youth Zone is a safe and inspiring place for thousands of young people aged 8 – 19, and up to 25 for those with additional needs, to enjoy their leisure time." The opportunities for young people at HideOut are endless. They can spend their time learning to cook, playing sports, rock climbing, dance, music and tons more. We spent the morning putting on a creative and crafty card making workshop and loved every minute. Here are some photos from our morning fun: If you'd like to learn more about HideOut Youth Zone, visit their site hideoutyouthzone.org

Project by Michelle Roberts at CreativeBlonde Get World Cup 2022 ready! Follow this tutorial, to make your own football pennant flag and bunting, using the gorgeous football fabrics from Craft Cotton Co, a great project to make with the kids this summer. Please read through all the instructions before starting your project Approx. Finished size of flag 9” x 10.5” (not including the hanging twine) Finished bunting length 49” x 7” (not including hanging ribbon) seam allowance ¼”, RST – Right Sides Together FMQ – Free Motion Quilting Materials Half meter of football fabric FQ black fabric 12” length of dowelling ¾” thick 100” red ribbon for hanging Two ½” eyelets FQ Vlieseline Bondaweb Haberdashery items · Quilter’s ruler, · Rotary cutter/scissors · Iron · Cutting mat · Basic sewing supplies · Pinking blade · Bunting template Method - Making the flag… Print your chosen wording from Microsoft Word Trace the reverse of the writing onto the paper side of the Vlieseline Bondaweb, a light box can help with this process. Fuse to the wrong side of the black fabric. Carefully cut out and remove backing paper. Cut two flags from the football fabric, measuring 9” x 11”, trim bottom edge to create point. Fuse lettering to front of one flag. FMQ to secure lettering in place. Lay the two flags wrong sides together and sew ¼” around all sides. Trim edges with pinking blade. Add eyelets in each top corner, and hang onto doweling, accessorize with ribbons etc Method - Making the Bunting Print off the bunting template, cut out and use to cut 14 bunting flags. Lay two flags wrong sides together and sew ¼” along all three edges, use pinking blade to trim edges. Print your letters from Microsoft word. Trace the reverse of the letters onto the paper side of the Vlieseline Bondaweb, a light box can help with this process. Fuse to the wrong side of the black fabric. Carefully cut out and remove backing paper. Fuse one letter to each flag, FMQ to secure letters in place. Join each flag in order to the red ribbon, using a large zig-zag stitch. Support your team this World Cup 2022! To see more of my tutorials, you can follow my blog www.creativeblonde.co.uk and/or Instagram page www.instagram.co.uk/michelle_creativeblonde and www.facebook.com/creativeblonde66 Stockist for Fabric www.visagetextiles.com https://www.facebook.com/craftcottonco Stockist for Aurifil www.aurifil.com/ www.facebook.com/aurifil.quilt.thread Made by Michelle Roberts for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Blankets, quilts and baby blankets are all needed for refugees arriving in Manchester from Afghanistan. We will be able to drop these off if you can send them to our office. Please spread the word! Contact info: talia.phillips@visagetextiles.com Address: F.A.O Talia, 9-11 Chatley Street, Cheetham Hill, Manchester M3 1HU

Project by Sarah Holliman at Sjstitchery Straw Bonnet Band You will need: Straw Hat Fabric for band – I used 2 contrasting strips of fabric Scissors/thread/needle Method 1. Using your rotary cutter, cut 2 strips of fabric measuring 3 inches wide – measure the circumference of your hat and make sure the length of the fabric is long enough to tie as you wish 2. With right sides together, stitch around all sides of the ribbon tie, leaving a gap for turning. 3. Turn outside and press with an iron – accessorise your hat. Designer Inspired Upcycled Bag For this project, I have used a straw basket which I have re-worked for a different look. This look was inspired by some Designer baskets I have seen. It is easily adaptable and the fabric can be easily changed from Season to Season. You will need: Straw Basket Half a metre of fabric Two metal D-Rings Webbing for new handles (if required) Scissors/Pins/Needles/Thread Method 1. Take your straw basket and decide which parts of the bag you would like to re-work. I have chosen to remove some of the decoration, the handles and the inside of my basket. Un-stitch the parts you decide, taking care to make sure you mark the position of the handles if you remove these. 2. When you have removed all the excess parts from the basket, take your half metre of fabric. Hem the fabric around all four sides and press with an iron. 3. To make the pleated wrap design, spend some time wrapping the fabric around your basket. The fabric will go all around the basket. 4. Slip a D-Ring onto each side of the fabric – this will allow you to form the pleated effect on the front and back of the basket. 5. Pin the fabric into place on the basket, working the pleated design as you go. When you are happy with your design, tack the fabric into place using small stitches that you are able to hide under the pleats. 6. On the sides, I used a small amount of gathering stitch to pull the fabric into the basket shape – stitch to hold into place. 7. For the new handles, I used two strips of hessian to my desired length and machine stitched these in place. TA-DA – ONE UPCYCLED BASKET ! To see more from Sarah, visit her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by The Crafty Lass These beautiful fabrics were sent to me by the truly wonderful Craft Cotton Co and they 'spoke' to me as a bag. I mean just look at those colours and patterns! They are so easy to sew with - a wide weave, soft finish, even metallic threads - just lovely! This pattern is a really simple make that creates a fully lines, large bag to chuck over your shoulder - your shopping, your latest projects, your stuff to hide away (just me?) Basically whatever you need, and it's fully reversible! You Will Need Fabric Coordinating Thread Tools: Fabric scissors Pins Needle Measuring tape Iron and ironing board Method 1. Select, measure and cut out your fabrics. You will need the below measurements: Outer Bag - 2 x pieces 62cm x 49cm Lining - 2 x pieces 62cm x 49cm Straps – 2 x pieces 86cm x 16cm 2. Place your outer fabric right sides together. With the 62cm edge being the ‘top’ - using a 1cm seam allowance, sew from the top down one edge, pivot and sew along the bottom. Pivot, and sew up the other side. 3. We are now going to create a ‘box press seam’ - this creates a larger bottom to the bag rather it just being straight up and down. At the bottom of your bag fold out the seams in each corner so that your side seam and bottom seam are lined up together. Measure 6cm in and mark before sewing a straight line to form a ‘triangular shape’. Cut off any additional fabric and then turn your bag out the right way before pressing. This sounds more complicated than it is, but hopefully the pictures show what I mean! 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 with your lining fabric. 5. Turn your outer bag fabric out the right way. 6. To make a strap, fold the fabric in half width ways so you have a long thin piece of fabric. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew all the way along the edge before turning out the right way. It might be useful to use something like a knitting needle, pencil or equivalent to push it through – press if required. Repeat with the other bag strap. 7. Now it is time to construct the bag together! Place your inner bag inside your outer. Fold over the inner and outer edges and put your strap ends between the two at equidistant points, on either side – there is no right or wrong where you want them to be as long as they are centralised/the same on each side. Pin everything into position. 8. Using a 0.5cm seam allowance, sew all the way around the edge and secure your threads. Et voila! A Throw It All In Bag… Enjoy! The Crafty Lass® www.thecraftylass.com @thecraftylass Made by Paula Milner for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Sarah Holliman at SJStichery Jazz up a pair of flip flops with some beautiful fabric flowers. You will need: One pair of flip flops A fat quarter pack Buttons for flower centres Scissors/Rotary Cutter and Mat/ Pins/Thread/Needles Method - Button Flower Flip Flop The method is the same for both of the flip flop projects but the flowers differ slightly. 1. For each flower (I used 6 on each flip flop), Cut six 4cm circles from your fabric piece. 2. Fold each circle piece into a quarter shape and run a gathering stitch along the curved edge of the piece. 3. Repeat this process for all 6 petal pieces, keeping them all on one string, ready for gathering. 4. Gather all 6 of the petals together, pull thread tightly and secure into a ring to form the flower shape. 5. If you are using a thicker cotton fabric, you may find there will be a hole in the centre of your flower. Run a gathering thread around the centre of the hole and pull flower into place. The gap can be covered with a large button. 6. Arrange and secure your flower shapes to your flip flop. You could sew these into place or use a hot glue gun as preferred. Method - Rounded Flower Flip Flop 1. To make the Rounded Flower Flip Flop, cut 7 circles of 5cm in size. 2. Fold the circle into a semi-circle and use a running stitch along the curved edge of the half. String 6 semi-circles onto your thread and pull the thread to gather the shape, exactly the same as the method for the pointed flower above. 3. Use the seventh circle piece to make the centre of the flower. Run small running stitches around the outside of the circle and gather to form a button shape. 4. Stitch the button circle into the centre of the flower. 5. Arrange and secure your flower shapes onto your flip flop as preferred. To see more from Sarah, visit her on Instagram @sjstitchery Made by Sarah Holliman for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Stephanie Marsh Make a lovely hedgehog theme cushion with this fun fabric and some hexies. You will need: 19” square hedgehog fabric 1m pink/white polka dot fabric Small about of brown fabric 2 small brown/black buttons piping cord 18” co-ordinating colour zip Bondaweb Co-ordinating Thread Paper 20” Cushion Pad Finished measurement for cushion cover is 18” square. ½ inch seam allowance used unless stated. Instructions: 1. Cut out 1 x 19” square in the hedgehog fabric and 2 rectangles 19” x 10” in the polka dot fabric. Put to one side. 2. Cut out strips 1.25” wide x enough to go around the whole of the cushion, plus a little extra, on the bias. I find this easier using a quilting rules and rotary cutter. Join if necessary – see picture below, press any seams open. 3. Fold Strip in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Place piping cord in between the fabric, as near the fold as possible. Using a zipper foot stitch as close to the cord as possible. Put to one side. 4. Cut 10 1 ¾” hexagonal in paper. Pin to the polka dot fabric, leaving a good border around them. 5. Cut them out, leaving a ¼” border around them. 6. Fold the fabric edges over the paper, to the wrong side and tack in place. 7. Layout in a row of 3, then a row of 4 then a row of 3. Using an overstitch sew them together in the shape of the hedgehogs body, use the picture for layout. 8. Press well. Place on bondaweb and draw around the shape. 9. Take the tacking out and remove the paper (you can keep these to re-use at a later date), be careful to keep the raw edges turned under. 10. Iron the bondaweb onto the wrong side of the hedgehog’s body. Put to one side. 11. On the bondaweb free draw the hedgehogs body and legs (remember that you are drawing the opposite way to how they will appear on the front of the cover). Cut them out roughly and iron onto the wrong side of the brown fabric. Cut out neatly. 12. Score the backing paper on the bondaweb that has been ironed onto the body, legs and head of the hedgehog. Position on the main hedgehog fabric, steam iron in place. 13. Using one of the embroidery stitches or a close zig-zag stitch sew all around the hedgehog, including where the body is over the legs and head. I used a blanket stitch. Stitch a button for it eye and nose. 14. Take the piping cord and stitch in place all around the edge of the hedgehog fabric, lining up the raw edged. Where the cord starts and finishes overlap slightly and stitch slightly off the edge. Curve the corners alight, snip the binding if necessary. Put to one side. 15. Take the 2 rectangle and press under ½” on one of the long edges on each piece. Please the zip along each of these edges. Using a zipper foot stitch in place close the zipper teeth. 16. Take this and the hedgehog front and place right sides together. Match corners, pin and stitch around all 4 sides. Remember to have the zip open a bit. 17. Turn right sides out and press well. Fill with cushion pad. Inspired by Donna the Hedgehog To see more from Stephanie, visit her on Instagram @stephanie_j_marsh Made by Stephanie Marsh for The Craft Cotton Company 2021

Project by Anna at Lets Get Sewing I've always enjoyed the in-depth sewing process of making a pair of jeans. Not only are they enjoyable to make as the sewing involves more thought than a simple top, being able to wear a pair of handmade jeans is an amazing feeling. As my sewing skills and confidence has increased I've started to hack sewing patterns into different styles but I've previously steered away from hacking jeans patterns. The fitting is more complicated on jeans, and I worried that I wouldn't get the proportions right. However, now that I've made quite a few pairs of jeans and feel confident with the fit around the waist, I've started to think about hacking jeans patterns. The Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans is a great pattern for non-stretch jeans. I especially like how high-waisted they are, making them comfortable to wear. Having made two pairs previously I've managed to alter the back pieces to get the pattern to fit me perfectly at the waist, so it seemed like a good pattern to use as a base for future jeans hacks. With three different views, the pattern also has a variety of different leg-widths which provide a great starting point. Quite a few different styles of jeans have emerged recently and I always like to use RTW clothes as sewing inspiration. One style that I kept going back to was balloon jeans, which have a fitted waist and ankle but go out in a balloon-shape before coming back in. I looked at quite a few photos online and the main technique seemed to be having darts around the base of the leg to bring the fabric in whilst keeping volume around the knee. In order to make these jeans I cut my fabric pieces out as view C of the Dawn Jeans which are wide-legged. I constructed the jeans as usual until it came to sewing the legs together, at which point I basted both the inner leg seam and the side seams in place. Then came a lot of pinning! I tried the jeans on and basically pinned the shape I wanted in place. The wide-legged jeans were quite a bit wider than what I wanted for the balloon jeans so I took quite a bit of fabric out from both the inner leg and side seams, especially around the thigh/knee area. In order to make these jeans I cut my fabric pieces out as view C of the Dawn Jeans which are wide-legged. I constructed the jeans as usual until it came to sewing the legs together, at which point I basted both the inner leg seam and the side seams in place. Then came a lot of pinning! I tried the jeans on and basically pinned the shape I wanted in place. The wide-legged jeans were quite a bit wider than what I wanted for the balloon jeans so I took quite a bit of fabric out from both the inner leg and side seams, especially around the thigh/knee area. Once the darts were in place I basted the seams for a second time, following the shape that the pins made. This took quite a while to get right and I ended up taking more fabric out than I was expecting as I found that I didn't like the really baggy look that the jeans had. The great thing about making these myself is that I was able to create a pair of balloon jeans which go out in the right shape but weren't too baggy, I think I might have found a RTW pair a bit loose and harder to wear. I'm very pleased with the shape that I created, like I said they don't go out too much so aren't overly baggy but the balloon shape is there and is especially visible from the side. Because the legs are quite loose it was important to me to make sure that the waistband fit really well. It means that the jeans can be worn with a more fitted top to balance out the looser legs and I think having a pair of jeans that fits well on the waist makes them seem a bit smarter, not to mention that they're much nicer to wear if they fit. It's taken me so long to get the fit of jeans right but I've finally got there with the Dawn Jeans. The main adjustment I made to the pattern was to remove a wedge from the centre back seam and also take the side seams in by 2cm either side at the top. I'd really recommend making a jeans pattern without hacking it several times to get the fit right and to then transfer those markings to the pattern. Having the pattern already altered to fit me makes the sewing process so much more enjoyable as I don't have to think about adjusting the fit every time I make a pair of jeans, I can then focus on hacks to the leg shape instead. As well as having darts to shape the legs, the main thing I noticed when looking at RTW balloon jeans was that they featured pleats at the waist. I did consider leaving off the pleats as I was worried about over-hacking, but they link to the more relaxed style so seemed like a necessary addition. Fortunately the denim I used was the perfect weight. I'm not sure the pleats would have worked in a thicker fabric, I didn't want them to stick out stiffly. In the end adding the pleats was a fairly simple pattern adjustment. When cutting out the front trouser piece I marked on the pattern where I wanted the pleat to go (ideally about 1/2" away from the pocket) and then moved my pattern piece to add in an extra 2" of fabric which would then be folded to create the pleat. The proper way of doing this would be to alter the pattern but my lazy method worked fine too! Initially, I folded and basted the pleats in place and just left them as they were. However, when I tried the trousers on the pleats seemed to get a bit lost among the other features and didn't really stand out enough. To get past this I sewed together the pleat, adding about 1" of stitching down from the waistband. It's hard to explain but this post gives you an idea of what I did, you can see from the photo that it makes the pleat stay in place at the top. I really enjoyed adding topstitching to these jeans. I used a matching colour thread (I didn't want a contrast colour to take away from the leg shape which is the main feature) but I think that the texture of a heavyweight thread adds a lot of interest, especially around the waistband and on the back pockets. Possibly my favourite feature was my decision to add topstitching to the darts on the leg. I wasn't planning to do this but kept thinking that it could look really cool, so I decided to go for it and I love how it looks. It makes the darts seem purposeful and ties the legs to the waist. It helps that the inseam has a double row of topstitching which I then repeated for the hem, again drawing it all together. When it came to hemming the jeans it took me quite a while to decide what length I wanted them. I turned them up by a couple of inches to start with and really liked the slightly cropped length. However, I've noticed that the length of jeans seems to be increasing so I wanted them to be slightly longer. When I compared the two lengths I actually really liked both of them, in the end I went for the longer length but either would have been nice. Like all handmade jeans these were only complete once I added rivets. They're surprisingly easy to add but I think they go a long way in making these look shop bought rather than handmade. I chose to go for silver rivets with this colour denim although it probably would have looked nice with bronze ones too. Another lovely detail of handmade jeans is being able to add pocket bag lining fabric. This is always something that I like to do in a fun contrast fabric, it isn't visible from the outside but always makes me smile when I put the jeans on. I chose to use this floral cotton print from Craft Cotton Co, I think it pairs perfectly with the navy denim. I'm honestly slightly surprised by how well these turned out! I had a very clear picture of what I wanted these jeans to look like in my head but it's often really hard to transfer that onto an actual garment, especially without a ready-made pattern. The time it took to baste the side seams of these jeans really paid off as the width is just right. I also love how the darts are used to bring the fabric back in at the bottom, it's a clever design feature that I like the look of too. I'm definitely going to be hacking the Dawn Jeans again, once the fit has been perfected the possibilities are endless! To see more from Anna, visit her on Instagram @letsgetsewing1 By Anna at Lets Get Sewing for The Craft Cotton Company 2021